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@@caduswadoh uh oh! Sorry to hear that! It was definitely worth a try fixing it. If you are still interested in repairing the baby swing, Graco sells a replacement motor unit assembly that is basically the entire top half of the swing. It’s relatively cheap, I paid around ~$30 for it

@@victork3397 I think the fix is going to be a piece of string and attached to the treadmill arm exercise bars at the correct height. Can exercise and rock a baby at the same time. 🙂

@ there you go!

@@adamzalewski7746 thank you for the feedback!

@@Sammy2012ify lack of oil isn’t the issue, there is rust buildup between the rotor and the stator. You can disassemble and clean it up with a wire brush. It will work. These units however are under a parts and labor warranty for 1 year minimum, so we swapped it out.

@ I understand!

@@Guyhakverdi Design flaw that Lennox refuses to admit. Says it’s the motor manufacturers fault.

@@tobiasraether824 a clean filler is not the only thing that affects airflow. Make sure all supply registers are open and the return registers are free and clear (no blockages). If you have those small filters people like to stick in the supply registers, remove those. If you’re able to get eyes on the physical ducting and trunk lines, make sure nothing is crushed/damaged. If you have an air filter at the furnace (whole house filter) you should not have any other filters installed. Do not double stack filters. Testing gas pressure is more intricate and is done at your own risk. I would not advise this unless you know what you are doing. If the furnace ran fine in the past, then it most likely isn’t a gas pressure problem as the manifold gas pressure can only be changed manually. However if you had a recent service, or a gas valve changeout, then I would question the manifold gas pressure. If you do not have a manometer, then another way to check gas pressure is by checking consumption via clocking the gas meter (many videos on RUclips about this) and comparing with the furnace data plate. Taping the insulation is quick and easy, a worthwhile test in my opinion.

@@E.P-d9d that’s awesome! Glad to hear you were able to fix it!

@@Cow_95 I’m glad you found the video useful! Definitely something more technicians should be aware of.

@@NeilPopovich HVAC foil tape will work. Available online and at big box stores

@@pavel0900 I used the zoom spout oil, commonly called “turbine oil”. It is just a mineral oil. Search O’reilly auto parts for “Pure Guard Non-Detergent Motor Oil 30W 1 Quart - ND30-QT” and you will find a good oil to use for electric motors like this.

@ Thank you so much! I appreciate the detailed explanation. I have a 10 year old Carrier furnace, that started to produce high pitched sound recently. I have a feeling the lubricant has dried up. I beat myself up for not acting sooner as the warranty literally was two days past expiry. New motor would cost $1,400 on Amazon or $3,400 from the company that installed the furnace in the first place. I want to see if I can still salvage it, before spending thousands of dollars on replacement. Again, huge thanks, and Merry Christmas!

@@pavel0900 if it is a PSC motor, an aftermarket motor will work. Just make sure the voltage, horsepower, RPM, number of speeds, direction and physical size are the same. You don’t need to have the same motor. Most carrier motors have a built in bracket. You can buy a generic belly band bracket and put in a generic motor. Just follow the same wire color code they used and take pictures.

@@victork3397 thank you so much! I’ll be sure to follow your advice.

@@erin5115 It doesn’t hurt to check and is easy enough to verify. Remove the actuator motor and move the dampers by hand. It should get colder/hotter as you move it back and forth.

@@erin5115 also front and rear air vents have their own actuator motors. This one is only for the front vents.

@@victork3397 I will look into it and see, thank you!

@@PocketFullaPesos those are very rarely bad. Replacing it wouldn’t fix anything as the underlying problem would still exist. Have you verified manifold gas pressure is correct using a manometer and checked airflow?

I have a clogged secondary htx… hi eff bryants seem to have this issue quite a bit. Just something to keep in mind. Hopefully that isnt your issue

@@fatkat311 a clogged heat exchanger possibly could cause the high limit to trip. If it is a clogged HX it is obvious because there will be a very foul smell coming from the furnace exhaust when it is heating. If that’s the case, the furnace needs to be shut down and repaired before operating again.

