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Was wondering the same. I just received mine but it did not come with instructions for the passenger side

Here for this also ^

The pathfinder mod has a different outlet so I don't think you'd be able to use their fancy fitting with the pathfinder tube (I'm putting my pathfinder mod on now).

We just love to see drifters cry.

LøL

*with

@@Officer_Dan *350Zedda

I would say adjustable rear camber and toe arms are completely necessary. The M3 rear suspension geometry does a pretty good job of maintain alignment specs when lowered. If you want to extend your tire life as much as possible then absolutely invest in some camber arms. We actually installed the stock springs back on this car as the customer was looking to sell it, the tires looked great even after a year of daily driving. Hope that helps.

Thank you

We will give you a hint, the new motor has titanium connecting rods.

I learned a hard lesson, on an AWD you have to take the entire front shock assembly out because of the drive axle. On RWD you do not and can just take the 3 smaller struts bolts up top and lower shock bolt out then just push the lower arm down to remove. No way no how on an AWD, you have to remove the whole assembly.

No we didn't, we have done two of them so far and haven't felt the need to trim the bump stops.

Oops. Just saw your little recap at the end of the video. Guess I'll reattempt next weekend.

Yeah, those springs aren't exactly perfect however once we had them bolted back up to the upper control arm they aligned themselves much better. They could have been designed better but we've also seen worse. Just do your best to get them close, once they are under weight they align well. It's worth all the work, don't give up!

@@10tenthsmotorsports11 my first thought was that they looked like stock springs with the top coil cut. They're well reviewed. I'll give it another shot. Great vid! Thanks!

Absolutely, we would love to earn your business!

We will see if our customer will send us some more pictures! The factory model 3 components don't really allow for much adjustment other then toe, at least from what I can remember anyway. The Camber can be slightly adjusted by loosening the "upper control arm housing" bolts and allowing them to move towards the center of the vehicle. This takes advantage of the tolerance in the chassis mounting holes which can sometimes give you .5 a degree of camber adjustment. The adjustment is likely not noticable at all, however we would prefer to have more negative camber then any positive camber. Alignment shops wouldn't consider this an adjustment, it's more of a Motorsports type of adjustment. Sorry if that made it more confusing or just created more questions, let me know if that helped!

Real professional right!? We fired our director, got Michael Bay for 2020.

😂😂😂😂 for sure...

We didn't, there were no instructions to do so and at the time we didn't think it was necessary. It's been awhile but I believe the bump stops on the model 3 were very short from the factory.

@@10tenthsmotorsports11 Eibach instructions say to cut them and tsporlines are supposed to be rebranded eibach's. Interesting, I am doing the install right now and I am not sure to cut the. Like you said no one else instructions says to cut them. Thanks

@@juanmedinar20 Our customer has had the car on the road for a few months now and hasn't voice any concern yet, our roads are pretty bad so I would imagine he would know right away. Let us know what you think once you're done with the install!

We're glad this motivated you to do it yourself! If the sound is indeed coming from the front then it can only be a few things. I would check the sway bar end link and make sure the nuts are nice and tight. My next guess would be the lower strut bolt, if that checks out I would make sure the upper strut and control arm bolts are tight. If everything seems good then the top hat might not be tightened all the way against the shock shaft, you can sometimes take the wheel off and use a jack to slowly compress the shock until you hear the noise in question. Make sure the car is properly supported by a jack stand before using the jack to compress the shock. Also make sure you don't lift the body off the jack stand while compressing the shock. Focus more on "full drop" to normal ride height rather than compressing the shock. Good luck!

Thanks, we added the springs and spacers that were used on this car in the video description, unfortunately we don't remember the wheel spacer widths. We only remember the rears where wider then the fronts. I think they were 15mm in the front and 20mm in the rear.

You can get the Blox Sport ones on ebay. Don't pay their full ask. Make them an offer of $150 and they'll take it. You can go 20mm in front and 25mm in rear for ultra flush look with those aero wheels. www.ebay.com/itm/4-2x20mm-2x25mm-Wheel-Spacer-5x114-3-Hub-Centric-For-Tesla-Model-3-2017-2019/333152572558?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Thanks for info kind sir!

Message the customer service on the main blox sport website and get the forged 7075-T6 spacers. Not the 6061-T6 listed in the ebay link. 7075-T6 is much stronger and safer (not that the other one will fail, but it's better not compromise when it comes to spacers). Negotiate like the other poster said though.

Did the car efficiency change in any way with spacers, springs? Do you have to get lug studs instead of OEM bolts?

Thanks! We added the torque specs we used in the video description.

10 Tenths Motorsports perfect, that’s what I needed. Thank you good sir! Good humor in the video :)

I'm still pissed at that muffler shop.