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Send me info on the handlebar light

Scarsity of chassis? If anything this is the one chassis that isn’t that! I was gonna get a brand new one for my current build now. But going a cheaper direction. And I need help finding a cr linkage . I still can’t post on FB groups cause I’m in fb jail still. Freedom of speech is dead 😕

Craigs list? I was expecting the vid to be 10 years old 😂😂 Damn 2 years. Didn’t think ppl still use that! I’ve checked a couple years back looking for a terminator. And it was all spam shit

Walsh and lsr still hsve frames listed

Huh? Sure you can. Actually it’s easier than ever to get parts delivered. Not to mention more online shops than ever before. More variety than ever before. Just around my area a saw a couple used frames for sale. Since I just started looking now. Weird I come across your video! 😂 And new Walsh frame will be weeks maybe months brand new. But that’s why you order in off season 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hello, I am looking for a cheap beater quad just for the most fun and least regret if broken, should I look at size or power? (I am 180cm tall, 60kgs, 15 years old)

Use tow haul mode when towing heavy loads. Service transmission regularly. Nice truck and video - I have one to - sport red. Expect 10 mpg.

I’ve just brought one, black with blacked out windows been well looked after even the brown leather hasn’t worn it’s a keeper every time I see it I love it more

Im just sharing what I've learned. Not trying to sound like a know-it-all. Low end torque keeps you moving but high RPM horsepower is what gets you up the hill. Lugging these trucks while pulling steep grades is harder on them then high RPM pulling. More RPM means coolant is moving through the cooling system faster helping to disperse the heat. Turbo is spooling harder and in it's "powr band". Air is moving over the stack faster. And the higher RPM is where the horsepower needed for acceleration comes in. Great video. Love the truck. Miss my LBZ. Currently in a 13 lml with 90 hp tow tune.

Yamaha vs polaris vs Raptor which one better?

You’ve got something wrong with that cooling system or that tune is wayyy too hot. That ECT is going to kill that engine. Tuning is all good but you have to have the supporting modifications. I have an 06 and tow heavier than that regularly and it NEVER crosses 205. Ever.

Thank you for the review.

I was thinking of getting rid of my YFZ 450r and getting a CF Moto800 2 seater so me and the wife can get around glamis. Were not goin to hill climb or anything like that. We just want to get to the races and watch them. Were trying not break the bank, buying a side by side. Thx fit the video.

Hello friend, what type of wheels and tires. What size do I want to buy the same ones as yours?

Do you know the pin weight?

Do u run it in awd in the dunes?

You need a new fan clutch. My brand new one from dealer kicks on around 218

How’s your thermostats? Because my truck doesn’t run that hot going up hill pulling 14000lbs and your fan should have kicked in sooner. Just my thoughts..

Let the truck work where it wants to. Better for the truck in higher rpm.

How did you set up the 250r to run the led light bar

Leave em stock

WOW Too much trailer, not enough truck I have a Kodiak C4500 for that much trailer Do you have a fass fuel pump system on there that’s gonna help your engine your injectors and the longevity of your engine and your fuel pump what kills that motor is overheating

Great video! thanks I also live outside of Vancouver and ride a rebuilt LT250R. Not too many of those old machines around here.

Mine never turns on idk why and when I try to kickstart it the kick starters becomes hard after several times quicking it but no power at all

I towed my 18,000 lb Solitude around N Carolina/ Tennessee mountains last year and my LBZ never got hot. 26,500 total rig. Max boost I noticed was 25 psi. Towed on CTS 2 # 2 tow mode. It added about 40+ hp and 60+ of.

On my 25ft gooseneck went from 10 ply tires to 14 ply tire 3 years ago and haven’t had flat or a blowout since:

I have a 2001 lb7 and all summer long I hauled 20,000 lbs total with 4x5 round bales of hay on a 25ft gooseneck trailer.Serval trips where over 30 miles one way. Never had any problems. Up and down hills it average about 2500 rpms I always use the tow mode.

Minus 1 swingarm? Is it better for the turns? What is the benefits ?

Hello, I’m looking for any website have OEM banshee plastic 2006 black special edition, if u know tell me, thank you

You can still buy most things brand new. LSR makes a 250r frame for 3200

What mods does the truck all have?

What tune do you have and what can I do to have an exaust break? Let me know please thinking in buying a lbz!

😂😂😂 my kinda guy! Shit load of bucks eh! Great video

Lbzed!! Lol😂

Nice build. I just built an 86. Yes it cost alot and took 18 months. I have close to 16-17k into with the cost of the bike i paid 2500 8 years ago. Yes parts are a pain

Thanks for sharing. I'm gonna make another comment about gearing down. Higher engine speed means less strain, and probably less oil consumption.

Great vid. Those 01-07 Duramax trucks are very capable trucks stock, but even better when you unlock some of the true ability. I like that you deleted and appropriately tuned both eng and trans. Exhaust, intake. Really just easy, low hanging fruit upgrades, but the results are very noticeable. I would like to get an LBZ or an LB7 like I used to have, and do a decent build also in the attempt to keep the same truck for life and have it do work and play nicely. With such great aftermarket support, bulletproofing and unlocking power that rivals new trucks is actually affordable and practical.

