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That’s exactly what I’m doing. 18” hole 3/4 inch hole, 5/8 threaded rod, lots of hold down epoxy, and one brand new Simpson HDU2. It’s my own house and cheaper than rebuilding in my area.

That’s a great point.

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“Latin blood, so we’ll get the job done!” Translated of course , plus he’s my uncle and only 54.

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Yup. They didn’t make it for that video but pro tip: 1 small 2 ft demo bar + 1 larger 4 ft should get most jobs done.

Demo bar does you no good when there's no sheathing. removing stucco on open stud bays sucks dick any way you do it

Great point. This stucco is from 1958 aka no sheathing.

What are your thoughts on cement siding or alternatives to stucco?

Get a grinder and cut it simple bro …

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🤔 … 😅

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I DID too but learned all the ticks. Practice, practice, and a bit of exposure. Mindset helps too. If you go into it thinking “ah f more fascia” , “ I hate doing fascia” yeah you’re gonna hate it. It’s just a game and you’re trying to level up. 👍 you got it.

😂 - screws on each leg through the plastics into the roof deck plus the blocks.

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😁 This one was the easiest to source from my nearest Builders First Source. This is polyiso (Polyisocyanurate) it wasn’t my first choice bc of price but it was easily available.

The right tool is worth its price. Check out used tools on Facebook marketplace , Craigslist , and yard sales too. I’m assuming yard sales are still a thing. 😅

@@approachingpassive oh yeah, I get a lot of tools at estate sales

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Which part? Keep in mind it’s a 1956 home that I’m renovating so there’s lots that wasn’t correct but that’s being corrected.

2x6 DF ripped and angled down to 2x4. They’re toenailed and will have 2x 8” screws to hit the 10” lvl rafters.

@@approachingpassive Thanks! It’s looking good. What made you decide to do insulation above the roof sheathing? Is there not enough room under the roof sheathing to get the R value you are going for?

We’re doing the remodel while still living in the house so exterior was the way to go. Most in my area have 2x6 / 2x8 rafters if they’re lucky so I wanted to show it’s possible to use exterior plus a solid air barrier to approach passive house principles. I’ll likely do another layer from under the roof sheathing down the road but the 3 in. of exterior insulation nets an R 18.2. Any more is just extra.

I appreciate you saying that. I’ve said before that no contractor will care about this house more than me - so let’s get after it.

😅 easy money for the team I’m the one paying so it’s 😭

You’re totally right! This section was where the new and old rafters joined on top of a load baring wall so they needed a bit of shaving. Otherwise your right crowns up. For others reference: Crown up = the natural bow in lumber is positioned upward.

Million Dollar Baby - Tommy Richman

This one. ☝️

Great point. These rafters are on 16” OC. H Clips weren’t specified and not required in my area. Had these been 24” OC then they are specified and required. For Others Reference: H Clips = hurricane clips / roof panel clips OC = on center, measured from center to center of a wood member.

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You’d never notice when the roofing goes on lol

@@DvstyDomit just means the shingles or metal screws are more likely to pop up faster over the years. Unstable structure. Hate working on old roofs

Good on you for holding yourself to high standards

Appreciate that. It’s my own home and no one else will care about this house more than me.

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Been looking into it and my stucco is at least 70+ years old and I’m being told that it’s best to replace it. 🤔

😂 my wife was also 😳

Yes! that’s been by far the best way. Just tired of having to make such a big mess when I need to repair / update something. Cement board fiber or some other panelized cladding is what I’m shooting for. Thoughts?

LOL ist Build totally wrong!

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@@approachingpassive my not go with LP Smart Side?

Good suggestion. Looking at cement board with exposed fasteners or some sort composite paneling system.

The previous owner. 🫣 who happens to be my father. 🤦

@@approachingpassive whatever works!

Thoughts on removing all the stucco and going for 4x8 cement boards or some other siding?

@@approachingpassivenaw keep it

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It its pretty rough but luckily all the stucco is coming down and replaced with a panelized exterior siding.

Likely in the living and dinning table area but not in the bedrooms. Trusses were an option but there was more engineering needed to get those built. The lvls were the best next option because of the spans 27ft.

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I gave them two options 1) the interior attic access and 2) the cut out which was an old vent (there’s a video in the feed). They opted for the exterior option and glad they did b/c the devils dandruff was floating everywhere. After 70+ years there’s a lot of dust, critters, and other stuff you don’t want settling inside. 🤢🤮

It’s better than no insulation. Just make sure to have it checked out and like everything else in a home it’ll require maintenance and eventual replacement. Blown in insulation has a 20-30 year life span typically. Blown in insulation will loose it’s effectiveness over time due to compression and settling (thanks gravity). A home inspection is typically a good 1st step. Also check out @cyfyhomeinspections he’s providing good info for homeowners. Trust but verify.

What’s your experience with the devil’s dandruff?

Is that bad? I think I have that in my new house we bought from the 90's 😮

No it's fine, it's just packed down and not fluffy. As long as yours isn't packed down it's fine ​@@angelicacortes1504

We had water water leaks which is not good for loose insulation and this was from the 1960’s. It just made sense to replace it since we’re replacing the roof. Generally it lasts 20-30 years but it was time for mine to go. Thanks @wafflewafflewaffle

Thanks homie! ​@wafflewafflewaffle

Not mine but the orange depot did have a deal for a 16gal shop vac this morning. Lots of deals on pack outs!

Lots more to come. I’m just a dude who bought his parents house and I just want to make this house last for another generation.

It was until it wasn’t. The issue turned out to be the internal chamber sensor. After the replacement it’s been working just fine. In town quotes to replace it were between $1.5-2K. Surprisingly straightforward.

Very true! I’ve been looking at public tax records and not more than 15 years ago most of these track homes were being sold for 220-350K. As much as I would love the prices to go down the fact of the matter is that this is the new base price.

Nuts because this level of tract home went for probably 10,000$ new! I grew up on Mesa and those went for 12,000$ when I was a kid. Somewhere in that ballpark. This looks like Goleta which for many years was where buyers went to get something for much less. Not anymore…. 😵‍💫

Definitely the new base price…💯

It’s funny because public records shows the original builder of our home and it’s definitely $10,100 dollars.

Also not a bad song.

😂 but only kidding. The authorities are always listening 👂 🤫

Just under 4.5k per year, but now that it was sold it’s bumped up to about 12k lame.