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Hi Mark. Thanks for reaching out. Your theory is probably the only working theory I have left. Yes, I know my temperatures coming back to the stove get low. I already have a decent sized pump, I probably just have too much heat load on the one line I have. I could bypass my DHW to see if that helps. The DHW draws a huge load compared to the 2 air furnaces. I guess I could just be uneducated, but I struggle to understand how the return temperatures would cause such a drastic effect. The cold water is returning to the top corner of the stove, the water is being drawn from bottom, opposite side for mixing. If the boiler is reading bulk water temperature and it doesn't get that low, how could the return temps be causing creosote? In the stove wouldn't matter if the air inlet into the nozzle didn't get clogged. If this is down low near the pump (hottest) why is that location an issue unless it is running down from the top? I'm an engineer by trade, and I just wish I really had a grasp on understanding what is going on. I also wished I had angled my stove back a little so any creosote in the air tube would run to the back, rather than down to the secondary air inlet of the nozzle. I don't know. I'm getting better at getting drier wood, but still no miracles. If your theory is true, though, it sounds like you have a good setup.

@@DanielFarmChannel Daniel, I have seen some outside wood boilers have a circulator pump that just circulate the water in the boiler, maybe they know something we don't. Having your wood against the steel or stainless will cause the wood not to burn good and will cause the wood not to burn down. I think that is why your E boiler has side panels. But why the creosote behind the panels. On my boiler when the boiler is up to temp. the draft fan shuts down BUT the little flapper on the draft fan stays open 1/4.. Maybe this is so the boiler still gets some air to the burn chamber. This doesn't cause the boiler to over temp. even when there is no heat load. I would like to figure this out about your boiler, its a great boiler. In the spring I'm making my purchase and the Crown Royal E looks like a great boiler. Mark

Still thinking. Does your E boiler idle a lot or is it working to maintain boiler temp? It looks like your creosote forms when idling not when it's working. It would be interesting to see when it's really cold outside if you produce more or less creosote. My boiler is under sized a little so the boiler works at maintaining the boiler temp. I have seen in wood gasification that they like to work not idle. Ok after all that I still think your creosote is not from idling it's the draft being closed off to tight. Mark

It's definitely way worse when it idles. That's why I wait anymore until the high is no longer above 45 generally. Note, my E series is from when it came out. They have made improvements such as now you can easily access and clean out the primary air inlet channel. I only wish I could do that. I would keep cleaning that out to prevent the creosote from running into the secondary air inlet for the nozzle. My door seals aren't super air tight anymore, and I always see a hint of smoke coming out the chimney, telling me there is at least a little air flow. Not sure that helps or makes it worse though.

@@DanielFarmChannel Your door seal is very important, you can get some high temp silicone and just put a thin coat on it and let it dry, or adjust the door. The creosote is only where your primary air comes into the fire box. See if fixing the primary draft fan damper so that it docent shut tight. Just watch the boiler temp to make sure the boiler doesn't over temp. See if this helps. My primary fan damper stays open 1/4" after fan shuts down. Boiler doesn't over temp. I am going to talk with Crown Royal about this problem. Mark

Do you mean a hole in the shift quadrant between that and the steering support? I'm almost positive there is but I can confirm later today when I'm at the shop.

@DanielFarmChannel yes. I tried feeding a wire from square opening for lights but it kept coming out the throttle/shutter opening. Thanks for any help

@tractorboy31 so i looked today and there are 4 holes in the top of the shift quadrant. In the center is the hole where the steering support sits, to the left and right is the bolt holes, and in the back left is another hole that the wire goes up through. When sitting on the tractor it's at like the 7 or 8 o'clock position. I assume you have it together so stick your finger back there and you should feel it. If you search 'John Deere B shift quadrant" in ebay, you'll see the holes in the top that way also. Let me know if I can help more.

@DanielFarmChannel k. I appreciate the help. I had to hit the road in semi so be a few weeks before I can fuss again. I'm pretty sure that info will help me out

I'm finally replacing my bat cables as positive had 6" of bare wire under platform and I'm doing all but the alt wire new as im adding fuses for main power and then lights and I didn't like the tail light wire having a twist connector for ac and then headlights splice left and right isn't very good. Some day I want to spray over my childhood rattle can job (basically a top spray) I bought tractor when 13 I'm now 38. Finally giving tractor some love and wanna use more. I'm 3rd gen on my 520. You can see the brush strokes in the paint from gramps. Oh and my B has a nice addition once I get bugs worked out. Live hydraulics added

It's just nice to go to a show and have something to do.

That was probably the worst part of the process. Once you get one out you are golden, but getting that first one is a doozy. With some tapping, I was able to get one of the caps to stick out just slightly on one side. The caps have a little groove in them. I used my chisel screwdriver (you know, the one screwdriver that you hit so many times it turned into a chisel) and worked it around and around to slowly work it out. It took forever. I almost reached out for help myself and watched other videos to see if I was missing something. Once you have one out, tap the shaft to pop the other one out. Good luck. Hopefully that helps.

I had previously coated them in oil the first time I assembled it. I don't believe the manual explicitly said to, but you aren't the first person to say to do that.

