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@@dianadom4742 You are very welcome 😀

@@eugenuku You just look into it like you are looking into a microscope and adjust the enlarger focus until you see the grain. You are focusing on the image grain itself. If that doesn’t make sense send me a direct message and I will upload a personal video for you demonstrating it.

Very difficult to do without breaking them. The Flic Pik is the tool that opens the canisters

@@jsollowsphotography I just ordered one so I'll have a chance to evaluate these reusable cannisters

Ok but that won’t help getting the film onto the spool which is the purpose of this video

@@MaximillionPegasuslol You’re welcome!

@@eme_pp You’re welcome

@@eddyhoughton6542 The FTN is definitely worthwhile!! 👍

@jsollowsphotography yeah, I kind of screwed up on the thread - my local store only had linen or polyester, no cotton. I chose linen because it's 100% natural, but once I got the wrapper off I saw it was really hairy! I managed to solve the problem by coating the thread very lightly with adhesive, but I'll definitely put the time in to find some cotton yarn next time. I also had to resort to polyurethane sheets without adhesive backing, it's all I could find, but I managed to get a stick of dry adhesive which has done the trick. There was a slightly tense moment putting in the mirror-bumper with a set of tweezers, though!

@@fil684 Some of the off brand adapters can do that. The original Pentax brand adapters shouldnt have this issue. Having said that it shouldn’t affect operation.

@@jsollowsphotography yes. I saw that the lens still focus property and the light meter still read properly the light coming in

@@hksht It totally depends on the fixer you are using. Most can be replenished but a few can’t. Refer to the instructions provided by the company that makes your fixer.

No it's too thick. It has the consistency of molasses. I resolve the issue as mentioned in the slow notes.

@@thecoganfamily Thats so wonderful Stuart! I would love to see a photo of the camera and hear how it goes for you. My contact info can be found here. linktr.ee/jsollows

It’s designed for 36 exposures in the spool. You only put one roll of film in a spool.

@@jsollowsphotography Then I'm spooling wrong. I'll have to practice more. I seem to always have about 3 to 4 inches extra when i shoot 36 exposure 35mm film. Medium format I have no issues.

@Brokeninc Something is wrong there. You should have more than enough room. I’ve actually put a 42 exposure roll and still had room.

@@jsollowsphotography o wow 42! yeah i just need to practice more then it seems. i use to shoot mostly medium format and 4x5, but Im getting back into shooting after years away and i'm shooting 35mm to use up the film I have and to practice. Thank you for replying. Maybe I need to go back to the plastic reels. I had a teacher that hated them and forced us to use the steel reels. But I never had issues with the plastic ones .

Unfortunately since this video was released, Beau Photo no longer stocks the film. We are sadly limited to Blue Moon in California which is costly! You can also buy new film from a number of sources on eBay. They are reloading cartridges with new film and making them available. Best alternative is to do that very thing yourself. You can buy or if you have access to a 3D printer, you can print a film cutter for Minox. A single 36 exp roll of B/W film can make 6 rolls of Minox so that’s a very cheap alternative. If you are interested in that, let me know and I can give you more information.

Thank you, I’ll look at what Blue Moon has to offer and see about creating a film splitter. Are the 3D Printing specs on thingaverse?

Also May I ask what film is best? Black and white 100 400 etc?

Sounds like your adapter is faulty

@@jsollowsphotography I think so, it shouldn't work like this. It clicks like it locks but then rotates further and falls out with my lens.

@@tester776 I will send you a video showing the adapter close up and how it fits. The locking flange might just need to be bent into position. I will do that today and send the YT link as a comment here.

tester776 Here is a link I promised. ruclips.net/video/nypVgNF925w/видео.htmlsi=KWbsiv77OjxWD2Kn

@@jsollowsphotography Thank you very much

I agitate all films the same. First minute and then 5 seconds every minute.

I must disagree. I use both and use them effectively. My students also use them and prefer the Patterson one because it enlarges the grain more. I am getting up there in years and also prefer the Patterson because my eyes are not what they used to be so the larger grain is easier to use.

@@jsollowsphotography The low quality optics give you eye strain. There used to be a unit made by Bestwell which cost about $50, and is now made by someone else for about $100. Of course, if you want a "once in my lifetime" unit, look at the units sold by Peak, same under the Omega name. The other unit you show dates back to the 1960s. Its low magnification is sort of counterproductive, but I admit that I have no significant experience with it, unlike the Paterson, which I used for a year then gave away.

You are welcome!

Yes you are correct. It means .. when you are going to replenish, dispose of 45ml of your current working strength fixer and replace it with 45ml of freshly mixed working strength fixer. In other words dump out 45 ml of the old stuff and add in 45 ml of fresh (4+1). This boosts the concentration of your working strength solution. Make sure to dispose of the waste 45ml properly. I put it in a mason jar and when full I take it to my municipal chemical waste disposal site. Does that help? Please feel free to message me directly linktr.ee/jsollows

@@jsollowsphotography Perfect! Thanks for the super fast response!

I’m so glad I was able to help! Your comment is so nice to hear, thank you!!

That’s uncommon. These cameras were prohibitively expensive for most individuals. Cherish it, they are marvels of technology. I still use mine.

You’re welcome!

