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Thanks!

Basically, you need to give more positive feedback when your pup is doing what you like, compared to when they are doing what you don't like. So if your pup is upset, reassure occasionally with a voice that sounds both comforting and mildly annoyed, like you're dealing with a toddler throwing a tantrum "It's OK, there's no need to be upset, I'm right here, you're safe, and honestly, you're being a little ridiculous". The moment they stop crying, you switch to sweet, but calming praice. "Thank you. Goooood dog. I looooove how you're being quiet. Yes" Use a slow and soft voice. You're right, this is not the time for high-energy praise, it's time for Whispering Sweet Nothings to your pup. And then, when they're quiet, again, occasionally praise them. Don't ignore them while they're quietly settled down. It's no big deal if you wake them up accidentally, if they're tired, they'll go back to sleep and falling asleep is the skill you really want your pup to master, so a little extra practice is great.

Yeah, the sounds that dos make when they are playing or excited can really scare some people, even if they're totally normal and friendly. That's great that you're working on getting those sounds under control. If you can put the vocalizations on cue so you can let your dog know when they're OK, and when they're not, that can be really useful and a lot of fun, but it's not the easiest thing to train.

Thank you! We're glad you like the video! Yeah, some dogs are happy to play with anyone, others are more picky. They're just like people! The vocalizations during play can really scare other people, especially when they come from a pit, so it's really handy if you can train a nice reliable Sit-Stay and/or Shush that works even during high-energy play sessions.

We try to keep things simple and easy! Thanks for the feedback!

@@DunbarAcademy Please keep uploading more videos to help dog owners become even better ❤🐾

We're glad we could help put you at ease. It's still a good idea to practice getting control of your dogs while they are playing. If you can get your dog to listen to you in the middle of an exciting play session, there's a good chance you'll be able to get your dog to listen to you in any situation!

Yeah, that's the truth. Which is kinda crazy because we can TALK to people and explain what to do with complex language. I think the big thing is that we don't have control over people like we do with dogs. With people, we can usually control their access to all their favorite things, which makes training easy. Not so with other people. If people were willing to hand over their daily allotment of food or their daily serving of chocolates or cigarettes we could train them real quick!

Yes, we'd love to. Really we just need the right dog to work with. For now though, you should take a look at this: www.dunbaracademy.com/pages/dadd-retreat-with-honor. It's the fastest, easiest way to get a dog to like a person, assuming the dog isn't dangerous. If the dog has actually injured someone, you really should get help from a professional who can keep everyone safe! In which case, you should read this: www.dunbaracademy.com/pages/dangerous-aggression

You want your dog to be stationary, and Sit is much more stable than Stand, but it's easier to get into and out of than a Down. You could totally use a Down Stay. Also, with your dog in a Sit-Stay, staring at you, it's very apparent to everyone else in the area, including any other dogs or dog owners, that your dog is under control, and is not a threat. You could use a Stand-Stay but getting a rock-solid Stand Stay is not easy, it's so easy for your dog to break the stay...

Yeah, the ultimate goal is the dog becomes totally at ease around other dogs. The immediate goal is to be able to handle your dog in such a way that they don't react aggressively when they see other dogs. This training Classically Conditions your dog so they FEEL more at ease in the presence of other dogs, while it also uses Operant Conditioning to teach your dog to behave in an appropriate manner, and initially, the most appropriate thing to do is to ignore the other dog and focus on you. As your dog gets more comfortable around other dogs you can certainly work on getting your dog to interact in a prosocial way with other dogs if that's a long term goal. It's certainly nice when dogs play well with other dogs but for some people, that's not a priority. Really, it's up to you!

This video was beautifully demonstrated using REAL TIME footage and excellent narrative by Jamie Dunbar. Why can't you and your dad offer more timely videos using this kind of presentation ? No other training school on RUclips is using this amazing format. Thank you!

@@DunbarAcademy thanks so much for the clarification!

Yeah, we're very proud of Ford and Nell, they did great. It's not often that people are able to take advice and apply it so quickly. The techniques are pretty simple but in stressful moments it can be really difficult to change your habits. Ford did a great job of staying calm and making small changes to his handling and it made all the difference.

You are certainly right, distance makes a big difference and we lucked out with the second encounter where the dog stopped at a nice distance, stayed there and then turned around and left. Same for the dog walking past near the end, they gave Nell a wide berth. We can't be sure of what Nell would have done if either of those dogs had walked right past at a close distance, it certainly would have been more of a challenge

I get what you're saying. Dogs can break skin very easily if they want to. That said, many dogs have learned to reflexively inhibit the force of their bite when they bite other dogs, even if they are fighting. Ideally, all pet dogs would have developed this learned "bite inhibition" reflex. If you ever see bloodshed, it means you have a real fight and you have a real dangerous dog.

