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Hey Jay Z, when I was your age, I collected only incandescent lightbulbs but when I turn 19 years old in 1969 which was in February, I waited till October and I started collecting fluorescent lightbulbs and fluorescent light fixtures and I’ve done all of that since now I don’t know what state you live in, but I live in Dubuque, Iowa and if you saw my collection You would donuts you would love it and I think your parents would do I live in Dubuque Iowa I don’t know where you live but I hope someday your parents can bring you to Dubuque Iowa so you can see my collection is massive but I’m proud of you. I’m glad you are collecting lightbulbs and interested in lighting, I like the best I’m not LED. I may end preheat fluorescent lighting and incandescent lighting and I like the slim line stuff too. Will you take care and have a merry Christmas and I happy new year and keep on collecting and if you need my help. I’ll be glad to help you.

I have a whole bunch of those of different kinds and all made my son beam. I bought them at Walmart back in the earliest 2000s and I still have them all they’re really cool. I hope you get a bunch more. I see you have a lot of preheat in the background good for you.

I have a whole bunch of those of different kinds and all made my son beam. I bought them at Walmart back in the earliest 2000s and I still have them all they’re really cool. I hope you get a bunch more.

Interesting conversion of a halogen fixture. If the fixture originally used a 300W halogen lamp, a 70W S62 high pressure sodium lamp delivers similar lumens while saving a significant amount of energy.

my electric scooter has a led front light and a led rear back light when you push the brake handle it will brighten up

Awesome find, dude. I found a light like this once. It was sat on the side of the road for weeks, long after the construction it was meant to indicate had finished. Mine was solar powered (and had a HUGE heavy nickel cadmium battery).

I wish you well young man. Keep learning and being creative.

A thing about these 9W FML lamps is that they are interchangeable with 13.5” F10T8 fluorescent tubes.

Nice 👍

Cool

That is TOTALLY EPIC!!

Cool

That’s sick. Never knew anything like that existed.

very cool video: I have one too!

Orange is neon, purple is argon, and pink is a neon-argon mixture.

Nice that you have a 4 pin 26W PL-C/PL-T CFL lamp fixture with an electronic ballast. It is also good to know that 26W PL-C lamps have also been available in preheat configurations as well, but they have 2 pins that are located diagonally across from each other and also require special preheat ballasts in order to run properly, which consist of an internal step up transformer if they are designed for a 120V 60Hz supply because their electrical characteristics would not allow them to run on a single coil ballast alone on a 120V 60Hz supply. Those CFL lamps have often been used in recessed can downlight fixtures often in pairs of two lamps and sometimes one lamp before LED lighting came around. Additionally, there were 2 pin versions of the PL-T lamps for preheat ballast around, but they are very hard to find.

I had an HPS nema head that did this before it burned out

I had a HPS nema head that did this exact same thing at EOL, it lit up a blue mercury color without shifting to orange, and then it went out, the bulb eventually died completely. It warmed up before going out, but it emitted a bluish white color like a mercury vapor bulb, never shifted to orange.

I have a cobra head by our house that started cycling like this, shifted to orange, starts blue mercury color, and then goes out.

While seeing the middle F15T12 tube flickering a lot, it seems to be approaching end of life.

good work, Sir!

my neighborhood used to have those but they are now led and they still have the light in the video at my local park

Way to go JZ Lights! That was some intense flickering. We may need you to help on a future haunted house!

This young man is fantastic. Well stinkin done parents. His level of maturity and inventive soul really warms my heart. He really is going to be a success

You are going to do great things

nice job!

Cool !

Very unique table lamp indeed, never heard of a 68 watt metal halide. I'm guessing this particular wattage was made exclusively for this lamp in a marketing attempt to get people to only buy lamps from the manufacturer of this particular table lamp. A 70 watt metal halide is widely available and would be most suitable. The 100 watt metal halide is slightly underdriven. What this means is that because of the nature of a gas discharge lamp being a negative impedance device (unless current limited, the lamp once started, will act as a direct short circuit, potentially drawing thousands of amps for a very short time, blowing the circuit breaker and destroying the lamp) a properly rated ballast is required for all gas discharge lamps to limit the current to which the lamp is rated, so that 100 watt MH will draw the same current as the 68 watt for which it was designed for, and it will fail to fully warm up; depending on how much it's under driven, the lamp may remain a bluish white resembling a clear mercury vapor lamp because there is not enough heat to vaporize all the metals salts in the arc tube which give the lamp it's color temperature, good CRI and high efficiency. On the other hand, overdriving a metal halide eg. 70 watt lamp on 100 watt ballast, will usually result in a lower (warmer) color temp and will cause the arc tube to run at temperatures and pressure greater than what it's designed for and can violently explode. I do need to point out one very important precaution to take when using metal halide lamps in open fixtures, make double sure you're using a type O lamp, not type E; these lamps will have a thick quartz shroud around the arc tube to prevent fragments from breaking the lamp's outer jacket, blasting red hot quartz though the area, a number of serious fires in warehouses and the like, can trace it's origin to a ruptured high bay metal halide. In fact, open metal halide fixtures made after 2004 are required to have an exclusionary socket designed to only operate type O lamps, these sockets are usually pink in color as opposed to white.

