Hey man, great video. I was wondering though, when the F1 fuse fails, what is the result? Does it read 0 on the gauge, or full? Somewhere in-between? My gauge seems to bounce only between 0 and 100 all the time. Thanks.
I was wondering if you took a Bath ful or like this. And it had the cork with one little magnet inside. Can you change it to the plastic one? With the two magnets I'll neither in what it work1996 spx
Hi thanks for the video... does the rubber boot have to be sealed over the fuel tank opening or it just sits on top... mine I cannot get it to sit in far enough when I tighten the clamp the baffle still can twist around?
I have a 2003 seadoo speedster 160 with a mercury 240hp motor. My gas tank is full and my gas guage says 1/4 - E. Is still the result of a F1 fuse issue.
argh , I've done everything in this video but still doesn't read! but if I jump the wires the guage moves to full!! or does the unit have to be back in place? I just connected and slide the tube back and forth with no reading?
Hello, thanks, im going to give it a try too... Does anyone know about issues with the battery not charging enough to start the engine? I have to take a new battery every time we take it out... ugghhh it does in the water and I need to change it.
It’s call a fuel pick up assembly. leadersrpmshop.com/sea-doo-new-oem-fuel-tank-baffle-pick-up-assy-275500470-gs-gsx-gti-le-gts-gtx-hx/?gclid=CjwKCAjwrPCGBhALEiwAUl9X0yPqD8N0A7OOpUzuTq1cgpjExhcDeBli_t6OVMCwwI7eJ97BQZpsYhoCX9AQAvD_BwE
I started by researching what would cause the gas gauge to stop functioning. The F1 fuse was the culprit the majority of the time. I first tested the fuel gauge with a multimeter to make certain it was still good. I figured that it was worth a try considering I was going to have to replace the fuel baffle based on the symptom. Upon inspection the f1 fuse was darkened. I ran a thick bead of solder over the fuse to connect the terminals and it solved the problem as predicted. You may also want to take the opportunity to replace your float as they tend to fail due to ethanol over time. Hope this helps
good video out 96 challenger doing same thing going to take it all out soon but im going to drain the tank to because of a water in gas issue to and it will be so much easier to pump it out of the hole that the sending unit is. kill 3 birds with one bullet so to speak.
Seems like and easy enough fix, but one thing to think about is that theoretically there is no need to even really seal up that access port after you cut it open. If you look at the fuel tubes which lead to reserve and main fuel, they go from the top, all the way to the bottom where they suck the fuel - the reserve just goes a little closer to the bottom. The other two tubes (vent and return) end at the top. If the access port is left unsealed, it won't affect anything at all. Thanks for the tutorial, I'm in need of fixing my sending unit on my 97 Challenger XP.
@@rajivsingh1999 ya that was my thought as well. I see a lot of guys cut the top part (which would need sealing since its above the tank). I cut mine with a heated up exacto knife blade. Use a long blade, heat it with a torch and the knife will do all the work, slowly, no mess, no dust. Just leave the baffle out so its fully dry since you will be near an open flame. As a side note, not sure if my previous owner was a monkey, but my little magnet and small filter at the bottom dropped out of the baffle and were inside the gas tank. Very odd when I pulled it out since I thought I needed some magic magnetic fuel to activate the little glass switches (magnet was not inside baffle). Great video, and this part is over $200 new from BRP, and at risk of this silly fuse in the future. As a precaution, you can add an inline fuse to the connector (250 ma fuse) to protect the gauge as it was designed that way. You can then change the fuse much easier if something sets it off instead of having to remove the entire baffle, cut things up etc.
Hey Nate, thanks for the tutorial! At the beginning of this season, I ran the fuel all the way until the gas gauge glowed red, and started beeping. After filling with 40 fresh gallons of fuel, it still glows red and beeps. Is this the result of the F1 fuse? Thank you!
Hey Geoff, Thanks for watching. The F1 fuse would only cause your gauge to show zero file even when you know the tank is full. The red light is 2 stroke engine oil. Check your reservoir level first to rule out low oil. Next examine the oil level sensor if the tank is full. Hope this helps.
@@naterichards9320 I figured it out a couple weeks ago! Turns out the top oil reservoir was TOO full... so I siphoned some off and voila! The red light and beeping is gone. I think ill try the F1 fuse at the end of the season. Thanks!
Hey man, great video. I was wondering though, when the F1 fuse fails, what is the result? Does it read 0 on the gauge, or full? Somewhere in-between? My gauge seems to bounce only between 0 and 100 all the time. Thanks.
I was wondering if you took a Bath ful or like this. And it had the cork with one little magnet inside. Can you change it to the plastic one? With the two magnets I'll neither in what it work1996 spx
Hi thanks for the video... does the rubber boot have to be sealed over the fuel tank opening or it just sits on top... mine I cannot get it to sit in far enough when I tighten the clamp the baffle still can twist around?
