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Hi. The springs seem to be made to slightly different specs at different times - some are longer/shorter and some are slightly heavier/lighter gauge wire, so that shouldn't make too much difference. I would carefully check each straight section of the retaining wire and make sure it is flat. If there is an upwards bend then one of the flats may not be slipping over the flange when you fit it and when you turn the bezel is basically unzips and the bezel comes off. The other issue I have seen is that the flange on the bezel can be worn or damaged, and the affect is the same. As you turn the bezel the wire slips off at the point where the flange is worn and then the rest follows as you continue to turn the bezel. If that is the problem then the case would need to be repaired by someone who does micro-welding, or find a new case - they do come up from sale sometimes.

Thanks mate! great to hear that - I will quote you on my Instagram!

You are very welcome.

Hi, apart from the balance, hacking lever and split stem all parts are the same and compatible with non-hacking, non-military movements, although obviously the bridges have different finish and markings. I service these week in, week out and have a good stock of parts and many parts are still available from the watch materials houses as well. If you want to me to look at it for you, send me a private message via Instagram @sumacwatches. Cheers

Many thanks! Glad parts are still available or at least obtainable.

Hi, yes the crown gasket can be replaced.

@@sumacwatches6149 thanks so much , do you know the size ?

@@MagWatchTime should be 4.50 x 3.00 x 0.75mm

With difficulty. You either spend a fortune on a very expensive bezel removal tool, like the Bergeon one - the cheap versions on Amazon tend not to work, although some people have had success with them. Generally I carefully lever them off with a stanley knife blade tapped in between the bezel and case, protected with a bit of polythene. Start between the lugs at the 6 position and as the gap opens up, work your way around and after a while it pops off.

The original crystal is 31 mm x 2.5mm. However, if you have to replace the gasket then you may need to adjust the crystal depending on the inner diameter of the gasket. Bezel insert dimensions are 37mm outer diameter and 32mm inner diameter as close as I can measure.

@@sumacwatches6149 muito obrigado tinha medido mais eu achei que tava errado vc me salvou

That could be a different video! There is a bezel removal tool which is a large set of pliers with nylon/composite inserts that is widely available, but unless you buy an absolutely top end one (Bergeon = £715 +VAT) then they are not much use against a CWC diver bezel. The most practical technique is to open up a gap by gently tapping in a thin knife blade between the case and the bezel and then widen/extend the gap with a case knife - taking extreme care not to damage the case. With lesser watches this approach could distort the bezel, which would then need to be straightened, but the Monnin-type bezel rings are pretty sturdy so this is a less of a risk. Once the gap is big enough the bezel will pop off. If you are working on an SBS then there is a risk of damaging the PVD coating, so I would say if you do not need to remove the bezel, leave it alone.

Thank you! I don't know anyone in your area I'm afraid. If you are prepared to navigate the import/export stuff you can always send it to me and I can fully strip, clean, service and regulate the watch for you.

@@JosFiner Thank you for your quick reply, I will contact my local customs office, to find out if they have a temporary export option, for repairs, so that you or I are not exposed to import/export duties. This watch has a sentimental value for me, as it was the first chronograph I bought abroad from a brand that was not loved by local jewelers stores or watchmakers at that time period in my country.

@@JosFiner I inquired at customs, there is an "Outward processing form" available mostly for businesses (+ broker fees + VAT on repair and or import duties on the repair). I can of course book 2 holidays in G.B. :-)

They do use Ronda movements now. They were introduced in divers from 2022. The majority of CWC divers produced such nice 1983 have ETA movements, and 100% of pre-2022 production, including all issued CWC Royal Navy and SBS divers.

Thanks very much indeed. The issued 1990s issued RN divers have 'Brevet 503305' stamped inside the case back. The 1985 RN diver has additional text underneath - ' MRP SA', Stainless Steel', Swiss Made', and 1017. f65-85 - not sure if the last number is common to the whole production run. The SBS watches also have ' Brevet 503305'. Don't know about the 1983 RD diver (would have to check) or the pre-quartz divers.

British English. www.quora.com/Are-counterclockwise-and-anticlockwise-the-same#:~:text=%C2%B7%203y-,Is%20anti%20clockwise%20and%20counterclockwise%20the%20same%3F,is%20an%20American%20English%20term.

@@sumacwatches6149 That’s weird. Generally us Canadians lean British English over American English.

@@j_holtslander Now you know to never question a Britbong's English.

It'll be the same process

Thank you Chester! Too kind.

You are welcome!

Hi, I'm not familiar with that particular watch but if the back is not removable then, yes, it will be a 'front loader'.

Very please to hear that! Well done for fixing it.

The correct size is 30.6.

@@sumacwatches6149 THANK YOU!!! So like a Sternkreuz 306 with chrome ring? Mine appears to have chrome ring in there now.

Yes, that will do it. The original tension ring was matte but these are unobtainable. If you can get the supplied ring lightly bead blasted that will gie you the correct finish. Failing that go over it with some 3M abrasive pad to give it a more brushed finish and that will take the shine off it.@@patrickhewitt14

@@sumacwatches6149 thank you, thank you, thank you! Ahhhh I really really appreciate this!!!

