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Am I detecting a Bmore accent? LOL

Good Job Friend!

This is really helpful. Thank you

Beautiful work and instructions.Just to have an idea,what would charge to do this in 80'' by 24'' door?

Aren't you supposed to run your router from left to right so the cutting edge of the bit is hitting the wood first instead of the backside of it , probably where a lot of the shaking is coming from

Thank you very much! Like so many things you do with your hands, it's hard to visualize but so simple once someone shows you how.

I like that tool organizer on the wall at the beginning.

great video, you are a perfectionist looks great

if i was needing something like this made for my house would you make one??

Well, hollow core doors are pretty much junk. We all have them in our homes. Unless you upgrade to solid core this is what we are left with. It’s a shame it’s always about production and money and not quality of the product. The main issue is exactly what you mentioned, the outer perimeter of the door is usually made from a cheap soft wood, pine, or MDF, which is no match for the abuse a door takes on a daily basis. Some people will suggest using a larger screw to bite more of the material. The issue with that is you are not fixing the problem. Eventually that screw will strip out as well. The material you are screwing into is just to soft to hold the screw for any length of time. If you purchase a hardwood dowel,oak, in a larger diameter than 1/4” as I mentioned in the video, you will get even more bite. You can use pretty much any size as long as the hinge will cover it and it’s not right on the edge. 3/8”would work just fine. After you drill it out use a generous amount of wood glue covering the entire dowel. Titebond is your best bet. Once the glue dries it becomes one with the soft wood or MDF. The glue will not fail. Pre drill the hole and use the hinge screws. Don’t use drywall screws. If you want a little added strength you can put CA glue, basically crazy glue, or even a small amount of the wood glue in the hole. An addition option is to add a third hinge in the middle. Most hollow core doors come pre mortised for two hinges. This will distribute the force onto three hinges instead of two. I wish I could say this will solve all your problems but in my experience working on these issues with clients it is the best and cheapest way to fix the issue without taking the door apart, replacing the frame wood or buying a new door. I can say I never had one fail. I hope this helps you a bit more than the video. Good luck!!

Omg. I've lost hope in fix-it ppl. This is the closest video of many to what I've been looking for but some doors are hollow and have NO wood 1 inch in for a background anchor. It's literally nothing. Air. I've used drywall screw inserts over the years to varying success but I've been looking for a professional fix to a door that's hollow. I've cut them off at whatever depth, tapped them in and screwed in the screws and it holds ...sometimes tight, sometimes precariously ...but my wife has knocked off a certain door several times (BPD, no need for more details) and I've fixed it every time but it's maybe beyond another quick fix. I really need ideas how to anchor or build up or something. I'm losing it :)

Looking to do this to my post. Do you take the rails off before you slide the “wrap” over the Newell post?

Great info thank you!

You can add weather stripping behind the seems maybe to help keep light from showing through

You definitely look like a pro, but can you elaborate on "go in til you start to feel solid wood"? It's a hollow door...?

How to fix bent hinge on trailer front door

Did this yesterday , worked well, thanks for the video !

You say nothing about where to set the hinge. How much smaller does the door need to be than the frame to clear?

Thank you

How you put them on did you put over old post

I'm impressed by your craftsmanship and practical approach, but the motion from the camera was difficult to watch for more than a few minutes. I was able to see it all over a few days and I leaned alot.

How much smaller should the door be than the RO?

If you make that swing in, (instead of swing out) you can place the trim over the opening approx 1/2" to 3/4" inch all the way around and you will not see the gap up top or any light if left on. This will allow the door to shut against the trim stopping flush with the opening.

Looks awesome. You’ve given me the confidence to try it! Thanks!😊

Thanks for the video! Very helpful.

This video was awesome. Earned a subscriber

Nice Job!

Thank you for your hard work. What you call those metal parts and your video shown opening out. What if need opening in??? Please reply and thanks

Please you didn't mention what size of drywall screw & plywood size and thanks

This would be so much simpler if it opened inward. Wouldn't need to break up the trim.

Are you putting the new screws to the old hole

Good man, top notch craftsmanship, 👍🔨🇮🇪

Could you tell me how you calculated your side clearances? Like how did you calculate the gap between left jamb of opening and left outside of shelf? Right side of jamb and right outside of shelf?

Great bud but you should recommend a screw driver. Easy for inexperienced peeps to strip out a again using the drill.

👊 Promo`SM

This was so helpful-- I initially thought making the pattern template was overkill, but making my own, found the technique super useful. Precision was key! Thanks for sharing this.

Great video

I am making a double door version, but it will be someones room. I noticed you can see the light through the top with the door closed. Any suggestions on how to eliminate that?

Learned this when I first started and we hand nailed hardwood trim……

Where do you get the wood from for your projects? They don’t have much of a selection at places like Home Depot.

How do you measure the cabinet to the space if the cabinet depth is 8 inches and the bookshelf is 6' by 4' what is the space between the door jam and the cabinet

Would this hinge kit hold a 5ft high by 800mm wide by 7inches deep bookcase ?? Thank you if made with 15mm ply .

I want dimensions on a inswing door.

Currently in this situation, have a hallow core door, tried tooth picks put kept falling in. Will the dowels stay in place or do you think they will fall inside the door also?

Great job on the build and video. Thanks for sharing it. I have some questions about the hinge system. I already purchased these same door hinges, but wonder if there is some sort of formula/"trick" for determining the best placement for the hinge pivot point with this type setup? I saw other videos using these hinges and have also noted personally that the included templates for drilling holes are not precise by any stretch of the imagination! The hinges also don't come with any instructions/information detailing the placement of hinges on your work piece(s). You address this point at about 10:29 in your video, but don't say just how, or where, you determined exact hinge placement. I know that the depth of the shelves. span of the opening, type of hinge, and direction of door swing all have important roles in determining the exact placement of the pivot point but I don't know just how to go about figuring that out. Do you have any insight for that? I'm in the beginning stages of attempting to build a book case with three sections that will take up an entire wall of my small office. The center section will be a door that MUST swing outward (as yours does) and will provide entry into closet/supplies space. I will have a few more issues to figure out too since my door will be at floor level, not elevated as your project was. I'm thinking that I will have to place a "threshold" piece on the floor on which to mount the bottom hinge. The floor is carpeted and I'm debating leaving it and trying to place that threshold piece on top of the carpet with a couple of anchor screws through and into the concrete sub-floor for support(?). I'm considering doing it this way since the bookcase in its entirety is being built against the room wall and outside the current closet doorway which means that the new "door" will not depend on the existing door casing for structural support at all. (*I hope that makes sense. Not sure how to describe the situation any clearer). Thanks again for the video of the fantastic project.

Did you have a video of you building the frame for doorway?

Oh my God, thank you sooooo much. You're the best 😊

Subscribed, quality!

Thank you! I appreciate how you explained everything.

Very nice video. Instead of drilling a hole in the top of the cabinet for the screw driver to go into to lower the bolt, couldn’t you just have the cabinet swung out? So you’d still have to bolt lined up with the hinge, but the cabinet would be open so you could easily access the lowering screw.