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Do you know where I can fix the retainer clips for which holds the bulbs , or replacement , it’s a bum to find anywhere

Hell ya, thanks

Great video, thank you!

Galvanized metal is going to corrode when it comes into contact with aluminum it will look great for a couple years and then you’ll see your gutters. Will show signs of corrosion where it touches the galvanized metal. Just a heads up.

Do you get good draft on this basement install? Any problems basement smoking? Starting a fire I would like to do this in poured concrete wall what extension lenth do you think you need besides the through the wall kit to go through 12" poured wall and 4" foam board and dry wall thanks have a good day

I have a 2000 model Club Car the a previous owner switched from 8 volt to 12 volt batteries. None of the accessories work, (lights, battery charge indicator, etc...). What could cause this and how do I fix it ??

That is an excellent tool idea and thank you for the info video. Maybe you should consider you shorten up the over talking and speed up the info process. Just me talking.

That is an excellent tool idea and thank you for the info video. Maybe you should consider you shorten up the over talking and speed up the info process. Just me talking.

Yes is this a I was searching a long time thank you Sir!

Thank you so so much! Im on this next week! Much appreciated.

Here in 2024, you’re doing the Lord’s work.

I left it in the dash the oem mount bracket it the boss radio I have doesn’t sit so far back to hit it

Last year I did the plastic mesh gutter guards and they were just awful complete waste of money. Buying metal or even the plastic gutter guards would be pretty expensive to do my whole house but this is an actual good idea. Gonna try this before fall hits.

After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way. This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence. The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Use a good worklight for this job. 1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover. 2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work. 3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon. 4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side. 5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket). 6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later). 7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny). 8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me). 9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath). 10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above). 11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough. 12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Will locktight work

Nice fix! In my case, it was the charcoal basket. Replaced the $25 dollar leak detection pump.

I’m a tinker kind of guy, but take fuel cap apart and JB weld?? Just get a new cap. They last for years and years and wonT interfere with potential valve on cap for EVAP system functioning. There is frugal and then there is getting cheap??

Word of advice. When cutting off the plastic corners on the DeWalt version, remove the plastic top to avoid cutting the internal wiring that sits very close to the edge.

:)

Great product! Does a fantastic job cleaning and the fact that it’s biodegradable is a huge plus. Highly recommend.

Very professional video, I definitely would use it.

I'm trying to watch this and it won't load, and I'm on high speed cable internet. I just get the spinning wheel. Maybe that's why there's only 34 views and one like in 8 years. But I was able to use the downloading website I like, and download it and watch it offline. Good work taking down that tree with no collateral damage.

By the way, what the heck happened to the front of that mower? Who's the dummy that did that? Wow.

I have 4 cars and been driving 37 years, all my cars never had a loose feeling cap when tighting until i bought my first jeep.. never had an evap with all my cars until jeep.. this is a jeep thing they should recall the crappy gas caps and redesign like other auto makers but won't. Maybe my 1991 Mustang cap will fit.. 😆 that always worked good and solid.

Hey, very professional video. Well done. I'm the first commenter! I won the last giveaway, and unfortunately I never got the chance to use the product. Then we had that long packing process and move. Some day...

Such disgusting and destructive creatures

Good job....... Simple efficient exchange heat.😎👍

I rented lift for $210 for 2 days. Worth every penny. I had a list of things and banged the all out, including tree trimming, caulking and roof repairs.

@4:23 you have dog gate in the background. Why not use that ?

Look at you, sacrificing your quality of life to have this stinking predator inside your house.

How about don't let the dogs in that room in the first place

Will that work on a 2007 Chevy Silverado

thanks for the video... do you think it's possible to break apart a 20 v charger and use it to replace the 18 v connection on a old 18 v radio to convert the 18 v radio to a 20 v radio that can also charge 20 v batteries?

Great video! I'm about to do this with a drill I got for free. It's a great drill. If it wasn't 14.4

I'm going to be replacing my EGR and this video is a great help thanks

Great video and thanks for posting....

Yes seal ceiling and fan to knock down trapped heat I used old chicken house insulation 1and5/8 thick 4x23 for around 28 dollars on market place and that worked great for me o and 72 cases of caulk get air tight and if need be crack a window depending on I need fresh air so I need as insulated and caulked as I can get but I want to choose where and when I choose to let some inside

Build a room with tile board around what you have and notch stove flew pipe save a fair amount of heat just make sure you run fresh air to your barrel at bottom I’m wiring metal fence post’s and fan to blow the pipes lightly to circulate

Terrific job, thanks!

Couldn't you just use a 3/8 drive crowsfoot with a 6" extension to drive it in?

Good stuff thanks

Great idea. I did something similar using a flex plate, a riser tube, and a slotted adapter hub.

Consider running just clear water through it dirt to flush out the initial junk. Then cycle your acid through. Then, when you switch to the plain water after the acid, put the pump into the freshwater and let the outlet pump into the first bucket. Once it’s clear move the outlet into the freshwater bucket. This keeps the water in the buckets from getting overly dirty, and gives you a more clear indication of what is coming out of the heater core.

how big of a area do you think this would heat and how did the barrel inside the barrel work im looking to heat my basement

Thank you for sharing!! This was a very detailed video. I am adding a wood stove to my mom's home and was trying to figure out if the basement was possible or not.

I hate this dome light housing. Mine has been shorting out and causing my Jeep to stall in traffic with no battery power at all. Can't even run the hazards. I'm going to disconnect it entirely, but I can't figure out how to get the electrical connector to break loose.

This blows my mind for so many reasons i cant articulate here.

Had to comment as no one else did😂. Please be careful with that circular saw. I must admit i clicked this thinking you were actually building this for yourself 😂😂😂

I would cut half of that cross tube weld the two long tubes closer together (around 4") so you capture more of the heat from the flame and get hotter air to the building making it more efficient.

omg. I did this similarly yesterday in my basement. Except instead of your cool chute, I simply, carefully chucked the pieces delivered to my driveway threw a small window and DIRECTLY into a big wheeled bin purchased from Home Depot. I then carted it to the highest elevation of the basement and stacked it on sod pallets.