You look like me when I was young you just seem like me

You… well I don’t know you seem familiar

ugly ahh led fluorescent is better

MicroSun is made by Venture Lighting, you might find the right bulb there

Some HPS lights start off bluish, then shift to an incandescent lamp color, and then shift to orange

Hi, I have 4 high pressure sodium at home that are at the end of their life. I like them directly.I really like this style of video, frankly continue from a French person 😉

Love the shape. Keep up the great work. -kawwie

I would recommend using a 70W bulb, as its very close to 68W

Thank you for the concern and for watching. I did not know about the PSI. Please comment any time. Always extra caution is needed with HID arcs bulbs and I definitely don't use them daily. My understanding is with these smaller arc tubes made for open fixtures they are protected by an inner shielding which also filters out UV light. Still needs careful handling.

Hi, but yes, metal halide lamps are great, but I hope you know how dangerous metal halide lamps are, I would suggest handling them in an enclosed light fixture because if the arc tube explodes it can take the outer glass with it and, worse, hot mercury vapor will be released into the atmosphere, which mercury especially when hot is quite dangerous, high pressure sodium lamps are safer than metal halide lamps because the internal pressure is less than metal halide lamps where it is about 70-90psi ! you can use high pressure sodium lamps without the enclosed light fixture and be more careful especially with metal halide lamps when they are at the end of their life! and you're doing very well to wear safety glasses!!!👏

Yes, instant start ballasts will drive every last drop of life out of a fluorescent tube. Just out of curiosity, which type of instant start ballast are you using? For the common 48 inch tube there are two types, the F32T8 electronic instant start ballast being the most common today, and the F48T12 ballast, for 40 watt 48 inch T12 lamps with a single pin on each end, much less common and not likely to be found at your brick and mortar stores. Single pin lamps aka Slimlines are available in 24, 36, 42, 48, 60, 64, 72, 84 & 96 inches for the T12, 72 & 96 inches for the T8, and 42 & 64 inches for the T6, with the F96T12 & F72T12 being the most common slimline lamps in use.

I've never seen this weird brand before🤔 but always philips, osram and sylvania are better, and if it doesn't reach 80-90 degrees celsius ie 176-195 degrees fahrenheit, only the filament and tude led are somewhat better made . but if each led is 2.8v and not 3v they have put it to its limits as the limits of the chips are 80 degrees celsius 176 degrees fahrenheit and of course it will burn much faster that way and then only the filamemt and the tude have to to be placed in a closed light fixture, otherwise the others will scald 90 maybe even 100 degrees in there!

awsome!

An interesting thing to know about Japan’s HID lighting is that many metal halide and high pressure sodium lamps function as direct retrofit lamps for mercury vapor fixtures. In those case, there is no need to change the ballast to upgrade from mercury vapor to high pressure sodium or metal halide.

Additionally, I have seen that Japan also has some smaller preheat circline fluorescent chandeliers for use in homes too. Those chandeliers often use anywhere between 3 and 6 FCL30 or FCL30/28 circline fluorescent lamps.

its that kids

Interestingly, the flat quad tubes seen on the shelf are also commonly used in desk lamps in our home country too, plus the Japanese quad tube lamps are sometimes used in some Lights of America CFL adapters and some of the long PL lamps are also used in certain desk lamps as well.

Even though this may be off topic, I apparently noticed that in your video of the Japanese preheat circline fluorescent pendant fixtures in the antique house, the lamps inside them actually consist of the following: 30W energy saver replacement lamps for 12 inch 32W circline fluorescent lamps and also 28W energy saver replacement lamps for 9 inch 30W circline fluorescent lamps (you mistook those for 8 inch 22W circline fluorescent lamps, which are not really such a thing in Japan, I have seen an older double circline pendant fixture on a Japanese Auction site that apparently had a 22W circline lamp, but it had some metal end caps that were not joined together). In fact, Japan apparently has some 20W circline fluorescent lamps that are the size of our 22W circline fluorescent lamps plus 18W energy saver lamps meant to replace them. In addition, you also sighted some rapid start fixtures that take 40W T10 tubes rather than T12 tubes. In some cases, these 4 foot T10 tubes are sometimes rated at 36W for energy saving applications in rapid start fixtures. Interestingly, T12 fluorescent tubes in Japan under 8 feet are extremely hard to find and are often sold at high prices. Additionally, you should also be able to safely operate most preheat fluorescent fixtures from Tokyo since that region of Japan uses the 100V 50Hz standard and preheat ballasts rated for 100V 50Hz should be safe to operate on 120V 60Hz since if you want to operate them on 60Hz, you would need to increase the voltage to a slightly higher level to get the lamps to properly operate. Ideally, those ballasts would work best on 110V 60Hz supplies, which means that running them on 120V 60Hz should do little harm to them. Additionally, I also see that incandescent lamps are still commonly sold in Japan and plus, there are plenty of 110V lamps still being sold as well, which means that you should be able to safely operate them back home as well.

Tokyo is weird. but where are the LED's

Do you have the link where you bought this model of lamp with ballast?

Hello, is there any way you can measure the inductance of this ballast? for a project I'm doing

I had a 6 lamp F8T5 version of this a while ago. It has since been stripped and used for parts like ballasts and sockets.