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Thanx Sis.

@popsynthyarby5055 I have been building all types of jet engines for almost 50yrs. now and I have to tell you to just take your methodical time dis-assembling and re-assembling this compressor as to not hurry the task and screw up something. Starts out seeming like A,B,C, then patience gets tested. Just work on a bench level and everything will go well. I need to do the exact task again now. I'll Marketplace mine afterwards, this time. No space nor need now. The unit will work like new after the start and run capacitors are changed out, but the 25% duty cycle will have to be strictly respected, or you'll be in the free-time business of MAC5200 capacitor change-out. Good luck. Lemme know how it goes for ya.

@@bltoth1955 Does it have a Baldor motor?

@@Bro_DoItYourself No it's a Dayton 3 horse. This has the three cylinder two-stage pump.

@bltoth1955 Ya know. I've got a single car detached garage and 70+ gal of volume and a 2 cylinder pump, (I made a RUclips vid of that setup), in the floored rafter of that garage. That Speedaire pump and motor are up there. I need to 'Marketplace' mine, as well.

I have found, on this new platform, that Milwaukee has really done a deep dive into the tech/task foray. For me, the M18 line is the working man's reach solution, and the M12 line is for the rest of us, but ... the M12 screwdriver is another 'gap filler'. Personally, I am glad the same Red Link / Fuel tech. has been advanced with the same emphasis on both platforms. On my garage lighting project, I found the M18's were overkill and pretty much stored them after stocking up with the M12 tooling. I will definitely use the M18's on the heavier construction and use the M12 line as the everyday reach-for. I suppose, after decades, switching platforms and brands, we have all been bitten by the choice of offerings bug. Thanks for viewing!

Thanks for the reply mate. Yeah i do find that its a gap filler aswell. Im a mechanic and use the 1/2 and 3/8ths impacts a lot and already got a m18 drill but would like to get myself a 1/4 and the m12s seem to be more what im looking for. Thanks for content mate.

@brighter3539 Ya know? I would suggest the M12 FUEL Surge gen.3. This tool is my choice for all tasks not requiring mass torque. I, too have been a development jet engine mechanic for almost 50 years and have used mostly company supplied SnapOn 3/8",1/2",3/4"&1" drive batt. & air with 1/4" hex drive Bosch 12v and can tell you now, from experience, the M12 FUEL Surge would be the only tool in my home box if I just had one to choose. It impacts and drills with a deftness of finger pressure. An amazing tool. Good luck!

I should have considered renting a press or spending the $100.00 on a Harbor Freight setup, but just don't do enough metal work to justify the purchase.

Thanks for the reality check. That saying: “everyone has a plan until they get punched in the nose” comes to mind. Ha! Love American humor!

Yes sir. Also, time is the cruel joke of life.

That's a big 10-4 good buddy.

Roger that!

Yeah... idonno. Probably starting on a run capacitor, meaning the start capacitor is shot. Does it hum when starting? If not, it may be the opposite situation where the thing is operating on the start capacitor only and the run capacitor is shot. Even though the thing is 110v, the surge will have a long and deep sine. Try it on a 30amp. breaker. Good luck.

@@Bro_DoItYourself yes it douse hum when it trys to start up then runs for like 20 to 30 seconds and trips the breaker so I can start there I guess thank you very much for getting back to me I was lost on what it could be .

@Joe Livefree Gotta tell you, getting to those capacitors is a wrench monkey nightmare. Put it on a workbench. It's gonna take a while. Real pain. Good luck, bro. (Go on and change them both. They're pricey, too. SUX all the way around but when you get them changed, you will respect the duty cycle OR you'll just have to do it all again alot sooner than you'll believe. This compressor is ideal for roofing application, i.e. little puffs .... not continuous use.)

