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Just about 92,000 miles.

From Oreilly Auto Parts: Rotors: BrakeBest Select Brake Rotor - 982050RGS Brake Pads: Wagner OEX Ceramic Front Brake Pads - OEX1324 I ended up replacing rotors several times. They would last about a month and warp. I believe what was happening is that the brake pads were tearing up the rotors, most likely getting too hot. I ended up going with a rotor and pad set from Amazon. I have used this brand of rotor and pad set on several vehicles without a problem. For the Lexus, I wanted to get possibly better parts by going through Oreilly. But ultimately, I ended up going with the parts from Amazon that have worked well every time, on different vehicles. This is what ended up working: Power Stop KOE7688 Autospecialty Front Replacement Brake Kit-OE Brake Rotors & Ceramic Brake Pads www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKYKPHB?ref=fed_asin_title

That is correct.

That's good to know. Seems like they may be able to improve the kit somehow. Another person commented and said I should get the kit with the T-handle reamer. I have not tried that one yet. Hopefully my future does not have many manual tire repairs in it. 😄

@@LukeStensland T handles work a lot better

@@LukeStensland you did mention the rachet tie down! I didn't think of that. Good thinking

Wrong 76 ft-lb. or 103.1 Nm per the manual

@@MOAB-UT I google and it says even 140Nm = 103 ftlbs, me puzzeled. My Lexus dealer did 120Nm on my 450H

@@richardb.1414 Not sure. Every source I checked is consistent- even for the 450H. 76 ft-lbs. Over torqueing is bad for a few reasons. re: "The torque for the wheel lug nuts on a 2011 Lexus GS450h is 76 ft-lbs. The torque for wheel nuts can vary depending on the car model, rim size, design, and number of bolts. The torque values for new rims can be found in the rim certificate."

Awesome! I'm glad it helped.

😂 Η Παναγία δεν με άφησε εκεί. ήταν στο αμάξι και με περίμενε να τελειώσω την επισκευή του ελαστικού. Τώρα ξέρει ότι μπορώ να κάνω την επισκευή σχετικά γρήγορα. 😁

Probably more likely at a gas station, since you’ll need to put air in the tire. The spare tires that come with your car are typically scary to drive on, and tire shops aren’t always open. This one was especially difficult due to where the nail went in.

This does not have an oil filter.

Good to know. Thank you.

Should cut plug rope flush with tire. Those ends, sometimes will dry out by fiction on road and cause leaks.... Just saying. You got lucky this time for not having a leak after repair. Good job.

Thank you. Most of my videos are first attempts, so I know there are probably better ways to do things. But, I usually learn from the things I do wrong as I attempt to follow the directions on the package. In this video, I believe I did pull the nail out slowly and intended to ream the whole in the same direction. However, the information you added is helpful, and I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thank you.

I agree. That was directly through a steel belt, which made it a real pain. I repaired another tire a couple weeks later (on the same vehicle) and it was much easier since the hole was not through a steel belt. But I definitely would have saved myself from hammering if I had spent more time with the reamer.

Good to know. Thanks for the additional information.

I would use a brake cleaner. Below is a link to the product I use, on Amazon. I got mine from my local auto parts store, and I'm not sure if you have the same exact type in Canada. Depending on which area you are trying to clean, and how clean you are trying to make it, you may want to use the brake cleaner with a brush of some kind to remove the buildup, then wipe with a cloth. www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-Brake-Cleaner-Formula/dp/B003OUG0SO?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AS35M2JG5M1DD

@@LukeStensland thank you for the quick reply! Appreciate! Did you use Lexus rotors/pads Or aftermarket?

