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Hey, I haven't seen any different materials for them. It's not too bad changing it out in the car with the right tools. I did it a while back when I changed my head gasket with the motor still in. I would definitely recommend changing it and upgrading the sprockets to the laser etched ones to help with the motor slipping out of time.

Sure, you can send a message on my website

Yeah, car overheated and thinned out the oil, it was running rough and wouldn't start. The bearing was smashed on one end and was from lack of oil pressure so metal on metal not the clearances. I measured everything on the rebuild.

@@projectrandomCO Usually when rods spin, the crank and rod are usually done, if you didn't send it in to be checked. What did you use to measure?

I didn't send it in 😅 everything seems fine for now, I put a couple hundred miles on it. I need to change the oil soon so we will see. I'm not worried about it being toast, I am planning on getting a machined block soon to get rid of the semi closed deck with sleeves. And then I'll probably get a new project

Hey, If I remember right you only need to change MAF Calculation Switch from 1 to 0. I changed a few other settings for boost calculation and mass flow corrections at low RPM but I think that is the main one to disable the intake MAF and use the MAP. You also need to suppress a few codes in the map.

It's ugly as hell under all the heat wrap but it works 😄.

+1

Haven't had any blow by or any issues, I also have my block decked and used factory torque specs since arp was way over spec. Ive seen a lot of cracking with overtorque so wanted to keep it safe.

@@projectrandomCO sorry i meant the arp bolts on the girdle that clamp main bearings

Oh, yeah I got that but I thought you were saying cylinder hone haha read that too fast. That's what I meant though, I didn't torque the main bolts to arp spec and got new bearings, I didn't measure the clearance with a micrometer, but I did use plastic guage-😅 and was within spec. I do plan on getting a new block built at some point so I'll ride this out til it blows up again.

😅 yeah, I'm not paying for a tune so it's taking me a little longer to get things right doong it on my own. I am working with BM3 testing the EU5 S63 injector drop down for our cars so, hopefully that will be live soon.

@@projectrandomCO This is one of the best things ive read today, BM3 has never had any support for our N20s like they do other motors. Convince them to do customROM next lol

I asked, I don't think our DME can support it. I want that map switching!

@@projectrandomCO Oh damn, Honestly youre bringing more light to N20 software support so keep doing what youre doing!

Damn, thst sucks! Cost me about $400 in parts and 3 days. Took me longer the first time, but I think I can get it to 2 days for a full rebuild if needed. 3 years to rebuild a stock engine seems crazy lol

Yo, it's an xdrive so it's just the stock oil pan. I need to re work my tune from the ground up so doong that now, I ended up putting in the hpfp and new EU5 injectors for full e85 and the smaller turbo.

@@projectrandomCOyou said you were getting 30 PSI how did it feel? Even not being dialed

It was pretty dialed before the bearing went, but I changed the fueling and had to start over since I have more ethanol. I'm running a 50/50 blend now and need to do a full e85 tune. It put me back in my seat though, power came on around 4500 to 5k though so I need to lean the spool out and see if I can get the power in a little earlier.

Uploading a video now, had to rebuild the whole engine again. Spun a bearing after I got boost in it. Must have happened when it overheated.

I've got a 3 inch all the way back, 3.5 would just get reduced to 3" unless I do a full 3.5" exhaust. This is a 2.0 and not pushing a ton of power. Since it's not a full race car I want to keep a full exhaust to tone it down.

Video is uploading now!

Hey! Not sure if you saw when it overheated, but it spun a bearing. I'm about 60% of the way rebuilding the entire engine. All the parts are in. I just need to put everything back together now but have been out of town.

@@projectrandomCO Oh jeez, imma stay tuned. Can’t wait to see this beast up and running

Damn that sucks, any idea what happened? I haven't posted in a while cause I finally got it running perfect and it spun a rod bearing. I actually just started working on it today and got the motor pulled.

@@projectrandomCO blew piston 1, no compression. We were running stage 2 with all the goodies. Mechanic thinks we had to much boost running. Motor comes out In about a month from now for a complete tear down & assessment. Will keep you in the loop.

Oh let me take this video down sorry..

Hey, map switching is only available in some ROMS my DME isn't compatible unfortunately.

Mark first before you too the step to 800

Hey, I am not sure if there are any off the shelf cams that exist. You can definitely get a custom one made but that would be expensive

Oem for now. They do make aluminum valve covers but haven't needed it yet.

Just he head gasket takes less than a day. Pulling the engine and doing the pistons took about 3 days.

Manifold is done and in the car, just waiting on some 3" piping and elbows to finish the downpipe. Car runs but I haven't driven it yet but the turbo spools like crazy now with the new manifold. Video soon, pipes come in next Wed so it will probably be next Friday before I can finish up and post the vid.

Manifold is done finally, just finished most of it yesterday! Had to make everything from scratch but I did a twin scroll manifold with a single wastegate for now. Just waiting on some more piping to finish my downpipe, had to move pretty much everything so I had to rebuild it all. I am 98% done though, I'll have a new video with driving out probably Friday? Pipes don't show up til Wed.

@@projectrandomCO I think what you did with the manifold now will be a lasting success. I was already pretty sure that the welds of the first iteration won’t hold. Let’s hope the cooling passage reinforcement is up to task. If your setup is running, I’ll fab my own manifold as well, although I bought a compressor housing and manifold that I was planning to bore. Did you manage to get the clearance for disassembly under the car? Keep it up bro.👊🏼

@@cribwalkgenetics9826 Yeah the manifold seems super solid. I had the wrong wire in my mig welder, I was going to Tig everything but ended up using the Mig again since my welder is crap. It is 100% better than the first and should last for a while. Car is running, I just have to finish the downpipe but I can already tell the turbo spools how it should, it sounds like a jet engine now, before I couldn't hear it when revving in park. I did clearance everything out with the new manifold. I am doing the downpipe in 2 sections with a vband so I can take it out from the top instead of having to remove the bottom plate. I also made the manifold a little shorter and put the WG right under the turbo instead of down below so it's easier to get to. I'll show everything in the next video and take it for a rip!

@@projectrandomCO when is the next video?

@@projectrandomCOit’s been 2 months, NEED an update pls

Yeah fully built and semi closed deck, fire ring gasket.

@@projectrandomCO alright then bro let us know how it goes I got a 2015 328 with the n26 so just here to learn from you

Maybe! I need some more funds and projects for sure

The N20 is a solid engine it’s reliable and tune able however it’s temperamental and has to have a perfect tune to run right

Yo, the hybrid one would be super easy to swap, otherwise you have to build a manifold

@projectrandomCO thanks, looking forward to seeing your manifold work. Might give me some better ideas to go for a too mount. N20s get no love. Hopefully BM3 gives us CustomROM, I can't imagine what your spool would be on your turbo without anti lag

@@Dark-jo3gdhey man. N20+ turbo here on my car and the lag is astronomical… 😂 3500 rpm it kicks in then I’m spinning first 3 gears.

Yo, this is replacing the whole setup, the up pipe to the turbo was 2.5" now I'll have 1.25 for each cyllinder going to the collector/T4 flange

@@projectrandomCO gotcha, that should work great, hopefully you’ll get it dialed I’m just as excited as you are.