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Nice that they make reducers if you f up 😄. You’re gonna fill in the gap with something anyway to finish it off clean. thanks for watching and commenting .

The name plate on this new AC unit states Min ampacity is 23.9 Amps. Good to go luckily. I’ve seen 10-2 used for years and years on water heaters. Not allowed to phase number 10 doesn’t stop that it happens. At least it’s identified correctly. Thanks for watching and commenting . 👍

@YourFloridaElectrician you're right it doesn't stop that it happens but when you teach people the wrong way to do something thats just unprofessional. As a master electrician, I teach my apprentices not to take shortcuts like this as it will bite you in the end, or someone else...

Your recommendation for wiring this same circuit? 10-3 so you have a red wire that doesn’t need phasing for 6” on each end at a great additional expense? Not to mention a neutral wire that will not be used.

@YourFloridaElectrician WOW... You really are a hack, you're talking about skimping on code and safety to save a few dollars, how about you bid it correctly, install it correctly and pass inspection. So YOU are putting the customer at risk to put a couple extra dollars in your pocket. What a joke. And yes, if the load is rated at 30 amps or less, I would use 10/3, since thats code.... And not all AHJs are the same that crap might fly where you are but someone watching may install how you show and when the inspector fails them they are now out even more money...

Done 100’s of houses and it never failed. Some violations are critical and could burn down a house. But phasing a wire will not. The electricity does care what color the insulation is. There is no danger installation here. So where do you perform your inspections? God help them.

Yes. Or the onboard on / off switch or program a timer via the Leviton App.

@@markv.5962 yep sensor doesn’t move a whole lot. It is super sensitive on the side so better to mask it off with some masking tape.

@@YourFloridaElectrician thanks for the quick response. ill do that

@ anytime

@@YourFloridaElectrician one more question. is there a sensitivity adjusting screw on this? it goes on and off continuously. when it goes off ,it goes back on 5 seconds later. all night long. any advice would be great?

@@markv.5962 I don't see a sensitivity setting. Here is a couple things to check. 1. Make sure the on time is not on test. 2. Is the light above or near a heat source ie. air conditioner. It seems motion light can "see" the heat from heat sources, and they get triggered. 3. Make sure your neutral wire is connected securely. I had lights that will blink like that if the neutral is open. Hope this helps @markv.5962

Keeping it simple brother.

I believe I did that. Still takes time and can be a pain. Thanks for watching and commenting.

So glad this helped! Tamper resistant outlets are truely a pain in the a**, until you know hot to get around it. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍

Ty 🙏

What size breaker is on your oven circuit that tripped?

I think it’s 20A

Toaster oven??

Yup nice that I don't follow my own advise. Guilty of working hot so many times but I wouldn't recommend it, especially to those that don't understand the actual risk. Funny when you 1st do a video on RUclips you have no idea that maybe someday it will have 10's of 1000's of views. Just because I have worked like this for 20 years doesn't make it safe for me either. I have gotten better after this video to turn it off prior to working on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Hey Will. The outlet is one the Homeowner had removed and installed the wall connector there. He was not satisfied with the charging speed at 20 amps or so. (30 amp rated circuit) So he asked me to hardwire his wall connector to a 60-amp circuit. The outlet is the original that was there when the house was built so I'm sure it is not an EV rated outlet. I know he planned on using that outlet with his mobile connector but only if it was necessary, so I was not too worried about the outlet itself because it was going to be lightly used if used at all. Thank you for watching and commenting!! 😀

@ good that he will use the wall connector primarily. I had a certified electrician install one of those NEMA 14-50 outlets for us and they used a cheap outlet without telling us and it melted within a month. Needless to say I had them come out and get a wall connector provisioned but the scars still remain from that experience. Hope they enjoy that wall connector!

@@will0499 Wow sorry for your experience. I have heard that happening with other installations as well. I think what happens is the terminations in most cases are not torqued properly or even tightened. I'm luckily not had any problems with any of my installs. Enjoy your EV charger as well.

That’s awesome to hear! Thank you for watching and commenting. Feel free to like, share and subscribe to the channel. It helps a lot. 🙌

I see that, but it’s not necessary. The max the EV charger can pull is 50 A Even at 125% it’s only 62.5 A. Installed wire number six is rated for 65 A. . Why would I wanna go install a 70 amp breaker with a number four wire when it’s not necessary ? You certainly can if you want to . Thanks for watching and commenting .

@@YourFloridaElectrician I was just looking at purchasing this charger and that's what the MFG stated on their product page. I do know right now I have a 32amp Level 2 1450R connected to a 60amp breaker and it gets warm. EV charging at max current 8+ hours need different ratings I guess.

Yep, I agree. It does get warm. And it’s great that you’re reading the manufacturers instructions as well. For me, I prefer to charge a little bit slower for the overall health of the battery so I very seldom use 48 A..

Keep in mind if you do put the 70 amp breaker, you will have to install the # 4 wire size. That may also bump the pipe size up to 1 inch possibly.

