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@freedomforever3375 it was Riverside International Speedway in West Memphis, Arkansas

Get in it and show him how it's done Lips

@Romulan112 The nut is what the main screw turns against. If that's unclear take a look at the parts breakdown and instructions in the product downloads on the Astro Pneumatic website. www.astrotools.com/product/heavy-duty-hub-drum-and-rotor-puller-kit/

It would, but this was a front wheel, so no emergency brake to consider.

@@damonlinkous One of those "some people" was me. Ha!

Thanks for the update glad it worked out for you...just ordered one for myself.

Good catch, I must have removed them, but can't remember why now.

Probably so when the drum pops loose it doesn't come off the lugs, fall, and break your toes or foot or hit you in the shins, that's all. Probably just takes one lug nut to keep it on there.

I think you are right. Probably a bad idea to wrap your fringers between the tool and the drum. Luckily this one was forced off fairly smoothly once it started moving. There was a tremendous amount of force applied before it started moving though and could have been a more explosive release.

@@damonlinkous i know i was cringing. Just thinking I've played this game before and i got lucky too.

@@damonlinkous - That's how it was with mine tonight. Drum rusted to the hub. Quite a bang when it let go. Just left one of the lug nuts on there a few threads to solve the threat problem, but it never made it that far.

No, the drums on the 67 Camaro don't have adjuster access in the back plate. The drums do have knockouts for adjuster access on their face, but they hadn't been opened. Afterwards I did take out the knockouts and install rubber plugs so access would be available in the future.

I don't think so. But I bet you could shade tree it with some heavy gauge flat stock and some grade 10 bolts and nuts. Might take a little fab work too. If you don't have the skills and torch already, probably just worth it to buy this tool. I found it to be well worth it. There are slightly cheaper alternatives like OTC, and I think NAPA has a similar tool rental item.

why is chinesium weak?

@@lordjaashin why do clouds piss on us?🤣🤣

@@lordjaashin - Keep laughing oh foolish one. You've been demanding cheap Chinesium from your elected representatives for the past four decades, and they've been laughing with your money all the way to the bank while our jobs have been sent overseas or automated with the low grade raw materials that come back the other way. You reinforce this with every trip to Walmart. And before you blame Democrats or Republicans, they're both guilty. Conservatives more so, with their focus on corporate profits over labor rights, but Democrats are certainly no innocents on this.

@papa_bits Thanks for letting me know, I really thought it was.

Sorry I missed this comment before. If you know nothing about the history of the car and engine it can be difficult. There are several things you can check to be pretty sure. For a small block chevy in a Camaro: 1. Check the block pad stampings. That stamp shows: Engine Plant, Engine Assembly Date, and the application for that engine. For instance, my pad stamp is V0206ME which means 327 2bbl engine built in Flint Michigan on February 6th to be put into a 1967 Camaro with an automatic transmission and no smog pump. A lot of information on a few stamped letters and numbers! 2. Once you have that info check the casting date of the engine block. That is located nearly below the distributor on the back side of the block against the firewall. It can be hard to read due to a lot of oil and dirt collecting on top of it. Clean it off and you'll find a date code. Mine is A317 which means the block was cast January 31, 1967. The block casting date will always be earlier than the engine assembly date for obvious reasons. The casting date is usually pretty close, mine is 6 days before the assembly date. 3. Compare the dates in 1 and 2 to the build date of the car from the cowl tag of the car. Since the engine had to be assembled and ready to be installed in a car the cowl tag date should be after the engine assembly date. (Usually less than 30 days apart with exceptions) The cowl tag build date on my car is 02B which translates to the second week of February. So that goes well with the February 6th engine assembly date. NOTE: All of that can show that the engine is CORRECT for the car, but not that it is the actual assembly line original engine. (At least for 1967 Camaros) . Since I bought the car completely stock in 1975 with 50,000 miles, when combined with checking the numbers I can be confident it is the actual original engine. NOTE 2: For 1967, the engine pad in item 1 does not also have the VIN number stamped. The 1968 and 1969 models did, with some exceptions. So having having the VIN stamp would help ID an original 68 or 69 engine. NOTE 3: Most of the above info I learned from the Camaro Research Group website at camaros.org/drivetrain.shtml#PadStamps

You are right, not the regulators fault. My mistake. ISSUE WAS: At the regulator I had purchased a straight swivel to make installing the hose easier. It was labeled 3/8" Male Pipe x 3/8 Female Pipe Swivel 1/32 Restricted In the store, I saw the word restricted but didn't know what that meant, so I did a quick google on my phone and thought I found that restricted simply meant it wouldn't swivel after it is tightened. WRONG Means exactly what it says, the opening inside was only 1/32". So a trip to return that one and a trip to a different store and install the correct one, everything works! No leaks, full pressure!

Glad to hear that. Mine liked to drove me crazy trying to figure it out . I was like you thinking it was the new regulator but everyone said it was the pressure regulator on the compressor. I just like to check everything and that was all it took. Glad it's all good now.

Cool story bro. ;-)

www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Drum-Rotor-Puller/dp/B01JBIU7F4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ASTRO+78830&qid=1591808167&sr=8-1

under $140

What if like my car there is no access to the adjuster screw inside the drum....

The drums on this 67 Camaro didn't have any access holes either in the backing plate or the drum itself. Once I had them off the car I found there were the knockouts in the face of the drums, so I knocked those out with a cold chisel and have added rubber caps. Now I'll be able to make adjustments if needed.

@@nightstorm9128 Then you force them off like I did. :-)

According to Google translate you said "The handbrake is not released, of course it can’t be taken off". Dude, no handbrake on a 1967 Camaro, and anyway this is the front drivers side wheel, no e-brake up front.

@billsmith Worse than a ridge the drums were rusted together with both the hub face between the studs and the metal parts of the brake shoes. The drums were fine after having them turned.

Thanks for the tip! Makes sense, I did it this way because other videos showed horizontal and so do the instructions. The other issue was trying to get the points of the arms between the brake drum and the backing plate at the same time lining up the center screw on the crown nut.

@@damonlinkous a friend suggested a bar clamp to hold the puller against the drum... thats when we tried hooking one on the top. Let gravity help.

Worked for then first rotor then on the second it exploded and the rotor didn’t budge....be careful when using this tool

@@toddpollock4552 😲😳😱

@@PelicanPines You can also use a ratchet strap around the tool to help hold it in place.