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It's very possible you have low fuel pressure, just before the pump goes out completely this can happen. Where the engine fires up and idles, but bogs down when you step on the gas. Unfortunately the best step is to take a fuel pressure and flow test. You need to know 100% it is a failing pump. You can buy pretty inexpensive fuel pressure test gauges for this car on Amazon, and I know some auto part stores rent them out, or even lend them out.

@@ripsgaragei had this problem first now I switch out my spark plugs and the car just cranks and I was thinking spray starter fluid and it kick over and cut right off I’m gonna change out my fuel pump because I don’t hear it chime at all

They definitely can, but always check this one first, because it's low cost and on these models is the one that causes vibrations. The front ones often just cause movement in the powertrain, and can leak hydraulic fluid out.

Sorry man, trying to get better at it!

@@ripsgarage it's all good

Looks worse than it is, this was my 4th evap core replacement on 996/997's. It was just about 10 hours in and out.

@@ripsgarage thanks for the reply. Yes, it looks like a nightmare, lol. I was looking at purchasing a 986 with a bad evap core and the quote to fix was almost as much as the asking price on the car.

Thanks for the feedback, definitely trying to start make better and clearer vids!

Sounds like a voltage drop, bad connection, etc. But, have you already tried disconnecting each one at the bus bar to see if the code can be cleared and those items start working?Also, be sure your battery isn't faulty and has more than 12 volts, with ignition OFF, if not it can affect how the modules operate too.

What codes do you have in all the modules? Anything relating to the k bus? If no codes at all pointing in that direction, check your power and grounds at the cluster, you may be looking at a faulty cluster itself, considering you have no other symptoms and no bus codes in any other modules.

You may have bad front engine mounts, but before anything scan all the modules especially the powertrain and make sure there aren't any codes relating to drivability. Usually when the turning the steering the engine module increases the rpm, to compensate for the load. I have seen low steering fluid cause shuddering too. Look under the mounts, with car jacked up and belly pans off, if you see a heavy dark stain, or some times orange/yellow stain under the mounts, they have leaked they're hydrolic fluid and are faulty. I have also seen where cheap aftermarket engine mounts are used to replace and can cause this too.

Ha ha! Thank you man!

Sorry for the late reply. Have you looked for a used radio for it?

Not on this vehicle, usually a small lean condition will have no other symptoms other thana lit MIL. But a larger lean condition or faulty MAF can. You can still follow these tests to help locate the problem, if you have these two DTC set in the DME. Look closely at your MAF g/s . If your having those symptoms, that's where I would start first. If it ends up being a bad MAF, don't buy a cheap one, only use a dealer one or and OEM brand like VDO

It's a bit tough when you have a CSL box, there should be 1 or 2 ports in the box you can adapt the smoke machine too. Although it will leak out thru the air cleaner inlet. Depending on what style you have, you'll be able to fabricate something to either remove and plug the air cleaner or the intake port going into the box. You may not need to plug it if you see any leaks right away, but in order to have enough pressure in the plenum, you'll have to get creative to make sure no smoke is leaking out of it.

You're welcome!!

You're welcome!!

You could have damage internal to the transmission, or engine flywheel. Depending on the model of the transmission, I will usually remove the torque convertor to flywheel bolts and push the convertor in just slightly, and run the engine, if the vibration goes away, it's inside the transmission. If it does not, the flywheel, crankshaft, or harmonic balancer may be to blame. Take a close look at the harmonic balancer with the engine running, they are very very common failures.

@@ripsgarage Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I will get my mechanic to give this a try.

MX/MK 900 or 808 are the least expensive Autel, and supports OEM BMW. However if you have an early model E46 with the 20 pin diagnostic connector under the hood, you'll need an Autel with OBD1 connectors, like the MP900KIT

Thanks man! Appreciate it!!

Hi, which clips are difficult to seat? I've done it both ways. But It seems I end up doing it more with the entire console out, since it doesn't take too long and prevents breaking the console. Some of those boots are in there tight if they have been in there for decades. When the boot is new and pliable, seems to come out from the top easily. Otherwise, it's safest to just remove the console I would say.

