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Great question! Yes, I have almost no dust in the filter and haven’t had to shake it out once. Also, the vacuum bag is empty. This is SIGNIFICANTLY better than the garbage pail topper I used to use.

I'm glad for your comment since I'm all about safety. It may not be obvious because of the camera angles, but at no point were my hands near the blade or was I pushing with my fingers in line with the blade...so I'm glad I have all my fingers, but not really that amazing after all. One thing that could have been safer was if I put the blade guard down lower, but I raised it for the video shoot. So as a public service announcement: "Hey, kids! Keep your blade guard close to the work piece!" (The more you know.) 😃

Thanks for the info. I took a look and I don't see this video listed as a SHORT. Would you mind letting me know what you are looking at so I can double-check and see what you see? Thanks.

@@dougpisik when you are in youtube, there is section shorts. And you look one after the other. Then your video appeared which in theory in that section should not be more than 1min long. I assume maybe wrongly that you load your videos with your phone when this can happen very easily if not switch from either short or video. When a normal video (horizontal) is loaded as a short (vertical format) you lose as well in viewing format. Maybe from your own account, you cannot see the difference, so ask a friend of yours to look at it and you will see what I am talking about. Hope this helps

@@jkneebone3406 Thanks! It’s worked well for me.

You’re right about the charcoal vs black. I have been using charcoal. As for the staining, I find that stains don’t go too deep me when I use this method. You may need to sand more aggressively with a coarser grit, or plane off a 16th of an inch. Another option is to mask off the surface around the crack before using the epoxy, but I haven’t needed to do that myself. Sorry, but I have no other advice for you. I hope it works out.

So glad you found this helpful.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks so much!

The top wheel blade tilt adjustment is a minor movement that shifts the blade location on both the tip and bottom wheels. If the wheels aren’t mostly complaint to start with, then when you adjust the top wheel the blade on the bottom wheel might be out of alignment.

I don't know for sure if this will work, but if it were me I would add a little resin into the crack to see if it seals off the bottom and doesn't leak where you don't want it. After it cures, you can then do another pour that fills in the crack completely. Hope this works for you.

Give it a try! Easy to cut small boards if you have a bandsaw.

Because of the weight of the saw and the need to ensure it doesn’t break, I used the screws. I wouldn’t trust the 2x4’s to be strong enough with just the glue and the crude butt-joints I used. If I didn’t want to use screws, I would have made stronger and more complex joinery, but it wasn’t worth the effort for a quick project like this.

@@dougpisik I see, thank you for replying. Do you think the strap would have worked with some dowels and the glue, no screws needed? Not necessarily for a saw table but for general woodworking... Reason I am asking is that I am considering a couple of these as an alternative to longer clamps due to not having space to store a bunch of large clamps. I work in my small balcony.

Natali, yes! I think this would work great with dowels. You just have to leave the strap clamps on until the glue fully sets. It’s a great option.

Good to hear!

Glad you liked this. Works like a charm!

Thank you!😊

If you're referring to using a torch to remove bubbles, it can help remove surface bubbles but not any that remain below the surface. Since I recommend overfilling the gaps, there really isn't much of a need to remove surface bubbles since they will be sanded away after the resin cures.

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

Thanks for the comments and question. I haven't had any issues with the grout. It's really just a powdered pigment that doesn't dissolve. I agree that since it's coated and soaked in epoxy, it doesn't absorb liquid. That said, I haven't tried it for outdoor projects, but I feel confident that it should work just fine.

Glad to help. Hope it works well for you.

Glad it was helpful! Sounds like a great project.

same question lol

Thank you.

Many people use epoxy on serving boards and tables, but I can’t confirm 100% food safe. Best to contact your epoxy manufacturer. My understanding is that once the epoxy is FULLY cured (about a month), there are no concerns serving cold food on it. I personally would avoid putting hot food directly on the epoxy.

Thanks for the comment. The screws are PowerPro Exterior Wood Screws. Lowes sells them, and they can be found on Amazon and other sites.

I’ve had mixed success. Depends how deep into the fabric it is. You can get most off this way, but if the glue is pressed into the fibers it might not get it all.

Bought the brush ages ago. It's just a cheap department store nail brush. Sorry I don't have a brand name for you.

I still have all 10 of my fingers! Glad it helped out. This has worked great for me.

Man, hell yea. Thank you for posting this!

La sega a nastro è di Laguna. lagunatools.com/

You usually want to wait a few days depending on the epoxy used. If you sand epoxy before it's fully cured it will gunk up your sandpaper and not sand well. If you use a planer on very hard epoxy, you run the risk of chip-out. Although not really planned, by only waiting a day the epoxy was hard, but less likely to chip...so running it through the planer worked out just fine. That said, it is better to wait a few days, and if you use a planer, take multiple passes with very thin shavings. Hope this helps.

Thank you!

Thanks for the comment and kind words. As for the epoxy, I use what would be considered a medium viscosity. That said, some woods are just very porous. To avoid excessive absorption or color bleeding, a sealcoat of clear epoxy should be used first...just enough to coat the exposed surface of the wood in the crack spread around with a small disposable brush or thin piece of wood. Let it cure overnight, and then pour in the colored resin. If you do this, it's highly unlikely you'll have an absorption issue.

I didn’t use any poly in this video, but in other projects I will thin down poly for a first coat so it soaks into the grain. I also thin poly at times to make a wiping poly that can be applied with a rag. When you buy wipe-on poly, you’re just basically buying thinned down regular poly.

@@dougpisik Oh! I also watched your River Table right after this one … that might be where I remembered the thinned poly. Thanks, that makes a lot of sense to do.

Thanks!

Something that may be worth trying, but I’d be concerned about pulling some of the epoxy out of the crack if you’re softening it up that much with a heat gun. It’s a risky process, but I assume can be done with the right epoxy and some practice.

Go for it!

What bandsaw is that?

Laguna 16HD. Excellent saw!

Thanks so much!!! That means a lot.