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Sorry about that. yes it does go blank BUT at that point it should go on to part 2 anyway, I saved the top contour templates for a later video, I must have forgotten to chop the video off there, you haven't missed anything...Thanks for taking the time to look and comment.

There are a few subtle differences in the outline but the main difference is the thickness of the top , the '53s are basically 1/2 inch at the thickest while the '59s are 17mm approx.

Thank you, I think I've got them correct now, but I will edit the titles tomorrow so they're the same.

@@3rguitars890 Thanks for updating the order, but I think you want the first video to be part 1. That way, when it auto-plays the 2nd video it will be part 2. I don't know of a way to play in reverse order. Appreciate the response!

@@footube666 Ah, I see what you mean, I've just reversed the order so it should be ok now. Thanks for letting me know, I'm kinda learning as I go with these videos...Thanks again.

@@3rguitars890 It's all good. Thanks for doing it. I look forward to watching the build!

Thank you very much, always nice to get comments on my work and a Happy Christmas and good health to you and your family.

Thank you, I'm glad I had a little break from painting them it gave me time to have a think and change of plans for the better, I always like something a bit quirky. Seasons greetings and all the best.

Ah, funny you should say that! Take a look at my resin guitar build, I did one guitar with pre decimal money cast into it , I had a "washing line" of notes hanging in my spraying shed getting a coat of clear lacquer, I remember telling the wife that I felt like a forger!

To be honest I don't know, I've had both blanks for at least 10 years, the darker piece I'm sure is 30 plus years old as I bought it of a retiring luthier who had a huge stockpile of unworked timber and I know he'd had it for years and years. The lighter coloured piece (and lighter weight), like I say, I've had for at least ten years and I imported that so have no idea really.

@@3rguitars890 Thanks so much. This is a great channel and I'm enjoying your videos. Beautiful work!

Thank you, I do have one, never knew what it was called though! The vintage holes are a smaller diameter but I'm assuming you can get these cutters in any diameter, it's an awkward job by hand so I'll be on the lookout for one of these..Thank you

It is a difficult process, I slide the neck into the body then using the body as a guide draw a pencil line around the neck shoulders, when you get the fit closer you can place carbon paper in the joint and this will leave a black mark on the joint face at any high spots, it is one of those jobs that takes a lot of time and care and a razor sharp chisel.

It drives me bonkers when something is slightly off, so for my own sanity I have to get things somewhat right!

Thank you. Yes, over the years I've used many different methods, spoke shaves, templates, routers etc but the facet method I feel is safest and most consistent. Ummm, those little files are wonderful, I have a round and flat one, the flat one went blunt really quickly but now I know what they're called I can get a few more...Thanks!

@@3rguitars890 Gio @ Tornelli guitars did a great video on the facet method - I used that as my basic method to start with. Recommended to any new neck carvers out there! And I think Gio is a great guy too.

@@SimonCustomGuitars I'll have to take a look at that, thank you.

The spinning rasp was from Axminster tools (as was the hand held one) takes a bit of getting use to but works very well.

Loving these builds bug time Chris, they're looking amazing ❤

Making the fretboard, fitting the inlays and fretting are in parts nine and ten.

Thank you very much, the comments mean a lot to me.

I would say the bigger Triton ( orange one), the smaller Trend T3 has too many limitations, mainly the lack of fine adjustment on the depth stop and to be honest I don't think it would be happy with a 1/2 cutter, it's too light weight for heavy use. Going back to the Triton, it will take a 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch collet so bigger cutters are no problem and it's easily powerful enough for the bigger cutters, it has nice speed adjustment, the best feature is the depth control as it has a "fast" plunge to get it in the ball park and then a fine wind-down control, it also has depth stops....Slightly annoying things are, it came with two collets but the biggest one was 12mm not 1/2 inch so that will cost you extra and the dust extraction guards are annoying if you don't have dust extractor, but they're easy to remove. From memory I paid £230 for it but that was about 3 years ago, I think the latest ones come with soft start as well. I've used it a lot and it has been 100% reliable, which is more than I can say for the small Trend T3. I did make my first guitars without a router but I would say it's near enough an essential tool for solid body guitar making. Hope that helps, all the best and thank you for taking a look!

@@3rguitars890 Thank you for your reply! you're creating amazing content!