Ok then

It’s one of my favourites for sure 👍

Thanks for sharing!

Right!! 😂😂

No it’s replenished at 1:4 for General Purpose film as specified in the data sheet for Ilford Rapid Fix on page 3 under Replenishment. 1:9 is only used for paper, not film. I still replenish for paper at 1:4 and have done so now for 51 years.

@@jsollowsphotography Thanks for the clarification, got it!

I’m not aware of an adapter that will do that. Sorry

You are very welcome! Let me know if you have any questions.

I tried that but its very thick consistency so that didnt work. I added a note in the text that I found a solution using a weigh scale that measures in ml.

Depends on the fixer. My Ilford Rapid Fix doesn’t have that issue but I have seen it. Run your fixer through a coffee filter occasionally.

@@jsollowsphotography Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about trying this. I guess I shouldn't throw the filter away to normal bin?

If you have 70mm film and a 70mm reel and tank you don’t need to adapt anything.

@@jsollowsphotography right now I don’t have any proper 70mm tank or reals &. Only 1 15yp roll of that. I wanna try 65mm & I’m ok if u have to keep it short to 1.5m for now inside the 5.5m cassettes.

You’re welcome Gerry! With old film it can perform quite well but it likes contrast. Low light and shadows can be muddy. It’s fun to use it 👍

Yes I’m talking about safelight testing so naturally my audience is people who are familiar with using photographic paper.

@@jsollowsphotography Well, I am a complete newbie and I discovered your video while researching for my first use of photographic paper and it's development, so to me it wasn't obvious. Anyways, thanks for the video

You are quite welcome. Let me know if you have any questions.

Yes I’m aware of the history but “a normal camera that few could afford” is hardly interesting. The camera was somewhat unsuccessful until it’s use for covert activities was discovered. In fact Minox became successful largely due to their sales to government agencies. The espionage history is far more interesting and entertaining.

Glad you enjoyed it!

With some high end cameras such as Leica’s, you can actually look up the serial number and see the date of manufacture. With this camera you can only approximate by researching the specific model to find out the years it was in production. In my case, the camera came in its original box with manual and sales receipt dated July 12 1939.

Thank You so much for the kind words Mark!! The MX is a fine camera and definitely worth resurrecting! Let me know if you have any questions.

OMG Where are you buying 36 exp b/w for $22!!! I buy 35mm b/w retail for about $8 Cdn ($6 USD). I actually bulk roll my film which drops it further to about $3 Cdn a roll. Minox doesn’t use 35mm film so if I cut a 36exp 35mm into Minox format, that single $8 roll yields 6 rolls of Minox film .. so about 75 cents a roll. Then I can directly print in my darkroom or digitize the images and print on an inkjet photo printer.

Blue Moon prices@@jsollowsphotography

Walter Zapp never designed the Minox as a "spy camera" but rather something small enough be a companion camera. We can thank the smartphone for killing these off.

@@ps121911 You have to be a "true believer" to think that Minox submini prints are comparable to larger format film systems.

That’s wonderful Tom!!

It’s a personal choice. I like to see the shutter so I don’t end up putting pressure on it. I learned that lesson the hard way many many years ago when I covered the shutter with a piece of paper! Your idea of a hard piece of plastic is vastly better than the paper or post it note method that many promote. The method I use for removing light seal material creates no loose flying debris so in decades of doing this, it’s never been an issue. I’m more cautious of the shutter when it’s not hidden.

Hi Greg, thanks for your comments!! Regarding the mirror try a rocket blower first. If that fails I prefer to use distilled water on a cotton applicator as it should dry smudge free. If even that fails spray some quality lens cleaner onto a microfibre cloth and gently clean the mirror. Don’t use isopropyl alcohol as it can dissolve the glue that holds the mirror in place. Message me directly if I can assist at all. linktr.ee/jsollows

@@jsollowsphotography Hey Jim, thanks for the reply. I didn't have any lens cleaner solution here at the house and none at all available locally. I do have some Zeiss lens wipes, and I very gently wiped it with a small piece of one of those. That cleaned up the mirror tremendously. These very small black specks that I seem to be seeing are when I look through the eye piece at the image on the focusing screen. Could they possibly be little pieces of the old foam light seal that has blown up into the inside of the housing? And if so, are they anything to worry about, and is that an easy solution to clean out? Thanks again

As you described them thats exactly what I was thinking. The deteriorating foam will often cause black dust specs that get on the focus screen and prism. They will not affect the photos at all. They can be a bit annoying. Have a look under magnification with a bright light at the focus screen and see if you can see them just on the surface. You need to be careful with the focus screen but if you see dust specs try the air bulb and if that doesn’t work try distilled water on a cotton tipped applicator. If you want to see a demo, let me know and I will throw together a quick video for you.

@@jsollowsphotography Yes, please sir anything that you can think of that will help me cleaning the mirrors and lenses would be greatly appreciated. I have subbed to your channel. Thanks

@@mrgroovestring I will send you something this weekend 👍

Yes it makes it much easier. Most cameras don’t have that ability unfortunately.

Yeah, it's not a screw, it's a lever. Most cameras have it, only very few older 50s/60s SLR's are without that feature. Cotton thread.....Best light seals for back cover.