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Koof_A_Loof
Добавлен 12 дек 2013
Small time channel, with only a crashed drone video, and a how to repair your Ford cruise control video. Also the future home of my game streams!
New drone vs. New drone pilot...
Video drone is a 3DR Solo, with a GoPro Hero4 Black payload. Its filming a Bugs MJX 3.... being operated by a pilot with maybe 30 seconds of prior flight time!
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Видео
CVN - Cruise control switch test and clean
Просмотров 117 тыс.10 лет назад
JetSledOnWheels describes how to test, disassemble and clean the cruise control switches. Edit: 9/2018 - I'm ecstatic that this video has helped so many of you get your cruise control repaired! I've been asked about various different Ford cars AND trucks of the same vintage, and I can safely say that this method is nearly universal among the entire ford lineup for 2004 and older, regarding the ...
I am kind of confused on the meter connections, can you please clarify the connections again?
if you disconected the volt/ohm meter howdid you get any readings for ohm's?
The meter stays connected to the harness, but the harness gets disconnected from the cruise module.
After you check voltage on your switch, do you keep the multimeter plugged in in the saying pens to check the others switches
what do you connect the meter to for the ohms test
From what I can find on my 2000 F-250 the cruise is run through the pcm since it is a diesel. I still suspect it is in the switches and I am going to at least clean them and see if this fixes my problem. It started out fine then went to intermittent for a few days and now not working at all. I hope this helps.
Thank you! Helped our e450 rv
I'm glad it got you back in business! Especially in an RV, that's a hell of a long drive typically to not have any cruise!
OVER 16 MINS IS NOT SHORT
Apologies for rustling jimmies 😂
Where can I get the cable pinout for those cruise pushbutton controls?
Lol I broke those lil plastic shits, good video tho
Sometimes, those lil plastic shits need a good breaking. If you've got a pick n pull style boneyard near you, odds are good you can get some intact plastic shits for dirt cheap or nothing.
About to go from Rolla Missouri to Gulf shores Alabama you just made our long trip a whole lot better! Cruise control has been out for about 6 months I use the CRC method on the buttons and massage the buttons and everything works awesome now, thank you thank you thank you
Glad it helped! Safe travels!
Giggity.
I know this is an old video but and maybe i should know but I don't. In the video you show how to check under the hood for voltage and where the leads go but where do the leads go when testing the buttons?
So the lead positions under the hood are where you're checking the button functions. Those are the wires coming from the steering wheel controls. The on button is tested while the connector is still plugged in, and the rest are tested while that connector is unplugged. The test lead position doesn't change for testing any of the buttons. Hope this helps!
I love commenting on videos dealing with reparing my truck: a f 250 Lariat 7.5 460 1990: only thirty years old now. EFI and I am going to lift my lid on the wheel and spray those puppies. I be that is my problem, but if not then I might check this and that and more or less . Muchas gracias amigo mio. I think I will run out in the night and check to see if my brake lights light up the town now. Good night and thanks a bunch. Keep up the great work amigo. ciao joe kokomo
OL means open loop
Replaced cruise control switch on my 2006 Ford f150 it worked 1 day then quit working again how can I fix this problem
The first suggestion would be to go through the wiring with a fine-toothed comb. Is it possible something may have come unplugged? perhaps a slightly corroded connector is to blame? the CRC contact cleaner I mention in the video works is actually specifically formulated for connectors and such. So the method I discuss in the video does still functionally apply to the 06 F150... with a couple huge differences, number one, the wheel button design is entirely different from the Crown Vic. and number 2, the pinout on the Cruise module is completely different as well. For testing, with the key off, you'll be pulling the middle connector on the PCM mounted to the firewall on the passenger side under the hood. on that connector, you'll be testing between pins 56 and 57. 56 should be a light blue/black stripe wire, and 57 should be a Dark Green/ Orange stripe wire. All tests are done in ohms with the connector removed from the PCM. Pressing off should give you a reading of fewer than 5 ohms, Coast 300 +/- 25, Set/Accel 600 +/- 50, Resume, 1100 +/- 75, On 2100 +/- 150. No key pressed should have a reading of about 4250 +/- 250. If all that tests fine, you can rule out everything from your steering wheel to the PCM, and then the problem lies beyond the PCM.
hey great video! I have a 96 lincoln town car and not getting the volts with the on button. After looking up recalls seems they changed the pressure switch and wired in 2 inline fuses checked the fusses one was blown. It had a lot of white corrosion which I think cause a lot of amps to be drawn through the white stuff. Cleaned the fuse holder with crc, changed fuse and now i got my cruise back working. Did a preventive action and cleaned all the button switches too. thank you !!!
