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Example?

As far as I understand it, each heating zone has its own thermostat to keep each zone at the desired heat

Hi Mr. Rickert, thanks for the feedback!

Hi Mr. Lee, some companies I've heard of are trying to run chilled water through the tubing for cooling. The issue we've had in doing this is trying to control the humidity level in the home. There were condensation issues with the floor temperature reaching the dew point.

Believe it or not, the actual earth temperature below the center of the slab is about the same temperature in a warm climate and a cold climate. The 2" recommendation is a tried and true proven recommendation for heated slabs in all locations. With that being said, it's always wise to check with your local building codes to get their take on insulation methods. As for the wood in the slab, I assume you mean the plywood box? This tiny amount of wood will have no impact on the bearing load of the slab and will not cause the slab to fail. Also, the box can be disassembled after the pour if you have concerns. We do have wall mounted manifolds (that are also shown in the video) if this slab manifold is not appealing.

Radiantec slab on grade is the standard in the South. ruclips.net/video/stOvOxIDRYo/видео.html

I'm not sure what you mean by this. If you go to the end of the video you'll see that the top part of the manifold is cut off and discarded (the pressure testing kit) and the rest of the manifold remains. You then connect a copper or pex supply and return line to it to supply the zone with warm water.

Hi Barron, we didn't include that part in this video because there are a lot of options for how to heat the water. If you want to visit our website and go to the installation manuals, you can see instructions for different options. www.radiantec.com/installation-manuals/ Our control of choice for concrete slabs or any high thermal mass application is a floor sensor. You either embed or surface mount a sensor to the slab and you bring the slab up to the temperature of your choice. We find that this control maintains a very comfortable and stable environment. What we know is that in a well insulated space, the floor needs to be 4-6 warmer than what you want the room to be. So, if you want it to be 70 degrees in the room, you would set the floor at around 75 degrees and then adjust to find that magic number. Once you know what floor temperature keeps you comfortable, rarely will you ever have to adjust the setting.

The system will circulate hot water around 120 plus or minus 10 degrees only when there is a demand for heat. This is actually one of the most efficient way to heat. I install in floor heat HVAC and refrigeration and a customer requested I research this product...FYI once you have in floor heat and it is configured correctly you will never go back. My furnace never turns on in the cold Wisconsin winter. Boiler hot water heat is a even heat. If you were concerned regarding the overall cost of in floor using a boiler, then simply use a correctly sized water heater. In the video they use less than $500 in materials, closer to $350 if you were to purchase it all yourself.

We typically recommend the water temperature to be about 110-120 degrees F. for a slab application.

Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for writing. Heated water should not be run through the tubing before the concrete is completely cured. Once the concrete is cured fully, the radiant heat will have no impact whatsoever on the slab.

HI Dana, we deal with a distributor that has warehouses all over the country. We've had people receive a water heater at their door in as little as 2 days! On a rare occasion when we have to ship one directly from the manufacturer in TN, it could take up to 2 weeks. The Polaris is a great water heater in terms of it's strength and efficiency. We've used them for about 20 years in applications shown in the video with great success. Keep in mind these heaters are 95% efficient, stainless steel, and are vented with plastic.

My home is near Boston. Is there is a distributor / warehouse near me? Would you share whatever info you have. Thanks.

Dana, the company we work with has a warehouse in Worcester, MA. If they have the particular heater in stock you could get it in a few days. Give us a call and speak with one of our techs if you have any questions. 800-451-7593

Not at all necessary. You can buy a right angle attachment for your drill for around $25.

Hi, this is a great question. We send the cold water through the supply side of the system as an important safety feature. We need to make sure the water remains fresh year around, even in the summer when you're not using the heating system. We don't want to rely on someone having to remember to switch valves or a mechanical device that could fail. Keep in mind that when a radiant system comes on, it will circulate warm water for many hours to heat the floor and all of the object within the room. Once the room does get up to temperature, it takes only little inputs of energy to maintain that temperature. Since it takes so long to warm up, it will also take a long time to cool down. You can take a couple of showers and do some laundry and running that cold water through the floor will have zero impact on cooling the room. In fact, what heat the water does pick up gets put back into your water heater so there is no net heat loss on the system by doing this.

We look forward to working with you too! Please let us know if we can answer any questions for you.

We have quite a few heaters. One uses electricity while the others use LP or NG.

Without doing a heat loss calculation, it's difficult to say exactly what you would need for a heater. But, in a newly constructed home, 1 Polaris water heater should be able to handle the heating load, we just don't know which model you would need. The best thing to do is let us work up a free quote for you: www.radiantec.com/pricing/full-quote-form/ Also, the Polaris comes in Propane or Natural Gas, not butane.

Electric is not as efficient as gas and subject to multible malfunctions...