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This is the first one of you videos I've seen. I have the exact same Tender you have in the video. All four posts are broken. The outside of the shell looks good. Tried to glue them some years ago, but didn't work. I will try your solution very soon. You mentioned you only have one screw. I have three I guess one has been missing for a long time. I will post another comment after I tried the repair. The chassis of your tender practically looks brand new. My whistle works but not as good as it should.

Unnecessary work

Andy: Did you dis-assemble the push button uncoupler or did you solder the wires while the unit was still together? Where did you get the wire?

I have the same, was my Dad`s.

Thank you for the comprehensive video on this subject! I'm a complete newbie w trains and soldering both but my strong point is in patience with fiddly work, and this is certainly fiddly lol. Thanks for all the tips to make it easier.

This is really great! I have a bunch of tender shells and F3 shells with the same problem. Over time the screw mounting studs wore out from use and screws wearing on the stud. You also did a really nice cleaning job on the motor, relay and whistle.

I have a working postwar 38 water tower as well. They provide a great illusion to viewers when they work properly.

Looks like it's made some laps on Super O.

Try using an overhead camera also! 😊

Can you make sure you have the stuff you're trying to show us is in the picture frame! 😮

How to add constant voltage?

I found that a small center punch on the side of the spacer bar. Set the center punch on the middle of end of the spacer bar and tap it lightly with a small ball pen Hammer. It will spread out the metal just a tiny bit. That will keep it together.

Thank you for sharing your considerable knowledge with patience and clarity!

I have a question - I am trying to repair a Lionel Model 1130 locomotive (It was purchased in the early fifties but it still has the metal body). I've gotten the unit to run but only in reverse. I would like to repair the E unit but I can't see how it is fastened to the motor unit frame. The motor is part of the frame that also holds the wheels and the middle trail pickup rollers. The motor unit will actually run correctly without the body or the leading and trailing trucks. You can clearly see that the E unit is separate from the motor frame (it is a different material) and is installed in the motor frame. It might be a press fit but I am reluctant to try spreading the side of the motor frame apart. Do you know how to take the e-unit out?

Thank you for posting this series of videos, I learned so much!!! I have a 224E that belonged to my late Father and now i have it running, so my Grandchildren can enjoy a piece of their great grandfather. I had a faulty E-unit, and without your video, I never would have attempted this repair. Thanks again.

can you show me how the smoke unit puffs the smoke? i have a #2085 and it doesn't puff so I'm not sure the lever is doing its job. thanks

'PromoSM'

With regard to cleaning commutator slots, a toothpick is a lot safer. Scraping the windings with sharp metal objects takes off insulation. I think 224s with shiny handrails and a rounded cab floor were from 1946. It was only offered one other year in the postwar: 1945. These models had blackened handrails and a squared off cab rear, as with prewar 224s

Hi, where can I buy the 3 and 2 fingers for the e-unit?. Thanks a lot Andy's PS:I hope your RUclips channel keeps on growing, you have great videos

Hi Andy, Nice solution to that problem & clever repair job. May I suggestion you use a started screwdriver to relieve the stress of starting those slotted screws. Thanks for keeping the good ideas coming. - Sam

Good Morning Andy, I just wanted to say thank you. I have to rewire 5 of these for my postwar layout that I’m in the process of building. I was so confused on how to rewire these controllers until I found your video. You did a wonderful job on explaining the entire process and making it so simple to complete this task. I am a new subscriber to your channel. 😊

You did not mention one of the most critical parts of the rebuild. There are two spacing /insulating issues not mentioned in your vid. The proper alignment of the insulating squares and the plastic "doughnut" that sits between the spring contact "arms". The spacing between the contacts themselves and the use of the plastic spacer to prevent contact. Also there is a difference in thickness between the square Bakelite insulators that go between each of contact springs. I think you could do a whole video on that issue alone. I did learn some things about alignment of the wire which I will use in my shop.

Thanks for show US the proper way to use the E-unit spreader.

Great video and great patience! I learned a lot.

I hope you do a video of repairing that pesky motor

I’ve recently decided to take my 224E out of a box where it has sat since 1982 when my great great uncle died who left this for me. Iys got a coal cart connected but it appears he built something out of wood to create space between the bottom of the coal cart and the trucks. I was wondering if you knew of a place where I could send pictures and get advice on how to address this? If not, is there a way to send you a couple pics to peruse and provide advice? Time is valuable and I would be willing to compensaste you for any of yours. Thank you for any consideration.

