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Here's one I found on Amazon. I've had mine for a while - it has no name on it. Milodon is a name I trust. www.amazon.com/Milodon-23005-Pump-Priming-Shaft/dp/B0050VKQZI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1URGNXT879ZBH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Fbw8JGdyKwIBv9_C6JAdqB9eO72WcLCzGiMy7MHaZMLtAVR4AeP0cZ8VY_t-45rcwCnV8RB5Ow0srCuLVqyp_LP0oNASOKKEcMsdrH-qBeCoLKL3LbBkmFdplYHF5cRnXeMIvUQdpMTb8rd7_pPBCdRe1ONmf84B-5jtfnrN9UFkqChY4ZE-_gyW_p2854NUwKhCHy0nhcAdecYbzcYo9FdRpx69VugWX_-eZuTFSi0.2JAqTNsulfUktzxCKFiw00vB7dMMRczK-XBJb-aZ0iA&dib_tag=se&keywords=milodon+ford+preoil+tool&qid=1734453305&sprefix=milodon+ford+preoil+tool%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-2

Some others have commented that same approach - which is a great idea. Thanks!

The components are different but the adjustments, in terms of how to set camber/caster/toe, are essentially the same. Camber is identical - even though the lower control arms are Global West (I've since gone back to stock). The eccentric adjustment of the lower control arm is identical to stock. Caster is the same in as much as you lengthen or shorten the strut rod to adjust caster. Stock has a nut in front of and behind the frame - adjusting those nuts in unison to lengthen or shorten the strut rod is the same in operation as adjusting the length of the Global West strut rods. Stock steering is a box, pitman arm, drag link, and inner/outer tie rod ends - but the toe adjustment is at the outer tie rod - so it's the same adjustment as the Flaming River rack/pinion.

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 yea it works the same only looks diverend.. mebe confuse the beginners . That's what I mend.

Thanks for the feedback - I'll keep it in mind when filming future videos. I'm pretty sure the end links are installed correctly.

I'll have to check when I get back home. Don't recall anything stamped on the compressors - I've owned them a long time. Yes that's a bearing. Have you checked Summit Racing?

You're welcome!

Still working fine - so 2 years and still going ...

I assume you mean after you get the bolts out of it? Mine took a little wiggling, but it came off without a fight. If the existing pump is marine, its shaft should be stainless so there shouldn't be any corrosion. Are you dealing with corrosion on the shaft? If so, I'd probably start with Master Blaster. Worse case I'd then use a pulley puller.

Ah, good point. Yes, that eccentric bolt (with the cam on each end) is used to set camber. Loosen it, then turn the head to move the lower arm in/out to change the camber angle. That cam bolt is notorious for not holding its position - and I eventually experienced that. So I purchased a camber lockout plate to permanently fix the position of that bolt. It was a bit of trial and error finding the right bolt hole to use - but now it won't change.

For the most part - it did. A big enough bump and the fenders will still hit the tires. But it had gotten to the point where even small bumps were causing the problem.

Thank you for finding fault and, of course, sharing it through your sarcasm.

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 You don't see a problem with the lighting?

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 He's only saying what the rest of us are shaking our heads at. We cant see shyt bro.

Yes, the New Horizons is a national organization aimed at helping adults who want to play an instrument or pick up their instrument again after years of being idle. But thank you for your kind words of encouragement.

I actually didn’t realize that….. For a social group k know it can be fun making music at all levels.

If you have a closed cooling system (antifreeze in the engine separate from the seawater with a heat exchanger), then I would find a way to drain the coolant from the closed side before removing the circulating pump. Otherwise, yes, you'll have pretty much all the coolant in the engine empty into the bilge when you pull the pump. All my boats have been raw water cooled, so I'm not sure where the drain is for a closed system - but I'd look for the lowest point in the system.

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 Good information. Thank you for the quick reply. Cheers!

I did have to run the compressor as high in the spring as I could in order to keep it from bottoming out. I also released the tension from the anti-roll bar (mentioned that in the video) to allow the upper control arm to move down further (which allows the spring to decompress more fully, which allows you to get that compressor higher in the coils).

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 good point about the UCA's being in the lowest point. I have the sway bar out of the car. As best as I can judge from your video, that bolt does look a bit shorter. I will give it a go anyway. Thanks for the reply.

I'll add this hack for the long bolt spring compressor that I found last night in case others run in to this issue. ruclips.net/video/T6GAAG4rd8k/видео.htmlsi=QAPGYJM2VquA__HB

I did not use any Permatex or any other sealant. Those gaskets sealed fine (I did make sure the surface were wire-brushed and perfectly clean.)

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 Awesome! Thanks for taking time to reply

Actually my boat doesn't have those flappers.

I bought it many years ago and I don't remember exactly who made it - but I do think they are no longer available.

Thanks!

Thanks!

The lift needs a floor jack to raise it. Then it locks into place. Thanks!

One end of the lift retracts to the floor. You drive on it, then jack up the lower end using a regular floor jack. Once raised, you lock the tucked legs in place and lower the floor jack. It's very handy.

I put jack stands under the pinch welds at the jack points for the front. Usually jack stands under both sides of the solid axle tube for the rear. I've had no problems with the driveshaft.

Thanks!

Thanks a lot!

Happy holidays!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you very much!

Thanks 👍

Thanks!

This works on any Ford pushrod engine (non-modular). Quick research shows Ford did not introduce modular engines in the Mustang until 1996, so your 1994 5.0 should be a standard 302 pushrod engine. Does it have a distributor? If so, the distributor drives the oil pump and that engine should be pre-oiled before starting.

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 you know I decided to try this counterclockwise as said and nothing comes up on top.. I did do a oil filter relocator and when I try and prime it is going through the oil filter but again nothing up too. This was a donor motor from the 94 mustang gt. New oil pump and again it’s getting to the oil filter but nothing up top?

Hmm. How much resistance are you feeling on the drill? When the pump finally primes it takes quite a bit of counter torque to keep the drill from spinning in your hands. What weight oil (I'm usually using 30 weight break-in oil). It does take quite a while for oil to start coming down the rockers. @@Tantobuds619

@@bretthusselbaugh1198 I got it! Cough cough the relocation oil lines we’re reversed. Oil is flow now!

OK! Good deal! Good thing you worked through that before starting the engine.@@Tantobuds619

Thank you and you're welcome!