Видео

Ìsn't it .Gcode?

Glad I could help!

You're welcome!

Yes, definitely.

This doesn’t have an LCD but I do have other models I’ve made with screens. For my Formulae Renault 3.5 wheel I used a 3.2” Nextion touch screen but the cheaper option these days is the 3.5” standard USB screens or bigger. The Nextion is controlled by a Arduino Pro Micro board and SimHub software to send the data to and from the game. See simhub’s site for details on the options. Thanks for asking.

Coming soon!

Thank you. I hear some users with the BL Touch are having issues doing this so it’s probably for old school manual height adjusters like me :)

Good to hear and happy printing.

Hello, I am new to 3D printing as well but the only way I’ve figured out how to bypass that error is by downloading the print again, entering the exact measurements you used on your original print (I take photos of my measurements before I start printing) and then you can follow his steps. I just finished doing this myself. Hope it helps sorry it is probably not the easiest method

Sorry I missed this. Have seen a similar problem once and as @average gamer said, the file might have become corrupted due to the power outage. I always ‘save project’ in Cura now so I can always load it and regenerate a fresh G-code file quickly if the old one is gone or damaged.

I use PETG for everything that needs to be strong. Carbon fiber PLA is nice for a CF like matt finish on some parts but it’s quite brittle. Standard PLA is good for anything that doesn’t need strength like knobs, panels and detail and it prints much easier than PLA. Some of the PLA silk filaments are great for metallic looking parts. I stay well away from ABS, it’s terrible to print with in my experience.

I made each one myself in several parts with a miniature led inside. I got the stickers printed on sticky vinyl at a local print shop.

Great to hear! Me too. I was so sick of all the wasted time and materials.

Yes the print was still running with no filament coming out so I paused the printer but maintained the printer bed temp and then continued printing. I’ve also done it from a cold bed and let it heat up and print again.

I’ll be showing the wiring. No code involved if you use the Leo Bodnar BBI-32 usb button box interface board. It’s plug and play. Simply attach switches and select what you want them to do in the sim.

Quite a few brown pants moments when you spend so many hours working on something!

Check because you should be able to enable it in the Cura printer settings options. It will then appear in the settings window pane.

thank you I'm glad! There are more coming...

It was just epoxy glue called Selley’s Araldite here in Australia www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-24ml-araldite-5-minute-epoxy-glue_p1230054

Any hardware store. Araldite it’s called here in Australia www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-24ml-araldite-5-minute-epoxy-glue_p1230054

Right ok. Yes I’m totally running manually.

It’s definitely enhanced the experience but hasn’t made me any faster :) pedals on the other hand, have made a big difference. I had a Logitech G27 before. The only reason I got the VRS was that the G27 was nearly dead. Constantly slipping and I’d fixed it many times. VRS was an overkill and I only run it at very low force anyway so could have easily used any other cheaper wheelbase with the same results.

@@sim-racing2277 oh that’s would be a big jump, I have a v2.5 atm looking at the VRS hopefully very soon. Thanks for responding man

@@seanmack9207 actually very small jump I thought? First few days I considered selling as it’s just not necessary. I still use irFFB cos I don’t like the FFB in iRacing. I also wished I’d bought the Simucube for the wireless capabilities as I hate the cable connection so it’s very expensive for a basic wheelbase. I’d recommend checking out the VNM gear. Genius Vietnamese engineer making fantastic gear.

yes thank you! I did only have my printer 2 days at that stage so had a lot to learn ;-) been through a few spools since then haha Definitely an art to getting the right 3D prints too hey?

@@sim-racing2277 Yeah, id hate to think how many prototype parts ive had to throw away.

Thanks Norman! It’s like a rollercoaster ride of work which can seem overwhelming so just got to do each step at a time.

Thanks Chris :) more coming. I’ll try to put a new one out every Friday if possible! It can look rough but first builds always do until the final polish. I’ll do a roundup vid at the end with tips.

@@sim-racing2277 Looks way better then when I built mine lol. I made a BMW M4 GT3 wheel for download if ever interested

@@KN1GHTY would love to see it. Did you design from scratch?

@@sim-racing2277 its made to look like the fanatec/real one I will PM you the link

@@KN1GHTY great. It’s a fun car that one and the M8 is a blast too. I like the design innovation in the new Fanatec wheel.

Hi Oliver. Depended on how the part was being used. Because the body is strengthened by the carbon fiber, I didn’t need to use so much infill especially on the front panel. That would have been about 25%. With the back panel, I still printed it with more infill at around 50% because the towers that hold the heated brass screw inserts need to be as strong as possible. The knobs were printed at 50% again because the hollow holes for them need support.

I made the button tips and knobs but the switches themselves I bought from AliExpress. It can be hit and miss as the quality varies wildly. Of the 40 or so switches I bought around half were faulty from new and all had a different click sound. With pots and switches, generally the more you spend, the better the quality. Cheapies are ok for a mock up prototype but for regular use, go for switches from a well known brand bought through an authorized seller as the cheapies will look identical often but they use very soft metal and the mechanisms are not failure and quality control tested so can cost more in the end.

Thanks Vaughan! Yeah, everywhere I look I see CF now haha. I’m planning to cover my spectacles and some other items too. Like I mentioned, the CF is cheap and you can get a range of designs and even blue and red which look awesome. I’m considering a red CF switch panel now and will share as that idea comes together. Thanks for watching.

How much resin did you need to do your wheel if you don’t mind me asking.

@@xcellir8 I made this video for others to be able to do it too so ask me anything! I got the 1.5L kit super clear UV with 750ml of hardener and I’ve only used 400ml so far all up for the the projects including knobs and everything. So it goes a long way. I did about 9 (!) coats in the end so I could flat it off. I then used a 2K clear coat over everything at the end to give a hard protective coating over the whole thing too which I’ll share in a upcoming video.

Thanks Norman! Was my first attempt at CF but it’s very rewarding. I’ve managed to find local suppliers for everything so far but did spend a lot of time researching and on YT for sure.

yes It's all coming!

@@sim-racing2277 stoked to see!

@@shaendta23 the CF skinning episode is up!

@@sim-racing2277 oh sweet thanks for the update!! gonna check it out~ hope you like your outcome

well when you do, let me know if you want to bounce some ideas back and forth. It's a rewarding process for sure!

thank you. It's a rewarding process!

Haha Absolutely :) although it’s on a VRS DFP now

Still 3d print junk and that DD wheel base is low end anyways.

@@SIMRIG412 show us your work :)

@@SIMRIG412 crickets...

You alright mate? who hurt you??

Thank you!

@@sim-racing2277 I just noticed that is a Logitech G27 wheelbase, nice. I have done some modding on a Logitech G27 and Driving Force Pro. Here is a video of my game room with the rigs: ruclips.net/video/leMkzR26fTQ/видео.html

@@lifeofasimrigmestizo6910 nice. Yeah I modded mine to death and switched to a DD base but it did last years and I’m no faster on the new base anyway :)

thanks so much!

No it’s a great width. It’s only 10mm deeper than the original wheel. There is a lot of circuitry in there but the lights take up very little space. It’s really because of the wiring. The way to go is to make separate boards for each of the button sections.

No. The amount of labour involved makes it impractical.

@@sim-racing2277 no worries thank you for your reply

Thanks Nick!