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My blinker has two connectors and yours has three. Where do the wires go? Thanks for your time.

There is renogy BT and Renogy dc home the one in the video it the renogy bt app on android. I see it still in the Google play store.

Maybe I'll make a part two that is part 1 😀. After removing air filter It really is just a few bolts and a fuel line to take it off....

This is just one relay it has a potentiometer to adjust the timing of how long it blinks. The right and left light circuits are wired in parallel with individual maintained switch/button.

@offgridutah1 is there any way to make that work with the oem turn signal stalk on my 1987 jeep cherokee? I also need emergency blinkers to work with my stock emergency blinker switch

@nikthepunisher6255 if you bypass what's there and wire this circuit into the stock lights it should work just make sure to use correct wire size and fuse on each circuit

Wow thats so cool try alaska

Saskatchewan here has the world record rainbow giants in lake diefenbaker

Thanks

Thanks 😊

I bought them from amazon.Amazon. There's a link in the description of this video. ruclips.net/video/OS63VZUDIls/видео.htmlsi=v4asWLjDZBiKzjHA

Thanks, I've never seen them that opaque. I went back there on the yester and same thing, Tons of fish, same color, except in the shallows when we went in with an indicator. The shallow water bug eaters had more color to them.

Just a button or the whole kit put together?

@@offgridutah1 the kit

@@offgridutah1 well everything but the lights

Every thing

Do you want just the parts so you can put one together, or do you want one that I have pre built?

One way this could be accomplished without a controller is that each light could have its own relay and each light relay would have a potentiometer set to a different position so that each light could be on or off for different periods of time this would require some different wiring methods than what is shown in this video. There are other ways to do this but the easiest way is to use some sort of controller so you can control the outputs for the coils of a relay for the period of time of your choosing.

You can power it from the inverters input terminals... this way your shunt can also measure how many watts the cerbo gx is pulling in the background

Thanks I haven't heard of that. I've been doing it that way for 30 years. I'm always open to doing things better. Do you have any literature to support that? I would be willing to read through it. I definitely wouldn't want to drown a fish in water.

@@offgridutah1 I learned it from a trout fishing seminar put on by CA DFW where they spent about 30-45 minutes discussing proper fish handling techniques for catch and release. Gills only work in one direction, so pulling them backwards blocks their ability to breathe. Kind of like if our lungs were to fill with water. The ideal method with trout is to use a lip gripper and do figure 8s until they start kicking. With bass and other less-toothy species, you can just hold their lip with your fingers.

This is one of the local water ponds we have half a dozen nearby, just waiting for the snow to melt so we can get through the mountain passes to the real good ones. I'll be sharing those here in hopefully a month or so. Thanks for asking. This fish was double the average size so kind of fun to get a big one for that little pond.

@@offgridutah1 Nice. I know the feeling. Where I’m from I spend the spring fishing for panfish and coarse fish like carp and gar waiting for walleye, bass and musky to open up. The tug is the drug!!

You would need to use a regular relay that is triggered to turn on when the blinker gets powered and you would wire the coil as a start stop circuit with memory.

I fish with a 5wt 8'6 st croix and a 6wt 9' TFO.

@@offgridutah1 I got so addicted to my 5 wt , in Alberta,,,, with a dry fly setup ,,,,, but I need to branch out learn how to fish streamers and nymphs,,,, thnx for the info 🤟

@southpawsudz3552 the tug is the drug 😀.

1 relay runs both together.

The click is from the relay because it has moving parts inside. Solid state relays wouldn't make that sound. It is possible to change relays, but solid state relays usually last longer.

If the converter is changing ac to dc usually there is a wattage limit that can burn it out if exceeded unless there is a safety built into it. I haven't used that exact one so I can't say for sure.

@@offgridutah1 I had to go back and reread the Amazon listing and discovered notes that depict the operation of the A121203 unit: 1. When the input voltage is AC10-14V, the output current is less than 1A; when the output voltage is 12V, it is not recommended to output with load at this time, because the conversion efficiency is low at this time; the output 12V after loading will cause the output to be unstable and big output fluctuation. The load is too big to start! 2. When the input voltage is AC15-AC28V, the conversion efficiency of the module is ≥90%, and the output voltage can maintain DC12V±0.25V. At this time, the 3A module can support long-term work within 2A, and the 5A module can support long-term work within 3.5A! Based on these Notes, the unit should not go into overvoltage protection mode at when it sees 16-19 V as that's the range you are supposed to start applying load to the unit.

I haven't weighed it but it's super light and easy to walk with while inflated because it's balanced. I have trolled with it in high winds using fins and it performs well. It seems like it would handle an electric trolling motor just fine. I don't know how much I will use that feature because it handles so good in the wind.

@@offgridutah1 Thank you. Interesting that you used it in reverse - where the back is where you sit in the front. Your unit's proportions seem different from their website picture though I'm sure it is the same unit. Does the top flat 'crossbeam platforms' (not sure what to call it) come off or are they permanently attached? And you have two platforms or one? The ones on their website has two while yours show only one. Thanks again.

@2musiclover534 The platform that holds the motor mount is removable. When it's attached it doubles the platform area. The seat, bags and rod holders are all removable as well. It's quite the tube 😀

@@offgridutah1 Awesome. What is the max psi of the platforms and the tubes? And the oar holding inflatable part is not removable? Thanks

@2musiclover534 when I called the manufacturer they said pump it up until there is no give and it's hard as a board. It comes with a pump. Not sure how much psi as more air is needed based on temperature.

I built this box to hook onto an atv that already has running lights and brake lights

Most of these patterns have been battle tested on Utah waters. I hope your local trout will honor them with a bite.

Yes I predrilled my holes and filled them with dicor. Put in the bolt. Dicor over bolt head then eternabond tape. A little overkill bit I wanted it leak free. The vhb tape gives a good bond to the roofliner so not as many holes are needed.

@@offgridutah1 thanks for the quick reply. I’m debating on not doing screws. My current solar is on a roof rack but I’ve got space for a few more panels by going direct to the roof and when I tried doing that in the past the screws felt like they fell into nothing. I’ve seen a few videos of people doing just VHB, dicor and eternabond tape so I might give that a try

@@thecumminscamper use a stud finder and try to get at least one bolt per side. I reccomend 4 bolts per panel. The bolts will keep the panel locked down in high wind. If you ever get a Crack in the roof liner and air can get in the solar panels will remove the liner. I realize that they are also glued down but not perfectly everywhere is there glue. Bolts add durability if a tree branch gets a hold of a panel too. Instead of tearing the liner it will keep its integrity.