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Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. It's possible if you're also experiencing that loss of power at about the same throttle point. If you're power is good check your timing that it's not too far advanced or jumping around from a worn distributor or worn timing chain. What you're thinking is a backfire could actually be a "Lean Pop" in the carburetor or a vacuum leak. If you carefully/lightly cup your hand over the carb and the RPM's pick up you probably have a vacuum leak which could be worn throttle plate bushings. Throttle plate shaft will wiggle around. A worn accelerator pump in the carb will cause it to lean pop, not giving that squirt of fuel it needs when you open the throttle to overcome the temporary lean condition of opening the throttle. Check those things and let me know.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Wow, Alaska in a 76 Cutlass. You would have needed the non existent 4WD Version. ;-) You're right, they don't do too well in the snow. Had this car over 40 years and if you park on wet flat grass you'll need to be towed. If you go to my channel home, you'll see a whole series on Route 66 in the Cutlass. Hopefully have one finished today on Sedona AZ in the Cutllass. Went all the way to Tecopa Ca from Atlanta for the meet and greet with Wonderhussy and Flea Market fundraiser for the Fire Dept. Have numerous videos and still adding them. Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching. I have an 8 part Playlist for this: ruclips.net/p/PLzYkLEbqfTQHaO2TLIwzSczTjgm4bXPhY Somehow video 1 which you've watched and commented on and Video 2: ruclips.net/video/kIBdNcWm958/видео.html might not be in there so I'll have to fix that. If you go to my channel home and select videos, you'll see them almost one after another video for this about 2 years ago. I'll cut to the chase which the last video comically shows is that the best way to fix a 10 plus year high milage Kia with blown head gaskets is to junk it. While the symptom is a "blown" head gasket, the real cause is terrible design/manufacturing practices where unlike Aviation where all aluminum threaded hole have steel inserts installed, the automotive industry skips that step and puts a high torque, in this case a TTY Torque To Yield steel bolt straight into aluminum threads. Over time the threads are weakened causing the heads to move around to the point of a catastrophic head gasket leak. To repair this a very expensive $400 - $600 Insert Tool Kit specific to the engine is required. No way I was going to blow money on that, and since I have the skills and it was no great loss if it didn't work, took a chance on an alternative rouge approach tapping the tops of the long head bolt holes and putting inserts at the top using Chevy Small Block Main Bearing Bolts and Washers. I was just curious to see if this alternate rouge method would work, and if it didn't, well I had fun trying. It almost worked, but there just wasn't enough meat with the size of the holes as they were and the insert I needed to use and one of them pulled loose. Cylinder and water jacket walls are too thin to drill to the next size. So besides the over priced insert tool, the cost of all the gaskets, seals, and sensors, it would take about 16 hrs (2 days) to do all the head bolt inserts at the bottom of 6" deep holes, another few days to put it all together, and the potential for oil and coolant leaks is too high to be considered wise to repair this. If you're not experienced in lining up 4 cams, their chains, rails, and tensioners, this is not an engine to use as your first try. In one of the comment sections threads of one of the 8 videos for this I helped a novice through putting it all together and then troubleshooting a problem caused by a sensor. It was not fun, and I warned him in the beginning to just junk it. He got in way over his head, and I managed to get him through it. In the end, after many hours, even if it runs fine, all you have is 13 year old high milage mini van that on it's best day might be worth $1,000. Given that, it is prone develop other issues. I sold mine for parts for $500 and put AC in my old truck. Spend your money and time on something better than this.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Quality of Fuel and Water pumps has been going down for 20 years. I had a restoration and repair shop and I dreaded fuel and water pump issues. Fuel pumps not only have this ridiculous oil leaking problem, they generally put out way too much fuel pressure and you have to put on a regulator to step it down. 1960's and older pumps were actually rebuildable. If the person could do w/o the car for a while or I was doing an engine build, I'd send the core off to White Post in VA and have them rebuild the original pump. Those weep holes serve multiple purposes on a correctly manufactured pump, to drain fuel if the diaphragm breaks and to keep oil off the top of the diaphragm, but there must be some sort of baffle that the Chinese and Mexican made pumps are leaving out. Mine was a crimp seal issue between halves. The stuff the local parts houses have is just junk. I think Airtex or something like that is what most of them have. It's all junk. I'd see what NAPA has and look on Rock Auto, Parts Geek, and Summit. I had a Chevy I was loosing so much money on the fuel pump leaking oil I finally just put an electric pump back near the gas tank. Let me know what you do to resolve it.

