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Listen up, Spartan! Changing the oil in your Nissan Murano is a mission-critical task to ensure your vehicle runs smoothly. Follow these steps carefully, and you'll be back on the road in no time. Step 1: Gather Your Gear 5 quarts of the recommended oil for your Murano (check your owner’s manual) An oil filter A wrench set An oil filter wrench A funnel An oil drain pan A jack and jack stands Gloves and rags A new washer for the drain plug Step 2: Prepare Your Vehicle Park your Murano on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Pop the hood and remove the oil fill cap to allow the oil to drain more easily. Use the jack to lift the front of your Murano and secure it with jack stands. Step 3: Drain the Old Oil Slide the oil drain pan under the oil drain plug. Use a wrench to remove the drain plug carefully. Let the old oil drain completely into the pan. Once drained, clean the drain plug and replace it with a new washer. Reinstall the plug securely. Step 4: Replace the Oil Filter Locate the oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, remove the old filter by turning it counterclockwise. Before installing the new filter, apply a bit of new oil to the rubber gasket on the top of the filter. Screw the new filter in place by hand. Do not overtighten it. Step 5: Add New Oil Place the funnel into the oil fill hole on top of the engine. Pour in the correct amount of new oil as specified in your owner’s manual. Replace the oil fill cap. Step 6: Check for Leaks and Clean Up Start your Murano and let it run for a few minutes. Check underneath the vehicle for any oil leaks. Turn off the engine and check the oil level using the dipstick. Add more oil if necessary. Dispose of the old oil and filter responsibly. Most auto parts stores will recycle them for you. Step 7: Mission Complete Lower your vehicle from the jack stands. Ensure all tools and materials are stored away. Pat yourself on the back for a mission accomplished! Remember, Spartan, regular oil changes are essential for your vehicle’s longevity. Stay sharp, and keep your Murano running like a well-oiled machine. Dismissed!

Thank you very much. Yes before rest light please do oil service

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Thank you so much! I'm glad you found the explanation helpful. Your support means a lot! If you have any other questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask.

Both the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system and the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve are potential culprits for smoking issues in a car like your Audi A3. Here's a breakdown of each: EGR System: If the EGR system is malfunctioning, it could lead to excess exhaust gases being reintroduced into the combustion chamber, potentially causing smoke from the exhaust. Common symptoms of a faulty EGR system include rough idling, engine knocking, and decreased fuel efficiency. PCV Valve: A malfunctioning PCV valve can cause excessive pressure buildup in the crankcase, leading to oil leaks and ultimately smoke from the exhaust. Symptoms of a faulty PCV valve may include high oil consumption, rough idling, and poor engine performance. To determine which component is causing the smoking issue in your Audi A3, you may need to perform diagnostic tests or consult with a qualified mechanic. They can use diagnostic tools to check for fault codes and perform visual inspections of the EGR system and PCV valve. Additionally, they may conduct a compression test to assess the overall health of the engine. In any case, addressing the issue promptly is essential to prevent further damage to your vehicle and ensure its optimal performance.

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If you've already replaced the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve on your 2015 Navigator but are still encountering a trouble code, there are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue: Double-Check Installation: Ensure that the new PCV valve was installed correctly and securely. Sometimes, improper installation can lead to continued issues. Inspect PCV System Components: Check the entire PCV system, including hoses, connectors, and the PCV valve itself, for any signs of damage, leaks, or blockages. Replace any damaged components and clear any blockages if found. Check for Vacuum Leaks: Vacuum leaks in the PCV system or elsewhere in the engine can cause issues with engine performance and trigger fault codes. Use a smoke test or other diagnostic methods to check for vacuum leaks and repair them as needed. Scan for Additional Codes: If you're still receiving a trouble code after replacing the PCV valve, use an OBD-II scanner to check for any additional codes. Sometimes, there may be other underlying issues contributing to the problem. Check Engine Performance: Monitor the engine's performance closely for any signs of abnormalities, such as rough idling, misfires, or excessive oil consumption. These symptoms can provide clues to help diagnose the root cause of the issue. Verify PCV Valve Compatibility: Ensure that the replacement PCV valve is compatible with your specific make and model of vehicle. Using an incorrect or incompatible PCV valve can lead to issues. Reset Fault Codes: After performing any maintenance or repairs, use an OBD-II scanner to clear the fault codes from the vehicle's computer. This will reset the system and allow you to monitor if the issue persists. Seek Professional Assistance: If you're unable to diagnose or resolve the issue on your own, it may be necessary to seek assistance from a qualified mechanic or dealership. They can perform a more thorough diagnostic scan and recommend appropriate repairs. By systematically checking these areas, you should be able to narrow down the cause of the persistent trouble code and take appropriate action to address it.

Thank you so much I'm at my end it doesn't show any of the problems that would say the new pcv is bad truck runs good my Mechanic says it may just be age and the 260,000 miles that it has and the dealer is just waiting to break my pockets You can't even tell it's running its so quite

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Hello! I'm glad you found the video helpful. To address your question, yes, it's possible for a malfunctioning Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve to not always trigger a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). The PCV valve's primary function is to regulate the flow of gases between the crankcase and the intake manifold. If it fails or becomes clogged, it can cause various issues such as poor engine performance, increased oil consumption, rough idling, and even excessive smoke from the exhaust. However, whether a PCV valve issue triggers a diagnostic trouble code depends on the vehicle's make and model, as well as the specific conditions of the malfunction. Some modern vehicles have sophisticated engine management systems that can detect certain faults and trigger corresponding codes, while others may not have sensors or monitoring systems in place specifically for the PCV valve. Additionally, if the issue is intermittent or hasn't reached a threshold level of severity, it might not trigger a code immediately. It's also possible for a PCV valve problem to manifest in ways that aren't directly linked to a specific code, making diagnosis more challenging. If you suspect a problem with your PCV valve but aren't seeing any codes, it's still worth investigating further, especially if you're experiencing symptoms like those mentioned earlier. Regular maintenance checks, including inspection and potential replacement of the PCV valve as part of routine service, can help prevent issues from escalating. Thank You

