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didn't know the name "scarf joints", thanks. Brands I know that use it for mast to fuse connection: f-one, duotone, mikeslab, afs, omen and I'm sure there's more. hopefully it'll be an industry standard one day. cheers

imo any tail can work with any front foil. if you like the combo or not, it's a matter of personal preference. I think you might not like the monobloc 200 mostly because it's smaller (henace less lift) than the c250 you're used to, and not necessarily because it's a monobloc one. But from your point of view, all that matters is that you don't like it. I personally don't even look at the recommended combo's on the f-one website... cheers

I use the SS1400 - first with the 250carve but now always with the 200c. The 200stab gives a much better experience with the Ss1400. Better glide, better turns and no real difference in getting up. I no longer use the 250 stab

yep, use my videos for inspiration to try new stuff, but don't forget that the personal preference (and skill, weight, conditions, etc) are massive factors. cheers

I love both the XXXS160 for smaller waves and the XS140 for bigger waves. The 140 is the one that I say it begs me to push hard.

​@@gcammar So... 141w has thicker profile than 140, and it is why 141w slower and draggier than 140, I got it correctly? Very strange that official site describes it opposite :)

@@coderts yes

@@gcammar let's try to understand the idea :) increased span of 140 is better for pumping, which is good for surf foil, but worse for carving. Increased thickness of 141 is better for lightwind start and stall speed, but worse for glide and high speed. So... Maybe 141 just has more freeride and beginner friendly focus (not a secret that mass market need it most) :)

@@coderts sure, I agree with everything you wrote. But publicizing the 141W as "for wingers who are looking for higher speeds" is extremely misleading. Since it came out together with the 140, I assumed it was higher speed compared to that and it's not. Cheers

an old gopro 5 session

no plans on filming a wing dw with the 900. I did one run and I was less impressed by it, because you don't really need that much low end with the wing. I usually use an eagle 690 for wing dw's, so the 900 wasn't particularly exciting for me. cheers

I had the 145 for a week and did some runs and never got to like it. I just hope that f-one will come up with smaller dw tails on a xxxs fuse. if I go to the awsi also this year, I'll bug the Salles for it... it is a shame that I'm coupling such good front dw foils with my lowered aspect chopped dw190's, but I still like them better than the 145 because of the fuse lenght. cheers.

What didn’t you like on the 145 JP?

@@michaelc5378 I like the short fuses much better

hopefully these stab options will come with the X 600 release and add a XS 125 and XS 100 to that list for me, if you get hold of the Salles 🙌🏽

all the gear (including tails) is always is the video description. I don't do custom recommendations to people I don't know the skill of, the conditions they have, what kind of board they have, what weight they are, etc. And even if I knew all that, I still wouldn't recommend anything. In these videos I express what I think about a foil, then each one has to make their own decisions, as it's so incredibly personal. Sorry and cheers.

no, sorry

I don't have a dw170, but any tail from any brand can do that. When it happens, I sand the trailing edge of the curved side at a 30 degrees angle and usually that takes care of the noise. The sharper the trailing edge, the better (although it becomes like a razor's blade). Cheers.

If you use it on a SUP board, get the gen 1 and place the battery right in between your feet. Waaay better than the heavier/less balanced gen 2. If you use it on a prone board where you can't have the battery box between your feet, imo gen2 waaay better than gen1. cheers PS. That's my opinion, but I do have to add that I never actually tried a gen2. I just don't like the design and weight and a few other details....

Interested as well.

I get that question a lot and if you own a foil drive you know that the answer depends a lot on the foil I use, conditions, skill and weight of the rider. I typically use a medium battery (equivalent to two small ones) and have something between 70 and 80% left. In a dry run 20% of the battery goes for the taxing part (to the bumps at the start and inside the harbor at the end) . On a really bad run where I use the foil drive to restart anywhere between 5 to 15 times, that could use up to extra 10%. My board is not particularly good at planing on the surface, with a more efficient board I could do both taxi rides with only 10% of the battery. My foils are also pretty small, so that's more work for the system. Most times, I couldn't even take off without the strong help of the padlle. The reason why I prefer the medium to the small is because I try a hell lot of foils of different brands, and I'd rather be safe than sorry. I know I can make a run with any foil with the medium. So it became my reference weight and I'm totally used to it. The small is also overall weaker and it doesn't taxi as well as the medium. Cheers.

buoy read 5ft 7s and the big bumps were head high and perfect speed for my setup.. cheers

I actually have a video about that, but it was shot so long ago and now I don't use that stuff anymore: ruclips.net/video/teS16WVX0XE/видео.html For example, if you just wrap these: www.amazon.com/dp/B08X6C5QJ4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details it should make stiffer already. wrap two layers if you want stiffer or add some kind of padding and wrap around it. cheers

Hi, for FD downwinders I like the 75 much better as it's easier to fly high close to the water. If it's really big and strong wind, I might use the 80, but never the 85. I use the 85 for winging (donwinders and waves), as flying high is not as critical.

all the info in the video's description. 150 pounds

@@gcammar ah my mistake, thank you: 🙏

Hi Richard, yesterday I did a run with my 890 after quite a while (because in the meantime I rode the smaller 690 and/or the X700) and loved it. Such a fun foil.

if you mean how I attach the remote to the paddle, it's just the Foil Drive paddle mount

Thank you

two runs, two spliffs!

most likely the 35cm span chopped dw190. I'll wait for a nuking day for that, might be a while

@@gcammar you never try new dw 145 xs?

