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Just received an A3 31. Only adjustment I needed to make was the height of the outfeed (receiving) table. Was a smidge too high. Adjustment was pretty straightforward. After completing, both tables were co-planer. Test pieces on the jointer were flat, smooth, and square. Planer produced consistent results. Digital calipers showed very little, if any, variation side-to-side and front-to-back.

Set the front of outfeed table first - the two chrome dome bolts that the front twist handle holds. Set low. Then over side of outfeed. Great video.

have you messed with the planer adjustments? Mine has serious snipe I cannot get rid of. Felder sent me the specs to adjust it but that did not even help.

you lost me when I saw the CNC router....you're title should be, How I made my board

My Hammer A3-26 was delivered pretty out-of-whack. I could not have gotten it dialed in without this video. Thank you so much! By the way, for anyone out there, the instructions here work great for the 26.

The first order of business is to use a precision straight edge. There’s a big difference between a straight edge used for rough setting of tablesaw wings and plywood outfeed tables. I have 3 lee valley straight edges one groz precision and a suburban tools precision straight edge. The lee valley isn’t good enough. Chasing that last 2 or 3 thousand out of jointer tables isn’t going to happen with common house straight edges. Maybe you’ll get lucky but I think not.

Just a couple of points. First, I would tell anyone if they are attempting to do this join the Felders owners group. They are wealth of information on calibrating the machine especially a guy named Brian and David Best they also have a link to the A3-31 calibration procedure. Basically they walk you through what you Just filmed. Just another good perspective. Excellent video. Also as mentioned you cannot cram those locks down to keep the tables in place. Very very light finger pressure or it’s gonna throw the whole thing out again. I’m getting ready to start and I cannot tell you how helpful your video is.

Felder U.K. sent me a £550 quote for an engineer to set up my machine after it was moved. I think the lack of set up info is deliberate. This is my first and last hammer machine.

I learned this the hard way few years ago, but it's great, that You prepared such a detailed instruction! This is rather a nice piece of equipment (even better with Silent Power), but it can be real pain in the ass, once it loses its alignment.

This is such a helpful video, thank you so much! I adjusted mine for the first time today and it went really quick! After having read in an earlier comment that you can adjust the two front bolts with the table in the locked position, I found that this is also possible in the back for the makro adjustment screws (on the infeed table, didn't need to touch those on the outfeed table). Once the outfeed table was adjusted to the planer head, I clamped two straight edges to the outfeed table and adjusted the infeed table in ca. 40min. Time will tell how good of a job I did, but for the moment I'm really happy. Thanks for the video, it took a lot of stress out of this task!

Miles, great video. I have been on the phone with Felder Tech Support for the past two days; yes two days. I have adjusted the jointer table front to back on the outfeed side and have the height set in reference to the cutter block. My problem is at the infeed side is kicked up on the wing end such that when laying a straight edge across the outfeed and infeed tables I have a .030" gap at the cutter block (a smiley face). I have lowered the castle nut on the wing end of the infeed table so that nothing is limiting the table other than the macro adjustment on the hinge. Would you suggest lowering the macro adjustment on the hinge side? The small hex nut. I have tried this before and have had some luck but I lowered the table to much and had a large gap on the wing side. Does the wing side macro adjustment raise and lower the wing parallel. I ask because I continue to struggle with getting the infeed wing below the cutter head closest to the hinge.

I really wanted one of these. I've been doing a lot of research on it and found that the tables are not very flat and a bitch to adjust. For the money the quality in design just isn't there. This looks like a problem you will become very familiar with and in time get good at. I don't want to build that skill. I'm now looking into independent machines. More money but less trouble.

Thank you so much for this detailed explanation. I received my Hammer A3-41 two days ago and realized that the infeed table is too low on one end and called Felder to get them to send me some instructions on how to adjust the tables. To my disbelief, they didn't have any documentation - how is this possible? Your video is the only one I found on RUclips that goes into these adjustments in any detail. Great job!

I like the simplicity of the design

Thanks for the video! I’ve had my A3-41 for almost 7 years worked Great for 5-1/2 then out feed went haywire and I adjusted best I could but have to crank down so hard on the lever compared to feed side. Now I’m getting snip on the jointer Yes JOINTER and pieces are only 15” long. Tomorrow I will be attempting to level it all. Thanks again for great video

The small foot print will be replaced by a big toe print in your butt when that machine starts to go out of adjustment, the castings start to warp and it becomes impossible to dial them back in. I can see just looking down in your video that your outfeed is not truly flat. And you know why Felder does that ? To offset the sagging that occurs from lack of proper support by those pathetic jack screws. Dude, you've got a two door garage. That's plenty of room for separate machine's. Combinations are a false economy. You live in America. Your spoilt for choice of legendary American made Jointers. Yates, Oliver, Fay and Egan, Northfield. Shame on you for buying that Nazi import.

Awesome build. I subscribed to help your channel. Stay consistent and your channel will grow. I can see this channel getting 10K subs very fast.

