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I've always used Servisol.

Thanks much😊😊

I just asked deep seek The best deoxidizing cleaning agent for a potentiometer this is the answer I got **Caig DeoxIT D5**. Here's a concise breakdown of why it stands out and some alternatives: ### **Top Recommendation: Caig DeoxIT D5** - **Functionality**: Combines a solvent, deoxidizing agent, and lubricant to clean, remove oxidation, and protect contacts. - **Safety**: Safe for plastics and delicate components, non-conductive, and leaves a protective film to prevent future oxidation. - **Application**: Spray directly into the potentiometer, rotate the knob to distribute, and let dry. Ideal for restoring smooth operation and longevity. - **Pros**: Widely trusted in professional and audiophile communities for its effectiveness and residue-free evaporation. ### **Alternatives** 1. **MG Chemicals Super Contact Cleaner** - Similar to DeoxIT, with deoxidizing properties and lubrication. A cost-effective alternative. 2. **CRC QD Electronic Cleaner** - Quick-drying, non-residue solvent. Effective for general cleaning but lacks deoxidizing agents; best for light oxidation. 3. **High-Purity Isopropyl Alcohol (90%+)** - Budget-friendly and effective for dirt removal. Less effective on heavy oxidation but safe for most materials. ### **Key Considerations** - **Avoid WD-40**: Standard WD-40 leaves residue and is not designed for electronics. - **Application Tips**: Use a precision nozzle to reach internal contacts. Rotate the potentiometer repeatedly during cleaning. - **Safety**: Ensure proper ventilation due to flammability of solvents. ### **Final Verdict** DeoxIT D5 is the gold standard for its balanced cleaning, deoxidizing, and protective properties. For lighter issues or budget constraints, isopropyl alcohol or MG Chemicals are viable alternatives. Always test on a small area first to ensure material compatibility.

This helped me so much. Thank you for sharing!

Excellent demonstration and explanation. Thank you!

This advertisement for Deoxit brought to you by Stuart (who likely is just panicking that he may have destroyed numerous pots/potentiometers/sliders and is just trying to convince himself he's not done so)

Hello. I would like to ask if you know by a chance - which of the 12AX7 tubes is for clean and which one is for overdrive? I have a stage 100 MKIII and I believe it's core design is similar to the original. I have issues with my clean channel (newest video on my channel), and I would like to know which of two tubes to replace (if the issue is with the tube in the first place).

You apparently haven't bothered to read the info on the Caig website.

It's Jan 30, 2025, and I'm looking at a can of D5 I bought a few years ago, and it actually does say that it's OK to use it on potentiometers.

I have a jcm800 4210 with the opposite problem, I find it's too dark and the low mids! I've always wondered if that was normal

I have a jcm800 4210 with the opposite problem, I find it's too dark and the low mids! I've always wondered if that was normal

A 22nF 400v polypropylene cap was the source of the rumble I had...hope this saves someone some hours

You have a great way of explaining things!

He could have just used 10m cable (like you would use on stage) and saved himself time, money and preserved amps value. 10m cable does wonders to JCMs.

Oddly enough, my HRD caps drop down to under 26V within a few seconds of turning the power off and unplugging it. I tested it 5 or 6 times. 26 volts or less almost instantly.

Well I already have a channel switching problem on mine and it's 5 months old. Smh. It will turn More Drive on but it won't switch to drive. And the Bright switch doesn't work, either. Tbh, it looks like the switches move too much, like they have dry solder joints that broke. There's no burning on the board. I barely play more than 20 mins at a time and never leave it running more than 20 or 30 minutes at a time. There's no discoloration. Ugh. This sucks.

Ha! Watched with interest after seeing this amp for sale second hand. I wonder if those transformer proximity issues were designed in as part of the "pawn-shop" aesthetic, maybe even the grounding badge passed QA for the same reason. Anyhow, I know to ignore the second hand listing now. Given our proximity, it might even be this very amp…

The answer for people who argue and claim it doesn’t work is to say provide the proof or evidence that supports your claim or shut up

i sure wish you had documented the repair you completed on that BJiii - i suspect i am having the same issue and have runaway voltage blue OT with burning hot tubes 😮

thank-you for your common sense approach. i appreciate it!

