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There’s no set angle. It’s all dependent on your body and your work holding device(s). Start out with the handles either parallel to the back of the blade (basically bevel down) or the bevel (bevel up) and see how it cuts. Then make adjustments.

@thejointeffort thank you for your response that's helpful

@@osolomeyo3471 Totally!

Definitely! If you follow the link, there should be a materials list that includes that as an option.

@@thejointeffort amazing! Thank you

There's an entire playlist. It covers how to build the horse (mostly by hand) from the kit I sell. Here's the playlist: www.jointeffort.net/build-pinhead-shave-horse Here's the kit (click the "Buy A Kit" page link): www.jointeffort.net/shave-horse-store

@@thejointeffort Appreciate it..I did find what you referenced at almost the same time as you sent the reply. Thanks again!

For a while I was without my intermediate stone and I tried jumping straight to 8K. It felt like it took forever to get the scratches from the 1K stone out. Maybe if I had stuck with it longer and got a better feel for how much polishing I was really necessary, I wouldn’t have needed to stop and check so often. But in the end I think it’s faster to just use the middle stone. If you can’t afford it, then maybe it’s a good money saver.

@@thejointeffort I see Christian Schwarz has those same 3 as well. Makes sense! Suddenly feel the need to spend another $200 on my sharpening setup :p

Thanks! I use 5/8” on side chairs and 3/4” on arm chairs. If your arm chairs aren’t much bigger than your sides, I think 5/8” would work fine for both.

We’re only talking about the orientation of the grain relative to the part it’s being joined with. The orientation to the ground doesn’t enter into it. Unless you’re talking about extreme loads (even beyond what a workbench might have to withstand) the orientation of the grain relative to the ground isn’t really a factor.

@@blueblur6447 I think you’ll be fine with SYP.

Occasionally I find myself wishing for the medium sized shoulder plane and then I have a task that really requires the large one. One day I might buy a medium, but I haven’t found a good enough reason to spend the money on a second plane.

Thanks Chef!

It’s all dependent on the geometry of your setup. I like a pair of knives. One Becel Up for heavy duty hogging of material and another that’s Bevel Down for just about everything else.

Yes. That was my first bench plane. It works well. And I really like the PM V-11 steel that Veritas makes. But over the years I’ve come to prefer the overall design and especially the shape of the handles on the Lie-Nielsen planes.

Thanks Micheal! I’ll be turning this into a mini course that focuses on small stock preparation with hand tools. I’m thinking it’ll be in the $25 range.

Hey Danny! So I think the number convention on the Stanley Bedrock is causing a little confusion here. The 605 is actually a No. 5 Pack Plane. The 6 has to do with the fact that it’s a bedrock plane. So in this instance, I’m using the Jack Plain as a heavy material remover and then the low angle jack as a jointer. In theory, you can use almost any plane as a jointer if the stock is short enough. As a rule of thumb, as long as the part isn’t much more than twice the length of the sole, that plane is big enough to joint the work. I don’t consider the weight of the plane at all for this type of work. In fact, a lighter plane can be better because it reduces fatigue.

​@@thejointeffortthank you for all this information

I think I fixed it. Thanks!

Most welcome!

Hi David! Thank you for taking the time to leave such a thoughtful comment. As you mentioned, I put a lot of thought/planning/editing into these videos to create something between entertaining and instructional. Hopefully many viewers can get what they’re looking for. For those who really want to learn more, I go into more detail on my blog/newsletter: www.jointeffort.net/post/jack-joint-smooth-plane-to-a-gauge-line

I discussed what I as doing with the dividers in more detail here: ruclips.net/video/HlVszbFJ7PM/видео.html

Here's a video discussing feeling for the "flap": ruclips.net/video/A5NCIQokJzo/видео.html

That's a 6" Hamilton Marking Gauge. I sell them on my site... www.plate11.com/product-page/hamilton-6-marking-gauge

I do the same with my two jacks, both Stanleys. One is setup for rough work, the other for medium to light shavings. It saves time on switching the irons and fiddling with the mouth opening.

The short answer is different blade geometry. The old jack has a highly cambered iron. The low angle jack is set up more like a jointer. You can take a look at this video to see how my old Stanley 605 is set up… Camber: How To Set Up A Jack Plane | The Hand Tool Practice: 7 ruclips.net/video/vmNsAyQxUNU/видео.html

@@ISwood4Ugreat answer!

Ah. Thanks to both of you

I discussed the difference between the setup of my two Jacks in this video: ruclips.net/video/A5NCIQokJzo/видео.html

Nope.

@@thejointeffort that’s the one I have issues with. What u decribed

@@acek100 that’s unfortunate. I’ve never used a wood river tool. The only brands I trust are Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen. I would like to try out Melbourne Tool at some point. Doing real tool tests is expensive, though. You’ve got to spend your own money and order through regular channels to trust the results.

That’s all I use is lie Nelson now. I also have some older Stanley planes. It took me a while too learn too get a sharp blade.

Thanks for subscribing. Be sure to subscribe to my blog to get all the latest info and more detailed information about my new videos. www.jointeffort.net/yt

Wow Herbert! Thank you for those generous complements. And I’ll pass them along to Jeff as well. I’m looking for an editor who wants to trade for instruction or furniture or workbench or Shavehorse… if you know anyone that fits the bill, let me know.

Hello Matt! I’m sorry I missed you at Handworks. I hope I live up to expectations when we get a chance to meet in person. 🤣

Thanks Michael!

Time to make some more chairs!