Happy to hear another panther is back in working order on the road!
I have a 2006 Grand Marquis. Apparently 2005-2007 MGM and CV are the same as each other, but different from earlier years. They do not have the pushbutton switch, rather they have a squishy rubber membrane that mashes down onto the circuit board (like your TV remote if you've ever seen the inside of that.) They can still be cleaned exactly as described here, by popping the hard button tops off and cleaning with contact cleaner. Just make sure you're getting it between the squishy rubber part and the circuit board and then work the contacts thoroughly. Test before popping the button tops back in, and repeat as necessary.
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you 1000 time, my 2001 grand mraruis cruise control start to work again since 3 years
Wonderful! Glad to hear it helped out!
You are my new hero! Thank you for making this informative video! It works now! ! !
Happy to hear it helped you out, and helped keep another panther on the road. Mine sadly went to the junk yard in the sky this past winter.
How are you Doing my brother, what would be my Case in your mind, I have a 2002 Ford Explore , any time I turn on the cruise control it doesn’t engage 😞 but it shows on in there could you give me any information?
My best guess would be that your cruise control cable has disengaged somehow from the throttle body. It was actually pretty common on a few ford models of the era to have that happen. Another possibility is that the cable has snapped.
Spicy Koof Nuggets! Appreciate your attention, Will check that for sure thanks brother
I get close to zero ohms when holding the off button, but the buttons on the right aren't giving any readings (coast, set/accel, resume). I cleaned the contacts off pretty good. Ideas?
2002 Dodge Caravan. My problem is, of course, different. When it works it works fine but it will shut off after a short time. Pushing the on/off doesn't turn it on. However if I turn off the ignition I can turn it on and it works fine for a short time again. The only exception is long trips after the engine and engine compartment has gotten very warm. It will usually stay on for the whole trip. I haven't found the cruise module. Is it part of the vehicle computer module?
You get different ohm reading on all the switches (excluding the on / off) How do you determine what the ohms should be for each? And is the key on or off when doing these tests? Thanks a bunch for this vid
Hi Joe! That is correct, the cruise control module is signaled with only two wires from the steering wheel. That said, the On button is measured in volts DC, with the connector plugged into the cruise module and with the key in the on position. The on button should read battery voltage when pressed, and it'll give you a goofy reading when no buttons are pressed. The Off, resume, set/accel, and coast buttons are tested with the connector disconnected from the cruise module, and with the key on. All values do NOT have to be exact, the reading may vary from the expected resistance by plus or minus 50 ohms or so. Off button should read 0 Ohms, Resume should read 2200 Ohms, Set/Accel should read 680 ohms, and Coast should read 120 ohms. As for how the determination is made for what the readings should be, they are numbers direct from the Ford Service Manual for the Crown victoria. This particular cruise module is common among MANY other ford models however, and as such the same diagnostic I show in this video may apply. Good luck, and don't hesitate to comment back if you have any further questions!
@@koof_a_loof Great explanation.... I fully understand getting ready to try a few different tests on my recent purchase of a 04' Ford F-350's cruise control not working and yours will be one of the three different tests..... Thanks a bunch for the help :)
@@notwrkn2mch Pulled up the SM for 04 F350 and this one actually gives a specific ohm range for each switch. The test procedure is identical to my video here, so that's a plus! F-350 - Off "less than 5 ohms" - Resume "between 2,090 and 2,310 ohms" - Set/Accel "Between 612 and 748 Ohms" - Coast "Between 114 and 126 ohms" Good Luck!
@@koof_a_loof You got no idea how appreciative i am that you looked this up for me. I just had to subscribe and hope to talk to you again.... Thank you very much
@@notwrkn2mch no sweat! I just hope it helps out :)
Dang! That stinks. The dog didn't know where to look. lol.
Hola buenas tardes, Yo tengo un problema con mi módulo de control de velocidad. El switch del pedal para el freno y el switch en el volante funcionan bien. El fusible está bien. En el tablero el indicar de encendido (ON) funciona y enciende. El problema es que el módulo de control de velocidad no logra mantener la velocidad, sino que se va desacelerando hasta llegar a los 48 km/h y se autodesactiva. Como dato adicional, el módulo de control de velocidad fue sustituido por uno de medio uso pues el original se averió por corto circuito.