@@ripsgarage got it figured out, they are pressure clips, not insert clips, so was quite easy once I stopped trying to open tabs

Good job man!!

Do you have any warning lights that appeared after the vibration began? Engine misfire can be interpreted as a vibration as well. I would have a full scan done of the modules and see if any diagnostic codes show misfires.

@@ripsgarage For the time I did that, there is no symbol and everything is healthy and there is no light like that 💁‍♂️

Great job, thanks for the feedback!

That's awesome!

Hi there, are you able to connect to modules now? If not, that is the first step. You need to have communication. If you can connect to certain modules, you need to figure out which modules are not connecting, if you can't connect to any module, especially the DME, than you have a complete network failure, and that should be easier to diagnose. It can be wiring, or one of the two nodes at the end of each network. Typically the DME is one of the nodes. You always need to establish communication or what is not communicating before furthering any diagnostics or testing.

@@ripsgarage i removed all rugs by now disasembled all k bus modules but still have grounding isue to k bus i think i could have a broken wire. With impa i cant conect to eny i/k bus module that is nightmare dont know where to start and nobody wants to have hands here beclause car is from uk made to eu. Why dme ? Can bus is working i can drive with the car but the k bus like is messing up all cominications. I diskonected all mudules exept engine department and wbasta jus checking the broken wire i have short to ground to 40-60 omh the number is changed when riped a rug out of the car. Any advice ?

@@egipet9412 Ok so Can bus is good, just k-bus is faulty. Can you disconnect all k-bus modules, than disconnect all the k bus wires at the bus bar, and check continuity to ground on each wire? See if one in particular is grounded?

@@ripsgarage yes. Today i got full diagram of my car and find out a wbasta is on k bus line, so i unpluged it and problem is solved... That was alot of work with such a simple problem.

@@egipet9412 That's awesome man! Good Job!!

P1092 is a slightly different DTC for lean condition. Similar testing process by monitoring STFT and LTFT on both banks. It's usually a faulty upstream oxygen sensor. I believe both bank 1 and bank 2 oxygen sensors are the same exact part number on this engine. I would mark for identification and swap one sensor over to the other bank. Than disconnect the battery overnight or use the battery cable shorting method to reset the DME completely, which in turn resets fuel adaptations to 0. Than drive the car and when the MIL returns, see if the DTC moved to the other bank, P1090. That will confirm Bank 2 sensor was faulty and when moved to Bank 1, set the corresponding DTC. Hope that helps. If not, definitely follow some of the tips in the vid for checking on a lean running engine!

On this vehicle, Yes the driver side (Left) is your pump! Also, try tapping on it and see if it makes any noise or starts the engine momentarily.

@@ripsgarage thanks for fast reply sir I did try that no luck. It shows on my multimeter I’m getting 16v to the drivers side fuel pump wire harness. Not sure why it’s saying 16v. I tried swapping relays said same thing.

@@Itzvinnyboii It could be the meter, try placing it directly on the battery and see if it reads correctly. Also, just be sure you have some fuel in there, I've had a few where the gauge was inaccurate and had no fuel and the pump was loud, due to sucking in air. But sure sounds like your heading to a bad fuel pump.

@@ripsgarage battery read 12v so I’ll just say it’s the meter too. I have half a tank of gas in the car. If the passenger pump was bad would the drivers side still try to prime? I’m pretty sure the pump is bad but I’m trying to narrow down what one it is

@JohnDoe-gi1vr thanks bro yes I replace my drivers side it was the issue my passagener pump is still running good after 242,000 miles lol

Hi there, if you are pulling the same fuse as in this Vid, and no longer have a drain, have you tried disconnecting this controller next to the shifter yet? It is a known failure for this problem. If you are pulling a different fuse, which one is it? And how many amps or milliamps is the drain?

@@ripsgarage it is fuse 23 on my car as well, when i disconnected the handsfree link the multimeter did not change. the only time I saw the multimeter change was when I removed fuse fuse. I disconnected every other module on the diagram in your video and none made the multimeter go down.

@@stephenhodge3581 And while disconnecting the hand free, you have the doors closed? Or door switched disconnected/triggered?