@@victork3397 i have an 80k btu bryant manufactured 2010 with constant rollout trips. I disassembled the htx and found the secondary is rusted and 90% clogged. I’m getting enough draft through the heat exchanger that my pressure switches are still making, but not enough for the flame to make it into tubes all the way. Bryant recognized This is a manufacture defect on the heat exchanger and since changed the part number and extended the warranty. I was able to go up to my local Hvac Shop and pick up all the parts at zero cost. I’m actually on my way up there right now.

@ I’m surprised the hvac shop is giving the parts to you. I’ve never heard of that happening before. Usually they won’t give you the parts unless you pay to have their technicians install it.

@@quarantainment293 not sure what you mean by mirrored. I got them from a local supply house. What is your furnace model number?

@victork3397 it was my mistake - the side that the squirrel cage goes on had a groove. I thought the star washer went in that groove. When I took a look at the original, the groove was definitely on the squirrel cage side as the hex bolt indent was there.

@@quarantainment293 ah gotcha! Glad you got it figured out.

@@oropoucheminimart9473 lookup the model online, you should find it

@@mohammadsiddiqi6573 yes absolutely. Furnace drops power to thermostat when furnace overheats (error code 33). Circulator fan will run non-stop to cool off furnace. Fan only shuts off during trial for ignition.

@@kaylaelizabeth6220 5x Phillips head screws need to be removed from the bottom of the unit. 4 are on the "rim" and one is directly beneath the battery compartment. Do not remove the hex screws on the rotating part, you will not be able to reassemble it if you remove these screws. I had to cut out the disassembly to keep the video short.

@@dudebro21 just your average technician here. Glad you found the video useful.

@@Final_Fanatix I would not say diodes are redundant. Diodes are to keep current flowing one direction, and can burn out from internally failing (shorted diode), overcurrent (another bad component down the line drawing too much power) or over voltage (high incoming voltage/power spike). Was the swing plugged in while you were soldering? If it was, the circuit got energized by the soldering iron and had a reference to ground through the power plug. Most soldering irons are AC voltage, usually 24-120 volts.

@@user-w395 why remove the passenger seat? No need to, just push it all the way back.

@@BrianPearsall standard 1/4” hex head HVAC screws. Available at Home Depot

@@victork3397 thank you

@@jacobmillard7792 poor quality control too.

@@innalitvinchuk1002 it’s definitely worth fixing, maybe ask someone who is good with electrical to take a look at it. Could be a bad connection, or a defective water valve.

@@Lubar0220 yes, you’re right. The blue cable does go to the engine compartment

​@@victork3397hello one more question, thank you very much for your previous reply. The blue cable is attached to a plastic arm that is also attached to the blend door rod. What is that part called or possibly part number I cant find a replacement

@@Lubar0220 I’m not sure about the part number, but you should check the local junkyard to see if you can’t just get the one piece. Usually just a few dollars for small pieces like that. Try self-serve places, they are more lenient to buying just a part of an assembly.

They also made or maybe still available pressure test kit for the heat exchanger essentially this would if i remember correctly screw into where the spark plug goes and i beleiev.youd jave to remove the fuel flapper to prevent damage . Varifying the heat exchanger would hold a set amount of pressure/time I think like 4psi over.15 min:).

@@302COYOTE oh wow yeah heat exchangers are no longer hermetically sealed like that

Interesting is there a brand that you used?

In your case I would suggest you buy the replacement motor unit from Graco, part number 1910135. I paid $32 after shipping and taxes. It beats buying an entire new swing. By the way, the motor unit is the entire top section that the swing rests on (with the pipes included), so very minimal assembly required. Hope this helps. -Victor

@@leslie-annepepin8927 there’s a few screws and clips you have to remove. This one’s for a Mitsubishi, but the same idea. ruclips.net/video/6NsW8_IZLaw/видео.html

@@vltree yes I used a crimp connector. You can find a set of terminal crimp connectors at your local hardware store. I cut off the section where the wire inserts and used that. (Instead of buying specialty barrel crimp connectors) You can also solder, but you have to be quick because you can blow the thermal fuse if you heat it up too much.

@@victork3397 Thanks so much for the info! We're going to try it this weekend.