Thank you..

I usually take a while trying to convince myself that it's ok then inevitably go back and correct the issue, I'm even more fussy when we get to the painting! In the end though it's got to be right. I'd hate to end up with a finished guitar that the neck is slightly out of line or something similar.

It may well be Gibson copying what they did back on their vintage guitars, I know that the original lefthanded '59 retained many righthanded features eg the wire channel, then they just drilled another through the jack hole all the way to the switch. To be honest I really don't know, would be worth looking at their regular left handed guitars they produce now, there's so many nuances between years and models, I'm certainly no expert.

Yeah, I know I'm terrible at cleaning-up after myself, my wife has to follow me around with a dust-pan and brush and a hoover when I do any DIY. A guy down the pub who works on cars told me after you've used a tool don't put it down put it back where it should be...I thought, that's a good idea...Lasted about a day!

Thanks for the info regarding the book, there's so much written about Fender and Gibson it's nice to read about other guitars. I have to confess that I know very little about Paul Bigsby guitars other than I think they look great! I'll put the book on my Christmas list...Thanks again

Thank you, it's nice that more guitarists are liking the obscure/quirky guitars, the TK Smith models look wonderful, very retro.

Thank you for your comments. Damn good idea with the mirror, thank you that will be handy!

Thanks very much, always nice to hear!

I'm in the same situation being in the UK, postage and tax...Ugh, Stew Mac have some great products but it's got to be a big order to make it worthwhile. Thanks for the comment..

Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you're liking the content. My name is Chris...Thanks

Thanks for the comment, glad you're enjoying the build..

Thank you,always nice to hear!

Thanks for your comment, always nice to hear from people. I'm certainly not "The font of all knowledge" on these guitars there are a lot of people who know these guitars inside out.

I think I got this binding from Rothko Frost, their postage is lightening fast , this size is 1.5 mm by 5mm, which is ideal to scrape down to the original 1/16th by 3/16th.

Thank you so much, always nice to hear from people around the world. Building these and the Flying Vs have probably been my favourite builds.

I agree, when I do Telecasters I have a simple jig to drill the holes for the ferrules on the back of the body, they're so close that you can notice the smallest "drill wander" also I think that the Korina is much softer than ash or alder ...Thanks for the comment.

I think the '58 Vs are closer to the '59 profile, I've looked at a good few pictures of the neck heel on a V and considering that the neck mortice is less than a Les Paul at 27-28mm (Les Paul is 10mm more from memory) on the V you can see quite a lot of wood removed on the neck transition, I don't think you'd get that with the thicker '54 profile. From my measurements there's very little difference at the 1st fret between '59 and '54, may be 0.5 mm, the big difference is at the 11th fret where, again from memory, there's up to 3mm difference . I've used an angle grinder to do arch tops and it's very controllable, the "cheese grater" I use in the drill press is pretty quick, anything where you don't have to do it by hand is good! Thanks for the comment.

@@3rguitars890 Hi . I really appreciate you taking time to answer from your deep well of knowledge!

There are many ways to do it, a sliding box sounds good, anything at an angle though upsets the horizontal measurements, when I do my pickup routs with the overhead router I have to move the routing template forward a bit, otherwise the pickup holes end up a couple of mm to far forward, Gibson made things awkward by cutting holes at an angle!

@@3rguitars890 again: Thanks!

Yes, I've done that and it makes for a nice job, easier than a chisel, I think I need to work on mine a bit, some are untidy.

I purchased a stockpile of it a few years ago from a retiring luthier so I have a good stash of Honduran Mahogany and some Brazilian rosewood although I generally use David Dykes Luthier supplies in the South East UK, however it is getting more and more difficult to get the same wood as used on vintage guitars.

It wouldn't surprise me, Epiphones are all made in China I think?

The R9 board was from a left handed LP, it has dots on both sides, the drawings I did are from a genuine '53 and the R9 board is identical with vintage fret spacing and crown inlay sizes so I use it as a reference, it also matches the Bartlet fretboard jig...Thanks for the comment.

I'm not familiar with the more modern Les Paul build, Over the years I've tried many different methods to try and improve accuracy but like you I still make plenty of mistakes, I think the art of guitar building is being able to hide your mistakes! The important thing with the neck joint is the alignment (in all planes) if the joint needs packing that's less of an issue than the neck being wonky!...Good luck and thanks for commenting.