I have a 2003 seadoo speedster 160 with a mercury 240hp motor. My gas tank is full and my gas guage says 1/4 - E. Is still the result of a F1 fuse issue.
Legend mate. Thankyou. Simple explanation and tutorial.
Thanks for the straight forward video. Seems like it’s always something on my 2000 GS. Def saved me $200.
argh , I've done everything in this video but still doesn't read! but if I jump the wires the guage moves to full!! or does the unit have to be back in place? I just connected and slide the tube back and forth with no reading?
Great job for not being a RUclipsr! And thanks for taking the time to video. Real game changer
Hello, thanks, im going to give it a try too... Does anyone know about issues with the battery not charging enough to start the engine? I have to take a new battery every time we take it out... ugghhh it does in the water and I need to change it.
Had the same issue. Replaced the black ground from starter to electric box and then the starter. Turned out both were bad. Worked.
Couldn't you solder up a little higher than where the fuse blew where it's closer in the circuit?
That’s exactly what I did, i soldered across the blown fuse. It’s labeled f1 on the silicon board.
Does anyone know what this tube is called I need to buy one but don't know what ut is called
It’s call a fuel pick up assembly. leadersrpmshop.com/sea-doo-new-oem-fuel-tank-baffle-pick-up-assy-275500470-gs-gsx-gti-le-gts-gtx-hx/?gclid=CjwKCAjwrPCGBhALEiwAUl9X0yPqD8N0A7OOpUzuTq1cgpjExhcDeBli_t6OVMCwwI7eJ97BQZpsYhoCX9AQAvD_BwE
Thanks for video. I have a 1999 Challenger 1800 with the same issue for years. I now feel confident that I can fix it.
how did you know that f1 fuse was the bad fuse??? what does it look like if its bad?????? come on man!!!
I started by researching what would cause the gas gauge to stop functioning. The F1 fuse was the culprit the majority of the time. I first tested the fuel gauge with a multimeter to make certain it was still good. I figured that it was worth a try considering I was going to have to replace the fuel baffle based on the symptom. Upon inspection the f1 fuse was darkened. I ran a thick bead of solder over the fuse to connect the terminals and it solved the problem as predicted. You may also want to take the opportunity to replace your float as they tend to fail due to ethanol over time. Hope this helps
good video out 96 challenger doing same thing going to take it all out soon but im going to drain the tank to because of a water in gas issue to and it will be so much easier to pump it out of the hole that the sending unit is. kill 3 birds with one bullet so to speak.
Excellent video, obviously this is a common problem. I did exactly as shown in video and worked perfectly! Saved me $300 thx !
Good video buddy, i have to do the same thing on mine just pulled it out today and will fix it over the weekend thanks for posting.
Seems like and easy enough fix, but one thing to think about is that theoretically there is no need to even really seal up that access port after you cut it open. If you look at the fuel tubes which lead to reserve and main fuel, they go from the top, all the way to the bottom where they suck the fuel - the reserve just goes a little closer to the bottom. The other two tubes (vent and return) end at the top. If the access port is left unsealed, it won't affect anything at all. Thanks for the tutorial, I'm in need of fixing my sending unit on my 97 Challenger XP.
You are absolutley right, I am doing this repair and am not going to reseal the plastic on the baffle.
@@rajivsingh1999 ya that was my thought as well. I see a lot of guys cut the top part (which would need sealing since its above the tank). I cut mine with a heated up exacto knife blade. Use a long blade, heat it with a torch and the knife will do all the work, slowly, no mess, no dust. Just leave the baffle out so its fully dry since you will be near an open flame. As a side note, not sure if my previous owner was a monkey, but my little magnet and small filter at the bottom dropped out of the baffle and were inside the gas tank. Very odd when I pulled it out since I thought I needed some magic magnetic fuel to activate the little glass switches (magnet was not inside baffle). Great video, and this part is over $200 new from BRP, and at risk of this silly fuse in the future. As a precaution, you can add an inline fuse to the connector (250 ma fuse) to protect the gauge as it was designed that way. You can then change the fuse much easier if something sets it off instead of having to remove the entire baffle, cut things up etc.
Hey Nate, thanks for the tutorial! At the beginning of this season, I ran the fuel all the way until the gas gauge glowed red, and started beeping. After filling with 40 fresh gallons of fuel, it still glows red and beeps. Is this the result of the F1 fuse? Thank you!
Hey Geoff, Thanks for watching. The F1 fuse would only cause your gauge to show zero file even when you know the tank is full. The red light is 2 stroke engine oil. Check your reservoir level first to rule out low oil. Next examine the oil level sensor if the tank is full. Hope this helps.
@@naterichards9320 I figured it out a couple weeks ago! Turns out the top oil reservoir was TOO full... so I siphoned some off and voila! The red light and beeping is gone. I think ill try the F1 fuse at the end of the season. Thanks!