Видео

hmmm that is stange. with the ETI it is a bit harder to guess what the issue could be. does it throw a check engine light when it does? if it doesnt it is likely an issue with the pump. if a hose it loose or has a hole in it between the pump inlet and the fueltank outlet it could be opening up as pressure builds and sucking air in which is killing the pump case pressure not allowing injection pressure to be achieved. id think though that if air is getting it the injectors would need re bleeding and it wouldnt start back up.

@@AndreasPapaxaralambous-o3xThe rd28s came with their own mechanical pump earlier on and this pump is the one that has to be fitted. Could probably use a td pump but you would need it rebuilt with a different governer and retuned to suit the rd28. Has to be rd28 injectors too.

@@rileypoole5276 the Haynes service manual

@@AleemButt-i1y its available for download online somewhere and in the facebook group "rd28 patrol owners"

nah the rd is a comepltely different intake and exhaust since it uses a non crossflow cylinder head

@@ebayenthusiast42 oooh okay, so fit them will need adaptations?

And did the rb25 head fits in rd28 block?

@@matiaslatapiat7152 the manifolds are Pretty much completely different in every way there isnt really any feasible setup that you could use RB manifolds on an RD28 head

@@matiaslatapiat7152 yes the RB series head will fit on an RD block i believe you need to open up one of the head oil ports so it will flow. It will only work as a petrol engine as you won't be able to get a high enough compression ratio for diesel coupled with modifying the head to accommodate injectors into the spark plug holes. There is a video of somebody who has done it but that system is high pressure commonrail injection and you can see it is running pretty wonky without boost at idle.

@@AJ-oj5eu virgin pumps are nice as you have a datum to work from that you know is sweet

1 bar would be a bit high, id try to find one with under 8 psi working pressure. diesel is a bit more viscous than petrol too so a gasoline pump may have issues after extended use.

cheers mate. So many instructional videos these days where it is very clear the person has no idea what they are talking about so im trying to break that trend.

@@ebayenthusiast42 you’re doing great 👍

i solved all the elecrtical dramas by sticking a fully mechincal pump on the engine. its a great upgrade as the ETI pump has lousy throttle pedal feedback and often has dramas with the electronics if any mud or water gets in or around them.

@@ebayenthusiast42 yeah don't want to go there with a new pump plus I'm stubborn :p the MAF voltage is sitting 0.2v higher at idle than stock. This throws the range out. Will rescale to bring it with ECU specs. If that fails it's Unichip X ECU time

if you find the facebook group "RD28 patrol owners" there is a manual in the shared files in the group.

id assume that would be a maf signal issue, if the volts spike the engine will go into a closed loop map which makes way less power as the engine assumes permaiters without taking information from the fam or iat senors.

@@keilfestin4606 nah the pump and holset absolutely loved it. Unfortunately the engine itsself is super old its got so much blowby. Made the decision to put it on hold and get my other build done. Im thinking i might do a swap to a td42 but the big thing will be a cab swap as that one is absolutely rusted out

@@ebayenthusiast42ahh right I just did mine new 11mm mech and holset 200wg made about 170hp but having over heating issues when I went up to bundy and rocky still made it ..I’m thinking it’s head gasket or crack head . Still planning to replace the head and doing a cooling mod of this fails might go TD but then overheating issues again 😅😅😅

​@@keilfestin4606 the TD isnt much of a better engine it is just as old and weighs a tonne. its only two benefits are displacement for useable torque when out of boost and a crossflow head. my RD was usually cool unless it was out on the beach or pulling all the way through 4th and 5th gear. unfortunatly the RD head has poor cooling passage design and suffers from this.

@@abadunam1323 yea mate it doesnt really matter where you go from. Aslong as all the marks line up to the right spot its all sweet

@@ebayenthusiast42 Cheers, thanks man

@@jamessteele5455 sounds like the radiator could be a bit clogged up. Its left for less and right for shite ("shite thats more fuel") on the fuel screw. Try 1/8th of a turn adjustments and see if she keeps overheating. If you have any light bars in the way of the grille id suggest removing them and seeing if it still overheats.

@@ebayenthusiast42 brand new alloy radiator engine has just had 13k spent on it for a rebuild definitely no water issues only gets hot on boost for extended periods

@@jamessteele5455 intresting, id try pulling a bit of fuel out and seeing if it doesnt get as hot. is the turbo water cooled?

