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I’m glad you enjoyed the video! It’s a 3/8” round over bit.

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Thanks for getting back so fast!

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Hey there, Just wanted to reach out and say I followed your guide, and my boards came out incredible. The wood rasps you recommended saved me so much time and made sanding a lot easier. I've never had a sanding procedure this complex before and was a bit skeptical, but holy cow was it worth it. I'm still blow away by how buttery smooth it turned out. I'm not even trying to sell them, I'm going to give all four of them to my best friend's mother (one is a huge board made with Red Grandis, Walnut, Soft Maple, and White Oak). (btw I just now noticed your video had the specific router bit you used lol. Thanks for still replying!)

It is food safe by European standards, which are generally much more stringent than the US. The FDA has not put their stamp of approval on it for whatever reason, but I have used this for years now and have had great safe results. I would say do your own looking into it and use your best judgement. I don’t want to give bad advice.

I’ve switched to that since making this video, I agree! It works very well.

Thank you! Hope it helped 👍

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Oh wait. You said wrong answers only, sorry

Thanks bud! I appreciate it and I’m glad you liked the video. Cheers 🍻

I try to start at least a 1/2” thicker than what you want it to be finished. These were 1.5” thick and finish were about 1.25”. Depends on how much milling needs to be done as well. These were already planed and sanded to 120 after they came out of the kiln so they didn’t need much. If you are starting from scratch on rough sawn material I’d say 3/4” thicker than what you want it to be finished.

I’m glad it was helpful, Thank you for watching!

In this scenario I’m going against it to level the glue up, flat first. I ran back over the entire piece with the grain after to smooth it all out.

Thank you for watching, I really hoped it helps!!

Thank you for watching and I’m very glad it helped!! Good luck with the project, I hope it turns out great!

Thank you!! It was a love hate relationship until it was finished 😂

That’s the truth! Thanks, I’m glad you liked the video 👍🏻🍻!

My rule of thumb is it needs to be down to a min of 10-11% moisture and acclimated to your shop or the environment it will be in. You can buy moisture readers (there are a few different types) to find out where the material is at. If you have the ability to have it kiln dried that will be the fastest. If not, you will have to sticker it and let it air dry. That generally takes a year or two depending on thickness, air movement, humidity etc. I hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions and thanks for watching the video!

Generally what I’ve found is that it’s usually one of two things. Either you a turning to tight to fast or you have the wrong blade. There are two types of blades one where the teeth cut on the up stroke or one where the teeth cut on the down stroke. You want the teeth that cut on the up stroke. I’ve had this happen to me before too and I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out. Hope this helps!

Yes, it was the 1/4” round over. Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 🍻.

Thank you!! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 🍻

Yes, it’s just clear silicone. You can also use a hot glue gun if you are in a bind for time. Yes, scrape everything off you can then sand. If you have the time, a couple quick coats of poly where you are going to put the silicone/hot glue will save a bunch of time when you’re ready to sand/remove. Cheers 🍻

Thank you! Hope it helped or you at least enjoyed it 👍🏻🍻

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012yeah man, I did, keep up the good work, I just used rubio for the first time, I had dust come out too but I don't think it matters because the finish isn't like many others, very forgiving, I don't think it's worth the money, it is good but there are other products that does the same and is a lot cheaper, Osmo 2k for one, Natura one coat is a good one too, i think. but great job !

It started off 1 3/4”. Finishes just under that. It was already dried, planned and sanded to 120 when I started.

Thanks for responding! I’m worried about cutting that thickness especially black walnut

Don’t be. Properly dried walnut is a dream to work with. Anything from 1.5” - 2” will be just fine. Give it a few days to acclimate to your shop before starting and you’ll be good to go if it’s been kiln dried.

Thank you very much! I’m glad they helped ya!

I truly appreciate that! I'm glad it was able to help you out with it. I learned the hard way with this stuff and I wanted to make sure no one else had to if I could help it.

Thank you, I appreciate it! I'm glad it helped you out.