¡Hola! ¡Gracias por tu comentario! Por favor, perdóname, ya que no hablo español con fluidez. Confío en la precisión de Google translate. Si lo entiendo correctamente, ¿está diciendo que el módulo de control de crucero simplemente no funciona a pesar del reemplazo? Si ese es el caso, asumiría 1 de 3 opciones. La primera opción sería que el módulo de reemplazo es defectuoso, y recomendaría tratar de reemplazarlo nuevamente. La segunda opción depende de la edad de su corona victoria. Si es anterior a 2005, que fue el año en que los controles del acelerador se cambiaron a electrónicos, es posible que haya un defecto en el cable del módulo o que el cable se haya salido del cuerpo del acelerador. y para la opción final, es posible que el conector eléctrico para el módulo de control de crucero esté corroído. desconectar el conector y limpiar los contactos con un limpiador de contacto eléctrico y un cepillo de dientes debería corregir esto. No dudes en enviarnos un mensaje para que te aclaremos, y me disculpo nuevamente por tener que usar el traductor de Google. cuídate y buenas tardes
Spicy Koof Nuggets! Hola Amigo buenas tardes. En verdad agradezco mucho que te tomes el tiempo de responder a mi problema. Y no te preocupes por el idioma. Con ayuda del traductor podemos comunicarnos. El día de ayer subí un video en donde muestro cómo funciona mi módulo control velocidad. ruclips.net/video/oItqFnndaoc/видео.html Espero pueda ser de utilidad.
Spicy Koof Nuggets! Buenas tardes, espero que hayas podido leer mi comentario anterior. Saludos
Lo hice, por alguna razón, mi respuesta no se publicó sin embargo. Vi tu video, y todo lo que puedo decir es que parece que el crucero no se está activando, a pesar de que la luz dice que sí. Más allá de eso, no estoy familiarizado con el modelo de mariner. Miré brevemente algunos diagramas eléctricos y diagramas de partes para él. Mi mejor opción sería asegurarme de que el cable esté correctamente conectado al cuerpo del acelerador y confirmar que esté funcionando. Yo personalmente intentaría desconectar el cable del servo de velocidad y pegarlo fuera de la capucha, donde podría verlo mientras conduzco. Active el crucero una vez que la velocidad alcance los 45-50 km / hy observe si el cable se mueve. Si se mueve, puede confirmar que el módulo es funcional. si no hay movimiento, es probable que el módulo de reemplazo también sea defectuoso. ¡Espero que esto ayude! Ten una buena tarde
Spicy Koof Nuggets! Spicy Koof Nuggets! De acuerdo, voy a seguir el ejemplo que me recomiendas. Desconectar el cable y ver si está funcionando.
Thanks! you saved my 12 hour trip by helping me fix the cruise control on my 99 Grand Marquis. I only had 15mins before I had to leave, so I rushed out and bought a can of the CRC and followed your process for cleaning. Worked perfect! thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks for post, 2003 grand marquis. Cruise was not working at all, pulled cruise control button covers off , used CRC contact cleaner. All I had around , cleaned them up, WORKS GREAT!!!!!, thanks
Jeff Morrissey glad to hear you're back in business!
I put a throttle position sensor on my 2007 dodge durango and my cruise control quit working it worked before any ideas
James Atkins my guesses would be bad replacement sensor, Poor connection to the sensor, or the classic turn it off and back on again response (pull the battery, and pop it back in) Any other drivability issues?
Where did u get the spot light at because I want to put one on my car
came with the car. Word to the wise though, unless you absolutely need a spotlight for trail riding or other utility uses don't drill holes in your car to mount one. It's a pain in the ass to install these where there aren't already cutouts, and wherever you cut is always the first place to rust. Anyways. manufacturer of the spot is Unity, website i believe is Unity usa dot com. I'm sure they can be found used on ebay too... Again, unless you absolutely need to have one, forget it.
What if you dont get a 7 volts reading in the first place? By connecting the 5 and 6 pins with multimeter
connector plugged in, probing 5 and 6 and pressing the ON button? Id first start by making sure the probes are making contact with the connectors, if so and you aren't getting a reading, clean the on switch. If still nothing odds are real good you've got a damaged clock spring, either from free spinning the steering wheel with the linkage disconnected (during a repair to steering components) or you've had an airbag deployment.