@@ebayenthusiast42 water and oil cooled and the oil cooler is water cooled lol

@@CumarDuale youd want to change all the injectors at once as they are flowed and matched so one cylinder doesnt get more fuel than the others and run hotter

@@ryanlogan2911 good tip!

@@mdfarid9689 that doesnt sound right, was your fuel screw sticking as far out as mine was at the end of the video?

@@user-xg6gg5mc4g nah mate providing you line up all the timing marks you can throw the new belt on and it will be sweet.

@@TimLeary-rw3oq still running. It is my daily driver so havent had time to do many vids.

@@ebayenthusiast42 cheers. I got a new head. Gonna run extra cooling line from back of head through welshplug to radiator. Bigger head gasket for lower compression. Mabey drop piston height. More boost

@@TimLeary-rw3oq piston protrusion is fine i wouldnt worry about that. If you wack the thickest headgasket in it will go fine. These engines love boost ive seen people run 40 to 50psi but you are getting to the hit&miss zone then haha.

@@ebayenthusiast42 haha. That’s a bit further than I expected but f yeah. I forget. U running 11 mm in the pump or 8?? My gq won’t no what’s happened!!

@@TimLeary-rw3oq im running an 11mm in mine. With the standard 9mm plunger you wont be able to make much power it would max the stock tb2527 gq turbo to 17 psi and run lean above that.

@@TheRsrunner you need to unplug the cam sensor (sensor in the side of the electric ETI) pump i believe the plug is grey and a 3 wire one. You need to shave it down a little bit and it plugs straight into the crank angle sensor at the bottom of the timing belt.

The ECU is what low sides the glow light on the dash for it to turn on. I only needed that wire so my dash light worked. If you are making up a bypass relay like i did the rest is seperate from the ecu since the ecu acts as the glow timer

im pretty far off implementing my setup got too much on the go right now. it would definitly be a good way to tune some power in without melting pistons.

@@ebayenthusiast42 Sounds like it can have two purposes. I am not after power or performance i'm ok with a 1HZ NZA engine in a big old coaster motorhome cruising. I just thought its a good way to clean the waste veg oil in the engine if it works for that.

if you look at the fuel pin side on you will see the cone is ground offset to one side. That side needs to be put towards the fuel injector lines in order for it to be at the max fuel setting.

@@ebayenthusiast42 Thanks, mine is a Triton so maybe slightly different but it seemed to increase as I oriented the max ramp towards the timing gear.

the only direct bolt on turbo that will fit without change is anothger GT1752s. they make some with a billet compressor wheel (turbochargers australia) was the brand i ran. aparently the cct ones arent good. they will work but if you run more than 17psi they will just be inefficient but still work.

Hey mate. If you message me on my instagram page i can answer any questions. It does depend on the car as all my wiring is to suit the RZN149 hilux sold in australia.

The pump works similar. Inside it before the plunger and hydro head is a vane pump that draws the fuel from the i let hose and builds an initial pressure of diesel. This pressure is regulated by a relief valve. The pressure increases as RPM increases and draws more fuel in. This pressure increase compresses the advance piston and advances the pumps timing internally as rpm and pressure increases. You can fiddle with that setting (not really needed tbh) but you need OEM bosch tooling and a Diesel pump test bench. About $30 000 of equipment.

Happy to help mate. I do not run idle speed increase cable but you need a gas pedal cable. No electronics accept the shutoff solenoid.

If it is all the way up against the bore of the hole it may be bit difficult. Id try sliding a cut out piece of soda drink can down and see if it will get between the pin and the side of the hole. If it does see if you can get a pin or a seal pick down and push it back into its bored hole. If it doesnt want to move and is jammed it may be bent or damaged.

Is the the sequence that the pipes are attached and fitted or the sequence that the injector pump feeds the injectors?

i havent worked on them myself, from what i know they are a great motor though. old style Bosch P pump.

The stuff from the old ETI pump or the GQ mechanical pump?

Yes this has the mechanical GQ pump swap with the bigger plunger swapped over too. Ive done a caveman tune on it and it runs pretty well considering its lugging 35" tyres

Afraid not mate, the RD28eti uses an electronically governed pump. The only way to tune them if with a steinbauer/performance module that wires into the pump.