How nice are you talking? They make reproduction ones, or at least they did. Not cheap and I hear mixed reviews about their fit up. I know Lind Brothers just parted out a few G's. I'd call them first. After that you just have to keep an eye out on Ebay or Facebook. Someone on Facebook had a right grill only last week. My old G needed that one!

​@@DanielFarmChannel thank you

Agreed. One can get over the money standpoint, but my struggle is typically over the replacement standpoint. If you have to replace the internals of the tractor by parting/taking from a good tractor, you are just robbing Peter to pay Paul. Trust me, I'd love to see this thing go. We'll see what it takes whenever I get deep into it. Thanks for watching.

I absolutely agree. The mechanical technology advances that happened between the early to mid 1900's was mind blowing

Some draw backsc

Love it! I'd love to know more about it. Send me a picture sometime.

I know i skipped ahead from letter series to the new generation. I hope for my next project, other than the D, to be something in between. I'm curious to see the similarities between the late two cylinder series PTO clutches and the new generation powershift to see if one inspired the other. Thanks for watching.

Winner winner!

Not trying to make any wise cracks here, but if you get a true service manual (not the I&T manual) it'll step you through it every step of the way. The differential has the roller assemblies on the acctual differential assembly. The cups and quills come in from the outside of the tractor to support them. Once you have the axle housing off, you support the differential inside. Then from the outside you take out the quills. From there you can rotate the differential out the back of the case. If you email me at DanielFarmChannel@gmail.com I can provide some pictures, snap shots from the parts manual, or any additional help you need. Don't be afraid to reach out.

@ thank you. I do have a shop manual so I will check it out and email you if I have any more questions. your videos have helped me a lot. I was just hoping you had another video explaining this process. thank you so much for all you do on youtube.

@duaneanderson9124 i appreciate that feedback so much. I do this to also help others so it's good to know that desire is fulfilled. The very first video I ever did covered installation of the differential. Check out it. It may also provide the info you are looking for. See link below. ruclips.net/video/NvwOKnx4qgk/видео.htmlfeature=shared

I'm sure you'll have a great experience with it.

So far so good! Thanks for watching!

Yes, it is definitely getting expensive. Hopefully, it'll be worth it in the end. If it wasn't a hi-crop, I would say probably not. It is interesting so far that it has not been exactly complicated work, just tedious like you said. From not doing anything this complex before, the whole Powershift idea had kind of a 'boogeyman' and black box persona in my mind. So far, so good. We'll see when I go to fire it up and put it in gear! Thanks for watching.

@ ya that’s what I thought. I guess I might try going into mine if I had to, I’m guessing though you could probably go through 5-6000 pretty fast. So far you’ve been able to get the parts you need?

@rustyoldjunk I'd have to understand what all yours would need. If you have questions about numbers, just email me and I can maybe give you some insight based on the past couple of months.

@ Ok ya it’s working fine, pressures I checked are ok. Only thing it shifts slow downshifting from 5th to 4th, tractor will stop for a second sometimes.

I don't have this tractor anymore to confirm, but I'm almost positive they were 13.6x38 which is what you typically find on them and was standard.

Thanks for the tip.

It is certainly broadening my horizons and experience! Thanks for watching.

Sweet! Send me some pictures at DanielFarmChannel@gmail.com . I'd do exactly what you plan. Scope the cylinders, make sure the valves are opening and closing, change fluids, and most importantly, make sure you have oil flow. If the clutch lever is stuck that can make it a little more difficult, you are also spinning the pulley, first reduction gear, and single shaft in the transmission. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

This was a couple of hours away.

You can see if you can take the cover off. That'll have a tapered lock flywheel and you may want to see it's condition because they aren't cheap to replace. Back to your question though, you can try and engage the clutch and rock the tractor to see if the pulley spins. If it's engaged and the pulley spins, then the crank is spinning. Lastly, take a screwdriver and try and spin the flywheel near the starter using the starter ring gear on the flywheel. Good luck. I hope to work on a 30 series someday myself.

I had to do a little research to understand where you were even coming from on this. From my understanding, the risk of poisonous gases is in typical houses where you burn fossil fuels for heat and the heat for forced air systems is transferred via a heat exchanger. Copper heat exchangers can crack or have a leak resulting in the gasses from the fossil fuel combustion mixing with the circulating air in your house. Here, I don't have any harmful gasses because I'm not burning fossil fuels. The wood furnace is pumping in hot water which transfers the heat via the heat exchanger to the house air. If my heat exchanger has a leak, it'll leak water, not poisonous gasses.

@ I am planning to install one in my furnace and transfer heat to my garage for heating. In couple of videos it was mentioned that heating copper releases those gases. I didn’t know they meant by burning fossil fuels so it got me worried. Thank you

Does the heat exchanger create any air flow restriction going to your heating vents?

@trikator probably a little, but I didn't have to adjust anything. Compared to when using my heat pump, my blowers actually run way less because the heat coming out is way hotter and so the house warms up faster.

I have always called the cones races that for the bearing to ride on I would call them races

I always screw it up and I've had people correct me. I think i screwed it up here again. For tapered bearings, the roller assembly is the cone and the riding surface is the cup. For ball or straight roller bearings it is the inner and outer race.

@@DanielFarmChannel it's called a bearing race

Even the parts manual calls the tapered roller assembly a cone, the outer part a cup, and any flat roller or ball bearing as inner or outer race.