@@paulh.327 yes, but as I say at the beginning of the video, I don't like longer fuses, so I preferred to chop the two dw190's instead. don't like the pumping of longer fuses, specially when I get stuck in a hole and I'm low and slow

I needed a backup in case something breaks on one... so, yes totally addicted to the fun

@@scottseale I can't. never rode the 800.

not sped up

new board not so good when touching the water (like in the take off or the taxing), but it's great when flying for pumping and maneuvrability, as it's smaller than the older one. FYI: I ended up buying the EagleX700. When it's blowing 30+, I still prefer the Eagle 690, but when it's less than that, I prefer the x700 as it's less work. It glides and pumps better than the 690. Cheers

Thanks for getting back Gp, I’m on the new seven seas 1100, which glides better than the sk8 I had but I think it’s eagle time 🤩🤙

board is small but still 90L volume. I can stand and paddle if I get it moving with the cruise control. All the specs (including weight) in the description of the video

oh, I can go faster and with smaller foils when winging, but SUP foiling you go more straight downwind and use the bumps better as there's no wing in the way. cheers

​@@gcammary'all see the manta ray at the one minute mark? Moving from left to right,

@@brianm7842 got bad news for you. unfortunately the old 75 is only 40% hm (check it, it's written on it). that means that the new one is way better. the improvement in control is very noticeable. cheers

What about the old HM 16? Did you ever try that? Thanks for your great work and content! Highly appreciated!

@@mp.345 I don't think there was an old 16mm

@@gcammar thanks, realized now that I've got exactly the same you mention in your video; so perfectly covered.

I had a pre-release EagleX 700 a couple of months ago for a couple of weeks, but unfortunately downwind conditions were poor and I couldn't give it a proper test. Meanwhile, I started doing donwinders on my Eagle 690, so now I really don't see the point to get an a/r 12 foil with a span of 91.5cm when I can use a same size foil with a/r 9.7 and 82cm span. Yes, I would pump less and glide more, but I would also turn less and it would be overall less exciting/engaging. So, I think I'm good. Unless they finally come out with an EagleX 600, like I asked Raphael to do a year ago... but nothing yet. What they really need now is higher a/r thinner monobloc tails. PS. When it's really light, I still enjoy using my Eagle 890. Cheers.

no, my only way would be to sit on the box (which I used to do, but ruined the seal of the lid, so not a good idea). I lay with my chest in front of the box, activate the cruise control, pull myself up on my knees and then stand in surfer stance and paddle. At that point, I can 100% throttle and paddle and I manage to get the board planing. That's how I taxi to the bumps (and to the boat ramp at the end in the harbor). I do sit on the board when I SUP foil at Kaa, though. But in that case, I mount the box is a slightly more backward position, so there's room for me to sit. All this is explained in the boards section of this video: ruclips.net/video/pWp92_7AHPU/видео.html

4ft 8s of easterly windswell made for some shoulder high very fast bumps. new board (bought it used for cheap as it has a big delam bubble under the nose) is great, even though a bit harder to stand on, even with the cruise control. 4.6x23.5x6.1x90L, it's thick as hell, but the smaller outline makes it easier to pump and maneuver compared to the previous 4.10x25x85L which I will continue using for SUP foiling on waves, as it's a lot easier to stand on, specially in parallel stance, waiting for the waves. On this "new" one, I can only stand in surfer stance, but that's ok on a downwinder. cheers.

Good question: Let's say I just fell. From the right side (if you're regular, everything will be inverted on the other side), I get my chest over the board to the front of the box. At that point, both my arms will be on the left side of the board. I hold the paddle handle with my right hand and I activate 39% of cruise control. As soon as the board starts moving, I pull my self up on my knees by putting both hands on the board (right fist still holding the paddle, which is now dragging in the water on the left of the board). Front knee to the front of the box, back knee to the back of it. At that point, thanks to the cruise control, the board is stable enough to let me get my front foot in the strap (hands still on the board) and the back foot to the back of the box. As soon as I stand up, I brace myself with the paddle for extra stability and wait for right bump for the takeoff (which implies, 100% throttle and full strength paddling). It's pretty awkward, but only the first 10 times you do it, then you get used to it. Totally worth it though, as the most balanced position for the box is right in between your feet. That's not even an opinion, it's just physics. Don't know where you put your box, but if it's not between your feet, you should try, as it will be much better. Cheers.

@@gcammar great reply thanks. I also saw your vid on the placement. I’m riding a 55L midlength now prone so will likely not work for me. I retro fitted a footstrap screw on rail of prone board but the midlength is a lot narrower and I’m reticent to put a hole in it. I too ride the small battery and the difference is massive in terms of weight. I think I’ll try it off the front foot strap on this new board or could do the rear offset but it’s tight

@@GregThomas-uq5tt yeah, 55L is probably too small for that. FYI, if you're using the plate for the box, you can buy stick-on inserts here www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=159&idcategory=93 and you won't have to drill holes in the board. I actually prefer two of these anchor points, as they stay flush with the deck. www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=338&idcategory=93 Cheers.

Awesome. Those stick on tie downs look better as then the box can go right on the rail I think. Would have to go lengthwise across the box but could go underneath a tie that wraps around the box. This could be a simple enough solution I think