Im glad it helped ya!

I have always had great luck with Wisebond Deep Pour Epoxy for the bigger knots and cracks. Depending on the size, humidity and temp it generally takes 2-3 days to harden up enough to de mold/move if needed. Ideally 7 days before you start milling or sanding it. I have in some cases used the regular epoxy to fill in super small cracks and knots but I don’t recommend it as it can not cure properly. Wide bond also makes a quick cure epoxy that I think you can pour up to an inch but it’s very temperamental and cures insanely fast so it’s very hard to work with. You really have to be on the ball when using it but I’ve had good luck with it as well. Hope it helps!

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 awesome thank you. Deep pour it is for those bigger sections. One last question; is there a minimum amount needed to mix deep pour ? or can I just mix any amount (even if very little) as long as the mix ratio is correct?

@@chillpillworkshop I would not mix any less than 6 oz. The reason being the smaller the amount you mix, the easier it is to get the ratios wrong. If your off just even a little bit the epoxy will not cure. So I always mix 6 oz just to be safe. I have mixed smaller amounts but I used a food scale and mixed it by weight. You will have to get those weights from Wisebond because the 2 parts don’t weigh the same per ounce. So just mixing 2:1 by weight will cause problems. Does that all make sense?

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 perfect sense. Thank you so much. Great video

Thank you sir, I appreciate that! I use CA glue religiously to prep those exact things before pours. I’ve never had an issue with it. In fact I would use it on any small crack, bug hole, or other imperfection to help eliminate small voids. That’s where you will fight air bubbles and it’s a tough battle to win. As far as the heat gun and scraper to remove excess I guess I’m not sure I’ve ever heard of or seen that process? Once this stuff starts to cure it’s pretty much game over as far as removing excess. I babysit the pours for a few hours afterwards and wipe drips from edges and add more where needed but have never needed to remove excess epoxy. So I won’t be much help there. I do use a propane torch to pop air bubbles after I pour and spread the epoxy, but that’s all I use it for. Somethings to keep in mind: Temp/Humidity control are crucial for correct curing. Min 72 hours of controlled environment. Make sure you do a seal coat before any pour on raw wood. My rule of thumb for seal coats is 1oz per square foot. It’s just enough to seal things up before you start doing pours. It eliminates air bubbles, and will also catch any small voids you may have missed with the CA glue. For top coating: I use 1.5-2oz per square foot for each pour. Then I bump it up to 3oz per square foot on my final flood coat. These are just my preferences and doesn’t make them gospel, but I’ve had very good luck with these amounts. Feel free to reach out anytime if you get in a bind or have questions!

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Awesome, thanks so much for all the info, and the quick reply. I have have no doubt that watching your videos is going to improve my success on this maiden voyage.😊

@@mburke1211 anytime man! Good luck and don’t panic lol.

Sorry for one more message, but here’s a link to the process I was mentioning about heat gun/scraping: ruclips.net/user/shortsPTL8CMRwJEU?feature=share. Just trying to save sanding time!

@@mburke1211 ok this makes more sense now that I see it. I thought you meant trying to do this on the final top coat and it had me scratching my head lol. Yeah, I can see how this would be helpful on very tiny areas. What I have done in the past with situations like that is fill them with my colored epoxy and leave them a little under filled. Then bring up the rest of it with clear CA glue then use a chisel to remove the excess. Keep in mind also that epoxy soaks into the wood deeper than you’d think. Colored/non colored epoxy will stain raw wood with what ever color is in it. So what I will do if I’m only filling a crack in or something like that is put a couple of coats of poly on the face of the material around the area a day prior to pouring. The poly acts and a sacrificial barrier and that way the epoxy doesn’t seep down into the wood around the void. If that makes sense? If you don’t, you will have a discolored ring left behind that almost no amount of sanding will remove. Learned that one the hard way. Just be sure to sand all of the poly off as well so that what ever finish you put on it will have even coverage and virgin material to adhere to.