- Видео 13
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Tinker With Us
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Добавлен 21 июн 2016
I'm just documenting our homeschooling and tinkering adventures. We home school in a co-op and I spend time there tinkering with the kids.
Hacking a Pelican case onto Yakima EXO
It's 2022 and supply shortages make it hard to get what I need. The Yakima EXO system is very cool but all of the accessories for it are out of stock. I've used a Yakima roof box on the Prius but the Falcon doors on the Tesla means no more roof racks. The roof box I have for the other car is typical of the Yakima system and I find them to be a bit flimsy. I had a Pelican case and found a way to attach it to the EXO. I've not seen any other EXO hacks and wanted to share. It should be easy to attach other stuff to the EXO base with these rails.
This is the mounting rail that I used to connect the Pelican to the EXO
yakima.com/products/exo-roadshower-kit
This is the mounting rail that I used to connect the Pelican to the EXO
yakima.com/products/exo-roadshower-kit
Просмотров: 2 736
Видео
Razorblade for Jimmy Diresta
Просмотров 4526 лет назад
▶ Check out my gear on Kit: kit.com/lj I saw Jimmy's large razor blade and had to make him a set of blades he could use in a normal sized knife. Hope you enjoy! Gear: Camera: Canon M3 Lens: Canon 10-18mm EF-S on adapter Mic: Rode Video Micro
My DXF to Glowforge workflow
Просмотров 5 тыс.6 лет назад
This is how I take a DXF from Thingiverse and prep it for cutting on the GlowForge. The laser should really support DXF directly, but it only does SVG for vector engraving at the moment. I'm sure that there are better workflows for going from DXF to a cut product, but this is what I've found to work well for me.
Glowforge sound level readings
Просмотров 6 тыс.6 лет назад
I have found the glowforge laser to be very loud. It is hard to convey the sound in a video, so I decided to use a sound meter to quantify things a bit. LOUD NOISES IN VIDEO! Be careful if listening with headphones! Details below.... The NIOSH Sound Level Meter app on my iphone showed that the levels never got into the OSHA hearing protection levels (85db) but they were above 70db. Here's a bre...
2017 eclipse 360 video
Просмотров 377 лет назад
Here's a 360 video of the span of time from a few minutes before C2 to a few minutes after C3, totality where we were was 2:32. Pan around on your phone, the change in the lighting was amazing. You can see a faint lens flare right before totality showing the crescent and diamond ring phase of the eclipse. You can see the 360 sunrise like horizon, and you might be able to see Venus down and to t...
2017 eclipse totality
Просмотров 107 лет назад
Here's a video of totality from right before C2 to right after C3. It was amazing to see. The video doesn't capture the experience at all. We drove nearly 650 miles to see the event and it was worth every mile. I ducked all the audio in this vid, so no sound. Gear: Camera: Canon M3 Lens: Tamron 28-300 on adapter
How I used the sample questions for FAA part 107
Просмотров 1987 лет назад
Here's how I used the sample questions that are available online to verify my knowledge before taking the exam. There are 41 questions from the FAA and 130 from 3dr. I split up the available sample questions into four buckets and took about 40 questions and then went back and reviewed the materials for the one I missed or found to be overly difficult or that I had to guess on. Then I'd take the...
How I studied for the part 107 exam
Просмотров 1337 лет назад
Here's how I studied for the FAA part 107 exam. I read through the FAA guides and then start watching some RUclips to go over METAR and TAF weather reports and sectional charts. Tons of great resources available for free or there are paid training programs available too if you want to go that route Topics on my exam: sectionals, metar, taf, UAS loading, general UAS info, general aeronautical kn...
Cantilevered Box design in Fusion360
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.7 лет назад
I designed a cantilevered box with my son. He wanted something to carry his Pokemon cards. He had a very specific design in mind and we worked together to make it. He was very pleased with his box. Here's a short video going through the design in Fusion 360 Gear: Camera: Canon M3 Lens: Canon 10-18mm EF-S on adapter Mic: Rode Video Micro
How I design a laser cut box in Fusion360 - fixed audio
Просмотров 6 тыс.7 лет назад
I go through how I design a custom laser cut box in Fusion360. I use finger/box joints in the design that the laser will cut out to assemble a simple box. Some of the fingers are in a sketch, some are cut from other bodies. Here is the best method I have found to make a custom design to use with my laser cutter. I like the custom layout possible with this method. And the design is all parametri...
