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In the whole video I played a lo-fi playlist :) I actually was listening to it while playing

Thanks for the comment I appreciate ! I still do, but I only stream these days. Check my channel on Twitch: www.twitch.tv/onilink8

Actually nothing measurable :D The legend says it helps putting straight from greenedge or off the green above 65%, but it actually has almost no effect. (so don't spend millions trying to fit your putter in stamina - it won't help your game) Stamina is in fact more useful in other instances... doesn't mean you need to add a single point in that stat though :)

In fact: even with 100+ stamina, you will still hit shanky putts from outside the green.

@@RMBNTR interesting .. what would you say is the best maximum value for strength and impact for high level players levels 170+ maybe 50 skill and impact of about 70?

No unfortunately, but I have content in English. And I'm planning to remake these videos in a shorter format in English later this summer :)

@@RMBNTR could u just show an example for me in a formula with numbers, for example i want the ball to land 400 yard and there is a hundred percent tailwind 3.0m/s , with 8i for example. Thanks for your time:)

Thanks man :) more to come

@@RMBNTR i would love to see that (: im going to dig through your whole content for sure. now we only have to convince fedi to comment on his rounds, too =b

No, I'm not David_Duval, but we're in the same guild on FR^^ And about the language I did those videos quite a time ago and just wasn't expecting so much demand from the whole community compared to the FR community; that's the reason why I'm planning to 1) divide in shorter recorded/edited videos (that one was done live to promote interaction) so that 2) I'm able to put English subs in my next tutorial videos. It will just demand me much more time but at least it will hit all targets. I'll redo those 2 guides in a shorter format one day, but it isn't my priority as I have many more "basic" non-math topics to talk about first. My studies just don't let me much time at the moment so I guess I'll have a busy SO summer :)

It's among my many projects I have to find time for ;) There's stuff I have to post since 2 months ago that I still haven't finished. not easy at this period of the year for me as a student. I already have done videos on this topic in French but I'm looking to remake tutorials and informative videos that are subbed in English in a shorter format, in order to make them understandable for the bigger part of the community

Thanks for the support :) Looking forward to the next tournaments on DE server, to begin with Bundesliga Pokal Finals next weekend :)

Happy that you enjoyed ! I wish I could play friendly or competitive rounds against players from all servers to be honest :) Someday that may happen !

@@RMBNTR if you have the time only if you have the time. Could you please break down the game. Ie explain how you aim using 6 or 9 hole game for those of us that are struggling. (Me) lvl121 toon just newly back from 4 year down time.

@@gordonleach5887 That's the kind of stuff I'm planning to make in the future, and maybe remake my past guides in a shorter format in English or subbed in English

If you're asking about what sheets/charts/calculators etc., nothing :)

@@RMBNTR if that's truly the case, I'm never playing again And I've been playing that damn game since it came out

@@walterjeffreys40 Why would you stop playing because of this video or the fact I use or don't use any sheets or charts while playing ?

@@RMBNTR just because I am not anywhere nearly as good

@@walterjeffreys40 Then I hope I can bring you some tips through my gameplay streams & videos. First step is to figure out what you do wrong and how you lose strokes. As you could see in my videos, I always analyse my own mistakes. If you're willing to improve and shoot lower, there's no reason why you wouldn't

If you looked at the US leaderboards, that's normal because I'm not a regular US server player. You can look at my leaderboard scores on FR website :)

It's getting tough for me to have time to stream once per week but I'll keep doing that as much as I can :)Thanks for the comment

That's how you can say it, I see what you mean

thanks for bringing me back to this video as well :) So bad WP went in a wrong way very quickly after the beta came out

Yeah last year during my June streak (I was showing 2018 Q2 not 2019^^) I think he played once and missed and didn't play the other weeks so of course that makes things somewhat "easier", but of course it's still hard to beat all the other guys haha That streak would've been nicer and more satisfying if I had beaten more top guys like Fede, narr, kidiki... in those 3 tournaments of course, I'm aware of that :) Absents are always wrong anyway

mario montero he streams on twitch if you like to watch him, twitch.tv/onilink8

yeah I've been streaming again since a month ago, and for the first time in English, anytime I have some good RUclips material I'll upload from my Twitch to my channel here :)

Yes and no. Yes, from 28 and higher the displayed value on tee-fairway is 99% but from what I experienced those minimum values are rounded or shortened numbers, the impact of each stamina point is normally progressive. I guess that's 99,00% instead of 98,x for 27 stamina and below. I can feel the difference between 27 and 16-18 or 50 and 28 stamina much more than 27 to 28 (actually I don't feel that much of a difference), from what I tested. I would need some more testing to be sure about that, with exactly the same pixels on the gauge and a lot of strokes at the driving range

but of course don't put more stamina on your own, unless you have huge stats like me you might want to add some more stamina if you don't care about having 10 more or less skill points for example. Stamina effect remains VERY little, you need a lot more stamina to really feel a difference or if you play the same shot a lot of times in SOWC for example it might be interesting to carry a Taurus