@ will do thanks for reply back.

Thanks for watching. Glad you liked the video. Not sure it you already have dual tanks or a single tank (19 Gal Rear) and want to do a return line on that. Looking quickly at an LMC catalog, it looks like 80-84 are the same and starting in 85 they have one to two year selections like 85 - 86, 87, 88-89. The diesel for the 19 gal tank only has two fuel line fittings. The top roll over/vent valve takes I think a 1/4" line, but you'd have the vent the cap to avoid either forming a vacuum or pressurizing the tank. If you poke around my Channel home you'll see a video I did on the rollover/vent valve. Maybe just braze/solder a return line onto the sender for the year/tank you have. You'd have to have dual selector valves to return the fuel to the correct tank. Look on LMC Truck on line catalog and Rock Auto and Parts Geek and use them as an on line reference database. They generally have good accurate photos and year breakdowns that you can use for comparisons. Sounds like a cool fun project. Let me know what you find or end up doing.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. The coil in this case is a sensible component to rule in/out and easy to swap out. The spark color can be hard to judge and doesn't come across true on the video, and honestly a blue spark is actually hotter. I was in a hurry doing the video and mis-spoke. Anyhow, it does sound potentially like the coil as having spark if it's not hot enough is essentially the same as no spark. Sounds like the ESC is working, so if you have the right amount of fuel (as in it's not too much and flooding) it's pointing towards the coil. This video has helped quite a few folks, so hope this solves your problem. Let me know if it was the coil.

@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 brought a new coil about to test now.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 it was the ignition coil as suspected mate. Thanks.

Yay!!!! Great news. So glad I made this video. It has helped quite a few people. Glad you're up and running again. Hopefully I've earned your subscription. ;-) Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Let me know how it goes. I think on a 95 the coil is part of the distributor if it's still a factory set up. Many people strip the EFI off and convert to a carburetor and put some sort of aftermarket Electronic Ignition like a Pertronix or MSD with a separate High Energy Coil, so I'm curious as to what your setup is. Anyhow, it will take minutes to rule out the coil and it is often the case. A friend of mine with a 6 cylinder 90's Ford was getting sort of stranded with an intermittent loss of power over 2,000 rpm and having to limp along, watched my video, tried the coil, and solved it. Let me know how it goes.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad you found it helpful. I have a related video for termite damaged studs. I recently replaced the remaining rotted 10 ft, more studs, and siding (finally with a nail gun). I'm currently working on a big project building a balcony. Taking a long time due to schedule and weather, but will be posting it sometime soon. Go to my channel home and look around. I do vehicles, vintage electronics, Route 66 Travel in my 74 Cutlass. All kinds of stuff.

Hi. Thanks for watching. It's an 83 carbureted 302 XLT Supercab AOD Trans. If you go to my channel home you'll find a vast collection of videos including engine building, trans rebuilding, the twin tanks, brakes, all kinds of stuff.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Yes, you are correct. The hotter spark is blue. I mis-spoke. It's visible to the naked eye, but on camera they look the same. Thanks again for watching. Hope this video solved your problem if you were having these symptoms. It has helped quite a few people.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. You can jump another in with some clip leads and know instantly if it is a weak coil. Mine has the slide on terminals so its a quick connection. If they're held on with nuts then it takes a few more mins to jump it in. Just make sure at least one lead is fully removed if jumping another one in to see if that's the problem. Let me know if it was the coil.

Hi. Yes, I should have put that in the video. I'm looking for the receipt now. When I find it I'll reply again with it and pin it in the comments and put it in the description. Might take me a day or so. I think the place was in Columbus MS. Anyhow I'll get back to you with the exact info. Thanks for watching.