Yes, sir. They are definitely not Leeds friendly. But it does keep kids with forks out of them. Thank you for watching and commenting . I’m glad it was helpful.

It’s all in the video. Unless I misunderstanding what you mean.

No dumb questions. Only the ones that are not asked. Bobby, the device I had there previously had its own “whip “ from the manufacturer. Not all manufacturers allow you to hardwire their devices. This one specifically allowed for it to run directly to the EV charger. In this case I would’ve had to pull a new run of number six wires which I didn’t wanna do. You’re absolutely right it would be better in the long run to have less connections. Just down the road I’ll be changing this one to another. Thank you for watching and commenting.

@@YourFloridaElectrician Hey. Thanks!

Thank you also for contributing to the channel.

Thank you for watching and commenting!

That’s why I’m here. 🙌 Thank you for watching, supporting the channel .

Honestly don't see the size used by the manufacture. Ones fused at 60 amps will usually have #6 wire. This one is only at 50 amps so it's possible could be the next size down. 🤷‍♀

Yes. The graduations on the dial are even but you can get the red dial in between the graduations so you can get an odd number as well. Thanks for watching and commenting .

You absolutely can! You can also group them together like I did. Thanks for watching and commenting

Tv bottom is about eye height. Speakers are a little high but didn't know what kind of sofa we were getting yet. (didn't want the speakers behind it) Looks great from where we are sitting given all the seat recline and even reclined our feet are not in the way of the screen. I asked everyone after this comment to see if anyone has experienced any neck pain yet and so far no problems. Luckily it worked out for us here. Do you do Audio installs for a living? Just wondering. Thanks for watching and the valuable input for us all.😉

Thanks Todd 🤩

Yes. Some people like the detailed, but it’s not for everyone.. I figure I’m gonna record it anyway might as well include the details. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. 🙏

Well Karl, The Ev charger is strictly 240 volts, no neutral needed. The plugged version 6/3 has that configuration because everyone is installing a NEMA 14-50 or range outlet which as two hot, one neutral and ground. The neutral on the plug going to the EV charger is not wired because it doesn't need it. A range on the other hand uses the neutral wire because it has 120-volt loads. Like the display and when certain heating levels of the cook top are desired. Hope this answers your question. The best compliment if you liked the content is to like, share and subscribe to the channel. 👍

Great question @walkngdude. I'm surprised I don't have a material links. Here is the strain relief I used: amzn.to/3VhbuSl

#6 THHN

Send me the link to the 1288 switch so I can check it out.

The Leviton 1288 switch will only switch one load at 220 volts. (Line in - Line out) This can be used to switch your water heater on / off if you want. Maybe you can use a Smart EV switcher? You can make a plug for your water heater or dryer and share one with your EV. Here's a link. amzn.to/4eJTKpD

@@Floridaboi321 yup! 👍

I don’t know why he would be pissed. He wanted you to check them. lol 😆 Thanks for watching and commenting

Wow. You should take some video and post it showing some of the shit work being done over there. 👉

Interesting. I’m not aware of it. If you could send me a link to Amazon so I can look at it.??

Glad you liked it, but I need a lot more videos. Not easy part-time.

If I recall correctly, when you take that end piece off, there is a hole there just big enough for the connector to slide into the glove box. Make sure the glove box is open.

Thanks mate, the challenge I had was yes you can poke the cable through the hole on the trim side, just no corresponding hole in the glovebox inside. Finally worked out that it needed to route into the glovebox via a small gap in/around the closest side of the glovebox "lever". A really tricky job, after 1/2 an hr of no luck and cursing madly, finally resorted to get a piece of thin wire as a conduit to connect the 2 holes and get the cable through. Maybe things are a little different for my 2024 MY RHD, but def not a simple job for a DIYer. Also another note for others, the dash light strip I was supplied was 110mm long but the length of the dashboard vent is 135mm, so unless I got sent the wrong product you need to start sticking the dashboard LED lights approx 100mm (4 inch) from the end. It would be a much better product if the LED light length fitted the whole length of the dash!

@pjjt4396 agreed! Mine I had to do something similar. Seem to be a couple inches shy to being all across on both sides. Looks great though when you’re going down the road.

I try. Glad it helped.

That’s awesome @elgatomarcus! Glad to hear. Are you doing the install yourself?

Curious of how your install came out? Do you want to share?

@@YourFloridaElectrician My brother installed and it was uneventful. I am very happy with the results. I went hard wired but with 40 amps and it's faster than I imagined.

@ElGatoMarcus Glad to Marcus! Glad it went well. Enjoyed the charger. It’s the one I use most currently.

They can be frustrating at times. Once you figure out you just have to wiggle it a bit the headache goes away. Sucks even if you don't have kids the code requires them for new installations. Thanks for watching and commenting

I hear ya! Just rock it back-and-forth it’ll go in.. 👍

Thanks for watching and the kind words.

Thanks again. Hopefully it helps.

Thanks for the kind words, man. And thank you for watching and commenting.