@@RMBNTR Thank you this is very helpful

I've been streaming on Twitch again in both French and English at the same time for a couple weeks now, because it looks like a lot of non-French speaking guys are interested. I recommend you to check it out, and don't hesitate to ask me questions there :3. Some replays of those English streams will be available on my RUclips channel (for example WRT good performances, records when they happen and when I record the rounds, etc) Maybe if I have enough motivation some pre-recorded tutorials will come out but the language is unsure (it's already difficult to explain some detailed tricks in my native language, it might be even more confusing in English^^)

@@RMBNTR I have subscribed and from what I have seen I am finally truly starting to understand SOL weather thanks to you. I am only lvl 116 but was 107 a few weeks back when I started playing again. In the last few days after watching some of your videos I managed to do -15 on Gleiger. -19 on PGI, -29 on Sosori and -23 on Cadeiger - broke most of my handicaps so thanks very much. I need to study putting though - drop far to many needless strokes. As an engineer I can appreciate your scientific methods and glad I finally found someone who does understand the game mechanics. Will continue to watch when time permits. My character name is Luminus and I am on Vallar.

The aim circle already takes elevation into account. But the wind formula doesn't. When you play for example a +20m elevated hole, your ball will fly less time, thus is a bit less influenced by wind. That could explain a part of the error when playing downwind (especially with a low club, like PGI #5 with a 5W or so), but what about neutral/head winds ? I think you underestimate the impact of elevation on your bounce length and generated backspin. When you play an elevated green ball will bounce shorter and spin back more (understand: you often have to pitch closer to, if not right at the pin distance). Sometimes you'll even have to bounce behind the flag (thus play longer), even if you play with a lot of topspin (HF #1 is a good example) Down elevation is overall easier to play than up elevation imo. Wind effect is slightly greater (or a lot greater if you talk about CTR #1^^), but you won't have issues like on CTR #14 or SB #1 when you play with a wood/driver (and especially with tailwind where the shot to the green is kinda tricky), and a lot of uphill par 5's/long par 4's you have to play with a lot of spin (SB #9, Wattsu #5, etc), and a lot of Dino Park holes. Elevation effect is overall progressive, for example +5m and -5m are nearly ignorable but it can make a difference between a good and a perfect shot (as well as a slight green downslope or upslope)

@@RMBNTR Thanks a lot, that explains a lot about some of the holes but not all. City park royal hole 4, even thought it is 30+ up versus City park royal hole 13 with only +10 up. I always hit too much power on hole 4 while the hole 13 always fall behind and spin pack to fairway (let's not count the wind here). It seems there is another factor not just elevation on these two holes?

The maths for the aiming clicks are correct, but of course I only wrote down some key values, I actually use all the values inbetween, ranging from 0,5m/click to 1,3-1,5m/click depending on the ball trajectory (from a high trajectory SW/AW shot to a driver or other very low shot) Keep in mind that playing lateral spin affects the aiming; lateral spin + tailwind or slow weather condition (rain/clouds/freezing...) makes your ball turn more, and with headwind or BearLake climate it makes your ball turn less :) Take the elevation in account as well, wind effect is higher on a -40m shot than on a +30m. Also pay attention to aim where you want to LAND your ball before clicking for wind, not where you want the ball to stop (for example: Gleiger #10 right pins, you want to land more or less to the left of the flag, that's your actual aim before doing anything for the wind). This is very important since those maths are only for the aerial wind influence (not its influence on ball spin thus on bounce + roll)

@@RMBNTR Thank you so much, that explains why sometimes I have to add more click.

As far as I remember, I quickly mentioned that could happen (in French of course, so you probably couldn't understand) without explaining why, it would have taken me too much time and the video is already way too long (that's because I tried to do it in live stream to answer to eventual questions live) Actually you may have to add sometimes extra yards with tail wind as well as with strong head wind, and that because the wind maths I presented in the video are NOT really accurate (this does NOT affect weather compensations like rain/freezing/snow... which really work that way), I made them easier to be used with 45s-timer. The reason is: when you have e.g. a 10% headwind and 400y to play (400y to play = you want to land at 400y, not to stop your ball at 400, so that we speak about the same thing), you have to add 10% of the target distance, so 0,10 x 400 or 40y (aiming circle at 440y then). Actually it's wrong, you have to do: 400 / (1-0,10), so 400 / 0,90 and that's 444,4 but it takes a few more seconds to figure that out without any external aid :) The difference looks tiny but it can be a lot on the course (bad bounce or green missed) However, very often you want to add a lot more topspin with such winds, for example if you hit a 8I with a lot of ts, it makes it fly as low as a "flat" 7I or even 6I (wind influence would be a bit lower than with a "flat" 8I). Most of the time the math simplification and that fact nullify each other so the result is very close to what you expected, but sometimes it isn't, especially when you hit a no-topspin shot or a spin that barely changes trajectory height, such as a SW ts or a wood/long iron you can't put topspin with. Easy to compensate though, 1 or 2% more distance or a 101-102% on the gauge... ;) Now the reverse example with a 10% tailwind and 400y to play, you have to withdraw 10% from the target distance (400 - 40 = 360). Normally it should be: 400 / (1+0,10) so 400 / 1,1 and that's around 364 (363,6 actually), almost the same difference for the same target (+4y). And here things become harder. Sometimes you want to add extra backspin, ball flies higher and is more influenced by wind thus the +4y difference is compensated (/!\ sometimes over-compensated especially with negative height difference), and sometimes you want to take benefit from the bigger bounce + roll and play a flat shot or even topspin with tailwind; in those situations you have to take the 4y difference in account or just hit it stronger than 100% :) In reality people often understimate bounces and spins on the green and play too long with tail wind, especially when they have to aim in OB/water/void so that common error would rarely leave players too short with a lot of tail wind, and hardly never with rain/clouds + strong tail wind :) NB: the difference between the "right" calculation and the easy math increases "exponentially" with wind force. if you have a 20% tail wind (which is VERY rare of course^^ only seen on holes with 7m diagonal wind or 5 to 6m almost straight downwind, and an AW or SW in hands) with 400y to play, easy math: 400 -20% = 320; true math: 400 / 1,2 = 333, that's a 13y difference instead of 4y (with a hypothetic 20% head wind you would have a 20y difference but of course that does not exist^^), but, unless you play something like lateral spin and a tad of ts, you're more likely to aim close to 320 than 333 :)