Hi thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Actually not really on the re-cap. If you'll notice I did actually start to do so. You'll see two of the Big Caps in the power supply have been changed and a few others. They were all spot on regarding their MFD value and no signs of leaking. It's not really worth the trouble. Caps from the late 70's to present honestly rarely fail. It's a huge job. They're glued in. I probably spent an hour getting one of those big ones out to break the glue and the giant puddle of solder they're soldered in with. The PC Paths/Traces are very delicate on these and easily break and lift. Most vintage stereo shops quit doing re-caps. Just not worth the time, and the potential to insert new problems. When I do stuff from the 60's or older, anything with tubes, and multi section metal caps I replace all of those and of course all the Wax, ceramic disks, mica, etc caps. Check out my channel. I've got several vintage big tube console videos, several on this Kenwood, and lots of other stuff like engine and transmission building, major home repair etc.

Hi. Thanks for watching and asking. It's actually well over 2 years now. I drive it everyday plus long trips of 300 miles or more. Zero issues. No Leaks. Runs great! The truck mileage just rolled over 600,000 miles. Just put a heater core in it. It's my latest video. Rebuilt the AOD Trans in the Spring. Go to my channel home and you'll see all the videos. Better yet, Subscribe and you'll always know what's going on. ;-)

You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful.

Wow. That's so cool that you actually went to work for RS. Little did I know when I got this as a Christmas gift from my Mom and Dad that all these years later I'd hear from "The boy on the box"! It's like I've known you all my life. Your picture has been ever present in my life since the late 60's. If you go to my channel home I have a video about all the items on the shelf behind me in that thumbnail image. On it is a 9V Radio Shack battery. I've since also added my Archer Space Command Walkie Talkies with the Morse Code Key Pad and Morse Code on the front to the shelves. I'm taking that your name is Neil. I'm Mike. So nice to meet you.

Hi. Yes. It solved the no shifting. Meant to do a closing to confirm that, but just wanted to get the video added. I'll pin a comment and also add it to the description. No shifting can also be caused by valve body issues and accumulators, but if the governor is as loose as mine, this is a good first item to inspect, and the easiest. Takes about an hour to 1.5 hours start to finish on the ground. Quicker with a lift. Hope it solves your problem too. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glad the video mostly helped. There are one or two O Rings in the top under the Deflector which could indeed be a secondary leak. You could take them out one at a time and see if the leak gets worse and that would kind or point to them. There's also one down low on the outside of the cylinder. The seal around the piston is a Scarf Seal basically acting as piston ring, so that one is not in play. I don't know the air path through it, but the one (or two) up type I'd say are the most likely suspects. If there's a good AC Supplier or shop where you are or a Diesel/Hydraulic Supplier or Shop near you, or a real mom and pop auto parts store (not Autozone etc lol) you could call around and see who's willing to let you come by with your old ones and match them up while waiting on the others to arrive or if you haven't ordered them. There's nothing special about them. There's probably a kit that has them all in there that might ship quicker.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Wow, That's awesome on the disk brake conversion. Been contemplating that for mine. Did you put later model Toro disks and calipers up front? Did you do all 4 corners and something aftermarket? I'm going to put some sort of electric headlight actuators up front. I need to get back on this project. If you look at all my videos on my channel you'll see I've been quite busy with other projects. Want to do another Route 66 Trip in 2026 which is the 100th Anniversary of Route 66 plus USA's 250th Birthday and want to do it in my 66 Toro. You'll see on my channel I did OK to AZ in my '74 Cutlass Supreme. Let me know the details on your Toro Disk Conversion.

Hi. Well, now you have a good connection and as a bonus, a rebuilt carb. lol Thanks for watching and commenting.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I generally help people right here through the comments which in turn helps others. Carbs are simple and fun to tinker with. TV (Throttle Valve) pressure is very important in an AOD. I purposely set mine really wrong on a failing transmission to see what would happen and it burned up the direct clutch in a few miles. Do you have an AOD? Is it Rod or Cable Controlled?

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glad you enjoyed the video. That's cool that your first car was a '74 Cutlass. Also cool you watch some of the same RUclipsrs. I have another video just on the Tecopa Fund Raiser and meeting Wonderhussy, and several more on each state in my '74 Cutlass along Route 66. Have several more to edit and post on Vegas, Hoover Dam, Sedona, Grand Canyon. Been busy with the truck and doing major structural repairs on my house, so haven't edited those yet, but they're "Coming Soon". Go to my channel home and you'll see all the Cutlass and Route 66 videos. Hopefully I've earned your subscription. ;-)