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Thank you for your comment! You're absolutely correct. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve's primary function is to recirculate blow-by gases back into the intake manifold, which helps reduce emissions by reintroducing them into the combustion process. On the other hand, the intake breather hose is responsible for bringing fresh air into the crankcase to ensure proper ventilation and prevent pressure buildup. Both components work together to maintain engine efficiency and emissions control. Appreciate your input!

Thank you for sharing these helpful tips! Regular maintenance is key to keeping our vehicles running smoothly. Changing the PCV valve every five years, along with other components like the EGR valve, air cleaner, and performing an oil change, is a great practice to ensure optimal engine performance and emissions control. Cleaning the MAF sensor with rubbing alcohol is a cost-effective solution, and letting it dry in the sun is a smart way to ensure proper reinstallation without needing to invest in expensive MAF sensor cleaners. Your advice will surely help many DIY enthusiasts keep their vehicles in top shape without breaking the bank. Appreciate your contribution!

A mine car hissing sound can stem from pneumatic or hydraulic system leaks, pressure release valves, or brake systems. It may also be due to ventilation systems. Regular maintenance is crucial for safety and efficiency. Importantly, this issue is not related to a bad water pump.

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Sorry to hear you're still experiencing blue smoke despite using the HF series oil catch can. While the PCV valve and catch can could be potential culprits, it's essential to thoroughly diagnose the issue before considering replacements. Racingline catch cans may offer different features or performance, but they might not necessarily solve the underlying problem if it's related to another issue in the engine. I'd recommend consulting with a knowledgeable mechanic or specialist to diagnose the root cause accurately before investing in new parts. They can provide expert advice tailored to your specific situation. Best of luck in resolving the issue!

It sounds like you might be experiencing some pressure build-up or vacuum-related issues with your BMW M54 engine. When the oil cap filler and dipstick show signs of vacuum, it could indicate problems with the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system or potentially other issues related to engine performance or seals. It's not necessarily "meant" to be like that, as excessive pressure or vacuum in the crankcase can lead to various problems, including oil leaks and decreased engine efficiency. It's advisable to have a qualified mechanic inspect your engine to diagnose and address any underlying issues.

@@CLICKANDLEARN-eo5lz yeah ot was the pcv system some how the rubber thing inside the pcv was split fixed now the a 3.2l pcv and oil catch can that returns back to the sump but since driving the car around with the bad pcv I now have a oil leak to the exhaust side on the face of the engine looks to be a either the exhaust cam sensor oring vanos solenoid ornig or vanos gasket (my opinion as noting is coming from valvw cover gasket

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Securing the alternator bolts resolved your car's acceleration problem, underscoring the critical role of proper electrical connections in vehicle performance. Thank You For Your Feedback!

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We just tried to show a video that is close to the idea. Thank You For Your Feedback!

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Thank You For Your Feedback Sir! It can be a symptoms of bad PCV valve. also It can be Head Gasket Failure, Overfilled Engine Oil, Clogged Breather System, Worn Piston Rings, Damaged Valve Stem Seals or Worn Engine Seals or Gaskets. It is better to contact a mechanic.

Based on the information you've provided, it's possible that the issue you're experiencing is related to the starter motor. Here are a few reasons why the starter motor might be the culprit: Slow Cranking: The fact that the engine cranks slowly, especially in cold weather, could indicate a problem with the starter motor. A weak or failing starter motor may not be able to turn the engine over at the required speed. Battery Drain: If your battery goes flat even after replacing it with a new one, it could be because the starter motor is drawing too much current. A malfunctioning starter motor may demand more power from the battery than it should. Heater Plugs: You mentioned that you've already changed the heater plugs (glow plugs). While this can affect cold starting, it doesn't address the slow cranking issue. The starter motor is responsible for physically turning the engine when you crank it, and if it's not working correctly, it can result in slow cranking. To confirm whether the starter motor is the problem, you can perform a few checks: Voltage Test: Measure the voltage at the starter motor while attempting to crank the engine. If the voltage drops significantly, it could indicate a problem with the electrical supply to the starter motor. Starter Motor Sound: Listen for any unusual sounds coming from the starter motor while trying to start the engine. Grinding or clicking noises may suggest a problem with the starter motor. Starter Motor Solenoid: The starter motor solenoid could also be a source of trouble. If it's not engaging properly, it can prevent the starter motor from turning the engine. If you're not comfortable diagnosing the issue yourself, it's advisable to have a qualified mechanic inspect your vehicle. They can perform more comprehensive tests and determine whether the starter motor needs to be repaired or replaced thank you

@@CLICKANDLEARN-eo5lz thanks. I changed the starter this morning. Fingers crossed.

Thank You For Your Feedback Sir! the blue smoke at idle in your 2013 WRX is likely not due to the PCV valve, which usually causes white smoke. It's important to consult a mechanic for a proper diagnosis, as it could indicate oil burning issues. Safe travels!

Coolant

@@wendy8875 nope was bad valve seals

@@wendy8875 coolant is white btw

@@RacingCoco thanks for the info