- Видео 5
- Просмотров 56 445
Bombsuits to Breadboards
Добавлен 1 окт 2021
DIY - Moen 1222 Cartridge Replacement
My son tried to take a shower and couldn’t turn the water back off. The faucet doesn’t have any way to turn the water off locally, so I had to turn off the main water supply to the house, which turns everything off.
Since I’m currently renting, I contacted the landlord to have a plumber sent out and received a number to call as well as a reference number for the order. Well the plumber didn’t answer after multiple attempts and messages stating I needed an appointment ASAP and was without water.
I woke up the next morning and tried again with no answer. So after having been out of water for 12+ hours, I decided I’ll just do it myself.
I used RUclips to search for cartridge removals and found ...
Since I’m currently renting, I contacted the landlord to have a plumber sent out and received a number to call as well as a reference number for the order. Well the plumber didn’t answer after multiple attempts and messages stating I needed an appointment ASAP and was without water.
I woke up the next morning and tried again with no answer. So after having been out of water for 12+ hours, I decided I’ll just do it myself.
I used RUclips to search for cartridge removals and found ...
Просмотров: 372
Видео
2013 F-150 5.0L V8 - Cranks but won’t turn over - No Codes
Просмотров 217Год назад
Had an issue with my 2013 F-150 5.0L V8 where the engine would crank but wouldn’t turn over. Ran diagnostics on it and had NO CODES, so it was a bit of a pain to troubleshoot. I just went off of a bunch of different forums and tried different things that worked for other people. Mine ended up being the Fuel Pump Relay Module, which I replaced with a Dorman version (part # 601-225) from O’reilly’s.
2013 F-150 Mode Door Actuator - Rapid Clicking Behind Dash On Driver’s Side Fix
Просмотров 7 тыс.Год назад
My 2013 F-150 started having some rapid clicking every time I started the truck or when I put the key in the “On” position after a remote start. I found the issue to be the mode door actuator for changing the air mode. I swapped in a new one (Part # YH-1881) and the issue was solved.
Ford F-150 Aftermarket Speaker Wire Harness Adapter Polarity Fix
Просмотров 13 тыс.2 года назад
I bought some speaker harnesses that I’ll link down below from Amazon. The spade connectors were way too small for the speakers I bought, and I had to bend them quite a bit to get them to fit. When I went to leave a review on Amazon, I saw the other reviewers mentioning that the wiring was reversed. When I went back in the next day and checked, mine were also reversed. Luckily the fix is super ...
2013 F-150 AC Recirculation Door “Fix”
Просмотров 35 тыс.2 года назад
When attempting to replace the motor for my Recirculation door on my F-150 I realized that the door gears had broken like so many others have. Instead of taking the entire dash apart, I found some foam I had laying around and used it to prop the door in the recirculating position. Even though this takes away the ability to switch, I’d much rather have it stuck in the recirculating position than...
What issue did it cause with the Ac function rather than just the noise?
@@johnlira3316 If I remember correctly, I couldn’t change which vents the air came out of, or a couple modes didn’t work.
Did you have to pull the fan motor to get to the recirculation door? I plan on doing the same repair.
@@CARLOSTREUIL yes, you have to pull the blower motor to get to the door.
I have the same issue with my 2010 F150 pickup. Would you share the link to the video you watched showing the operation of the diverter? Thanks for showing this fix.
Did you unplug the actuator motor too?
@@macd6351 no, I didn’t worry about the actuator motor. If you want to unplug it, it’s pretty easy access from the side panel of the dash.
Thanks for making a video for this, every other video is not for my exact model. Thanks for making a simple informative video. Cheers
I'm having the same problem now in my '13 Lariat. Nothing rattling around in the motor - but I'm going to check this first and sure hope it's as easy as you make it look. Would be great if you remembered what size sockets everything was :)
I didn’t have anything rattling around in the blower either. I actually thought it was the motor since there was no noise. It’s a simple fix and I haven’t had any problems since I did this, but unfortunately I don’t remember the socket sizes. I should have added those to the video.
@@bombsuitstobreadboards6279 No worries, I think I used 8mm when I did this on Sunday. It was a son of a gun but I was able to jam a couple of wedges of swimming pool noodle foam in the smallest frame spots to (hopefully) keep the door in place. Once I put everything back on - A/C was ice cold again and not sucking the hot-as-hell humidity in with it.