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Yes, I am familiar with the Huhn Solutions kits. Probably the best. I've spoken with him and he seems to be a straight up guy. Was going to use them but given the age and milage of my vehicle and all the labor hours to put inserts in 16 head bolt holes, replace gaskets, sensors, tensioners, and the high margin for leaks when done it just wasn't worth my time. In my case I would have had a 20 year old mini van with 250,000 miles that on it's best day would only be worth $1,200 max. Just wasn't worth fixing it. I actually did a 6 part series on the engine as I was trying a work around solution that just didn't work, but it was fun trying. Go to my channel home and you'll see all the other related videos all in a row. I might even have a playlist for them. I ultimately junked it for $500 and used the money to put AC in my truck which is another video. Every Aluminum block engine made by anybody will ultimately fail as they don't have steel inserts as they should as everything in aviation does. It's bult in obsolescence. If the head bolts didn't come loose, these things would run 500,000 miles.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. With those low readings, I'd say that coil is effectively shorted.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thanks the secondary reading jumps from 1 ohm to 6 ohms on 3 different test I reckon coil is shorting out

Hi again. For what it's worth, ohmming out a coil (actually a transformer full of oil for cooling) is somewhat of an exercise in futility. A baseline rule of thumb is the primary to secondary resistance ratio is 1:100, but that varies by application. In the 1960's - 70's you could for the most part swap coils between Ford/GM/Chrysler within types that used Internal or External additional in line series resistance. When cranking/starting, full 12 volts was applied to the coil. When the key went to Run it switched in a series Ballast resistor and dropped the voltage across the coil to about 9VDC. Running straight 12VDC to the coil will burn it out. On the other hand if you switch to a Pertronix Flame Thrower and Electronic Module to eliminate the points, it does require 12VDC at the Coil. So getting back to the "Futility of checking resistance", the resistance range coupled with the 1:100 ratio that your coil is reading 0.4 Ohms on the primary could theoretically be "good" if the secondary reads 400 ohms. Since yours is reading 4ish Ohms on the Secondary that does indicate a shorted secondary. Basically Ohmming the coil checks continuity. To know for sure, just swap it. Even if a coil checks "good" via resistance, the Ohmmeter is a low level static test. It's running a very low current through it and low voltage across it which can't detect insulation breaking down and windings shorting at 12,000 Volts.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Nice you've got an 83 with a 351. It's not the coil. Sounds like a vacuum leak or you're missing a cylinder which a high idle will mask and can also be caused by a vacuum leak. Your curb/base idle could also be set too low or mixture too lean. Cup your hand over the carb when you kick it down. If it picks back up it indicates too lean of a mixture which can either be a vacuum leak or your mixture setting. Check all your vacuum lines. My guess is they're old, so probably cracked. I'd plug them all coming from the carb including the Booster and PCV valve and see what it does. Your Booster could have a bad diaphragm and be leaking. If the issue goes away it's a bad hose or whatever the hose feeds has a leak. There's probably a vacuum tree on the back of the manifold that feeds several accessories like the AC/Heat and EGR Valve. (Oh ya EGR Valve could be stuck open). Some of those ports are extra and have rubber caps which will rot and fall off. Make sure every port is plugged. Point an infrared thermometer at each exhaust port on the exhaust manifold. If a cylinder is dead it will have a much lower temp. A vacuum leak on an intake runner that feeds that cylinder will cause it to lean out and not hit. If the throttle bushings are worn you'll also have a leak that's hard to find. Wiggle the throttle linkage lever. If it moves around it's worn and leaking. Let me know what you find out.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Coils are not repairable. They're also filled with oil for cooling, of which old vintage ones had PCB's in them. A weak coil will also cause the exhaust to have the same nasty smell as when a gasoline engine "Diesels" when cut off and continues to run "very badly". It's similar to dieseling as the spark is so weak the fuel mixture barely ignites from the spark. It's quick, cheap and easy to see if it is indeed a weak coil and resolve the issue or rule it out and take a close look at carburation (I think your model is carbureted) and or ignition.

Thank you

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You could re-sleave, but there's nothing special about an 80's 302. It's labor intensive, and not many shops around these days that can do it. Cheaper/easier to find another block. If it was an old Chrysler 392 Hemi or Chevy 348 Olds 350 etc you'd sleeve it. These blocks are everywhere. Thanks again for watching and asking.