@@Bro_DoItYourself is it worth it to put the two parts in it or get a new one

@Joe Livefree I like all my tools to be in top form, saying that, if you are to use it to function for it's intended use; absolutely. If you're gonna try to use it as a makeshift shop compressor; no way. I have a RUclips vid of a garage compressor that I built that is affordable and as durable as any high end shop compressor for a complete range of tasks with no duty cycle to worry about.

How many years do I have before that happens?

I'm just gonna use a mini D box sub panel with a 25 amp breaker . My house almost burnt down when my water heater kept popping the breaker at the fuse box ,

That sounds unfortunate. The breakers " pop" for a reason. Sounds as if the device was malfunctioning. My use for this application is to disconnect the device for service per NEC regs.

Thank you. Will absorb your info and reconsider as well as implement the other surge locations. Appreciate all the feedback.

@@Bro_DoItYourself you have a very handsome panel there. You are good! Is just that I've seen the whole house protected, yet, at least three times, air conditioning condensers fried like bacon in the backyard. I am not sure how it happens but apparently it travels through the ground or the air instead of the utility wires and it's not until you disassemble the unit that you find the oil leaking and the gaskets melted and it's a mess! My father and I mostly worked new constructions and I was his slave. I had to wire entire houses, but when business was slow we would do house calls. I became a believer at least for an extra one in the condenser disconnect outside the house. I took pictures of the instructions where it reads that you have to twist the hot wires but it does not let me upload them. Back in the day all the surge protectors were for both 120/240v, and you just had to tie the two blacks together for 120v like a furnace. But, we always got phone calls of people breaking them or hurting their knees because they were like a big tumor protruding on the side. So, MARS, which is what we used mostly those days, has one now that is for 120 volts and it's half the size and it's perfect for the furnace. Model 83904, my (licensed contractor) price was $37 in 2022, not sure how much is for the public. The AC one is 83905. Mars is good brand, I know tons of people use intermatic because it has bling and it's pretty, but it's too damn expensive and it's not better than Mars...which is what old geezers like me always used. Good luck, those are Type 1 also, so no need for a breaker, you just put it in the disconnect, avoid double tapping because it's not allowed in some jurisdictions and can loosen the cable and catch fire. Pigtail them. There's a good video by a RUclipsr that is very professional nice chubby guy that always starts the video with the tie and go straight to it and it's the perfect video for this installation, the title is AC Maintenance How to Install a Surge Protector for your Air Conditioner, the channel is ANY HOUR SERVICES ELECTRIC PLUMBING AND HEATING. He is very professional, the video is short 5 minutes and the visuals are perfect and that's the way a professional will do it. Protect you AC at least, remember it's a lot more expensive than a fridge and it's a mess because you need to call someone for the brazing, vacuum, etc.

You can get the same "goodness" of twisting wires ( to get better performance, by improving the impedence characteristics, "artificially" shortening the leads).... by not only twisting the leads but also by tightly bundling the leads with zip-ties. See Mersen study here---> ep-us.mersen.com/sites/mersen_us/files/2018-11/TT-SPN8-Effects-of-Wire-Lead-Length-on-Voltage-Protection-Rating.pdf

Glad to have helped. Good luck.

@@Bro_DoItYourself Do you think it matters to have the surge breaker at the top where the power comes into the box? Be ideal I suppose, I hate to splice wires to move existing breakers. I went with those ferrites too. Added small ones to my remote/sensor wiring for my garage door openers too. Lost a board in one due to a near lightning hit.

@@TheBeingReal The first contact on the A & B phase is the optimal location for the surge protector to function as designed. Anything downstream is protected. Splicing is NEC compliant so my suggestion is just do the work and move that one breaker. Good luck!

@@Bro_DoItYourself Thanks!

I would imagine you've experienced a surge. I would contact Siemans directly to determine if the unit needs replacing.

@@Bro_DoItYourself...Siemens installation sheet clearly says if the red light is blinking but the 2 green lights are on....FIRST check to see if your neutral-to-ground bar is connected. That said, you SHOULD be hearing the alarm too.

