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Sadly the machine is no longer with me 😢

I used this one. Grouphead gasket compatible with 58MM Breville dual boiler Machines with o-rings，Oracle BES900, 920, 980, 990, Anti-Leak Water a.co/d/2Ucsxfj

@@DeLucaEspressoRepairThank you so much!

The problem is in finding the elongated o-ring. I had to take a round one and conform it to fit long enough to clamp the two halves together. I used some silicone sealant to secure it temporarily. I think I read somewhere where someone hand cut a gasket to replace this elongated o-ring.

@@jeffb.7951 oh that oval..I end up giving up to be honest, I tried the silicone trick and it worked for a few days. It started leaking again

@@DeLucaEspressoRepair I think mine is holding but perhaps that's where the leak is. Anyway, can you give me the order of assembly for the three position switch so I can eliminate that as a potential leak source before I tear apart the heater block to inspect the elongated gasket.

For Jura machines its usually the valve underneath the brew unit. This little valve takes care of shooting water through the brew unit to make coffee, if it fails it will leak. You have to Inspect the whole brew unit too since sometimes it's a combination of the valve ( gaskets leaking) and the brew unit piston ( gasket leaking too). Thats only if the leaks are happening inside the tray. To the other side its more complicated. Hope this helps 😊

🎉🎉🎉🎉

It was a pleasure working with your machine. Thank you for choosing De Luca Espresso Repair. Reviving espresso, One machine at a time! ☕🔧

It seems that the machine is almost identical to the Anima so probably yes.

Sadly I haven't seen one that can do it. Even Jura grinders can get completely clogged with dark roast

The light colored beans are medium roast. The other darker bean is also medium roast but it's closer to dark roast than medium.

They have a small cover that can be removed with a small flat head 🪛 or a pick. Then you have a screw that holds the actual knob, remove that and the knob should come out. The knobs can be modified and you can put anything there, we had a customer put a water faucet knob on it and I have put some fancy ones from a commercial machine to a few machines.

The water pump and the 3 way valve were replaced. The machine needed those to be able to brew again 😊

Thank you!! 😊

The ones I use are from Urnex. Here is a link for Amazon Urnex Cafiza Professional Espresso Machine Cleaning Tablets, 100 Count a.co/d/04sxmmYP

It's called the jura service repair tool to let. Available on Amazon for like $10

@@DeLucaEspressoRepair ​ @DeLucaEspressoRepair thanks. i used needle-nosed pliers. i'm not even sure it needed to be removed to open the side panels. it helps to pull the side panels down when removing them from the area around this screw.

I'm glad this video has help ☺️. I wish you many amazing coffee's ☕🔧

You usually know it is the valve because it either doesn't work ( no water coming to the steamer wand or carafe) or it leaks ( water coming out of it while idle or brewing) you still need to test it out. In general when the valve is having troubles of any kind it's best to replace it and clean around the hoses as well. Hope this helps 😊

Thank you so much 🙏

Glad to hear!

There are a couple of different pressurestats out there, but if you're referring to the Pasquini Livia 90 one, it's essentially a switch. The white part on the pressurestat where the cables connect is just a switch activated by the pressure plate underneath. The hole where the copper pipe connects has a plate that rises with a spring. As the pressure increases, the plate rises and eventually reaches the switch, which then deactivates the power to the heating element. You can control this plate with the small adjustment screw on the top of the pressurestat. Here's how to diagnose it: If the switch isn't working, it needs to be replaced. If the hole where the copper pipe connects is full of scale buildup, you can descale it, but you'll need a compressor to push air through it until it activates the switch. In general, if the pressurestat is bad, we recommend replacing it since it's a relatively cheap part that plays a crucial role in maintaining your machine's steam pressure. Repairing a defective pressurestat isn't advisable because it can lead to overheating issues, malfunctions, and other problems. If you suspect the pressurestat is faulty, it's best to replace it to prevent potential damage to your heating element, wiring, or other components. Hope this helps! 🙂

When the machine starts pulling those initial shots, it revs up a bit louder than usual, but fear not! It quickly settles down, humming along with less noise. Or maybe you just get used to the espresso symphony! 😜☕

Hi there, there are many things that can be happening on your machine, we end up replacing a lot of components and gaskets on this one and there was a lot of cleaning. To give you a more accurate response I would need a bit more info. Would you be able to send us a video on our Instagram or Facebook?

These machines have a magnet sensor on the gear of the grinder and if that magnetic sensor of the motor is bad then you will get the bean error. I usually replace both the motor and the sensor of the machine if I get persistent missing beans error. Hope this helps 😃

⁠@@DeLucaEspressoRepair thanks for the answer. I did replace the sensor already. I have the same problem. I think the machine monitors the motor’s amperage. If it detect low amperage it means that there is not beans. I’ll replace the motor and I’ll tell you the results. Update. I replaced the motor. If I set the strongest low ( 1!coffe beam) it works. But I set the strongest one (3 and more coffe beams ) it sows the same problem. I can only make it works if during the grinding I open and close the beans lid couple of times. So far I replaced the motor, sensor and the two ceramic discs.

