Видео

Indeed you are! 😃

@@diykeyboards2522 OMG UR STILL ALIVE

@@arlenham Oh, I'm still kickin'. Just been busy with the store and haven't had extra time for videos.

@@diykeyboards2522 i see i see, glad ur still doing well!!

I've been meaning to get back to doing some videos. I might just have to do that now!

Something about the pads being done

I know this is two years late, but the reason why this usually isn't possible is because the soldering pads themselves also come off the pcb so there isn't anything for the solder to stick to.

discord.com/invite/2wBnSYH

YES! one socket loss = collateral damage! works for non hotswap keyboards too.

So glad to hear you found it helpful!

How do you know if the pads are done? Can't you just solder the socket to the pad?

If there's metal there to work with you can certainly solder it back in place. Sometimes it's just easier to run jumpers.

@@sixdeuces6825 could I use some enamel copper because I found some and some people used that instead of ribbon cable.

@@Ryieru Yes, definitely. You need high heat to burn off the insulation though. I often use it when handwiring.

@@sixdeuces6825 is the insulation the part of the copper? Where you connect it to other hot swap sockets

@@Ryieru The insulation is the enamel coating on the wire. You heat it up real hot, like 750F (typically the wire spool has the correct temp listed) to burn off the coating and reveal the copper wire beneath.

If you're very lucky it could work from just the contact between the broken parts, but in most cases solder will be required.

Pretty much anything will work. It's easiest to use something pretty fine, like 28awg or similar. I often use wires pulled from inside old USB or LAN cables for repairs like this.

@@sixdeuces6825 Oh I see. thanks for the reply! subbed

Great question! It's called magnet wire. Essentially, it's a copper core with an enamel insulation coating which burns off when hit with the iron. No need to strip insulation! It's typically used for the electromagnet wire wrappings inside electric motors.

@@diykeyboards2522 Thank you for your quick response. Maybe hand wiring isn't as impossible as it seems. I will build on a pcb first because I haven't done anything big in a while but this one seems doable. Does it burn on only in the area that you touch or if you heated for too long melts elsewhere? I am asking if you encountered that just so I have it in mind if it happens in my attempt.

@@hellNo116 The insulation burns off in a very small area. It has to be quite hot before it dissolves, and because the wire dissipates heat so quickly, it can't really spread very far. Just FYI, if you want to try something with a PCB, we just got Corne and Sofle PCB kits in stock on the store.

@@diykeyboards2522 I think you are based on north America, if I recall correctly. And the shipping and import costs make it prohibited for me, since I live in Europe. If I am wrong, I will check you out later today, when I finish with my jobs. The designs you mentioned are really appealing to me due to their size

@@hellNo116 Yes, we are in the USA. I can't help with import fees, but we do offer free international shipping on orders of $150USD or greater.

Assuming you can get it to fit, then yes it could work. Really though you can just solder directly to the switch and get the same result.

Great to hear! Thanks!

Glad to hear it! Thanks.

I imagine it'd be easy to just desolder them. Not a bad thing, long as you haven't ripped off the pads.

Glad to hear it helped! Thanks!

I use strands of 28AWG ribbon cable, which you can find in 1 meter lengths on my site at: www.diykeyboards.com/parts/product/p10p-rainbow-ribbon-cable

@@diykeyboards2522 can you use 20 AWG or do you need to use 28

@@findponcho Either will work fine.

Here you go: github.com/diykeyboards/dactyl-keyboard Look for the STLs in the /things folder with the HS in the filename. Happy printing!

@@sixdeuces6825hi, I went to the things folder, but I could not find the files in the name of which there is HS. can you write a path for a 6x6 keyboard with hotswap like (dactyl-keyboard/things/) ? I will be very grateful.

@@alexbobrov1584 I'm trying to get this posted for you. For some reason the /things folder seems to not be syncing with the rest of the repo. I will update here when I get it resolved. Thanks.

@@diykeyboards2522 Thank you so much for the answer, I already started thinking that I couldn't make this keyboard, I'll wait😀

Great suggestions, thanks!

But then you can't replace it if it gets loose

I print on a mix of Prusa and upgraded Ender machines. The key for good supports was setting vertical offset to 0.25mm and turning down the extrusion width to .35mm. They should clean away easily at those settings. Be sure to test on a smaller print first!

I haven't, to be honest. No reason you couldn't though. I can definitely say that using rubber feet and a deskmat make a massive difference in how they sound. That's something I'll have to experiment with in the future.

if you want to go all out you could probably put some plastic wrap over the internals on the underside and pour some silicone to make a mute...

The diagnosis would be identical. Rather than soldering to the hotswap, you'd simply be soldering the leads directly to the switch pins. Because the switch is normally held in place by the solder, you'd need to glue it in place.

In my experience it hasn't been an issue, but you can always add a drop of CA to fully secure each socket. I would do that after wiring, in case a socket were to get soldered shut accidentally.

Thanks so much! I really appreciate the feedback. There is definitely more on the way!

Sure. Email me at jesse@diykeyboards.com and I'll hook you up. Just lmk what column/row format you're looking for.

There are some opener tools available on Thingiverse. I have not made the Switchcracker public, sorry.

I'm using standard Prusa Slicer supports, spacing at 3mm. Set your vertical offset to 0.3mm and turn support extrusion down to like 80% of normal and they will release much more easily.

@@diykeyboards2522 really appreciate it!

@@diykeyboards2522 how do you adjust the support extrusion to80% cannot find this setting

@@TacoMental In PrusaSlicer, you'll find it under Print Settings > Extrusion Width > Support Material. It can be set to a specific width or a percentage.

@@diykeyboards2522 do i set it to 80% or 80% of the default value?

Sure! If there's any other specifics you'd like to see, just let me know.

It's a lot of waste, in any case. Over time I have reduced that some by manually tuning my supports. I plan to make some more build videos in the near future, so keep an eye out for that.

Yes! I've learned a lot since this video. (Printed a few dozen of these since then!) The main thing is to open up the slicer setting for the support offset. I use PrusaSlicer, which calls this Contact Z Distance. I set mine to 0.3mm for these cases now. Also, you want to do some tests to make sure you're not over-extruding, as that will close up the offset gap and make everything harder to remove.

You can buy these on my store at: www.diykeyboards.com/switchcracker Thanks!

The main camera is a Logitech C920 webcam. The inset is just the built in camera on my laptop.