Yeah ..... idonno. My bonded ground is at the meter with the other 3 meters on my condo.

Sounds like you just need to add a 20 gallon tank to your existing compressor. This Makita compressor is really ideal for a nail gun application. It has the required cfm for shop air tools but the capacitors cannot handle the duty cycle for extended use. (i.e. little puffs oppose to continuous use.) See my video where I installed a compressor in the garage attic. You can configure for shop use with one tank, smaller motor and pump that would be inexpensive but capable for hobbie use. Hope this helps.

Yes. My garage attic is an oven in the summer. No vent but with the cooling addition and water seperators, does not affect compressor. I need to tighten the now stretched V belts but other than that is working great. Under my workbench is where I had that mobile 20# unit. Now, a powered washer sits there. Thanks!

Good point that has nagged me from the beginning but the wet space branch service compliance has me buttoning up as best as I can. When that drip ear filled the room with misting spray is when I decided to go that route. The only spaces not w/p are the enclosures, (which are probably the most important), but will seal them in some nature. Thanks!

Thanks! When I get back to the job. I will replace the white 1/0 awg that I nipped the end on to fit .... also switch the from the "A" phase. Uhg! Hard headed Scot/German.

A lift. Yes! Getting too old to craw under rigs. My compressor is still 100%. Wife is Pinay so the PI will be ground zero ... Google Philippine electrics ... uhg! God has a plan. We'll see. Thanks for viewing.

I'm at the same age ..don't like lyeing on a creeper....free is good..got this thing on my trailer..so we can slide it into the ground..had to get a installer manual..from globe lift.in il.they were happy to help.me with information..and any parts I may need..and install tips.S.VI..corp.in Dekalb, il...I'm old school.myself..don't trust these new above ground lifts from China..I will be able to work on my 1969 chevy chevelle ss..and work on my other projects..as needed..like you...we guys need our man cave...to chill.

When you said you could talk to your wife ... cave came to mind. Carry on smartly.

My new air comprsoir..is so quite..when it's running my wife won't run out of the shop..I should say...the old unit was so loud. It gave her a headache..I spent 3grand..she,ll hang out a while..if it kick on..I found Saylor-beall industrial air comprsoir..on utube..I had 2 harbor fright in the past..loud and hot running..

Boy! Do I know that. Thanks for the comment.

I wanna tell ya that the added dryer is not going to work in the place of a condenser. The dryer should be attached to the outlet on the tank as the condensation builds up THERE as the air cools from the hot compression. My other video on installing a compressor in my garage attic shows the correct sequence of assembly. I suppose you could go all out and attach a 16 pass auto oil cooler in the place of the dryer in my MAC5200 vid. That would work but ya'd have to cage it to protect.

@@Bro_DoItYourself Thank you for the pic and the info.

I forget. Need to switch out the capacitors and CL this rig. Is for air nailer not garage.

Prolly relating my idiocy. Am gonna Craig List this unit as it is ideally for an air nailer not a garage with no floor space. Thanks!

Yes. Purchase the capacitors as a back-up. Be forewarned: The capacitors involve mechanics experience to change.

Check valve malfunction.

Could have made a better vid but am not adept. Should have gotten the wife involved. Ha! I use this set up all the time and it works without any issues at all. Only drawback is all the monkeying around required but once finished eyeballing the guages is all that's required. Thanks for viewing and Good Luck!

Yep! Was sharing a branch off 240v with heat pump to shop in frigid temps. Roasted the '91 compressor in the HVAC as well on rusted front end Caddy camber bolts. Have a new heat pump and dedicated line to shop now. Hard headed Scot/German. Thanks for the input.

I just pulled one of these bad boys out of the trash at my local lumber yard. Kept tripping the breaker when I tried it out. Motor couldn't get going but after quickly turning it on and off a bunch of times and adding some oil it filled up fast. But then same problem with the pressure up. So I'm guessing it's the start capacitor. Long winded question could you give me the specs of the cap's? Thanks! Also apparently the owners manual says I extension chords. Probably for the reason you stated.