So interesting. I was just about to pull the trigger on one of these. I know you recommended the Blues Junior but I hate the way they sound. Do you think a Cub Super 12 is a bad or unreliable amp to buy?

Excellent video. Thanks a lot. What are your thoughts on the ESR meters available for leakage tests in circuit ? As you will know, they use a signal to determine the value of equivalent resistance.

Great video. Thinking of building my first tube amp, and this was just what I needed.

I have this amp and for some reason the effects loop just stopped working. Might be looking for a new amp (Probably not Marshall).

Fantastic real life Tech fixing an AC15! Very informative & practical, thank you Stuart!

I can't get the effects loop to work on my orgin 50. The effects pedal is plugged in and nothing.

I have had one of these SR2100 Twin Reverb amps for a few years now, recently developed a hum. As I am a retired technician I will fix it. I find it fairly easy to work on. Additionally when you adjust the tone controls it does not sound thin and puts out the same DB levels as most 100 watt amps. Again you have to turn down treble and middle.

I always love when he puts up the diagrams. I can follow those. I tried spelling schematics, and it looked wrong. Getting oldi guess.

That is probably the coolest marshall amp head ever !

Very well done man, thank you much for your efforts for the community.

Thanks for posting this. Followed right along and it was super easy, thanks to you. Much appreciated, Stuart! My plate voltage came in at 438v, which was surprising because most people on the internet says Rockerverbs are 390-400v. I messed with the 'hum balance' pot as well and didn't hear any differences as I rotated the pot

Thanks , I always enjoy these videos.

Thanks Stuart - Great rationale for taking these jobs! This is the kind of repair that you can do on old receivers as well. Helpful to rule out the simple stuff first - very valuable content. Presentation is top notch as always too.

Did my ears hear you right £350 plus vat for that job?

Your videos saved me a few quid few months ago. Powered up jcm800 and hardly any volume even when cranked. Turned out to be the input jack needed cleaning. Being a sealed socket I sprayed contact cleaner thru front. Thought it dried, turned on amp and heard a pop from inside head. Panicked. Too chassis out and nothing blown. Turned out I didn’t leave it long enough for fluid to dry. Wish they still sold them burnishing jack plugs which had a fine grit to them for cleaning sockets.

Great informational vids you create. Thank you

Hi Stuart, which fuse do I need for my BD Western Noir UK? The one you can unscrew manually round the back somewhere to replace the fuse...cheers.

Thanks for your videos Stuart. I definitely enjoy them. I like your approach. It's very interesting to see different people's approach to repair.

What a great video so helpful, thank you. I have this amp and I will be doing this myself from now on. Do you find these amps quite noisy (hum / hiss) on the gain channels in general? Mine seems to do that but the output of volume is powerful still. Just wondered if it is the nature of this amp head.

Interesting....i wonder if they did the same thing with my bassbreaker 007, transformers to close.

The hum level on this amp after the repair is about the same as my bassbreaker 007.

I have a fender bassbreaker 007. These amps have a low tone hum. Its not too loud, but still annoying. If you ever get one, it would be appreciated if you take a listen.

The Einstein of amp repairs

These amps come from the factory floor on average, 10mV lower than the 45mV spec. Per valve. This amp needs the higher bias to make it crunch 🤟

A stiffy uppy bit? Priceless 🤟

Another very cool video!! I enjoy every minute watching you repairing these amps!!

Man you have got the best repair videos, thank you

I've had several of the MG series amps. They are pretty rock solid performers and they can get great tones if you exchange the stock speaker for a better quality like a Greenback. The weakest part of the amp is the little fan that cools the power board- change that out for an Orion sealed sleeve bearing fan and you'll have an amp that will rock on for practically forever.

That was great Stuart.Great tips .Many thanks.

Good to see a tech who isn't too precious about the gear he/she works on. That's a good attitude and I wish there were more like you in the business. And that isn't a bad little amp, well worth the trouble to fix even if it has little resale value.