It’s really sturdy. The only thing I’m careful about is being sure to tap the brass (instead of the handle) when I’m trying to lighten the cut. But I’m not sure this is necessary. I’ve had over a dozen students (and Jeff has had hundreds) who have used these shaves (borrowed or brought their own) and no one has broken one yet.

@@thejointeffort wouldn't it dent it? brass is kind of soft

Only if you’re hitting it on metal. It’s much harder than wood. This are good questions. Kind of hard to answer them yourself without using the tool first.

@@thejointeffort Thanks for your replies, glad you like the questions, I guess ideally you'd tap them with a fancy hammer but that is just another item to invest in and take care off, I feel like I wouldn't been able to find it in the shop 5 times out of 10 haha. Plus what I like about this tool is how you can adjust it while working just by taping it against a surface, not need to be extra conscious about it, the hammer would fight that convenience.

@@thejointeffort Hey, I've been asking this question around RUclips and no one seems to be as responsive as you are, so I want to give you credits for that, and I am sorry if I am taking too much of your time, but I'd really like to know what is an acceptable mouth opening for a spokeshave? I know premium brands like LN and Veritas have tight mouths but from what I've seen in the internet, the average spokeshave (including antique ones) tend to have a considerable gap. Also, Paul Sellers says in one of his videos that he is not a fan of tight mouths in a spokeshave since those don't allow him to work any fast. My guess is that at least two tools would be ideal, one with a bigger gap, for coarse/fast work; and another with a tight mouth, for fine work. I'd still would like to know what is acceptable for the coarse tool? What are your thoughts on this? Many thanks in advance!

It's a honing guide. Check out these 3 videos... Which Honing Guide Should I Buy? ruclips.net/video/8nMgj06jjZ0/видео.html How to Use a Honing Guide ruclips.net/video/8ACZur9KxYM/видео.html How do I Figure Out the Sharpening Angles on my Eclipse Honing Guide? ruclips.net/video/NoRI6xOaVcg/видео.html

@@thejointeffort … Thank you so much for the speedy reply. Appreciate the very helpful links.

It’s a lot like this… ruclips.net/video/yNmmOuurGiI/видео.htmlsi=YdcYinUfcJGi0Ei2

Thanks John! Here’s a hint… you might have already seen what I’m about to do.

🤔… might this involve sitting on a 🐴?

At least it’s sharp now… better than breasted and dull, I guess. 🤷🏻‍♂️

That’s a good question. I have only found one person who is willing to commit to a number on this (Mark Harrell from SawSharp). He recommends 7 thousandths (0.007 inches) more than the thickness of the plate right at the tooth line. But this number was given in reference to a finer toothed back saw. I might see if I can chat with him and get his thoughts. I know he’s working on a sharpening book. So he’s probably already got this down somewhere. The best thing I can recommend is to make some cuts. If the saw wanders all over the place, maybe take a little set out. You can do this by putting a hammer, face up, in your vise as an anvil and then lightly tapping the tooth line with a second hammer as you move the plate along the anvil.

Ok. I watched another RUclipsr (Paul Sellers) and sort of combined your way and his way. I bought an inexpensive saw set since … because. Tried this on an old craftsman saw. It took a while, but the saw cuts straight and it sure seems sharper now. Thanks for nudging me to go ahead and try this.

That’s great Jeff! Getting people out into their shops and working with their tools is the whole driver behind my work.

There are a bunch of notes on the blog post about the build. And now that I’ve used it, I’ll probably make a a video on my thoughts and send it out with the newsletter soon.

Thanks Jim!

This is great to hear John! Be sure to take a look at the blog post that goes with this. I gave a little more detail on the process. And if I had to do it over, (this was actually my original plan, but it go my lost in the preparations to film) I would probably try to drill the mortises in the ends and shape the handles afterwards. Gives you a better grip in the vise.

Thanks John! I’m trying to do more showing and less telling these days. If people want to learn more I have a blog and a newsletter that goes into more detail.

Excellent!🎉

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! I have a tendency to over-complicate things. It took a few rounds of planning to get this down to its most simple form.

Thanks Sean! I take my role as an internet educator seriously. It had to be perfect.

Glad you liked it!

Thanks! I’ve been trying out a new style. As far as the project goes… I’m glad you’re curious. I don’t want to give away the final result, but there’s a clue in this video.

Awesome! I'm so glad it helped.

Thanks Donovan!

That’s a 6000 grit Nanohone stone. I was experimenting with using only two stones at that time, but I’ve since gone back to 3 stones. 1000, 3 or 4000, and 8000.

@@thejointeffort Thank you! Wow, thats pretty full on! only use a 1000 and 3000 to sharpen my Japanese carbon steel knives. Going to an 8000 on a chisel is next level!

8K is my SOP. The extra polishing toughens the edge. Knives don't really need that much refinement. So, unless you're a high end sushi master, you're doing the right thing by stopping early and getting back to the fun of chopping and slicing your ingredients.@@jordanc3233

The complete process is just too long to put in a single video. I’m still working on cutting the second part down to keep it within a reasonable length.

Part 2 is on it's way today!

Thanks! And you’re welcome!

🤣😂🤣

Excellent! Let me know when you’re ready to go!

Yeah, that’s a custom ground butter knife. No sharp edges and a wide, flat tip. I’m using galvanized wire to hold the strips together. They either get covered up or cut and removed after the reed dries. Everything is held together by friction. You just need to make sure there’s a good deal of overlap when you add a new strand.