Hi. Ya, I initially saw that, and it makes sense they would have that set up like that especially from a speedy step during installation like those pesky spring clip quick connects for the lines. The bottom pan on this one was sealed or stuck and didn't look like it was going to come apart w/o a fight and saw I could get in from the top as that was barely glued. Maybe whoever was on the line the day this was built got a bit busy with the glue and glued the bottom on too. LOL Anyhow thanks for the tip that could save others some time. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. This is one of my first videos and both this and Part 2 are amongst my Top 10 highest viewed videos. Thanks again.

Hi. Thanks for watching. For right now I'll call it the "Parking Brake" or "Emergency Brake Actuator Lever". I'll look and see if I can find an IPB (Illustrated Parts Breakdown) to confirm the name. These vehicles generally refer it as an Emergency Brake. Honestly, that part is probably made of "unobtainium" as in you won't find it as a new or replacement part and will probably have to scour the junkyards. Keep in mind that if this is a 80's Ford F150 you're doing, there are two sizes of rear drums, 10 and 11". That lever may be different between the two sizes.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 already been down the 10inch 11th road I’m mailing 10inch drums back today. Why do you reckon they made two different sizes?

Hi. Not sure. Might have been an option for towing. Somewhere I have an old Ford Brochure that might list it. Remember you have 11" rear Drums when you go to do your front disk brakes. They have two different front calipers that depend on what size rear drums you have. Anyhow if you follow my video you'll have great brakes, but you need to get that lever in there. If you have the one for the other side google that part number. The PN for the one you're missing is probably one number off to give you something to start searching for on line and you'll stumble into it. Some on Ebay probably has a loaded Backing Plate with it in there. If it's an 80's truck it will start with E. They used the same brakes for decades so it could start with a D from the 70's. Mine's an 83, so specific 83 parts on mine will be E3. They started with the letter A in the 40's and each Decade goes up a Letter.

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it was helpful.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. The symptoms are leaning in that direction after going through the fuel pumps unless of course the 12V to the pumps is dropping out due to corrosion or a relay letting go. Getting back to the coil, that is a typical symptom of a weak/failing coil breaking down, and it's quick to rule out. A friend of mine with a late 80's (might be 88) F150 was experiencing similar intermittent symptoms and had been through the fuel system watched this video and scratched his chin with a Hmm, swapped out the coil, and got rid of the problem. Again can't say for sure your problem is the coil (could be ECM) but it's cheap enough and quick enough to try to either fix it or rule it out. I by training generally don't shotgun try things hoping to fix it. I measure, inspect, determine the cause, then replace or resolve whatever it is. There are instances though when a symptom is so intermittent or specific that w/o having fuel pressure gauges, HV probes measuring coil output, scopes reading ignition signals while under actual use (most of which is impractical) that you have to resort to "trying something" that could reasonably be the cause. Let me know.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. That's sounding more like air/fuel mixture with the carb which when cold is controlled by the choke. Couls also be a vacuum leak after the throttle valve. If it smooths out cupping your hand over the carb, there's a vacuum leak. Weak will generally start ok-ish, although the one I showed was getting slow to start. If the bike is ok once it warms up, it's mixture. The weak coil will drop out consistently at the same speed/rpm under load and come back if you let off.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thank u sir for the reply.will check all once again

Hi again. Not exactly sure, but suspect something like that. I think it's frequency related which affects the "Reactance". Higher RPM = Higher Frequency. An automotive coil is actually a Step Up transformer with a Primary and a Secondary and is a Reactive Component with "Reactance" (resistance that's only present when subjected to AC) which varies with frequency: XL=2piFL. XL is Inductive Reactance, pi = 3.14, F= Frequency, and L=Inductance measured in Henries. From the formula you see that Reactance is directly proportional to Frequency in an Inductor (Indirectly in a Capacitor). AC is simulated in an automobile with a pulsing DC. When the DC is applied, and then removed, the back EMF induces a voltage in the secondary which has more windings greatly stepping up the voltage. If the insulation on the windings which is a thin chemical coating breaks down, it shorts between windings while operating. The coil will ohm out ok since the Ohmmeter is applying very low DC. The resistance range to check a coil, both primary and secondary is wide. Unless the coil is open or shorted checking it with an ohmmeter is not conclusive. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment.