You can pop out those plastic discs by pressing hard on the side of them. Cleaning was quite challenging; it took me several days. It involved a series of descaling baths and then polishing the rest of the boiler. Additionally, I had to replace the heat exchanger and make a few other improvements. Unfortunately, the machine also needs a new board after I replaced all the wiring and checked it out; the board gave out. I'm currently waiting for the part. You can see some of the progress on our Instagram, although I didn't document the many descaling and cleaning baths.

@@DeLucaEspressoRepair Thanks for the feedback. Sorry to hear the board is also faulty. Where are you sourcing a replacement. It seems like the transformer on the board is the week point. I'll be replacing that and a couple capacitors first to see if that hopefully fixes it

@@michielbesier4256 I got it from Pasquini. You'll have to email them though. I tried fixing the board but it needed a lot of work so it was safer to replace than to fix. The R.L.3 Sonde is pretty easy to repair so fingers crossed

Feel free to watch more videos if you'd like to see more content!

Hey there! Thanks for reaching out. To better understand the problem and provide you with the best solution, would you mind sending us a quick video of the leaking? You can send it to us via direct message on Instagram or our face book facebook.com/DeLucaEspresso

That sounds like two possible problems. Either the water pump is not pushing water through the grouphead or the solenoid valve is not opening. If the solenoid valve is not opening it could be a control box issue or the valve itself. Send me a video of the machine on our Facebook page so I could help you better 😊

This is a great place to get the parts diagram and the part that you need. www.wholelattelove.com/products/gaggia-anima-prestige-part-diagram-e74221

Thank you for replying. I actually followed your video and cleaned a bunch of parts. Now it works. I just got this machine used and a bit unimpressed by the espresso. Maybe need to fine tune some things. Also is it normal for a bit of water to end up in the bottom pull out tray ?

Hey there! Happy the video was useful. The problem with your Saeco Picobaristo might actually be a clog in the system. If that stubborn plastic clip is giving you a hard time, check behind it for any hidden screws. You might need to remove the frame for a better look. Hope this info comes in handy, and good luck fixing it! By the way, stay tuned for a future video where I'll cover servicing the spouts and some other parts I didn't get into this time around

This is Part 1 of the series. Here I take it apart and do a diagnosis of the machine and explain some of the components of the machine. ruclips.net/video/f5_uHCavAdQ/видео.htmlsi=AeNlVv5Adl-aXLjL

I personally opt for citric acid in my descaling routine. I use one tablespoon diluted into a full water tank with the machine at full pressure. Begin by running hot water until the machine starts refilling to let citric acid reach the boiler. Then, pull at least 6oz of water through the grouphead using the brew button. Power off the machine for 5 minutes, then pressurize it again. Once up to pressure, run hot water, repeating the cycle on both the heat exchanger and the boiler. Continue until the water tank is empty, rinse, and refill with fresh water. Continue rising the machine with fresh water until you no longer smell or taste the citric acid of the machine. Give the machine breaks to cool down as well and don't rush the process. ( Warning ⚠️ descalling the machine like this can destroy the heating element or clog major components of the machine if there is a lot of scale built up inside the machine, if it's heavily scaled, is best to take apart and clean the components separately with ultrasound or citric acid )

The top of the machine is a bit tricky, you first need to remove the front display cover. ( The piece of plastic that covers the side of the machine wh the the buttons are, is like a u shape) There's two tabs on the side that get pushed and then you slide the whole " glassy " cover back. If you remove the cover you will expose the screws that hold the entire top cover of the machine. That's as far as I can remember. I no longer have the machine with me. If you would like to send me a video or picture you can do so on our Instagram or Facebook page. Hope this helps

Thank you very much I will try out .

Thank you so much for bringing that to my attention! At 1:08:40, I realized there was a mistake and corrected it, resulting in the jump cut you noticed. Upon further inspection, I found that the issue wasn't with the spring of the grinder, but rather the gasket not being well-seated on the grinder chute. I appreciate your understanding and patience as I work to improve the video. If you have any more insights or feedback, feel free to share. Thanks again!

@@DeLucaEspressoRepair Fantastic! Good job, very thorough. Maybe you can answer, I recently did a complete cleaning of the grinder. At some point I pulled off a square silicone piece, dark gray or black, and it has an arrow on it indicating which way to slide it on the component it protects. I've watched your video twice but I can't find this piece anywhere in it. Do you know what piece I am talking about? I couldn't figure out where to put it back on. Thanks!

@louisik1, it sounds like the silicone piece that rests under the grinder chute. It's a grey silicone piece placed at the base of the grinder chute (in the little hole on the frame where the grinder chute rests and where the coffee grounds drop into the brew unit). Then, on top of it, there's the one you mentioned, which is black (the one that fell off in the video). I hope this helps 😊

@@DeLucaEspressoRepair thanks much! Do you think it would cause any problems if I just leave it out for now and replace it next time I'm in there?

@@louisik1 The missing silicone piece at the bottom might cause a bit more vibration and noise. I'm uncertain if it directly affects the coffee flow into the brew unit, but the noise level might increase due to the tiny gap. While it could impact performance, I can't guarantee it 100%.

It seems like the issue might be with the brew valve in your machine. When gaskets wear out, water can leak and end up in the tray instead of the spouts. To identify the exact source, try testing the machine with the door open. If the water leaks from behind the brew unit, it's likely the brew valve. On the other hand, if the leakage is at the front of the brew unit, it could be the o-ring on the brew unit causing the problem