Tinker Tuesday - Block printing
Просмотров 327 лет назад
I did a block printing activity with the kids using the pink blocks I made. The low cost of the materials made it easy for the kids to do multiple blocks and iterate their designs. The most common printing issues that came up were the direction of text and the direction of individual characters. The mirroring that happens during printing was difficult for some of the kids to grasp. The texture ...
How I design a laser cut box in Fusion360
Просмотров 36 тыс.7 лет назад
The audio in the sped up portions of the video is messed up in this video. There is a fixed version at ruclips.net/video/6PsvOWOvs8o/видео.html I go through how I design a custom laser cut box in Fusion360. I use finger/box joints in the design that the laser will cut out to assemble a simple box. Some of the fingers are in a sketch, some are cut from other bodies. Here is the best method I hav...
Tinker Tuesday - Prepping Print Blocks
Просмотров 277 лет назад
I cut out some block printing blanks to use with the kids. Going to be doing some printing with the kids. Supplies: 2x 24x24x1 Extruded PolyStyrene pannel Home made HotWire foam cutter Gear: Camera: Canon M3 Lens: Canon 10-18mm EF-S on adapter Mic: Rode Video Micro
Just awesome now am going to try it with two pelican boxes. Thank you
great idea, I'll try it
where can i buy this track？
this is the part I used. yakima.com/products/exo-roadshower-kit you can buy it from Yakima or any of their resellers.
Very cool. Id rather have a pelican built box rather than the gear locker because it doesn't feel to solid. But weight plays a factor. I have the swing base along with the gear warrior basket but debating if i should go with the gear locker or something a bit more heavy duty. I want to utilize the gear warrior with some type of cargobox sitting right in it without having to use and buy the exo top shelf. Reson why i want to keep the gear warrior on there is because of the wheels you can attach. That is the biggest life saver out of the exo system. When camping and the kids love the giant wagon as well.
Outstanding, great callout on the rails!
Thanks, very useful video
Did you cut the rails? It looks like they originally had a perpendicular piece and yours are just flat
I did not cut the rails. The perpendicular piece was a separate attachment for the shower thing it was originally designed for.
Now I understand why my attempts have failed. Didn’t realize I needed to rescale.
That’s great tutorial Thank you
I’m
So glad people like you make these videos - between the Glowforge not working without connection to the internet and now reading it stuggles with DXF's means my business will not be dropping 10k on two pro versions. Thanks for saving me headaches/money.
Muchas gracias por el vídeo, me ha resultado muy útil.
Thank you so much for your help! This was exactly what I was searching for! :)
super video vous pourriez partager le fichier ? !
I am just now seeing this !!!
Mic too quiet, and video is bury and choppy, and doesn't explain most of the key steps
He actually speaks normally at x2 playback speed
Wow, John my son. Thank you for this. Kiss kiss
ill adam. Indiana presented with award.
@@notdatdominator2464 Hello, It is nice to see you in this comment section Sincerely Squidward
@@Therock12378 ill. ill ill, ill: Squidward ill, thank you ill thanks ill.
@@Therock12378 Helow please repliesees
Awesome vid, just got fusion 360 today and already I feel immensely more competent because of this video. Thanks my dude.
So glad it could help you out.
can you show a video of you using fusion360 then using the laser cutter? I would love to see what we do after we have the .dxf file
Yeah, sure I can do that. What workflow in particular are you wanting to see? I can show f360 -dxf-svg-glowforge right now. My k40 is down right now so I can't show the laserweb/smoothie workflow. going back and forth between the smoothieboard/laserweb and the original k40 control board/k40 wisperer.