Cool pull there. Need a pyrometer. Not hard to add. Yea, so lower rpm isn't necessarily better for the engine in every situation. In this scenario, dropping to a lower gear which would raise to a higher rpm would actually be easier on the engine. The pyrometer would indicate that by a dropping EGT temp. "Lugging" is trying to drive in a higher gear than the engine is happy about. You don't want to lug while towing. Those low rpms are hot as hell and that can ruin an engine. Anything over 1200-1300F on the EGT, u should lower the gear, raise the rpms, and watch the EGTs drop. If u need to test your coolant system for leaks, try a radiator pressure tester kit. That makes injecting air much simpler. Or a hillbilly pressure test would be to just use your air compressor to shoot air into the system. Take off the coolant bottle cap, try stuffing the spout with a towel or something like that as you poke your air nozzle in and pump air into the system like 20-30psi. An adapter that makes an airtight seal is ideal, as would come with a kit. Listen/watch for leaks while pressurized. If it can hold 20-30 psi steady for a little while without leaking air or water, good to go. Also u should notice a lower fluid level in the coolant bottle next time the engine is cool if a leak occurred while it was last hot. If u wanna go nuts with it, split up the coolant duties and add a liquid 2 air intercooler. Climbing is especially rough since the air blowing through the grill is slower compared to 70-80 mph cruising. This isn't just rough on the coolant system, it's rough on your charged air temps also. These trucks only come stock with an air 2 air intercooler which needs air speed and/or the front fan to kick on in order to be effective. So accelerating from a standstill, or climbing with a heavy load is limiting your engine's capability by a large amount because the stock intercooler isn't effective when you need it the most. Solution: add one or two liquid 2 air intercoolers after the turbo compressor, before the stock intercooler, on the hot side. This will require adding another separate coolant loop, including another overflow coolant bottle, another smaller radiator with a fan, an electric water pump, and hoses/wires/sensors/relays the works. You can also use this extra coolant loop to cool the transmission separately, relieving your main coolant loop from having to cool it. Just remove the stock trans lines from the stock radiator tank, then use 1 or 2 plate heat exchangers to make the auxiliary coolant loop cool the trans fluid. U can get a good radiator/fan/relay kit for cooling the aux loop from online. Derale, flexalite, and spal make great little radiators with fans in a kit. Run two of those in series underneath or in back of truck if need be. Then your main coolant loop would only have to cool the engine and oil, not the trans too anymore. The improvement in intercooling by adding the two liquid intercoolers in series before the stock air intercooler should make such an improvement in power that it feels like you've added a second turbo. Also you'll have that power at all speeds and inclines, regardless of airspeed across the front grille. Cheers

you doggin that ole' girl. why arent you looking at egts??

thanks for comparison i haven’t seen anyone do this

U need to learn to gear down while ur climbing. Stop lowering rpm. That is what creates heat. Gear that bitch down, u shouldn’t be in overdrive at all unless ur doing 70 plus. Ul notice if u learn how to pull grades and keep it geared down u won’t get hot. Ur creating the heat tryin to keep rpm low. U need to pull grades at 2k rpm atleast. Ul keep cool, and prevent future damage. They’re built to be ran hard. Lugging arouns is the worst thing for them

What's up with your oil pressure?

Same happened to my chevy, turned out one of the heater hose clamp was about two turns from being completely tight. It was the hard one to get to so probably factory.

haha looking to do something very similar and this gives me the confidence to do it. Thanks for the video!

Just got an 06 lbz ccsb 4x4 Sierra last week, can’t believe how much pulling power this thing has. And the allison transmission forget about it, the shifts feel so smooth yet so solid

Better to keep the rpm above 2k while climbing. Gets the coolant circulating faster and is easier on the trans, drop it into manual 5 and stay out of 5th and 6th as much as you can. Awesome truck, I've got an 06 lbz

You need to drop a gear to keep the rpms higher and allow that turbo to spin more helping to lower the EGTs.

I have a 97 Polaris Xplorer 500......basically the same thing as the Sportsman. I have a windscreen, winch, and rear storage/seat mounted. Weighs in around 860 lbs trail-ready. Have taken it to St. Anthony dunes and it gets around surprisingly well. Its a little slow compared to a Rzr800 or any bike/sport quad, but we actually parked a CFMoto 800 sxs because it didn't get around as well as my Xplorer. Bigger hills will require low range, but I stayed away from them. For sight seeing and hauling supplies out for a night time fire in the dunes, it was more than adequate. Now I gotta take my Samurai out there and see how it does!

Odd title for a video. It's like saying "Can a machine designed for the sand make it in the sand?" 🤦🏻‍♂️

Our fifth wheel is about 13,000lbs and my LBZ would get hot towing it last year. There's a long steep grade going to the lake we like to go to and it would get a little hot. Truck had 450k miles on it, turbo veins were clogged. So I replaced the turbo in it. Put a Mishimoto radiator in it. Hoping that helps the cooling issue. It seems to run about 10 degrees cooler or more when I'm not towing so I think it may help the problem. Will post back with results when I have a chance to tow it this summer. Let you know if it makes a difference or not.