Great informative video, conducted with a charming, friendly narrative. Thanks Andy.

Promo SM 👊

Excellent descriptive tutorial - with one exception. Did you have to disassemble the controller interior parts in order to solder the wires? If so, I wish that was shown. There is so little space to work that I presume you disassembled the copper plates inside the controller. Am I missing something? Thank you very much for this totorial. Hope you feel better!

Excellent descriptive tutorial - with one exception. Did you have to disassemble the controller interior parts in order to solder the wires? If so, I wish that was shown. There is so little space to work that I presume you disassembled the copper plates inside the controller. Am I missing something? Thank you very much for this totorial. Hope you feel better!

Those pliers at the end. I think would be lot better a device that closes with the action of a screw, to put only the correct amount of pressure to close the unit; no more. With the pliers te pressure can be excessive and I think, it can be ruined more easily. Just an opinion.

Looks like a very tricky work. That needs a lot of knowledge and patience. I understand it is not easy to work with the unit an also let the image of the video to be clear. So I will suggest to have some kind of drawing to make clear what you are trying to repair. I love this trains, they have been part of my life. In recent years I bought in eBay a Santa Fe F-3 2343 It is running. I’m amazed the way it was constructed. Built for life !

We have one of these also, or at least I think we have all the pieces. I have yet to try getting it to work. Ours has a curved path in the corral though.

Andy, thanks for this 3 part series. After many years I decided to break out my dad’s old train set, which worked right out of storage, but then decided to do some long overdue maintenance. This process discovered that the brushes needed replacement, armature needed cleaning and broken E-unit fingers. I bought all the replacement parts and your video greatly helped me reassemble the E-unit and get the locomotive working better than ever. I gotta say that aligning 2 fingerboards, barrel and alignment pin was pretty challenging.

A great engine to work on. Thanks for the video Andy.

Andy, I successfully rebuilt the Eunit on a 224, using your videos as my guide. It was my first attempt at train repair. Did it for my grandson. After completion we ran it for about 15 minutes on a small oval track layout. Suddenly it died and I thought a wire must’ve come loose, but that was not the case. I disassembled it and checked it and it looked good. Finally, I went back to the track checked it for connectivity and it was good. Lo and behold it was the transformer, which was dead as a door nail. I’ve ordered a new one, but I am still curious why it died. Do you have any clues? I can’t imagine that it was overloaded but anything is possible I suppose. I’m stumped on this and chalking it up to bad luck.In any case, your videos are spectacular and I thank you again for doing them.

What size wire are you using? Stranded or Solid? I’ve noticed on prewar a cloth covered wire is used, the wire to the collectors appears to be a heavier wire.

Good job. I've never seen an e-unit that gunked up. I have used a green scratch pad to clean the plunger. Interesting tool you have to separate the frame.

what is name of the service book

Nicely done, can't tell which side was repaired, excellent!

Im excited to learn, im new to hobby and just recently inherited a 1964 lionel train set. The engine stops moving forward and reverses on its own. im thinking its the e-unit but not sure. Would love to know your thoughts.

"Without getting TOO much cancer".......Lol! The best video I've seen so far for the E-Unit repair...Thanks! I'll be looking for one of those tools in an upcoming train show. My e-unit is in relatively good shape but the reverse is not working. It's a 1956 (from what I can tell) 2016 2-6-4 Adriatic. I have to break contact 7-times for a complete cycle to get the motor operating so I;m assuming it's the e-unit not making good contact.

Liked the video, but wish he had close ups.

Hey Andy great series of videos...Today I just let the videos run as I was basically doing the same thing.. I picked up a pre war 224 that was in a shoe box in pieces 😳..It's a bit like c.s.i. work wondering what? How? Why? would someone do that.. I've cleaned everything up put it back together. It runs the e unit cycles ....runs excellent in reverse but in forward it gets loud kind of seems like it fighting itself.. I've swapped wires still same thing...I have a different e unit getting ready to try that now..Thanks again for documenting skills in the hobby 💣💥💯👍

I have a 2056 that I'm going to clean with Vaseline to try to help it out. How do you clean the valve gear?

Thank you for posting sir.

As soon as the war ended Lionel rushed to get one train set out for Christmas and the 224 was the loco chosen for the set.As you can imagine demand was high,supply scarce and sold out in one day.Many disappointed boys that year,including me.

You might try brushing on some Armorall.

I found some on eBay for my Lionel 229

I have a 224 coming and I have at least one other (both prewar ) but they are real nice engines .Nice video .I have been heasatent to take them apart .