Fibre laser: would love to hear more about it. Ive got a 100w C02 laser. the feature where it shows the red laser ie "where it going to laze. is cool. wish mine had that. Sam
It's only a 20w so mostly just marking. Deep engraves take way too long and cuts are basically not worthwhile. Just like the CO2 lasers you always wish you had more wattage. It's a fiber laser with a galvo head, direct import from China. Totally different use case from CO2 lasers. On my K40 I have it do bounding box before lase so I can position. But for things that need to be spot on I use my glowforge and do optical alignment directly under the lid camera.
Love that sound! 🤣 Very cool man! Quick and easy!
Thanks. It is a neat sound to listen to on a long engrave
Is that using a Glowforge?
+Virtual Kevin no, it is a 20W fiber laser engraver
The questin is how to get the autodesk fusion 360 lifetime licence
De Hunter It's free for hobbyists and startups making less than $100k/yr. If you get the free trial you can click the little link on the startups screen that says something like "check to see if you qualify for free use" (I don't remember the exact wording, sorry) and you can verify that you're a hobbyists user in there. Happy modeling!
I'm stuck at 6:00 - I can't add the dimension because F360 is telling me "Adding this dimension will ove-rconstrain the sketch"
Hi, sorry I was on holiday and am just seeing this today. So there is likely a dimension somewhere else in your sketch that is forcing the dimension. Usually you should only enter the dimensions on blue lines. Once a line is black, it is fully constrained either explicitly or via calculations based on other dimensions. If you think that a line should not be constrained (black) you can start to delete some constraints/dimensions to see which one is linked to the line you are investigating. message me if you still need some help, and maybe we can collab directly in f360 via a live review session. -John
I redid the tutorial and it works now. I think I was just new (this was the first tutorial I attempted with F360) so that explains why I got lost so easily. Did some of the Autodesk Tutes then came back to this. Thanks for the upload and introducing me to parameters.
My GF was way quieter then I thought. Thanks for this! ruclips.net/video/6aIoaey1KLk/видео.html
Tinker With Us good video i got a little problem i download a DXF in instructables and the name of the file is instructarcade is a mini Arcade and i don't know how i can make the right size for the GlowForge can you help
How are you liking your glowforge?
how do you get nominal dimensions and don't have problems with the tolerances of the laser cut machine?
Nice work! QQ: when I did a box like that my grooves appeared to be a little bit bigger (due to laser cut ~0.1mm), do you know how to make it fit perfectly so that the edges goes tough into each other? I know I can design it and check experimentally but do you know any other options?
Hi, I have been using fusion for my CAM recently and you can do cutter compensation to adjust where the CAM paths hit. I've found that cutting on the vector works well enough for my needs, but if you want/need a tighter fit, you can look into the cuter comp settings to adjust for fit. Sadly the only real way to get a perfect fit is to experiment.
Hi John, thanks for the great video. We got a Glowforge and was wondering why it's so damn loud. Glad to find your video. I downloaded the same NIOSH SLM app (it's supposed to be accurate to within a couple of decibels, according to NIOSH). I have some experience with NIOSH and their work, it's top notch scientific research agency so I trust these readings. I'm also a part time audio engineer on weekends so I know what I'm doing. Our Glowforge is in a quiet office type setting. Sound levels were around 83-88 dBA during few cuts, with exhaust running (hazardous level according to NIOSH is 85). Mid to high 70's without the exhaust. I have an iPhone 8, I did a couple of things differently. I removed the case from my phone so not to block the microphone, and I pointed the microphone (on the bottom of the phone) at the Glowforge around 1.5 feet away (where I would normally be standing). I had a friend with an access to Quest sound level meter, I borrowed it for a day, and got almost exact measurements after calibration. This is crazy loud, if you ask me. Thanks for posting this!
I'm glad you found this helpful. Nice to hear that the Niosh app is inline with a hardware meter. Thanks for comparing results.
I couldn't see anywhere that you were applying a kerf offset. My laser has a 200um kerf, so cutting directly from the dxf files would give a very sloppy fit. I've used a similar technique, though I create a shape, then split body to get my 3mm sheets, and extrude tabs, combine cut, then offset faces for the kerf. For a simple box, there's a really good (free) extension for Inkscape (free) called "tabbed box maker". Type in the dimensions, tab size, kerf and click ok and you get an entire cutting plan in about 1 second.