Hi. I think you're referring to how the spark looked. Ya on camera after I played it back they look the same which was disappointing. In person directly viewing there was a noticeable difference, but in the end one coil is good, and the other breaks down. Fun Fact: As far as what your eye vs a cell phone camera sees, did you know you can use the camera to tell if a Remote Control is working? Look through your camera screen while pointing the remote at it with a button pushed. If the remote is working you'll see quick faint light pulses. Must be frame rate etc. Can't see it with the naked eye. Thanks for watching. Peace.

Hi. You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I ran a restoration shop so it drum brakes all day every day. They're very simple and yet misunderstood. The wheel cylinders and not bleeding your brakes are the Achillies Heel of drum brakes. Need to bleed them at least once a year, even more if it sits to get the moisture out. DOT 3 fluid retains moisture. Wheel cylinders are generally the lowest spot which is where water goes just like in oil/gas. The water displaces the brake fluid and shrinks the rubber cups in the wheel cylinders and they leak. Once that happens it drips down inside the drum and saturates the shoes which will them fuse themselves to the drums and lock the wheels. Take a look at the video I did on my Olds Toronado and what happens and how to get out of that situation. Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. It was a great event. Hope to be doing it again soon. They have another similar one planned for Nov 2nd. Not sure if I can make that one, but will aim for next Spring if they do it again. Did the trip in my 74 Olds Cutlass on Route 66 starting in Oklahoma with the whole trip originating from Atlanta. If interested, I have many several videos on the trip if you go to my channel home. Still more to edit and load. Hoping to have my 66 Olds Toronado finished for the 100th Anniversary of Route 66 and 250th USA Anniversary in 2026. Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching. Late 70's - early 80's Transitional Period, Cast Iron Engine, SAE. If it was the engine or directly bolted to the engine, SAE. If it bolted to something that bolts to the Engine, Metric. Trans, Metric, Engine to Trans SAE. Trans to Mount SAE. Rear End SAE. Anything on the body or bolts to the body, Metric. Once engines switched to Aluminum, Metric. I worked in aviation, and everything, even if made in Europe was SAE. That might have changed now. IDK. No longer in that industry and relieved not to be as it's just not fun any more. Over 7/8 or maybe an inch, Metric and SAE wrench sizes are the same, but very few bolts are that big. Factory bolts that have a raised rim around the head from that mixed era are quite often Metric. Different Foreign manufacturers might use all Odd or All Even Metric sizes, so 13, 15, 17, 19 etc MM, or 10, 12,14 etc while some use every damn size 10,11,12,13,14 etc. Used to be able to fix 90% of everything with just 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, not anymore, plus better have all the Torx, and Allen sizes.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Is this an older ignition system that uses an External Resistor? What is the Key Position when you measure at the coil? Older systems prior to HEI Electronic Ignition put 12VDC across the Coil Primary with the key turned all the way to Start/Crank with the Starter Engaged. Once you bring the Key back to Run, the Voltage at the Coil is approximately 9VDC, so if you're measuring at the Coil with the Key in Run it would Normally read 9 VDC. What is the Year/Make/Model/Engine? What type of ignition? Points or Electronic? When you have no High Voltage Spark out, first thing to check is that you have a pulsing 12VDC in to the Coil. The Coil is a Step Up Transformer which requires an Alternating Current (AC) going in to function. Collapsing Felds in the Primary induce a Magnetic Field into the secondary which has more windings and steps it up over 20KV. Since a Car is DC, a pulsing DC (On/Off) in the primary as the result of Points opening and closing or a magnetic pickup into a control module produce a pulsing DC from the Distributor to the Coil. If you have points, its easy to visually (and Audibly) test this. With Cap off and Coil output grounded grab the rotor and rotate wiggle it back and forth. IT will only move a little against the advance. If the Distributor cam is close enough to allow the points to open and close, and the points are properly gapped you'll see and hear a little crackle when they open. With electronic you wont see anything, in the Dist, but will hear a pop and see a spark if you have the coil wire positioned close to the manifold. Let me know what you have and the results of what you try.

