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Thank you!

I bought one and it was complete garbage. It had a horrible burning plastic smell right out of the box. I ran it for over six hours and the smell did not go away. I contacted the manufacturer and they refused to give me a refund because I had used it. This company produces poor quality products and they do not stand behind them.

Price is based on features and demand in the marketplace. Not how many corners they cut.

its most accurate when moving not when its stopped

You are my Hero! This helped me alot. Very useful and detailed Video! Greetings from Germany!

My 8 kw heater quit after less than 20 hours use when the pump packed it in. Yes, fuel was filtered. I contacted vevor and customer service had me try to upload a video of the pump NOT working for almost an hour and then said they would get back to me within 72 hours. I ordered a new pump on amazon that will be delivered tomorrow. Also, the manual did not support the controller that came with the unit and it wasn't bluetooth as promised. Be careful when buying and check up on servicing an espar style heater before you buy.

wow, a lot of action just to remove the filament, i think i need to check why filament sometimes doesn't want to comeout when printing

Roger, did you have to remove the bell housing to remove the drive plate? I want to do a similar conversion and I am wondering if I need to pull the entire bell housing and the flywheel or can I just loosen the bolts and sneak the drive plate out the back of the engine.

You said Canadian friend's// hopefully Trump doesn't put tariffs on us..

Hi great project the grinding wheel may running on an angle running from one side to the other of your highest point of your Material squaring the High Point to travel Of the grinding . Grinding wheel wheel.

What do you use to cut out the acrylic

life saver! Thank you so much!

A before and after decibel meter readings would have been great

Do you happen to have the components readily available to where we could purchase them from you?

The original design for this method of lead screw nut production was named as the 'Evanut' The original inventor of this idea tried both 'Delrin' which is Acetal Homopolymer and also he tried Acetal Copolymer.....the Acetal Copolymer was found to be the better choice as it had a more favourable melting/plastic temperature threshold. Also he used a homemade simple threading tap to relieve the initial tightness and achieve a free running fit on the lead screw. I have made a couple of these myself just for interest and they seem to work very well I have also read of others who have made these nuts for milling machines and they report that these nuts have good durability and long service life.

I mean WTF!? I don't even know anyone who has a surface grinder

Very good video. I wonder if you could help me with a problem. I got a clog in my Kobra 2 Neo extruder that is very much like the one you showed in the video. I disassembled the extruder, uncloged and reassembled it. But there is a screw that I don't know where to put! It looks like a M3-20 screw, but it is the only one I found threaded only at the extremity away from the head. It is not threaded all along its length. The only one like this...

Thanks for showing how the spindle comes apart on these. I haven't had any trouble out of mine but I've wondered how it's put together in case I do.

Little grease goes alone way

There once was a man with a corkscrew dick Went looking for a woman to fit his tick When at last he found her At her feet, he fell dead Because she had a left-hand thread

Check your owners manual. I suspect that the spline is a lubrication point. The older belt drive Bridgeports had a spline drive, but nobody ever lubed them so they often rattled too. Fly cutting also pounds the spline pretty hard. I avoid it when possible. Good video! Thanks

A tiny bit of backlash in those splines is 100% normal, but that did seem excessive. Not sure how the grease would matter much. Time to upgrade to a Bridgeport! 😉

Is there a way to grease without disassembling the spindle?

this is how they should come from factory

Glad it worked out for you. I wonder if there's some error introduced by the tension on the belt? Maybe there's a reason those Harig fixtures are so expensive! 😉

Did you consider driving the part by a rubber roller(s) underneath so there will be no need for the drive pin, dog, and jubilee clip. The whole length could then be ground. Having the tailstock center sprung would be a nice addition to help with heat expansion. If you do get taper, the whole unit can be moved at an angle to the rear backstop to fine tune it. This will have the effect of grinding at different places over the part center.

I'll caveat my statement by saying i know nothing. Just an observation. Should the points be aligned not the spindle? You are assuming that both points are perfectly concentric, which i would think it's not the case. Thoughts?

Great work. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎

You need a CO monitor, NOT a CO2 monitor. Carbon Monoxide CO is the killer. Carbon Dioxide CO2 is what we breathe out.

Well done Gilles

Excellent job, I definitely need to make one. Thanks for sharing the plan. Hope you don’t mind me sharing my experience of making one on my channel?

Gilles, I can't remember whether you have a heat treating oven in your shop, but if you do, you could normalize metals before machining them to avoid the unbalanced stress from the rolling mill when you remove material from your part. (Whew! That was a run-on sentence, wasn't it?) Also, why does your mill make those "noises" when using the fly-cutter? I doubt that it is your spindle bearings because it doesn't make the noises when cutting with end mills. Could it be the "tool holder" that you use when fly cutting? It seems awful long. I'm just curious because I want to avoid whatever the problem when using my RongFu-type R8-spindle mill-drill & a fly cutter.

So you bent it taking original gear off

First of all. You have a lot of noise induced by vibration. there is two ways of doing. Decouplic using sound decoupling pads (Elastomers mostly) or ading mass to the cab...

At 9:18, when the grinder is started, the wheel is clearly wobbling side-to-side a fair amount, suggesting that either the hole in the wheel isn't, or one/both of the wheel adapters are out of true.

A lot of work. Did you consider using cast iron and then scraping it flat?

Well done

Excellent job mate 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

I have learned from bitter experience to sneak up on the final od with a file.

Monarch people say just use JD tractor hyd- trans , oil in everything.

Slick!!

Many thanks.

F*ck I just lost the spring Update: I found it yeee

You should invent one that works for aluminum. 😂

Where can one get one of those. They look great!

Looks like it works amazing

I'm glad this video helped SOME people. Honestly though it shows up for me like someone taking one apart for the first time.

Gilles, I just ordered one for the same reason that you did. Thanks for the tip!

Best video ever ❤

Sweet! I think I need one of those!