- Видео 7
- Просмотров 10 977
Decee1
Дания
Добавлен 26 окт 2015
Power Profile Kit 2 Software overview + issue
Hello,
I finally got my hands on a Power Profile Kit 2 which I've wanted to play around with for awhile.
Sadly it is not my own device, i just borrowed it from work to conclude the performance.
I'm really impressed by the performance so far, but i did find a issue.
The cache on the device is not being cleared from each meaurement so you get incorrect measurement from each measurement.
But overall the range switching is really fast and the device works really well.
I finally got my hands on a Power Profile Kit 2 which I've wanted to play around with for awhile.
Sadly it is not my own device, i just borrowed it from work to conclude the performance.
I'm really impressed by the performance so far, but i did find a issue.
The cache on the device is not being cleared from each meaurement so you get incorrect measurement from each measurement.
But overall the range switching is really fast and the device works really well.
Просмотров: 169
Видео
Fixing Vaunix Lab Brick Attenuator loose SMA
Просмотров 812 года назад
Just a boring no-audio video of me repairing the SMA on my attenuator. Issue was that sometimes it had RF connection, other times it didn't After repair there is a little bit of losses still, but i don't expect it reaching the 0dB attenuation. My network analyzer is 75 ohm and my cables the attenuator is 50 ohm, i kind of expect that to be the reason that it is not exactly 10dB attenuation thou...
Fixing Asus Xonar U7 blinking LED issue
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.2 года назад
I got my hands on a Asus Xonar U7 pretty cheap used but sadly after using it for some time it didnt' work properly. After some research i found a video showing that if you touch a certain area of the PCB it will make the device turn on. So with my electronics knowledge i try to explain and fix the issue going on the Asus Xonar U7
Teardown fake USB-GPIB-HS from china
Просмотров 3,2 тыс.3 года назад
I bought a USB-GPIB-HS from china because i wanted to replace my USB GPIB Prologix copy i also bought from china. I was curious if the device was a fake or just a used device. Picture used for comparison from: xdevs.com/guide/ni_gpib_rpi/
TDA7492P Bluetooth startup sound EARRAPE
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.6 лет назад
TDA7492P Bluetooth startup sound EARRAPE
I have the same problem with the U5 (it turns on with a warm-up hair dryer). Can you tell me if it is possible to solve the problem of U5 in the same way by soldering the capacitors?
Gave up on mine. The IC is broken. Not worth spending energy on, specially an U5
Probably my Denver BTL-31 at 3 am 💀💀💀💀
My denver BTL - 31 probably at 3 am 💀💀💀💀💀💀:
Thank you! Because of this video, I could fix my Xonar U7. The soldering on my U7 was rather bad so i could simply take these off the board with a tweezer and a little force. Works flawlessly again!
Just removed the left capacitor and it now starts instantly again. Before that, i tried to plug it in on different USB ports on my mainboard. Some worked, some didn't. It seemed like the newer Usb Ports with Usb 3.1 worked while older versions of Usb didn't. Maybe this information helps others.
Chinese also make a fake Keysight GPIB-USB adapter complete with Keysight CD (who knows what spyware you are getting from it). Everyone of those sold on eBay as new is a fake. Mine broke down in less than a year. You get what you pay for. The real Keysight adapter has deep knurling on the tie down screws.
if its working fine then why its fake.
Fake does not mean it doesn't work. Problem with many fake devices is that they might work great but then there are some edge cases where you spend countless hours troubleshooting only to realise it is caused by the device being fake.
If you have a brain doesn't mean you are not a MORON.
National Instruments (NI) has been changing its drivers to recognize fake items and won't communicate with them. A machine with the old drivers will work fine so long as you never accidentally update them. A new installation however is a PITA to get working with fake hardware, as NI hides the old versions of the drivers; iirc you have to search for a hidden legacy installer that can see those versions on the NI servers.
@@pvnbunny I haven't realize it is so tricky, considering it is all very old technology. I need one GPIB-USB converter as I would like to experiment with an old Tektronix spectrum analyzer, which was a gift. There is no waay I am buying an original adapter, as some of them cost I can almost buy a simple spectrum analyzer, hahaha. But I understand, the sellers have those obsolete stuff laying around in a corner, and from time to time some people are obviously willing to pay for it. Maybe some companies with some specific setup's.... I see Elektor has a DIY project, but the cost of that all together could be more then a fake adapter. The question is if I can use that fake adapter with LabView, as I would like to write some GUI for the spectrum analyzer...
still working?
I think no matter it is fake or original, as long as it works for our need, then it's fine to me.
I do agree. I was just very curious about the differences of a fake and an original device.
If you integrated the fake one then sold your system to your customer and commit that you are using the high quality GPIB-USB from NI, you are doing wrong. If you told the customer that you are using the fake one to build the system and your customer is okay with that, there is nothing to concern.
@@bboytyphoonllg i think the price says everything, your customer know if you sell cheaper then they won't expect original.
@@gondala If you sell single part, the customer will see the price but if you integrating to a system, the customer won't know.