Thanks for your comment! There were multiple times in this video where Ford and Ian were able to use a food treat to lure Nell's attention away from the dog. Take a look at 7:40 in the video. Or look at 17:25. That said, you are totally right, if the situation is too scary or overwhelming, you might find you are unable to lure with a food treat, or anything else. That's where it really helps to spot other dogs when they are still far away so you can start luring before the stimulus is too exciting. When reactivity is fear-based, the dog is not enjoying the behaviors of lunging and barking, they're doing it because they're scared. WIth fear-based problems, teaching the dog to FEEL at ease is the first step and offering food is a great way to help many dogs feel at ease. It sounds like you are imagining that the dog is thinking something like "I can bark and lunge at this dog now and ignore my owner, I'll still get a treat later if I want it" but when dogs and people are very afraid, they don't strategize, they act out of instinct and self-preservation. If your dog is over the top and you can't lure them, you can still talk to them, and you can still use your voice to help put them at ease. As soon as they are comfortable enough to listen to you and do what you want, you can and should reinforce the good behavior. You don't want to hold a grudge when training a dog, and try to punish a dog for something they did 10 seconds ago. You have to give a dog feedback about what they are doing right now. You should check out this video if you want to learn more: ruclips.net/video/YHPJpRGqWYE/видео.html

Ian's latest round of seminars are all lectures, no workshops, so alas, no dogs will be allowed at any of them

It's one of the reasons we like to train off-leash whenever possible. It's a great way to know if your dog is a willing participant in training! If your dog doesn't WANT to train with you, you're not doing it right!

Yeah, as soon as you see a dog on the horizon you get your dog turned around and focused on you so you can start giving them reassurance, treats and lots of praise. Thanks for watching!

You are so right! Thank you for sharing the positivity! Yeah, give it a try and if you're using our methods you're going to see progress and your dog WILL THANK YOU!

That's true of my dog too. She's 12-yr old and I don't ask her to sit very often. She can pay attention to me, make eye contact, without sitting. So this training would still work for her.

Yeah, if your dog isn't comfortable Sitting, you can simply ask for the Come, Stand-Stay, Watch Me instead. Or you could do a Down-Stay. Sit is more stable than Stand, and easier to get into and out of then Down, but the important thing is repositioning your dog's body so it's oriented away from the other dog and towards you, and maintaining that focus on you. And if your dog is reactive on walks, then the emotional distress from the anxiety is an important consideration as well, you really want to help them feel comfortable emotionally as quickly as possible, as chronic fear can be very unpleasant, and very bad for health.

Nice! Yeah, the important thing is getting your dog's eye contact. Reactivity starts with your dog looking at the other dog. If you get your dog locked into looking at you, they're not going to react to anything in the environment, and they're not going to trigger other dogs or people to react towards them. Give your dog a scratch behind the ears from us!

Thanks! Yes, we hope so!

Aww, thanks! Have you read Ian's latest? Barking Up the Right Tree. It's his Magnum Opus! Glad you liked the video, thanks for the comment!

No, I don't think so. We don't have the beginning of this particular scrap on video, but if you watch the other videos with Baker you can see that he gets into a few scraps with other pups, just from roughhousing. The good news is, by Week 3 of class he's learned to play nicely and stops getting into scraps. He's figured out who wants to play rough and he's learned how to keep things under control. Good boy Baker!

@@DunbarAcademy ok thanks

Thanks for the offer but I don't think we're interested. We do offer an affiliate program though if you'd like to earn money by referring people to our site.

Thank you! Wow, 30 years, that's a lot of experience. Thanks for watching!

I am not a dog trainer, but we have had dogs for 30 years and adopted our fourth dog, a severely traumatized 4 month old rescue from Texas, at the beginning of the year. I don't go for looks, I have to connect with the animal. It's all about energy and body language, something I have learned during my 25 years of being a wildlife rehabilitator. Rex did turn out to be a handsome dog, but it is his trust, love and loyalty that he developed over this past year that matter to me. As he matures he will become the protector that I need. As for the 3-second rule, that pretty much applies throughout a dog's life. I think many dog owners also need to learn the 10-second rule. That means hold your tongue and take a few deep breaths. Then clean up whatever mess there is without swearing and yelling. You are not a 3-year old throwing a temper tantrum, you are an adult. So behave like one. Animals cannot respect an unstable human. They need a stable, steadfast, and trustworthy pack leader.

Thank you! It's pretty easy if you pay attention and use your voice, which you usually have at the ready!

So, we're not encouraging you to use praise to reinforce "fighting", we're encouraging you to use praise to reinforce good behavior, or "not fighting." If you wait three seconds after your dog does something you don't like, before you praise, you won't reinforce the undesirable behavior. Does that make sense? Do you think praise is good for reinforcing good behavior? As to the 3 second rule, you should try it. Watch your dog do something good, wait until they stop, then wait 3 more seconds without giving any feedback, then reward. See if you can successfully reinforce a behavior this way. In our experience, you cannot.

