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Scott Harris
Добавлен 4 июл 2013
Chevy 4.3 New Distrubtor Install / Rotor Allignment Issue - Findings
Had issues installing a new distributor in my 2002 Chevy Blazer 4.3. Rotor not align with the mark in the base, here is my findings as to why. Hope this helps
Просмотров: 370 867
I've spent five years tearing down putting back together every component of the electrical system thinking I had new parts n Everytime failing until I seen this video. Thank you!!!!!!
Thanks a million. Save me a lots of time
Not at all on no1 tdc the pointer will be pointed to the first corner on the distributor on the driver side of the vehicle you will have to put the no6 piston at tdc to use the 6 in the cap
I had replaced the distributor, on a 1995 gmc jimmy 4.3. Or had it done by a mechanic. Is this distributor fixed? Meaning , we'll how do you ajust, to advance or opposite?
Great video I'm fighting this with my astro van 43
Whole lotta dyslexia and not a lot of good information
Bought an ac delco from autozone the other day and I think I have the same problem. The 6 not exactly lined up with the bottom marks. Am I missing something? Thought I got a legit part
Round off square part of hold down bracket with a grinder so you can move the distributior slightly
JUST BUY A NEW DISTRIBUTOR- not a Remanufactured one !!!!
File the hold down bolt hole to a slot, problem solved
GOOD TO KNOW I JUST HAD THAT PROBLEM
Scott, glad you got it fixed. Lots of bad parts nowadays i went through 4 Distrubitor’s till i got a good one.
M . 9[>?>?±
if you're half a tooth off you can remove the roll pin from the cam gear and clock the gear 180 out this gives half a tooth difference. Good idea to shim for .010 end play while you're at it.
I’ve heard of this, but don’t quite fully understand. I’m able to removed the roll pin. Do I just spin the cam gear 180 while holding the wheel at its spot? Meaning the dimple won’t line up with the white line and be on the opposite side?
@@carlomendoza8588 Yes. The gear has an odd number of teeth, so spinning the gear 180* on the shaft will effectively move the shaft 1/2 a tooth. (right at 13*)
THANX
You have to turn your oil pump input to align it with the shank on the bottom of the distributor. I use one of those old tire irons with a wedge tip and tape a camera to it so I can see what I’m doing
had the same issue on my 1997 seirra 1500 and i got but a third unit from the dealer that was offset. finally i took new ones back to the dealer and said for them to shove it up there ass i pulled mine apart my self put in a bushing and pressed it using a bench clamp a hammer and it worked great for 10 more years
If you're gonna make a video informing. People about things to look for when installing a new part. We would really appreciate it if you freaking do a little bit of preparation. And hold the camera still and turn it one way and keep flipping it and trying to show his images on his side. You had good information. But your approach and your. Overall. Video sucked.
Pop the pin out from the gear to the shaft and rotate the gear 180. Problem solved.
Turn the inside where the distributor seats to compensate for it being off this is a simple process
Nope problem is that plastic gear on the old one is worn and it's jumped lol man you should never work on a car again
The only other thing I would try is freeze it and see if it would turn
It is poorly remanufactured parts
Had this problem this week are purchased a eBay distributor ended buying another distributor big Box store auto zone.Lost my money on eBay but I got my truck running with a quality distributor.thank for your video 👍 helped A lot.
Thank you, good job!
Sorry bro you took too long in this video
Great video and to all you cry babies talking shit just keep scrolling no need for the hate !!!
Fuck dude shut thfuck up and get to it
I remove the distributor on my 00 chevy express 3500 5.7 and I put it back right away and now the van rank but do not start. Any help. I will be appreciative it
Ive got c1500 with the 4.3 v6 its running 3 codes po300-po420and po446...i changed plugs -wires- cap-button...it runs great till you try keep it at a certain rpm it still misfiring..any thoughts??
I got the same problem. Distributor not aligned
I got the same problem. Distributor not aligned
Dude,if you don't know what you are doing or talking about, please don't make videos of it until you do know. There is nothing wrong with the new distributors you got. For them to be installed properly you have to align shaft notches accordingly as dictated by instructions for specific vehicle and it seems that you are not doing that.