It is risky. I have a customer who was using fake one for production. It was running great in the beginning, but later many systems got troubles. At that time, no one could help. Using fake one is putting users into a risky situation. I would rather choose used but fake.
I added a 3.3k ohm resistor between pin 1 (oscillator drive signal) of the CM6632 chip and ground, seems reliable for now even when chilled with freeze spray. I think the transistor in the chip is really weak and unable to pull the line low so this gives it a hand to cross the low threshold.
Interesting! I need to try that out!
The Mk2 uses the CM6632AX chip instead of just CM6632A, I guess it's the same chip but with the issue fixed. And Asus decides that's worth calling it "Mk2", lol
My Denver Bluetooth speaker sounded like this 💀
Hadn't used it for years and today it didn't start (June 2023). Removing capacitors didn't work; warming with hair dryer worked. I write this just for statistics.
I've actually done some digging on the problem on another product based on the same chip and concluded that it is indeed the main chip. Nothing really to do about it. It seems like the only solution is swapping the chip. But as always thy are also really hard to get.
Does it work ok? Does it work with Windows 10? Do you need some specific software to use it? There are several ebay suppliers at around US$100, does that seem to be in the ballpark you paid?
I just (unknowingly) got a counterfeit one from Newegg. It worked with windows 7 NI MAX software, but errored out when I tried to use it with Flukes Met/Cal software.
It works just fine, it just needed the official driver package
LOL It works! I just removed those two capacitors and everything is working perfectly! Thanks a lot!
You are my hero today, finally i know what's happening to my sound card, regards from Spain.
temp low still not work ,
Hey. You need to try reflowing the CM6632A DAC. These two points [capacitors / reflow] will bring this sound card back to life. In the past I had the same problems like you.
Hello there and thanks a lot for the video. I removed both as you've shown and it worked. Does it still work for you after some time has passed? Thanks!
The card start working after deleting of these capacitors, but now I hear "usb device connected" sound every 5-10 sec
my old Xonar U7 was sitting in my drawer for 4 years and you just saved it. didn't even need to heat anything, sharp point metal tweezers from the fixit kit were enough to gouge those resistors out with ease and zero damage. damn.
Amazing to hear! Hopefully it will work longer than mine did!
@@decee1157 How long did yours work?
Mine sadly stopped working again after some time. I've done a lot of hacking, changed the crystal, modified the load capacitors, removed the resistor parallel with each CLK pin, using external generator for clock, measuring different power rails and haven't found anything that would fix it. I even went as far as contacting Asus. Ofc companies don't give a damn and wont tell the actual difference between the "MK1" and MK2 I managed to get to a state where i can put the soundcard into the fridge for 10 min and reproduces the issue What I've concluded doing my debugging is it is indeed related to the IC and not the crystal. If heating either of the top edge corners of the IC the circuit will start operating again but not as easy to reproduce if heating in the bottom of the IC Buying a new IC is just so expensive so i sadly is out of ideas and might give up on mine. I've gone though multiple pictures of the MK2 and the old version and have not been able to find any obvious difference
I will never buy an ASUS product again, that's for sure.
Thanks!! Worked for me :)
1:51 just an FYI, this Power Profiler 2 can NOT be used with 12V, even in Ampere mode. You are limited to 5V max under all circumstances.
Saved me from throwing away this card.Thanks man!!
当你移除这两个之后，冷却一段时间后仍然无法识别。但加热后仍可以正常使用，所以我认为你的判断不准确，应该尝试更换晶振。
Hello. I have actually also faced issues with my soundcard not working again after some time. After 7 months it started with not wanting to work unless i replugged my USB. I actually was considering replacing the crystal but before doing so i was going to try measuring the frequency as i was curious how much it had drifted
I tried this, removed both of them with force, its not broken further but its still blinking... I'm using hair drier to heat it up to function again. I may buy U7's mkii version (I hope this problem does not exist on that)... after all these years no usb multichannel dac out there to top this on price/performance. edit: btw mine has passed the method of just touching on quartz to function several years ago.. now it needs hot air to work. maybe thats why this method didnt work on my device.
Hmm This might actually explain a bit about the issue, that the capacitive load might not be the issue but rather that the crystal actually is poop quality and have to be replaced in order to fix it for some people. Sucks to hear that it was not resolved by using my method. My initial thought of why the hotair works is that the crystal frequency have drifted over the years and as those crystals are sensitive to the room temperature then by blowing hot air onto the crystal it changes the frequency which causes it to start up.
@@decee1157 well nevertheless we are narrowing the issue down. how can I be sure that they didnt use the same problematic quartz in mkii version? last thing I want is to have that issue again after seevral years on a new mkii if I ever have to purchase.
@@AtikBayraktar I'd say they made a mkii for good reasons. It would be weird if they made a MKii and didn't solve that issue
i have an u5 and i have this exact same problem, this shit only works if you put some heat on it
funny thing is i didnt find anyone with this problem on the u5
Thank you, ı had the same problem ı solved the the problem this video. it worked , echolon series is mine
Glad to hear that i helped you fix it.
that noise is common on the speakers
AMEN
blUEtOOth mOdE?
ok boomer
Ok coomer