@@wheeltwavel I don't know the specs. But I do know if you use too long of extension cord it won't do anything. You'll turn it on but it will make no noise or even hum, just nothing. Removed the extension cord and it went right back to working..

Will do. Am using inline regulators from quick disconnects on unit set at 90psi while using on projects. Fried those capacitors again when little Speedaire couldn't keep up. Have a new Tube vid on single car garage and attic 5hp. compressor I just completed. Hard headed Scot-German.

Yep. The run capacitor was $90+ from Taiwan. The start capacitor was much more reasonable and available.

@@Bro_DoItYourself Thank you. Capacitors 1/2 the price of a new compressor 😭😭😭😭

@@Bro_DoItYourself Hey there. I just ordered the 2 capacitors. The company is called Parts Warehouse 866 243 2721 Total $128.00 With shipping In case you need another resource. I'm willing to take the chance for that price. Otherwise I would have to go with a new compressor. Thanks again

@Ernest Vocell PW didn't carry the Run Capacitors when I was searching but carried the Start Capacitor for aprox. $50 ea. Got the Run Capacitors from Taiwan for aprox. $90 ea. and 2-3 weeks shipping time. Glad you found a source and thanx for the info. I purchased extras but have to change out again after tearing out the front end of my old Escalade and roasted the capacitors, again. This compressor is made for light duty like framing nailers and plasma cutters NOT hard core impact, scaler/die grinding. Will use just for plasma, etc. after this replacement. Ran a 240v service line from panel to garage for big compressor in garage attic. Good luck!

Ted, I can shoot u the #'s later but they may be on the parts list provided from the vendor with directions and schematics. Parts warehouse, and Makita online is where I got mine. May want to get 2 of each. Backups.

I wouldn't think so but maybe. Would have to dry that air, of course. May work but would not use professionally.

Both the Makita and DeWalt are made for for these tasks but if I were you, I would probably go for the 100% duty cycle Rolair VT25BIG. A couple of bucks more with no burn out worries.

@@Bro_DoItYourself its crazy you mentioned the rolair vt25big because I just came across that compressor and it seems to make sense being 100% duty cycle do you have any experience with rolair or know anybody that does. Curious why you mentioned that particular company and model

@@eddiekytia Research. I got mine for $300.00 and have a stationary 50gal, 230v unit. Am constructing a portable generator enclosure for 50amp service for plazma, MIG/MMA and will use the 110v MAC5200 for air. Am always checking tools, being a jet engine mechanic. If I were making a living using a portable compressor, I would probably go with Rolair but all of the top name brands are worthy. 100% duty cycle is the saliant point.

I truly thank you for responding! I dont know much about air compressors but i now need 1 to run 1or 2 roofing guns or 1 or 2 framers and to go spend 300 to 500 bucks on one.....yea i been looking for opinions but its been hard to get any. I was looking at the rolair 25big because of the 100% duty cycle ( not that I really understood that much about duty cycle) but I was told it means the compressor can safely keep running Non-Stop. I don't know how much psi it will put out while running on just motor but at least it's made to run like that. I really thank you again for your opinion and I'm pretty sure the vt25big rolair will be my compressor. Best of luck with the rest of your endeavors

This unit serves me well but the cycle time needs to be adhered to. I've switched from a satilite 10gal. Home Depot-Husky tank to a 7gal. Harbor Freight aluminium tank as I've blown the capacitors again w/ scalers, air hammer, impact changing out the front end components on my car. I keep blowing out the capacitors because of the addes volume. This unit is made spacifically for your applications with nailers, in particular, not garage work aside a plazma or MIG application. I would choose this unit or yhe DeWalt or Milwaukee or Rigid ... any top brand. On the other hand .... there are a vast array of decent pancake compressors out there, as well but I woild stick to a name brand unit if you are making a living using them. Hope this helps.