Sorry I forgot, Yes I'm in the South East and it does get too cold at times!

@@3rguitars890 Yeah, it gets cold sometimes in the winter even in the south east, in my area there will soon be 1-2 meters of snow and -30C.. I am not looking forward to it though..

Great Videos, thanks for the Upload.For Routing the Inlays i made a jig that holds the 3 different sizes of the Inlays and i Route along on my pinrouter. So they end Up all the Same and IT goes way faster than Cut each piece by Hand. Greetings from Germany ✌️👍😁

Sorry to hear about your LP...Ugh, I've repaired a few of them!

No I haven't, just read about it on Wikipedia, sounds like it would be a good option for a fretboard, although would probably be very expensive. There is a very pretty Madagascan wood that is a good alternative for Brazilian rosewood, although it looks like rosewood it isn't so not restricted as far as I know.

I used Wood called brazilian blackheart. It was verry hard to Work with but DARK as brazilian Rosewood. ...

@@davidbarfuss After I've used this stock of Brazilian rosewood I'll be looking for alternatives, I've used a Madagascan wood that's very similar but that's still very expensive.

There is Honduras Palisander and Amazonas Palisander on the Market as Well. I used the honduran Palisander and IT has a bit of that Rio smell in IT when sanded. These are around 40 Euros inted of 300 for a Rio Board. I used a cocobolo on on build. I ready that Gibbon used Cocobolo Back in the day as Well....

Thank you very much, shouldn't be too long until the next update.

Mine were the same alignment but when I purchased the templates I had to ait about 3 months because they were being changed a bit, may be this as the reason BUT BUT BUT if you continue watching (I can't remember which video) I do re make the pickguards and re cut the tailpiece to a slightly different angle as the point of the tailpiece was ending up under the bridge and all the pictures I've seen, the apex of the tailpiece is just short of the bridge although it does vary a fair few mm from guitar to guitar...Thanks for the comment.

Fitting the necks is quite difficult on these you REALLY need to make sure that the neck is perfectly centred to the body as the V has such a defined centre line , it stands out a lot if the tailpiece point is off centre ...Good luck

I've had this timber for years, I bought a stockpile of it from a luthier who was retiring. Honduran mahogany is going to be very difficult to get these days and Brazilian rosewood virtually impossible . When I do buy timber I usually use David Dyke luthier supplies, Heathfield near Eastbourne.

Thanks for commenting, always nice to hear, Indeed LPs are quite labour intensive to build especially when you add in the detailed bits and pieces, crown inlays, pearl logo etc, getting the neck joint lined-up and perfect is a mission in itself, I'd be intrigued to find out if the pickup cavities were done before or after fitting the neck, any idea? No wonder they changed to the SG !...Thanks again

@@3rguitars890 I have no idea back in the day if they glued the neck before routing the pickupcavitys or not, but I know they glue in the neck before routing the pickup cavity today. I always make the angle of the neck mortis about 4.5 degree, the top is always made on a CNC and its 4.5 degree, everything needs to be the same or else the neck will not be seated in the right angle. It's a pain in the a** sometimes to be honest, sometimes I am thinking, why the he** am I doing this.. HAHA.. :D

Thank you very much, some jobs you just have to go for it! A 3inch router cutter made me panic a bit but easier than I thought.

I do keep meaning to contact them, they are an excellent company, I wish I had a ton of money to throw their way and stock up on some more tools! Thank you for your comment.

@@chrisrichards2272 Yeah stewmax is dangerous. Makes it much more affordable to get tools if you keep the orders under £135 though. LPs are looking good btw, I'm enjoying the series, you take some different approaches to what I've seen before.

Yeah, they certainly have an abundance of tools I'd like to try. trouble is being an old git I tend to be a bit tight with my money, comes with age! I must admit that I enjoy making jigs as much as making the guitars, there's a kinda sense of excitement when something works like you planned it..

Excuse me - why in particular?

Thanks for the comment, in general I'd say there's more work involved in building an LP than a Strat (say), carved top, fancy inlays, binding, set neck. I'd give Leo Fender 10/10 for re addressing guitar building, I started off my guitar playing with a Strat but these days I'm leaning towards Gibson, no doubt I'll sway back the other way at some point!