You would have to cut them off and then drill the lugs to take spring bars. People do this sometimes but the fixed bars are a feature of the watch. Removing them devalues the watch and so most collectors would leave the fixed bars in place.

That works great 4me, thanks !

Hi, I have back gasket, and the two gaskets for the crown (round gasket and flat gasket).

You have them for sale?

I can supply a set yes. £15 plus postage from UK. You can contact me via direct message @sumacwatches on InstaGram.@@phobia97183449

Thanks you very much Dumitru. Wobbly crown could be missing crown gasket, or just very worn/perished gasket, could be missing friction-fit washer that holds the gaskets in place inside the crown, could be wrong diameter crown or pendant tube. Loose/word joint between the two halves of the stem will not help, but would likely result in the outer stem/crown coming detached quite easily as well.

@@sumacwatches6149 I knew that your experience would play a big role here. Thank you so much for the answer! Is it feasible to find a gasket somewhere, or a whole crown assembly maybe? I could try contacting the current CWC company, but not sure if they would be able to help with the 70's model parts.

@@dumitrugulipe731 Sorry for the slow reply Dumitru. The original crown has a double gasket (i.e. two o-ring gaskets, one on top of the other) and they are quite fiddly to get out, but there are replacement gaskets available. Replacement crowns can also be sourced, but will need a new outer stem as they have a different tap size for the stem thread, and the new outer stem then needs to be trimmed to the correct length.

@@sumacwatches6149 I have actually taken out the crown using your method and it did not come off easy, so the joint between the two halves is ok. What I have seen upon inspection though is that the pendant tube is Inna good shape, no scoring or signs of use and the crown seems to be of the right size (5mm outside diameter), however I couldn't see any gaskets on the inside of the crown, it's empty (I have taken pictures and compared to a Hamilton W10 crown I found for sale) and I think that this is the actual problem with mine and why the crown is wobbly. Do you maybe know where I could get some replacement gaskets please? Thank you in advance!

Are you in the UK?

Step 1. Retaining spring must be completely flat. Put it on a flat surface to check. bend the spring wherever it is not flat to correct it. Keep going until it is touching the flat surface all the way around. Step 2. When it is fitted the angles of each section should touch the back of the recess into which it fits. Again, bend the spring at the angles until each of the angled bends is touching the back of the recess. It takes a bit of trial and error. Step 3.Make sure that each straight section does not project out too far from the inside of the bezel - just slightly is correct. If necessary, bend the straight sections so they sit further back (this will mean doing step 2 again...).

@@sumacwatches6149 Thanks! i flattened it and with some patience, some glasses to fix my sight and some watch tools i succeeded!

@@joypadretro2797 Hooray! Well done.

@@sumacwatches6149 Thanks chap!

How to get the bezel off of the case? My bezel is turning freely and need to fix it. Tried to pry it off but there seems to be no gap to place a tool in.

The end that has a 90 degree bend will always point away from the bezel so that it can fit into the hole in the watch case, which means that the spring can only face one way. If it keeps popping out it may need to be slightly re-shaped so that the ends fit into the slots in the underside of the bezel.

Thank you! It's an ongoing process of upgrading kit - it never ends!

@sumacwatches I spent 50 years in the building trade Jos and have so much kit from that trade. Really enjoy going to a totally different scale of work gear though.

Thanks Tim

Thanks, much appreciated

Hi, yes, you need a crystal press to get the back on again. Have a look at our latest video as this does have some advice on crystal presses, and in particular the type to avoid. You don't have to spend a fortune for a decent one - this one on Amazon one £25 and would be fine - www.amazon.co.uk/Quartz-Mineral-Crystal-Fitting-Repair/dp/B09H5YGHC9/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=watch+crystal+press&qid=1679903382&sr=8-38

Not really.

@@sumacwatches6149 perfect timing iv just got the watch it has a bezel insert that I can remove that holds the glass in place the only thing it looks like it’s missing is the hole at 12 o’clock

@@neal7159 May have a ratchet washer/plate instead of spring. It will be a flat circular plate with small tabs sticking up, that sits under the bezel. Replacing the bezel is the same principle though, push and twist.

Hi, sorry for slow reply. For friction ball buy Bergeon brand - you can get from Amazon and they are quite cheap. Batteries are covered in the video on CWC diver battery replacement, although the later divers with ETA movement have a slightly different set up inside, and the more recent watches have a Ronda movement. There are no internal components other than battery that should require replacement in the field. Silicon grease may be handy to re-grease the case back gasket if the back is removed for battery replacement.

Sounds like it was well stuck on! Yes, you need a good crystal/case press to snap the case back onto the mid case. There is some information on crystal presses in our newest video.

Next on the list! Will show case back removal, stem extraction and removing movement from the case. Should be up with the next week or so.

Thank you!

Hi, sorry, didn’t see your comment. Contact me via Instagram and I can help you if you still need one.

@@sumacwatches6149 OK 👍