You're an idiot
Julian ass-ange cool, thanks!
I located my problem using your method, a pesky set accel switch not working. Bought some crc spray and fixed it. Thanks for the video!
Glad to hear it helped you out!
This video was so helpful. Mine was not working and having this video just show me how to remove the switches helped. Mine was not turning on at all and by taking off the switch I discovered that one of the little buttons that pushes in the switch was missing. It is working great now. Thank you.
Suzy Differ glad to hear it helped!
I have a 2002 Ford F-150, Lariat, 5.4 triton engine, flex fuel and my cruise control does not work. I have no warning lights on my dash and I haven't found any bad fuses. My backup lights and all other lights work ok. My problem is this: when I push on my cruise control "off" button; my horn sounds. I did replace the switch relay on my master cylinder but, didn't help. Please help if possible.
William P Branham the diagram for your cruise circuit unsurprisingly looks identical to this, so the test should be identical in your case. is it possible your truck has had an airbag deployment? the first thing I'm thinking when I'm hearing cruise buttons are activating the horn is a fried clockspring. is your airbag light on at all? edit: is there any change in what happens if you tilt your wheel?
Solved problem! Cleaned contacts and everything works. I disconnected the battery, removed air bag fuse and waited 1 hr. I then removed the off and on button from steering wheel, sprayed electronic cleaner on contacts and by just pushing buttons several times the contacts came clean. Then after cleaning, I reinstalled the off and on button, reinstalled the fuse and connected the battery. That solved my problem. I saw another video on line and they suggested this before replacing parts. Thanks to all those who has taken time to post their solutions on line! Thank you again. Your video saved me a lot of time! Thanks again!! Read more
William P Branham does it still work? I think I might have to do this on mine since brake sensor and fuse have been replaced still don't work
Baxter DeBerry Hola buenas tardes, Yo tengo un problema con mi módulo de control de velocidad. El switch del pedal para el freno y el switch en el volante funcionan bien. El fusible está bien. En el tablero el indicar de encendido (ON) funciona y enciende. El problema es que el módulo de control de velocidad no logra mantener la velocidad, sino que se va desacelerando hasta llegar a los 48 km/h y se autodesactiva. Como dato adicional, el módulo de control de velocidad fue sustituido por uno de medio uso pues el original se averió por corto circuito.
at around 3:00 , what do you mean by "disconnecting" ...what to disconnect? didnt get it...
Anique Rizwan the connector going into the cruise module. the connector I stuck the probes into.
kufnugs ok ok.... thanks!
Anique Rizwan so if you disconnect the connector from the module, from where where you getting those ohm meter readings when you press the button
Pins 5 and 6 of the connector are the signal wires from the buttons. Pin 6 is ground, and pin 5 is signal. the buttons send the signal to the control module through pin 5. When the connector is plugged in, you're able to get an accurate VoltsDC reading from the ON button. When unplugged, you'll get an accurate OHM reading from the remaining buttons. The other buttons "short" the connection between pin 5 and 6 at varying resistance. The cruise module is programmed to understand the varying resistance its sent, and act accordingly.
Anique Rizwan thanks for the detailed reply bro.
I used the tuner/switch cleaner as shown on the video. I sprayed it and then massaged the button in different directions. I repeated this 5 or six times. The cruise control now works fine. Thanks for the video.
glad it helped!
I just desoldered and replaced the switches on mine. Panasonic EVQ-PAG04M or EVQ-PAE04M or EVQ-PAC04M can be used. The difference is the operating force--260gm, 160gm, or 100gm respectively. I used the EVQ-PAE04M but I think the originals are more like the EVQ-PAG04M in terms of operating force. Dimensionally, they are all identical and an exact replacement for the originals. They cost 27 cents each. Desoldering them was ridiculously easy. They can be purchased from either Mouser or Digi-Key or whomever else stocks Panasonic switches. I got mine from Digi-Key. Your switches look more like the EVQ-PAG07K / EVQ-PAE07K / EVQ-PAC07K which has a button that is about 3mm taller but is otherwise identical--there appears to be more than one version of these switch assemblies. The circuit board on your switch assembly is different from the one I have, but the outside appearance is the same. Best thing to do is measure the switch and compare to the data sheet. These are Panasonic EVQPA series switches.
+Brian Leeper Great info to have! Thank you Brian!
Brian Leeper said