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U can , just wanna make sure the piston is up all the way when u do cause u dont wanna drop the valve inside the cylinder

Or use compressed air to hole the valve up

@@james10739 I didn't think about that one that's a good idea

@leolion2216 ya people do that to change springs in the vehicle too but making sure each piston is up works too

@james10739 I need to try that , I always just keep the piston up and use a magnet , but the air trick sure sound a whole lot better

You blind?

1:09

Wtf

Otherwise the valve stem will stay stuck to the keepers

Apologies, the website was down for a few days. You should be able to access the checklist now. Thanks

I just downloaded the checklist. It works. You have to scroll down to where the check list is. It looks like the download button is not lit up. Push on it anyway. It worked for me.

1:09

Lmao he tryin to say a 2 second clip was it

Pull off, push new one on. How difficult is this to understand?

Yea no bueno…. Surprised he did cross threads going in that quick

I've never seen any one go to town with an impact on aluminum. Without at least starting it by hand. Somebody's really gonna get screwed and get pissed at this guy

Oof haha best of luck!

That was probably the smart way to do it instead of the universal tools. I guess it's either the 80 bucks for that and an unused tool that you can sell again, or 80 bucks and the trouble of hauling the block to a machine shop. Something of an ordeal either way

Hydraulic lifters do not typically require valve lash adjustment, if that's what you're referring to. The procedure for reassembling the valve train I follow calls for turning the engine over until a given valve is fully closed and the lifter is on the base circle of the cam (i.e. not being lifted by the lobe of the cam). Then, torque that rocker arm bolt to 22ft/lbs and repeat for the remaining valves. That's all that is required for ls engines (at least ones with hydraulic lifters and stock rockers). Hope that helps

Ah yes, good old rust. Glad you found it helpful and best of luck with the rest of your build!

Rust spray around dowels and crack between torque converter housing and engine air hammer lightly on the dowels, pry tranny out

Very much appreciated!

Unfortunately not this time. I do have a build list all spec-ed out and ready to go but that'll have to be for a future video.

@@builtbottomendperformance what’s your list consist of? Are you dead set on diy?

@Josh D Right now it would be a GPZ TORQKIT clutch kit, Transgo shift kit, RevMax triple disc converter, deep pan, an upgraded cooler with some nice AN lines, maybe a c2 hub, and then I'm going to design up a c3 oiler upgrade pto cover & drilling jig (and a seal refresh kit of course). Parts list could change a bit, but that's what I'd be doing if I were building it right now. I'm 99% sure I'll be DIY'ing it both for cost reasons and because I'm a madman who likes getting in over my head

@@builtbottomendperformance if you’d like I can put together a diy trans kit for you, with everything you’d need, using those gpz clutches but in increased clutch count, with lml style pistons and everything you would need to build a trans for 700hp, and a couple tricks to make it that much better

@Josh D Sweet, any tips would be appreciated!

Heck yeah! A compound Kodiak would be sweet.

Good feedback, thanks. I'll make sure I don't skimp on that sort of thing. I'm in Colorado and would be happy to talk about what you have in mind!

Thank you!

Your feedback would be much appreciated! The intercooler vbands are a pretty new addition to the lineup (all parts are still pretty new to amazon along with the business itself) so I'm still waiting on reviews to start accruing. I hope they work out well for you! Feel free to reach out if you have any feedback I can help with. I also notice you have an active youtube channel of your own. If there are any parts that could help you persue that more aggressively, let me know and I'd be happy to discuss some sort of sponsorship arrangement if you're interested.

Yeah it's got stock internals for now. Not going crazy with the turbo/injector setup yet so it's held up fine so far

Thanks! I definitely will! Let me know if there's anything in particular you'd like to see!

This one is from National Tools, the nt-11 and I got it for ~3 grand on a payment plan. Hopefully one works out for you at some point!

Thanks! Haha I totally believe it!

It is a fair bit of work but it's totally worth it if you can swing it. I got probably 90% of the parts for the build on ebay. Turbo, manifold, intercooler, aluminum and steel tubing for the exhaust and intercooler piping, injectors, fuel pump, etc. I may go with my local metal supplier this time though, which I've done for previous turbo builds and the metal quality and finish is a lot better

Just couldn't hold in the excitement 😁

There are other places they can go. The important thing is that they're above the oil level sitting in the pan sump so oil doesn't back up in the feed lines and blow out the turbo seals.

Thank you much!

Just realized I typed Hour instead of your....but all the same, an hour would be fun too. Lol

I'd love to do a bottom end build on the lb7, but I'm not sure it will be soon. It would be a nice bit of piece of mind since that's one of the weak points on those. As far as updates, I've been mostly focused on the camaro right now but the transmission is leaking really bad, I'm thinking from the converter seal. So I'm installing a two post lift right now and once that's installed, I'll likely be using it to do a a "how to remove and reinstall the Allison 1000" type video to replace the leaky seals. Sounds like some good turbo options to consider. Hopefully it works out for you

@@builtbottomendperformance These lifts are becoming more and more affordable now. It's really a no-brain'r if you have the space. Be certain, though that your concrete pad is of sufficient thickness. Lol.

@@aaronschocke2147 That they are! Good point about the concrete haha