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Yes, the empty lift can be moved by sliding it. Mine is setting on plastic plates approx 10mm thick so the water (rain or snow runoff) doesn't contact the feet and cause them to rust. Or by purchasing the dollies to lift it and move it.

Yes, standard 110V three-prong outlet. I have a small pancake air compressor running on the same circuit. Occasionally, both the lift pump and air compressor run at the same time without tripping a breaker. Not knowing what size SUV you have, I cannot confidently answer if your garage is wide enough. However, the distance from the outside of the post to the other side of the left bay door opening is 10'. Each of my single doors is standard 9' wide. I park my Land Cruiser (full size body-on-frame SUV) in the left bay and am able to fully open its side doors without touching the runways of the lift. Keep in mind, the outside of the runway is 14" inside the post; i.e., from the side of the left bay garage door, the post is 12" outside that, and the runway is an additional 14" = 26" Suggestion: draw with chalk the footprint of the posts and runways on your garage floor. BendPak's website has detailed drawings with dimensions of each model. Perhaps use 4x4 or 6x6 posts to simulate the lift posts and boards to simulate the runways. And then see if you have enough room.

@@angolain1 thank you! Do you know how many inches is the space from inside the columns to the outside edge of the runways? My Suv is bmw x5

My runways are as spread as wide as possible with this model, HD-9. Cross beams are fixed width. Other models have wider widths available. For example, those with greater weight capacities.

No cutting required. Direct bolt in replacement. 👍

First of all, awesome you have a S2000! They are so much fun!

No, columns are not anchored (bolted) to the floor. It is not required unlike a 2-post lift. From Bendpak's website: www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/do-4-post-lifts-need-to-be-bolted-down/ Unlike 2-post lifts, which absolutely need to be bolted down, 4-post lifts disperse weight across a wider surface area and are engineered to lift vehicles with or without drop-in anchor bolts . The decision to bolt down a four-post lift or other parking lift is often based on personal preference, so here are a few things to consider.

Also see reply to GBass's comment.

DIY? Yes. Cost? Depends on options, capacity, concrete, logistics, utilities, labor, and peripherals. I suggest checking Bendpak’s website for their latest pricing.

That's what I am putting it on as well

Yes.

For clarification, are you asking how much room from top (convertible roof closed) of S2000 at storage/raised height to the ceiling? Or are you asking how much room from runway to ceiling with S2000 in stored position?

@@angolain1 Sorry, I was asking how much of a gap do you have left from the roof of the S2000 to the ceiling? I have a 9.5 ft ceiling and I too have an s2000 on stock suspension.

@@Kienetic 5" from highest point of S2000 roof (in closed position) to ceiling. 6-1/2" from windshield frame (center, roof open) to ceiling. In other words, if I keep the S2000 roof open, I can lift it one additional notch higher for more clearance under the lift. Recall, when lowering the car from one of the safety lock positions, one must first raise the car about 1-1/2" to retract the safety lock mechanism before lowering the car. Similarly, to lift a car to its storage hieght, raise the car past the safety latch slot, and then lower the car to the safety locked position. With the 1/2" plastic plates under each post, I have: 59-1/2" clearance under the runway with the S2000 stored with roof closed. 56" from top of runway to ceiling. My Volvo in the video is 1462 mm (57.6") high. Hope that helps.

1 comment As I was assembling it, I moved the posts slightly. Lift is centered side to side to garage door opening. Front to back, it is located as far forward into the garage as I can, against the corner of the wall cabinet (upper left of the camera’s field of view). Feet are not lagged/bolted to the floor. That is my choice because the floor is not graded correctly and water does not drain to the center as it should. Instead, it puddles around the two right posts. I didn’t want the anchors exposed to so much water (particularly salty snowmelt) and corrode/rust. Furthermore, each of the four posts rest on 1/2” thick HDPE (plastic) plates so the steel base plates are not exposed to standing water. These two conditions require steady inputs when driving onto or off the runways. Sudden stops or accelerations will shift the lift a bit fore/aft. It is certainly preferred to lag the base plates to the floor.

@@angolain1 Wow, makes sense but I would find another solution. Great vid though.

@@gbass7328 Yeah, I don't disagree. The ultimate solution is to tear out the concrete floor, repour it with correct grade, and then install the lift including anchoring the baseplates.

Thank you. Ceiling is 10’. Lots of measuring to confirm size, not just height, but length and width. I outlined the footprint of the four posts and two runways in chalk along with standing 6”x6” pieces of wood as posts for several weeks before pulling the trigger. Perfect fit as I can close garage door with approach ramps (yellow) in place. And don’t forget the high lift garage door tracks. Tucks the garage door tight to the ceiling within 1-2”.

@@angolain1 Thanks for the info! I have a 9'5" ceiling. Arrgh! It's 2 door garage with standard doors. I only have 6" from door to side wall and 8.5" between the two doors. Main reason for the lift is to work on my cars and being able to store cars would be a bonus! Been researching for years what type of lift to get. Still undecided between 4 post or a scissor lift. I like the idea of a scissor lift because it won't get in the way too much and easier to work on car. I did some rough calcs over the years and I think I can only store a standard car and a sports car on a 4 post lift (no sports car yet - lol). Lots of work still to get garage ready for a lift. As you said, I need to raise the garage door rails plus get rid of my massive 8x9' shelf and stuff on top of it. My driveway can park 4 full size SUVS. I can't complain but you have my dream driveway! Good idea about test layout with mock posts. I have lots of 4x4s. I'll share my lift when I get around to installing one. Subscribed...

How is that procedure accomplished?

Under headliner back of of the trunk. Take off the smaller panel right behind the tilgate gasket ( it is pushed in on the clips) then you can lower headliner and you'll see 2 motors behind tailgate hinges. Good luck.

Wish oh wish I could have a wagon too......

In my experience that’s just the feel of the Volvo gearbox, notchy isn’t bad

Yes, Hero4 with suction cup mount.

Well to answer my own question, one of the bolt that hold the trunk sheered off..

@@LunchmoneyH I just had this happen to ours. One bolt that screws into the LH hinge broke off and now I am trying to figure out how to extract the actual hinge, so that I can extract the broken bolt from it. Have any tips on how to do this?

Yes, they can be replaced at home with basic tools. I misplaced the photos I took along the way, otherwise I would compile a how-to video or forum post.

Replace the two motors attached to the hinges. They are located above the headliner. With basic tools, one can replace them yourself, which I did. Once the new ones are installed, they need to be programmed to the car, which unfortunately means a trip to the dealer for a nominal fee. The motors are expensive though.

What are the kids supposed to say, 'no papa we don't like that exhaust' ?

Me 2

Dafuq is atacampa what?

@@gavinvalentino1313 That is the name of that interior leather color.