@@ripsgarage i had the switch ungrounded like you show in your video

@@stephenhodge3581 What's your total drain?

Thank you I appreciate it!

Typically you want to scan the engine computer first with an OEM level scanner, and see if there are any misfire codes, or fuel mixture codes. If everything is clear there, than put a floor jack under the engine oil pan, with a block of wood in between, and slightly take the pressure off the front engine mounts, if the roughness goes away, you may have bad front mounts. If it doesn't place it under the transmission like in the vid, and see if that changes the roughness. The idle fluctuation may or may not be all of the problem. Also, be sure you used the correct spark part number when cross referenced with OE plugs, and of a decent brand. And absolutely make sure they were torques to spec, Even when tight, they can slightly loosen with heat contraction and cause intermittent misfires.

@@ripsgarage thanks for the advice. It ended up being a misfire caused by the intake plenum not being seated correctly.

@@ripsgaragehey I got a 2016 gle 350 took to shop to get a service b and when I got it back check engine light on and car shaking any idea what happen?

Sorry for the late reply, the scan tool is not available. I work with Innova Electronics when they were developing that tool, is how I came to have one. However, Innova's 5610 model on amazon, has the same functions and more. Here is the link to that one. Definitely a great tool to have for any car your working on! www.amazon.com/5610-Bidirectional-Lifetime-OE-Level-Functions/dp/B07Z481NJM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=27MCXE1WKNSV6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5OuLx6wXvy-8fCMsPPDJXy8NVYwzmdLSePW6_YgDFfr-OVuQw1AHu30E78snIF-7xReHXKK9oGEFgN6nzx52rDHZn_AwomuWftYTp8FEy0xGcm-54L2oCJyzUnqxEENgYCvNxA2xhnHSYiPpi5n5GZWgYEb6MzI4RhiT_kQDPxx9TFBn8Tr78467lGK6Q8jDsl4edhTCn47hutu6xaDD-w.cP5iz0tR_VDJB0S5hwhV2nE_qxwhh-P1Jfy3zpcko0M&dib_tag=se&keywords=5160+innova&qid=1709340857&sprefix=5160+innova%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Man, you are good.! When I made the vid, I quickly put it together and searched for an image for the thumb, and didn't even think about it until now. I had a pic of the actual car, but it wasn't great. I'm gonna have to change that, man your sharp!!

That's awesome man! You know I see quite a few manufacturers make the heater core accessible and the evaporate almost never is. But seems todays parts are just as not good quality as I see just as many evaporator failure nowadays!

Hi, what year and model do you have? Do you have a OE level scan tool and if so are you able to scan the modules to see what errors show up ? Specifically for the park sensors?

When a battery goes bad, it can store low voltage codes in many different modules, sometimes clearing them is enough. You would need to have DTC's for a k-bus fault in order for this problem in my video to apply. Try disconnecting both battery cables, touch them together (while disconnected) do this for 30 minutes, That will discharge all the modules, and often no communication problems are cured, or cured temporarily. Sometimes the cables wont reach each other and I'll use a wire or meter lead with two alligator clips attached and I'll short them together that way.

Yes! Sorry for the late reply. Do you also have k-bus DTC's in modules?

Sure sounds like a module fault, can you communicate with every module? Try separating each module from the k-bus like in the video, on this vehicle I also did not have cluster backlighting.

Awesome job man!

ha ha, yah sometimes I go back to my roots and use what I have in front of me! Thanks! Yah, next vid for sure I'm gonna show the evacuation and fill process!!

Honestly Im not 100% sure, but I know they are different part numbers.

@@ripsgarage yeah exactly. I got an f30 HUD and want to swap screens only on my x3 f25 I don't know if it works 🤔

@@vasourumashvili4535 I doubt it, only because I looked up both HUD on eBay and in the pics the connections look different the X3 has two connectors.

My 2016 X5 HUD also stopped working. My battery is still the original, should I replace my battery too?

@@borisbulldog Sorry for the late reply. I'm going to have to say yes. If you have the ability to scan the modules, you can do that first in order to see any relevant codes for low voltage. But, if it's doing the same thing where it's "greyed out," in the menu. The battery is usually the culprit!

Thanks!