@@RMBNTR Thanks a lot, that explains why. How would i calculate the exact math if there is rain or cloud?

Rain/Clouds (all weather conditions that slow down the ball in general) not only modify ball distance on its own but also increase wind's effect on flight distance (not on aiming - lateral deflection remains almost the same) because you have to hit the ball harder to reach the same distance; most of the time you'll only have to add/withdraw some yards, but if you have for example snow + 3,5m tailwind it becomes much harder to estimate, as snow has a really harsh effect of course :)

Pay-to-fast undoubtedly, but it's not pay-to-win, money doesn't replace skill and experience of the game

oooh lord maiden

That's right, that means I still have a lot of work to be more consistent on the WRT, the more I'll play the better I may become :)

I copy here what I answered to another person: << It's the same benefit [as on Cad #14]: predicting in which direction the ball would tend to be deflected because of the aiming axis. Sometimes I compensate like we all do on Cad #14, sometimes I don't compensate and I just keep in mind that I have to over- or underhit the putt^^ >>

@@RMBNTR thank you

Hi, thanks for the feedback :) Between 92/38 (67,5° Wind) and 70/70 (45°), I use 80/55. (actually if you calculate the percentage with trigonometry it's smth like 82/56, I don't remember accurately; rounded to 80/55) So if there is a NE/NNE 4m/s Wind - 3.2m headwind - 2.2m Wind from right. For winds between "simple directions" (N, E, S, W) and 3-letters directions (e.g. NNE, ENE...) I use 95/20 (again, the true values are smth like 96/20, I rounded the 96 to 95^^) Of course you can round a little bit (0.1 or 0.2 rounding has nearly no influence on the result) to make your mind calculation easier :)

R0MB1N4T0R Thanks a lot, is there a way to calculate exactly how much wind is affecting each club. I tried on driving range however because of the bounce is different when there is wind. The calculation there is not correct. Do you know what is the best method to calculate for example for club 7i, wind 3.0 m/s North, I have to add xx yards to the aim?

That's what I explain in the 1st part of this guide (especially in the beginning of the video). If there's anything you can't understand because of the language tell me in the comments^^ For your example: I add/remove approx. 3% for 1m/s for 7i-8i most of the time. (that's the %/m unit you see in the first video) So for a 3m/s N Wind I'll have to add ~ 9% of the initial aiming distance. If I aim for a bounce at 400 yards, I should add 36y so 436 should be fine; of course if I can't have a 436y aim with the spin I want, I can aim for example for 445 because I need more ts, and hit 98%... every logical adjustement is then possible^^ *Warning*: compensating on the gauge itself does not work, because the gauge seems to be a club speed gauge or a power gauge, it is not a distance gauge, thus those values aren't proportional^^ so, do not simply hit 109% for a 3m headwind or 91% for a 3m tailwind in this case OF COURSE: there is no 100% accurate method, because the game is far too complex for that (fortunately !),Wind effect on the ball depends on so many factors: ball height/speed (e.g. a 9I with full topspin will take less Wind than a 8I with much bs, having 300 or 700 skill makes it not exactly the same as well...), lateral spin (on some cases, especially the shortest clubs, putting lots of lateral spin will generate more height so there will be a little more Wind influence), weather and climate also have a small influence on the Wind itself (rain, clouds, BF freezing and BL mountain atmosphere)... and even more details that are harder to explain, such as height difference that has multiple effects^^

Thanks a lot for your reply, the problem is I have around 700 skills and 7i, 8i 3% formula doesn't match the actual affect, it seems to effect like 3.5%-4%. Again this wont make a lot of difference in wind like 1-2m/s but when it is 4-5 m/s wind the margin is very significant. One more thing is that when using spin (left or right), the wind seems to have less effect especially against the wind direction.

Can you please give me some hint figure about forward wind? For example wind NE, 3.0ms what should be the pecentage for each club group?