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Thanks a lot. I appreciate it 🙏🏾

I think I remember seeing a company make something like that back in the day but I can't remember who. It used to come up with googling "C5 Audi Allroad body kit" then looking through the results. Company ILLTEK makes this and another company made a cheaper version images.app.goo.gl/4UG8CvvQUHrkPKDPA

Been so long I can't remember but you can do the conversion for which ever I mentioned in the video.

It's a 2001

The wheels are oem 20" Audi Lemans wheels with 265 30 20 tires. If I remember correctly it had lowering springs on it when I got it. Can't remember which though.

I think the only way is to replace the o-ring but you should confirm that's where the leak is coming from.

I have a 2.7t Allroad. I think the camshaft seals are the same.

@cmidas3396 I thought so that's good to know. New Zealand is very useless for parts. Very expensive for parts here if they have the part.

@teerex9149 Have you tried Ebay?

@cmidas3396 Ebay I haven't purchased anything from them yet. But I've tried Amazon and my parts I've got so far are all waiting on the 4 camshaft position sensors. Including my fuel vent hose.

Nothing official out there but it has just about all of the usual suspects. Ported supercharger, 034motorsport Stage2+ and trans tune, intake, motor mounts and 207mm crank pulley, driveline inserts, MercRacing HX & divorced cooling loop, test pipes, snowperformance water/methanol system. Might be forgetting somethings but it should be all in my videos.

No, there should be no fuel smell aside from what came out after removing the hpfp. There may be some residual fuel smell initially form what came out from removing the hpfp bit it should go away. If not, check for leaks at the fuel line fittings at the hpfp.

@cmidas3396 yes fuel def dumped around that area. I'll clean it then check for the fuel smell in a couple days.

Sounds good 👍🏾

You sure it's not just the belt? I started having belt squeal and tried changing every pulley but it kept squeaking. Ended up cutting one rib off of the 034 supplied belt and that solved it. No issues since.

@ I legit wanna schedule a phone call with you

@ I replaced one idler pulley, on the 207 I can see where it was rubbing against. Replaced the idler and got some clearance, started it and the squeak was gone. Drove it home and it was back. Smh

@tannerlandry7834 Same here. I ended up cutting one rib off of the supplied belt and it hasn't squeaked since.

@@cmidas3396 that will be my next try. Thank you.

Yes, it's possible. I've done quite a bit of work in their without removing the bumper. Just gotta use the right tools

@@cmidas3396 thanks for the reply. One more question can you put the 034 crank pulley and other pulleys on without turning or flashing the ecu?

@johnbriscoejr9738 I did but only for a very short time until I was able to have it tuned. The bypass valve will just vent any extra boost that's over stock levels. You should atleast have an aftermarket HX and lower heatrange sparkplugs though to keep things safe because the charger will still be spinning faster resulting in higher intake temps.

Thanks 👍🏾

Really? From what I've seen of the newer BMW's, they are fast.

@cmidas3396 B58 wise. N55s can be fast too but still I prefer the C7 A6.

@cammgt3rs370 Yeah I've been thinking about getting a newer BMW or Mercedes at some point. Definitely wanna stick with all wheel drive whatever I get. Probably gonna sale my Allroad and get a SQ5 though sooner.

Thanks , I really appreciate that 🙏🏾

I was going to upgrade the lpfp but I haven't seen any evidence that it would benefit the dpi system in the C7. A lot of people upgrade it on the C7.5 mpi system though.

In theory it should but it doesn't. When you move to the bigger HX, leaving the smaller hx will restrict flow. You want as much flow as possible. This is common knowledge in the 3.0t community fyi. Also I have a divorced system now.

So how did you remove it ?

@ so far I didnt continue as my grill was confiscated by customs lol. But I bought a small angle torx 25 and an endoscope to find the exact position. Then Ill use a picking tool to put a hole thru the styrofoam bar …. in theory. Everyone tells me to just remove the bumper but at this point its personal between me and the Audi engineers putting what feels like 200 screws plus 500 clips to hold a half a pound of plastic.

No, I think my car didn't have it.

Can't remember exactly but I think I used a small torx bit ratchet to get to the screws behind the grille.

Yeah I don't always feel like taking the bumper off for things so I often fund ways to do work without removing it.

Most of us change them when they break or upgrading to a aftermarket sport or race mount. You can check if one or both of your mounts are broken by with the hood up, car running while pressing hard on the brake pedal also press the gas pedal a few times and watch to see if there is excessive engine movement. Most of the time one of the motor mounts breaks so you see one side of the motor raise higher than the other. You can try googling 3.0t motor mount check procedure to see it demonstrated and what it looks like.

@@cmidas3396 thanks for the reply. My car vibrates from the inside on idle quite a bit so I’m guessing it’s the motor mounts that need replacing. It’s a 2012 Audi a7 with 124,000 miles. Do you think it’s a good idea to pay and replace them or is the mileage to high to keep investing on this car? Thanks again.

@tydollasign5800 Hard to say if it's worth investing in it for you. The motor & trans are very reliable as long as you keep up with maintenance.so there's that to consider.

@@cmidas3396 thanks for the input man I really appreciate it.

@tydollasign5800 No problem 👍🏾

They told me it doesn't take much. I can't remember exactly how much I used but I think I used a q-tip to pack some into the bearing rollers and put some all around the rotor nose as well as a good amount on the tip of the rotor bearing nose so it packs in when pushed into the needle bearings.

@ Thank u!! Huge help. I txted them asking the same and they told me the same thing as you and I was confused on hm I should use. This gives me a better idea. I appreciate you man!

@7hcfV No problem 👍🏾

Wow, I'll have to look into one.

@@cmidas3396 It seems daunting to start but it really aint that bad. Recently bought a 3d scanner for like 200 bucks so i now plan to scan my dashboard and make myself a custom one

@LAKXx Wow didn't think they could make something that big

@@cmidas3396 aye the plan is to print it in sections and use a bumper repair tool to plastic weld it together while filler or sanding removes any seams. If you semi handy with computers id say go for it, you will start looking at projects differently since no longer you have to worry about plastic brackets or fitments or whatever etc. If you actually do decide to go for it based on a youtube comment, then feel free to ask away

@LAKXxOh I see

Just reverse osmosis water and Vpracing coolant additive mixed to the ratio per the system capacity. I forget exactly how much of the additive I use but it tells you how much on the bottle per your system capacity.

@@cmidas3396 hey brotha those nubers youre showing on the p3 gauge are youre iats correct ? what menu its the iats under on the p3 gauge ?

More like perfect time !

No it's not too late. That's around the time I started modding mine. Just stay on top of maintenance.

Thank you guys so much.. make me feel more comfortable with my purchase 🙌🏼

@@blazer3606 Your gonna love it 👍🏾

No, sorry I don't. Just what I did in the video.

Hard to say because I have no experience with the tdi engines. I would lean towards something newer honestly for something to be used as a daily. That being said I'd say research common issues /problems with one of the newer models you've mentioned.

Dude did you listen to the video or watch it on mute, Lol. Minute 7.10 your welcome now turn up the volume, Lol.

I had the lines made for me by my friend at Neuspeed.

Thanks 👍🏾

Depends how much comes out and how much you get back in before it rises to the fill level. Vcds is used to monitor the fluid temperature in this case. Vcds is primarily used to connect to the ecu & tcu as well as other modules & sensors during repairs / diagnostics.

@@cmidas3396 OK thank you for that, do I need to use the CDS or can I use the temperature reading gun would that be OK?

@ohitslit I'm not sure if a temperature gun will give an accurate reading vs the reading from vcds.