@@chandyskariah8284 I'm always on a budget, so I use aftermarket. I try to get good aftermarket but have had a problem with that. A year or two ago, I needed to replace the brake pads. I got some higher-end but reasonably priced pads from my auto part store. About a month after replacing the pads, I noticed shaking when I applied the brakes. So, I figured I needed to have the rotors turned. I had previously decided that turning rotors cost too much for the benefit. Seems to be better to get new rotors. But, I decided to have them turned anyway. The tire place told me that the back rotors were about done and said this was the last time they could be turned. The shaking was worse. Since they told me the rear rotors were bad, I purchased a brake and rotor kit from Amazon. They are not high-end, but I have used that brand on a couple different vehicles, and they seem to work great. That did not fix the shaking, so I figured it was the front brakes. This time, I got new rotors from my auto parts store. After about a month, the shaking came back. So, I figured it was the aftermarket rear rotors and pads from Amazon. I contacted that company, told them their rotors are garbage and had them send me a new set of rotors and pads. The problem persisted. So, I took My front rotors back to the auto parts store for a replacement. That fixed the problem for a while, but it eventually came back. I went back to the tire store and had them check my rotors. They said my back rotors were brand new, but I had actually been driving on them for several months. I went back to the auto parts store and had them replace my rotors again. The problem was gone for a while but came back again after about a month. I was starting to wonder if my calipers may be sticking and causing the rotors to warp, but the tire store said that the calipers were working correctly. Since they had told me that my rear rotors were new when they had been used for months, I wondered if the rear calipers were working at all or if they were just so good that they weren't showing wear. I decided to replace the front brakes and rotors with the same kit I got from Amazon. That fixed the problem, and after about 20,000 miles, the problem is still gone. So, Long story short, I believe the problem that caused all the extra work, time, and money was the initial set of after-market brake pads I got from the auto parts store. The thing I don't like about the brakes and rotors that work well is that when I back down my driveway with the brakes applied, it sounds like there's grinding, metal to metal. The pads, rotors, and all other components are fine and it's apparently just the sound of those pads on those rotors. The ones I get from Amazon are Power Stop ceramic disk pads and rotors.

With al the brake jobs I have ever done, I have always had to retract the piston. As the brakes wear down, the calipers adjust to keep the pads close to the rotor. When you put the new pads on, they are thicker than the old, worn pads and will not fit without retracting the piston.

Yeah, that’s your choice. Too much money for me, but lots of people go that route. With the dealership, at least you can feel confident that the job was done right. And it won’t have to be done again for quite a while.

@@LukeStensland Last week I used sea foam 3 times (1/2 can in the oil intake and 1.5 can in the gas tank, the error message is gone for a week now, I went to change order prematurely to clean what I did, he said no need to change the oil because I just changed it with him and I asked for the price of replacing at least the 3 coils (on the back - the hard ones) and spark plugs and the price is $1350, this is a regular mechanic and not the dealership, I guess the dealership will be cheaper. there is no error message currently, so I will hold for now.

Wow! That is expensive. If you’re replacing coils, I’m not sure how much those cost. I have heard that different variations of the RX350 may be more difficult to work on. But I only have experience with this exact model. For mine, though it seems like a lot of work, it was actually not that difficult. Just time consuming.

its honestly not that hard if a mechanic cant do this job then i wouldnt trust them to work on my car but if it was a hybrid version of this car i would understand because it way harder to do even if they know how to do it they probably wont want to do it.

No. You have to get the electric motor to retract the piston. It has been suggested to me that I am doing it wrong, because I did not put my vehicle in service mode. Service mode is where you do a procedure that makes the car retract the piston, without having to run electrical wires. I could not find a procedure that worked to get my car into service mode, so I had to use the wires. But, I'm sure there is a working procedure for this. That would be the best way, if you can find the one that works for your car.

@@LukeStensland thank you. I hope the serice mode work on my 2017. Thank you for the video though. I couldn’t ask for a better instruction.

@@kietbui31407 Thank you. If you do happen to find the correct procedure to put this vehicle in service mode, feel free to post the instructions or a link to the information. I would like to know how to do that.

​@kietbui31407 you can also just use a 9V battery instead of connecting it to the car battery. That might help you feel a little more comfortable

@@GinnNJuice90 thanks. Good to know. I haven’t worked on the brakes yet. Other projects keep me busy all weekends.

I'd like to know how to put it in service mode. I haven't found a method that actually works for my car. If you can put it in service mode, that's obviously best. But, if you can't, then you can do it this way.

It works for me perfectly. One thing I would like to recommend is the wrench used for 17’ caliber bolt. It needs a thin wall wrench or thin nose locked pliers to keep the bolt from running.

If you can't fit a breaker bar in there, the other technique I use is to slide a closed end wrench over the handle of the socket wrench. This puts the wrench at an angle and can help in a tight spot.

91,000 miles when these were replaced.