We are sorry to see that it isn't working. Please reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They'll be able to assist you and get this figured out. Thank you

Thank you for your video - well done and incomparably more helpful than anything else I have found. Felder should be ashamed for not producing videos like that, you are doing their work for them... But then again may be they do not want us to know that so that we are dependent on their technicians to adjust our machines...Or am I paranoid? My machine was Ok when I got it, but over a couple of years the in-feed table front dropped significantly. I need to do some adjustments. With this it will be much easier......

Love the music

Nice!

Woodworking woes!

Just thank you for this detailed explanation. It blows my mind that this video has such a low viewcount given the fact that the Felder service is a little desaster even here in Germany. I guess the RUclips algorithm is messed up. Again thank you - greetings from Berlin, Germany

as an Austrian guy (where Hammer / Felder is from) its fun that you have to find an English Video on how to adjust as there is nothing proper in German :) Thanks mate!

Thank you for the additional info on the back adjustments been struggling with mine with significant snipes using the jointer. Will try to redo the adjustements. The planer has always worked out great. Edited… just read all the comments additional very awesome tips in there, thanks again.

Just received my Hammer a3-41 also. I watched your video several times to understand placement of adjustment screws and what they each do. Thank you for the info, I think it will make adjustment on tables a lot easier.

When adjusting the latch side table adjusting bolts place a dial indicator on the top center of the bolt. This will allow you to make equal arrangements to both bolts and let you know how much movement you are getting. After making the adjustment lower the table and place a piece of .0015 feeler stock between each bolt head and the table. Now using your hand apply downward pressure on the table with one hand and with the other gently tug on either piece of feeler. This will let you know that both bolts are making simultaneous contact. If they do not contact simultaneously a twist is induced in the table when you engage the latch. You can also confirm this by attaching a dial indicator base to the top of the table and place the indicator on the cutter head. Apply downward pressure on the table and zero the indicator. Now latch the table. There should be no more than .001 movement on the indicator when the adjusting bolts are making simultaneous contact.

First rate job, much appreciated.

Omg thank you soo so much for sharing this Ive been trying to get mine adjusted since I got it and needed this video thank you!!

hello miles wanted the laser file as i wanted to build please help

First off, this is an amazing video. Especially for those of us with a Hammer jointer planer. Second, I can’t believe the low numbers of views. I’ve watched this at least 5 times as it’s packed with good setup information. Yeah, there is the video by Preston Hoffman which gets a top hit when you search for Hammer jointer/planer setup. There’s Bents woodworking as well but neither go into the detail of your video-in my opinion. I, like you, had a machine that was out of specs. The info about all the various table adjustment points was great none of which are really mentioned in the manual. My machine is now (hopefully) set for good. One thing I would like to add though is that you can adjust the front table bolts with the table in the locked position. There is enough room to get two wrenches to adjust them up and down. It makes it much easier than putting a line in the bolt head and then by trial and error make the adjustment (Like I did initially). Adjusting the rear table was a snap with the loosening the bolts on the hex screw and then move it up or down as needed. Thanks again.

Great job Miles!

Step one, own a cadcam machine

Not a "how-to", but I must say I've been amazed at how quickly the CNC does the job 😱😱😱 On a side note, the lady playing white can remove the 20 points she thinks she scored (and both white disk by the way) since she had to touch a black disk present on the board. 😜

Buy a board online/or machines that can build it for me for 10× the price? Hmm?

One limitation is the size of the router bit that cuts the line-hole means your playing-field line is a bit too wide. This may cause more discs to overlap the line and thus cause lower-scoring game overall. Not the biggest deal but I think other makers use paint for their lines?

Beautiful board, but this should have been called "watch me make a Crokinole board."

Do you have any experience with buffing the epoxy to improve the finish? I poured mine and sanded everything but the epoxy is not a shiny as I would like. Any ideas? Also, thanks for the video helped me to figure out how to complete the project.

I love the brass pegs. Was thinking of doing the same, what diameter brass rod did you use? and what height did you cut them at? thanks! great video!

Cool video! I wonder how they did this before CNC routers... Seems like an unbelievably big difference in the amount of work required, haha

This is a terrible how to. This is just you building it. You don’t explain the details of anything.

Hi! Thanks for the great video :) I'm going to give this build a go. I have a few questions first, though: 1) What did you use to seal the wood before applying the epoxy? 2) I'm realy concerned about sanding through the plywood veneer to clean up the epoxy. In hindsight, are there easy ways? Like somehow masking the work prior to cutting the lines? Or is there some minimum thickness veneer to make this viable? 3) Were you happy with polycrylic finish for smooth gliding? 4) Did you polish it after, and if so what kind of polish did you use?

Do you have the dimensions of each piece of wood your working with? I'm looking to make one myself.

I really liked the soundtrack also!

Awesome video Miles! Dig the soundtrack! 👍

Great job Miles!! Cool addition to your Etsy store too!