Karl Fimm, what you are looking to do is capable with the Fusion 360 ADD-IN called "DXF for Laser". If you were to calculate the kerf in the model, you'd get overlapping faces, which might create issues on more complicated projects, and will show errors with collision detection. DXF for Laser, can be tedious (but so is regular DXF exporting from Fusion 360), as you can only select one panel to export at a time (in this case you'd have 3 as 2 are identical to another 2). But it adds the kerf when you export. Open up the DXFs in Illustrator, CorelDraw, Inkscape, your laser software, etc., and lay them out for cutting in a single document if needed. If you plan on sharing the DXF's, don't put a kerf on the output, people with different lenses won't be able to cut it and have it fit properly. The kerf can be added in a vector editing program by doing an offset to the cuts. You may have to connect all points, or vertices first, as DXF for Laser does not join continuous lines/splines together. There's also the updated sheet metal functionality for flattening and exporting (which I haven't done much experimenting with), but I don't think that adds the kerf either. You'll still need to add it in post. I think you can add that kerf using the CAM functionality when you create gcode. But most lasers I've seen, there's no easy way to send gcode to them, they act more like printers when sending cuts.
Instead it's telling me to choose a body??!!
when i hit "Rectangular pattern" it's not letting me select and object!!!
Make sure to pick "Rectangular Pattern" under the "Sketch" menu, not the "Create" menu.
Wow that is almost as loud as the Apple Store on a weekend!
a phone is not a legitimate way of measuring sound levels
Yes, it is not a calibrated method of sound measurement, but the NIOSH app seems to be fairly reputable. The purpose of my video was to show to others how loud the machine is. The loudness does not come across in video since the mic peaks and cannot convey the actual sound. The app seemed like a reasonable way to get some quantifiable data into the video instead of just a loud audio track. I don't think I ever said I was using a calibrated meter. Sometimes the tools we have are better than no tool at all.
Tinker With Us all microphones in pretty much all divides are made different... If your going to measure sound get an appropriate device for doing so
Obviously not, but this gives a better understanding than saying it's just "loud".
@@CocoBorderCollie not really. Nowdays there are so many devices that are fairly cheap now that can tell you the Decibel levels that there are no real excuses like that ... he'll you can buy a Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader from Walmart for under $20 nowadays
How to cut the noise level of your GF in half... (pictures in the GF users Facebook group) 1. Put insulation around the outside of the exhaust duct. The insulation cuts the noise by over 50%. I used an insulation sold by Lowes that is made from recycled jeans. You can see the product tag in the center of the picture. Standard fiberglass insulation from a big box store will work just as well though. 2. Surround the bottom edge of the machine with insulation. You can see it on the bottom right side of the picture. ***Do this at your own risk. Be careful to not restrict the airflow too much! Check the flow before and after adding the insulation.*** There should not be a noticeable difference. I measured a 10% reduction in the flow velocity exiting the duct). The machine draws air from the bottom right to feed the exhaust fan. This cuts the noise level by about 50% also. I suspect the filter unit will do this also. Sound test results 2 feet from the front of the machine: ----Without any insulation: 48.8 dB - Machine idle 69.5 dB - Machine cutting full power (about as loud as a vacuum cleaner, quite annoying) ---With insulation around the base only 46.8 dB - Machine idle 67.4 dB - Machine cutting full power --With base and exhaust tube insulation 46.8 dB - Machine idle 65.1 dB - Machine cutting full power (about as loud as a dishwasher, this is a major difference)
I'm not sure covering the input vents is the best way to cut the sound. If its working for you, great. I've been poking inside the unit and I may try to swap out the internal fan or remove it all together since I have the external Harbor Freight dust collector venting out 660CFM already.
