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New Life
Добавлен 28 сен 2012
FIXED - LR3, LR4 & Rover Sport Parking Brake Fault, Loud Squelching Noise, Simple Adjustment
Over time, parking cable get loose to the point where it need to be tightened again. I adjusted 13 clicks on the rear right shoes. This might sound like a lot. It actually only made about two turns on the thread, moved about 2.5 mm. There is no need of any new parts. This is all what it needs to get it fixed.
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Are you twisting teeth up or down? Gonna try this weekend but I’m just a bit confused. When adjusting with the screw driver - you pushing teeth up or down ? Thanks
What issue does this fix?
Worked like a charm! Thank you!
Did you do that on both sides or just the one ? thanks.
Only one side
The rear drum breaks need to be checked at each service. If not you can get the above issues. There is also a special service mode that calibrates the actuator and load sensor. This should be followed. Now if only I could fix my EPB I would be happy, but it does not make any noises!
Did you loosen or tighten 13 times ? We’re the brake shoes too loose or too tight in the drum before you made the adjustment ?
High gear or low gear should have nothing to do with the parking brake mechanism
Lack of services right there 😂😂
Hello My car show park break fault But no noise in the motor What you think the problem from the switch or motor Please I need help
What was the issue?
It seems a game changer to you, I myself with no experience didnt get it what you have done with the wire in the back side of the car. You put a screw driver in a hole and moved it up and down then its fixed3, ehhh ? :) Explain more for the non technicians, If we have basic knowledge we wouldnt be here watching youtube :) Thanks
In short it’s basically a cog, that spins inside with the teeth and as it is twisted with the screw driver it’s pushes the brakes against the inside of the brake disc , when the disc can’t freely spin then you slightly untwist just the point where it can freely spin again
Most important, Please clean and lube the break shoes first, before any adjustment. Any binding or tension from a sticking or seized shoe will make false break force reading, and cause failure.
I live in Manitoba. right above Minnesota and I know exactly the kind of winters you mean. Had my Rover for 15 years and although I had the brakes done 3 or 4 times, I never replaced the handbrake shoes. I think I will do it this time, as I am due for a new brake job. I always thought that I would have to replace the handbrake actuator, but it turns out that I just need to adjust it. :)
This video is a game changer! I had this problem with my L320 for a very long time and dreaded the idea of replacing it. Thankfully I live in a very flat part of central Canada and never have to use it.I'm going to try this with my car when the weather gets a bit warmer and change to my summer tires. Can you tell mr the direction of the turns on the wheel adjustor? I also know ( and tried it to no avail) a procedure to "bed" the new pads on the emergency break, something like tapping the emergency brake switch three or four times( I don't remember now, but I can find out if you want). Thank you very much! :)
The rear right wheel for sure. Turn the teeth down to expend the adjustor, so it take less for the brake cable to pull tight.
@@newlife21llc Thank you!
I went to school in Minnesota. Land with 10000 lakes. Remembered the deep freeze, and how much salt to used for the road. I had a pair of after market break shoes as spare parts, only the pins were rusted and replaced. the original is still in good use. I did do cleaning and lubing every two years along with change of fluid. I live on hillside property. Hand break is used everyday. Now, it has been 15 years. It is as good as it should. I think the winter road salt and lack of use are the negative factors. Great luck to you.