Thanks! I just did this using some scrap pipe insulation, works great! I also wedged a block of wood under it to hold it up while I got the screws baxk in if that helps anyome.
Dude man thank you so much. It worked for me, you’re the man!
Great find!!! Thanks for the video.
The thing about those units and the reason the gear breaks is because it uses a torque sensor to turn the flap motor off. So when you hit the recirculate button the motor starts and will continue to run until the flap can no longer move any further and torque increases on the motor. When that gear breaks the motor is free to continue running forever basically. If you use this method to wedge the flap, you may want to disable the motor.
muchas gracias amigo logre resolver, de repente comenzaron a ingresar malos olores y poco enfriamiento del sistema, y no sabia como repararlo, pero ahora si gracias a ti, saludos desde Venezuela
Anyone having the issue of turning on the A/C at a 1-2 fan speed setting and the air recycler button turning on by it self? You turn it off and it turns back on??
Where can you find A/c recirculation door in your truck?
Mine is a 2013, it’s on the passenger side under the dash, back in the corner.
I might say it is ABOVE the blower motor. Rmv the blwr mtr & it is above...in the next "chamber", beyond the black plastic grid. I think.
The 5601 part number is the identical connector but wired correctly. I was getting confused why crutchfield was showing 2 different speaker harnesses for my f150, but this video made it all make sense
After doing this does anyone else have the issue of the recirc motor constantly running? I’m guessing it thinks it’s stuck closed. Maybe disconnect the motor?
Thank you for making this video, this problem was driving me crazy, I did exactly as you showed, problem solved, thanks again!!
That’s going to be my fix, recirc all the time…
Come in between gas pedal and brake with a small extension and there will be no reason to remove gas pedal. Great video overall, just wanted to share another way to go about it.
Thank you! I will be doing the same repair tomorrow in a 2014 f150. Appreciate the time you took for help us out.
This issue just started for me in my 2014. The biggest help out of all the videos I’ve seen. Is that you showing the part number. lol. Huge!! Thanks for the info brother!!!
Same for 2014 F150. This was a huge help
I have found videos showing the actuator on Driver side in 3 places. This is the easy access one. One version, (centered and low vs this being slightly driver side and high) you have the choice of cutting the floor vent in half or taking the entire dash out. Another, close to the same location, the vent can be pulled down enough to get the actuator out and replace it. All 3 the same year. Different trim packages. Passenger side actuator is same place all 3 versions. Hoping mine turns out to be this version... Good chance as the hard versions are usually in the fancier trim packages.
Is this for. Eco boost? If so what’s the part number
@@fhuber7507 ya, he asked if it was for an eco boost, but mine is a 5.0L, which is why I answered with the engine size.
@@fhuber7507I believe all three actuators would be different as they are on my 2011 f150. Totally different part numbers and different mounting tab configuration.
Thanks for the video! I recently removed the broken recirculation door gear from the blower motor and fixed the really loud noise. I left the recirculation door as it was and put everything back together. I now have a faint buzzing noise that is present for the first few minutes of starting the truck and again after I turn off the truck. Is this the recirculation door actuator that is still trying to open/close the recirculation door? If so, is there a way to unplug the recirculation door actuator or a fuse to disable it? Thank you for the help!
Thanks I’m about to do mine! Down here in C.C.TEXAS 🥵
This is my last Ford truck after 60 years of driving them. 12th gen is spoiled by cheap plastic crap and poor quality. Toyota in my future.
I’m with you. Learned to drive on dad’s bumpside and have always had an Fseries in the fleet, but this 2014 has had nothing but problems inside the dash. Recirc flapper, driver’s side vent door actuator, infotainment screen all have failed. The only silver lining is there are so many Fseries trucks with these failures that there are youtube videos like this one on how to fix them.
You saved me a lotta time and money. Foam worked after I tried shims. Mice built nest in my intake plenum, they can get in where finder meets cab.
This is awesome. Gonna do this on my wife’s truck instead of paying $1300 in labor. Thanks so much!
Thanks so much I wish I could buy you a beer 🤣 I just fixed mine after noticing cold air wasn’t really coming thru and I could smell the soap during a Carwash
Do you notice it sounds like the recirc motor is constantly running now? Sounds like it’s cycling because it thinks it’s stuck closed…?