Tinker With Us... it only dropped the flow rate by 10%. That probably represents less pressure drop than if I would have used the full 8' of duct hose provided with the GF. If you aren't able to check your flow rate to make sure what you do doesn't restrict flow too much then just put your Glowforge on top of a sound dampening material like a few layers of towels or a piece of carpet. That along with covering your exhaust duct will drop your sound levels by about 50%.
I'd love to have others with a Glowforge take similar sound level readings and share them in the comments below. I think that the surrounding environment could have a big impact on the sound and would be curious to see if others with different work spaces have drastically different readings or not.
Awesome video, Thank you. Curious how do you then deal with kerf? you mentioned "I then send it to my Cam process. could you explain? -S
I'd like to know how one would add in kerf values for the laser.
For kerf compensation I have usually just added in a small 'slop' factor to some measurements when defining them in the design. Then I can do test cuts and adjust this one parameter and have all joints change as needed. For my wood boxes, I don't find the laser kerf to be something that needs active compensation, your application may differ.
I Dont know about your laser but the china laser has that built in
Please Help! You have a really informative tutorial. My only question is why do some of my faces still show as squares? when I hover over them the tabs and broad faces seem to be separate, but when I look at the bodies they are solid and include the tabs (which they should). I computed interference and got not errors. My concern is that if I export this dxf as is, it will show a height dimension line segment essentially cutting off all the tabs on one side of the box. Fortunately, I can rectify this in a more familiar program but I want to do it in 360. It seems to have something to do with the parallel thickness lines I drew where the corners intersect... I hope I explained this properly.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Again, very good video.
If you're still seeing individual bodies, you can do a boolean join to get them to present as a single face. The way a dxf is exported should just be a projection of a single face, so if the line is there it should be easy to spot in the dxf and remove. message me and I'd be glad to do a review of your f360 design and try to spot the problem with you.
Good tutorial. Couple of questions. Laying out the parts to cut. say in your box example you have 5 pieces. is their an easier way to lay them all out at the same time for cutting? also considering how they get layed out 1 for minimal material loss as well as considering what size material you have so they then can get cut from? Q #2 (the real important part) lets say your creating finger joints for material thats so called 3mm but intruth: once measured its really 2.87mm (choose any number its just an example) then also considering your lasers KERF. lets call that .05. (everyones is different, plus it changes depending on what your cutting) Now, in your model when you cut all your joints? Your box will fit together loose. (because of the loss of material ie kerf.) Any thoughts on how to compensate for that loss. when you have a part with lots of interesting points the kerf adjustment can get quite time consuming. thanks agin for the great post!
Sorry for not replying sooner. For the kerf, I find that it doesn't really matter much with the laser. I do include a 'slop' factor that I have used to tighten things up, bunt in reality I usually just cut at the measured thickness and it works. In plywood designs the kerf difference is so small that the glue used in assembly easily fills the void. My acrylic boxes have had some larger gaps, but the solvent was still able to work. Make some test cuts and see how much it really matters in your application. But from my woodworking I've generally found that 1/64 or less is good for most things (miter corners excluded).
TWU, Thanks for the response. and again loved the video. While I have adopted lots of your method I still need to be able to adjust for KERF. Perhaps your applications allow you to not feel the effects. Im not so lucky. HOW if you did want to adjust for it could it be approached? you seem to just have that feel for F360.. Im still trying to "GET IT" even with all the nights till 3:00am and tutorials making my head spin! being able to adjust the kerf would be a blessing! Thanks for the consideration. -S
Very nice!
I passed in about 2 weeks. My study incldued Just watching RUclips videos on METARS, TAFs and Sectional. Then downloaded a study prep exam app call UAS107 (play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=uas107.openrobotix.labs&hl=en); passed first try with a 90%. Total cost $155 ($150 for the test, $5 for the app). Done !
I like your use of parameters to calculate the tab sizes, but you should use the mirror tool, sketch projections, and combine tools to drastically reduce your design time.
Where are those links you mention?
There's a list of links in the description of the video if you click the "show more"
Am I the only one who cant hear much?
WWwhat
I know that how I design the tabs may not be the most efficient. If you have any pointers on how to improve, I'd love to hear them. Thanks.