That's great for your oil pump but what about the cam lobes & valves opening and closing out of sync with the timing of spark?
If the distributor gear is an odd number of teeth and is pinned 180* out you will be half tooth off.
I swapped out the distributor in my step sons 1999 blazer 4.3 yesterday. The problem I ran into and never before removing and installing distributors was the oil pump rotating slightly and the new distributor not seating and throwing the timing off when I did get it to seat into the oil pump. If it wasn`t for the lazy shade tree mechanic in me I would have rolled the motor to TDC before I started the job and screwed the timing up and shortened my escapade. After rolling the motor over to TDC, which is the second timing mark on the balancer aligned to the notch in the timing chain cover, which is in the 1 o`clock position on the timing cover, I quickly realized what was going on and how to correct it. This issue created all the same symptoms described that the dislocated reluctor wheel created in the video. The vehicle started and ran but you could tell the timing was off, and it threw the same code mentioned in the video. After straightening out my lazy induced screw up, and correcting the timing by aligning the marks on the crank, and distributor all is well and running fine. Like I stated early in this reply, I have removed and reinstalled/replaced plenty of distributors, and never, I mean never before have I ever had an oil pump rotate like this one did in this 4.3 and give me problems such as this. Just thought I would put this here as another potential solution to this problem if your distributor checks out and is assembled correctly. BTW I checked mine after this problem showed up and it was assembled correctly, obviously as described in what I have described as my problem. I also read other comments of using home made tools or a screw driver to rotate the oil pump. You can also get it to move by slowly rotating the distributor one tooth at a time pain in the ass but it works.
So all that said the bottom line is they do not make Auto parts worth a damn anymore !!! I have the same engine and I had a similar issue with the poppets on my spider injection they were just a little too big it's hard to find good help LOL
Where did you get these bad distributors?
Please next time try getting to thé point without all those annoying breaks and repeats of thé same info. Thx for bringing this problem to light.
I have a chevy s10 4.3 v6 4x4 2003 and I'm reinstalling my original one. I'm lining it up but can't serm to get it to go back in. When I position it it goes to six but doesn't fall into place (flush). What is my issue? Some say that it might be the oil pump shaft needing to be turned and some say that you have to turn the crank until it falls in. NEED HELP WITH THIS!!!
Can you explain the having the rotor towards 6. I thought it always points to number 1
I'm having this issue. I tried showing my dad and he got frustrated and stated sending me all kinds of links do I ignored him lol. He is a mechanic.
Because the cap spark path goes over to that 6 mark but it’s still on number 1
Was the original problem giving you a rough idle
Just put vise grips with rag well keep dimple showing on shaft then used a grinder wheel Ranch on it and turn it that's what I did use old one as reference or take it back and bring your old one with you to check the new one
quick question did you buy it brand new ? because I am having the same problem with my new distributor I got from auto zone .
Did you figure it out
Crunk won't start
I removed my distributor. Put the new one back EXACTLY in the same place. I didn't do all the TDC and all that crap. Just have to pay attention to where the rotor button is before you take everything off. Vehicle was hard to start. It would run and drive, but would sometimes stall at red lights or when parking. And got the P1345 code. Pulled it back out and put it back in 1 cylinder clockwise... wouldn't start at all. Removed it again and put it one cylinder back from the original location (counter-clockwise). No P1345 and it runs fine. No stalls or misfires... and that was 3 years ago. I bought the distributor online, not from an auto parts store.
Check out this guys solution ruclips.net/video/jw57rPcPyxk/видео.html
Have you tried turning the oil pump to line things up?
This is how you do it ruclips.net/video/Crq3qwGE4d8/видео.html
Buy a brand new, all aluminum distributor that comes with new ign module from Summit.and call it good....because it will be. Guess how I know. Seriously. P/N SUM-850097, $161.99 as of 1/16/20
Thanks