@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thanks for replying, my car is a 1984 rover sd1 2300. With the key turned fully but not turning over im getting 9 volt I've check for a spark but nothing I thought was the ignition coil so bought a new one but still nothing coming from coil even thought 9 volts to it so I'm kinda stumped

That car has Electronic Ignition, so the Ignition Module in the Distributor is what creates pulses to the coil. It's also a Lucas Electric which on it's best day is the worst system. I'm assuming that by 84 they were running Negative Ground. Lucas (British Cars) ran a Positive Ground possibly into the 70's. The Coil with the Key on puts a steady hot to the Pos side. You should be reading from the Pos side of the Coil to the Intake or some unpainted ground on the Engine. Don't read across the coil. In Run the Hot side of the coil would typically read 9VDC if it has an external Resistor. The Neg Side of the Coil is what get's the make/break pulse from the ignition module in the Distributor. It's highly likely that the Ignition Control Module in the distributor is bad. I can't guarantee it w/o directly troubleshooting it. There may be info online as to how to ohm out and check the module to confirm it's bad. You'll have to order that module on line. No one will have that locally.

Hi. Thanks for watching. I'll have to see if I still have that bad coil. Generally I have found that unless the windings are either shorted or open, that ohming it out is not a definitive check. The resistance range for an acceptable coil is wide and for the primary very low ohms. It lets you know you have a ratio of resistance from primary to secondary and that it will step it up. If it's breaking down under higher rpm it will still Ohm out ok and have you chasing fuel problems that aren't there. I'll see if I still have it and if so I'll put the readings in a subsequent comment. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment.

Hi. Thanks for watching. Very possible. Takes seconds to jump another one in to see. See if you can find one in junk yard for $5. New ones are $30. If it's HEI Electronic Ignition you'll need that type of coil. If it's points, a lower output coil, which in 2024 you're not going to find in a junkyard. Since you said it's running rich it's likely the fuel pump is putting out too much pressure. Measure it. Should be 5 - 6 PSI. Anything over is too much for the needle/float. I have numerous videos on this. Go to my channel home and you'll find them. Let me know.

Hi. Not sure why you would think that, but if I still have it, if you pay the shipping I'll send it you and you can see for yourself. ;-) It will start breaking down around 20 mph before the trans shifts to 2nd.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad it helped.

Hi. Thanks for watching and takin the time to comment. Wow! That's an awesome story. So glad you were able to find the actual one your parents originally had and get it back. That's so cool. I see you've commented on Part 3, so go to my channel home and find the first two videos in the series which will be right before this one. Those will take you through the re-capping which you'll have to do, and quite a few of the old carbon resistors will have changed in value and need replacement. The new resistors and capacitors will be much smaller, but if you've ordered the correct values (ohms and wattage on the resistors and microfarads and working voltage on the caps) go ahead and put them in. I didn't do the silver-mica caps that are built into the IF cans as they're so delicate and it's a lot of work. The radio does drift, so it does need them, but for now I live with retuning it every so often. You'll need some control cleaner for the pots like De-oxit. Get a schematic. I did mine with a "Sort Of" schematic I did screen shots of small pics I found on line and got by with it, but having the actual Service Manual will make it much easier. I'll find the contact info for where to get the manual and put it in a follow up comment. It might be in the comments for series I did on the Capehart Panamuse which was my other grandmother's radio. I still have the turn table to do in the Stromberg and the Capehart so there'll be videos on that at some point. Anyhow, keep me posted, and if you have any questions, let me know here in the comments and I'll do my best to help you out.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 I have seen the other videos already, and I sure do thank you for the help!! Let you know!

ok, cool. I sourced most of my parts (caps/resistors/tubes) from Tube Depot and Digi-Key and have all the part numbers. It would be brutal to type them all into the comments. Just for security I don't post my email in the comments as it's my full name, but if your RUclips handle has an email, I'll take pics of the invoices and send them to you, or if you have an anonymous email you can post it here. I actually need different caps for the .01 mfd @600VDC. Thought I got the ones that were shielded on one end and they're not, but just so I can keep track of what end should be shielded, especially for coupling, I put a fake Sharpie stripe on what should be the shielded end. Make sure and get the Orange Drops that are shielded on one end and check them with a scope. They'll show all the ambient noise one way and not the other. Turns out the stripe they put on them is not always and quite often on the wrong end. Mr Carlson's Lab (dude is next level) has a good video on this. I'd replace the power cord with a polarized cord and have Neutral going to ground so you don't have to rely/worry about the infamous Death Cap.