Actually it cycles for a few mins then stops. I have a raptor and couldn’t tell while it’s running from the noise but seems to do it on every key on and off. Might try and just disconnect the motor
@@xschm1dx yes I can hear it but I just ignore it doesn’t really bother me but you should be able to disconnect it the only reason I didn’t it’s because I didn’t want the system to give me any errors or disable the recirculation button
Thank you for the information. I swear I thought I taped it closed but went to look and it was open. 106 degrees here in south texas. Fresh air was not cutting it. Great informational video and saved my melting arse.
Definitely, the fresh air doesn’t help at all in the summer in Arizona either! My AC has been nice and cold ever since I did this though. Hope yours works just as well!
My clicking was only 2-3 times per second, but that definitely the part that failed. Unplugged it and the sound quit. Been searching for the part number everywhere, thank you for this.
No problem! Mine has been working great and no more annoying clicking sounds ever since I swapped that out.
Thank you for your response quick question.. Couldn't I just clip it in the way it is to the factory harnes.. when I put the Terminals on to the speakers I clipped them correctly the positive to the positive the negative to the negative.. I'm assuming Wire Is all the same underneath.. The color coding is just to make it that much easier. ??
Ya, you could always swap the spade connections on the speaker instead of swapping the pins. For mine, those spade connections were too small for the spades on the speaker, so once they were on there I would have had to really deform or break them to get them off. So in my case it was easier to just swap the pins. But you are correct, the wire color doesn’t matter, they all conduct electrical signals, you just want to make sure each end of the same wire is connected to the right polarity contacts.
This is easier said than done. I've been added for almost an hour and still can't do it.
It’s not that hard, you just lift that plastic tab and pull the wire to get the pin out. I used a toothpick because that’s what I had laying around to grab real quick, but something like a dental pick or a small punch may be easier.
So Is positive the wide connector and negitve the skinny one ??
Why was this fix for didnt blow alot of air threw vents?
This is exactly what I was looking for thank you! I live in deep south east Texas I want all the cold ac I can get and want to keep the dirt roads out I only need recirculation not fresh I want fresh I can roll a few windows down for a minute on the high ways tada all the fresh air you want lol
Thanks this gave me clarity
Thank you, thank you!! I didn't see this video until after I removed the plastic piece that broke off the vent door. I was stuck in traffic during a 4 hour drive and smelled heavy exhaust fumes!! I just found your video and will be performing your procedure this week on my truck. Thanks again!! 🎯💯
Esa es la forma más rápida y muy práctica , de solucionar ese problema🤝👍👍👍
Sir the speaker polarity was already correct 😢
That’s great if it was already correct for you, easy day! I probably should have been more specific in the title that this is for a 2013 F-150 XLT. Wiring harnesses can be different on different packages even within the same year, so you definitely want to verify on your vehicle.
@@bombsuitstobreadboards6279 😊
What is the harness model because I have the same thing for my truck
The model for the harness adapter is in the description of the video. If you’re talking about the actual wiring harness on the truck, I linked that in a reply to another comment as well.
Thanks you this has really helped me out.
Glad it helped you out!
The wire diagram says blue & white is negative. How do you know its positive? Orange/ light green should be the positive
Watching the video again, that is the rear driver’s side door, and that wire looks like white/green with the other being brown/yellow. I’m not sure if it was this door because it was a while ago, but I remember thinking my positive wire color didn’t match up to the diagram exactly, but my negative color did. Looking at it now, it looks like I probably caught the color in a bad light and thought it was blue instead of green. I got the wiring diagram from the link below, but make sure it matches your truck because they are different for a variety of reasons, even in the same year. www.justanswer.com/ford/ayf8w-looking-wiring-diagram-2013-f150-xlt-stereo-drivers.html
Thanks, In just fixed my 2012 Raptor. Places 2 pieces of fuel line, they held the door up in the recirculating position and removed the broken plastic piece from the blower motor. It works great now. 🙌🏼
How do you replace the door ? What part would it be?
Try yo crank shaft it all so wot start yo car
Thanks for the heads up. We'll done video!
Hey, guessing your a tech based on your RUclips channel name - help a fellow tech out? Was a symptom of this failing, your climate control being uncontrollable? Meaning no ability to direct air to feet, defrost etc.
Thank you for the video. Does putting it in permanent recirc affect the windows fogging up in the winter? thanks