Thank you! Yeah, it can be stressful in the moment, but if you can overcome anxiety or fearfulness problems, or even make substantial progress in a single day, we think it's well worth it in terms of overall quality of life. Patience is one of the most powerful tools in animal training!

You can sign up for a 1-month free trial of the Top Dog Academy with this link: dunbar.info/pupclass2022

It's good to break up puppy scuffles and let the pups know that this sort of behavior is not appropriate (And we'll have another video coming out soon that goes into this in more detail so please subscribe if you aren't already) but you don't need prolonged time-outs or harsh physical corrections to punish the behavior, gentle restraint and a disapproving tone is usually enough. You'll know it's enough if the pups stop scrapping. And you shouldn't let the fear of puppy scuffles stop you from letting pups play off-leash. If you don't manage the play sessions or provide any feedback there is the potential for fearful pups to grow more fearful as rambunctious pups grow more rambunctious. But with the appropriate feedback and management, it's easy to teach the rambunctious pups to play gently and the shy pups to grow more confident.

Thanks for your reply!

Thanks! Yeah, we'd love to put together a series of required-viewing videos for new puppy and dog owners but alas, we don't have that power. In some ways, I think it's up to some of the professionals (Breeders, Veterinarians, Shelter Workers) to make sure that novice puppy and dog owners understand some of these essential concepts

If you don't see any of the behavior described in this video, the play bows, the bending of the elbows, the alternating of who is doing the chasing, the pauses in play, then you might want to do the "Bully Test": Simply restrain one of the dogs and see what the other dog does. Does the free dog come up to the restrained dog and try to engage? Or dog they use the opportunity to retreat. If they try to engage, that's a good sign they were enjoying the interaction. Then you can switch which dog is restrained to see how the other dog feels. In general, when dogs are not feeling playful, they are usually either: cowering/retreating, stiff/still/slow-moving, lunging/snapping/teeth-bared (but without any of the bouncy, bendy play signals) Of course, the surest sign that it's not appropriate play behavior would be one dog injuring another dog, but you probably don't need a RUclips video to tell you that...

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Thanks

Thank you kindly

That's great! It sounds like you go above and beyond as a pet/house sitter, I hope your clients appreciate you!

Thank you!

Awesome! We're happy to help. Best of luck with your dog!

Wonderful! Keep up the good work!

Thank you! Yeah, learning to read dog body language is invaluable for training and living with dogs, and it's a real shame that so many dog owners, and even dog trainers, don't know how to use their voice to effectively communicate with their dog, manage their behavior, reinforce good behavior and redirect unwanted behavior. But we're going to bring it back!!!

How do you know what the other dogs are thinking? It could be that they recognize your dog for what they are, an over-eager playmate with insufficient social savvy and self-control. At any rate, it seems like you've figured out how to manage it, well done! My advice would be to reinforce your dog with heartfelt praise when they are playing the way you like, and to interrupt play for very short training sessions, just 10 seconds or so, and then, when she does what you ask, release her back to playing. When dogs are left to play without structure, that's when things get out of control. By integrating play and training together, you turn play, which has the potential to be a huge distraction and challenge, into a reward, that motivates your dog to listen to you more than most any other reward you can offer. I would also work on a really Solid Sit-Stay and Watch Me that you can use before you let her greet or play with any dog, and that you practice in play sessions. Happy training!

You can feed them separately. We like to give dogs a food-filled chew toy when it's time to settle down in their crate, but you could use playpens or baby gates to separate them. Or, if you're around to supervise, you could simply teach both to "Go to Your Bed" or "Go to Your Mat" or "Go to Your Crate" for meal times. You could also put several chew toys out, and each is tethered to a different spot so each dog can only work on one chew toy at a time

Hi! Yeah, join the Top Dog Academy and you could totally interview Ian over Zoom. And yes, I think you're right, the dog world has a little too much in the way of politics and dogma and not enough attention to actual results.

Ha! Yeah, that was just a little stock footage our editor threw in...

@@DunbarAcademy wish we had an editor. I’m still hands-on with absolutely everything.😳 I really need to learn to let go

Hi Dunbar and Son Dog Training. From Bulled and Son Dog Training. I feel Dr Dunbar and myself have probably come to similar conclusions on the State of Dog Training. It is indeed Now.. Always has been and Always will be a Results based Business. Might be great to have a Live at some stage if you’re up for it. Or as l seem to remember seeing a couple of times in the past a recorded chat over a Beer. 🍺

We have hours of videos on this RUclips channel and literally 100s of hours of demo videos on Dunbar Academy but this, alas, is a talking head video.

Thanks! Yes, we'll do more Live Broadcasts on RUclips in the future. Ian's currently in England on a little lecture tour so it will be a few weeks before we do