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You aren't wrong. That track is usually pretty rough and demands good driving skill. The solid axle was more of a handicap than anything, but made it really fun!

There probably won't be any racing for the rest of the year, but us locals have been doing regular practice sessions out there. Look for 318 RC Lounge on Facebook to see what's going on.

@@wolf16731 thank you.

I used 410.3 parts for the conversion, but used the 2.1 hubs with AE axles. However, since the SCT410 2.0 has been released, I can confirm that all of those parts are a direct fit with no mods required.

Lol, yeah and he can still wheel a car around the track pretty good.

All 4wd, trucks were a mix of Losi SCTE, Traxxas Slash, and I think a Tekno SCT410.3

I've done a few races with it and so far it's been pretty consistent, but I haven't been able to really let it stretch its legs because the track has been extremely rough the past couple races.

Proline RAM 2500 SCT

Not enough showed up, and I forgot my fuel at home.

Only mod you really have to do is Axial Yeti length trailing arms to fit a sct body, as far as I can remember.

@@wolf16731 thanks i really wanted a f100 body but wasnt sure

There was some driveline binding on that day. Don't worry, it clears jumps and has won some races. I don't know of many hobbies that aren't money pits, but thanks for the motivation.

No pun intended. Sympathy comments to a fellow racer.

It took me 5 attempts to finally make rc8t3.2e stop falling apart, while trying to clear consecutive laps on similar track.

@@mayhemrcworx621 I have plans to make the truck even better. The center driveline and front suspension is a major issue. The center gearbox is a 3 gear gearbox with steel gears. If I put a 4300kv motor in the truck overheats from the weight, so I have to run a 3500kv to make up for it and takes away my top end for jumps. Also, the front end geometry is largely unadjustable for things like castor, camber, and other things. I have some craziness in mind to come.

@@wolf16731 😈

Punch the throttle before you hit the ramp don’t have it on full going into it it helps a lot the fly flat

Its all in the links. Find a way to raise the rear upper links at the axle or lower them at the chassis mount. That will tilt the upper link to lower arm angle towards anti squat which will help prevent the truck from bottoming out your shocks on launch as the stock geometry has a lot of pro squat built in.

I'm running 7/7/5 fcr for diff oil, no locker

@@wolf16731 awesome. Thank you that will help me get mine dialed in a little bit. It’s fun to run now, but a little more stability on tight corners would be great.

Glad you enjoyed the video. I would not recommend the Baja Rey to get started in racing. It was more of a project born from a joke that surpassed all expectation. You can always get started with a Traxxas Slash 4x4 as parts support is literally everywhere, but I always recommend either the Losi SCTE 3.0 or the Tekno SCT410.3 trucks. Both are using designs inspired by 1/8 buggies, are stupid strong and reliable, and perform exceptionally well everywhere without needing to be upgraded.

@@wolf16731 thanks!

Yeah, this is just superior skills on display here. That guy could take any one of those vehicles and win.

I run AKA tires on the green race rig, the King Baja is currently on Proline BFG tires.

@@wolf16731 thank you looking for firmer on baja rey.. gna chexk out the bfgoodrich

@@Gooche No worries, the KO2 is a bit tall of a tire and will rub a tiny bit. Same with the Hyrax. Proline does have another scale 2.2/3.0 tire that would do well and is a little closer to the original tire size, the KR2 and the Icon. Any of those tires would be good choices.

@@Gooche but if having a scale looking tire doesn't matter to you, you can't go wrong with Trenchers.

@@wolf16731 gonna look into the icons & kr2, cus i know there is different bfgoodrich.. thank you for explaining that the ko2 are a bit taller.. i know they also have km3 i believe

No worries, bud.. It almost sounds like you are trying to slow the rear end suspension in an attempt to get it to take a traditional jump correctly. I can 100% confirm that the correction for that is with the anti squat adjustment, not shock tuning. For me with shortened trailing arms, the answer was the 1/2" drop spacer on the chassis upper rear link mount and the top hole on the Losi 4 hole upper axle mounts. That should allow the weight transfer to be transferred to the tires instead of the springs and prevent bottoming out on power taking off from the jumps. Stock geometry is tailored heavily to pro-squat, compressing the suspension on power and giving you very little travel to absorb the takeoff brunt of a jump, causing the suspension to bottom out and donkey kick the truck into an uncontrollable front flip behavior.

I'm sure! Next time I'll make sure to prove it's a Baja Rey with the camera before and as I put it on the track.

2s through a Tekin RX8 esc paired to a Tekin Pro4HD 3500kv motor, Tekin T250 servo, and Futaba 7PXR radio.

I don't think I really have a shelf queen. Closest thing to that I have is probably my HPI Mini Trophy.

Hopefully I'll have a wider ramp built by then like I promised last time! Oh, and rebuild the Savage front end and do something about that Baja Rey tire carrier..

Thanks for the kind words. The thought had crossed my mind at one point, but for now I'm leaving nothing hidden from the camera on how I built this truck so others can replicate it themselves if they want for their trucks.

In one of my more recent videos I show how I bought the shock stand offs for the buggy that the shocks I'm using came from, and used those with some carbon fiber plates as an adaptor for the front tower.

7k/5k/3k (f/c/r)

I didn't realize the axle changed. I'm going to have to take a closer look at mine and see what's up.

@@wolf16731 Me either, well until I tried to install that 3rd member, I just picked up a Raptor Rey and while some things are a step in the right direction a few are a step backwards, its a decent amount heavier just on the body, time will tell.

@@wolf16731 I contacted 3 hobby shops including Horizen looking for a V1 replacement axle. Got two replacement axles and both are the V2, I am going to see if I can cut out and modify the V2's to accept the 3rd member. I am curious to see how you go about getting that 3rd member installed.

I will more than likely cut very carefully.. 😆

Just got my SSD parts in for the King truck and the third member I got bolted up fine with no modifications. Are you sure you picked up the correct third member? Part# SSD00177

Thanks, hopefully in the coming months when our race program comes back I will have some actual race footage.

If you plan to race, I would recommend a Losi SCTE 3.0 or Tekno SCT410.3 because the Baja was never designed to be on a track, I'm just weird. As for painting, there are some good videos out there for that. I can paint, but detail work not so much. All I can say is scuff the body with a steel wool pad, wash the body with dish soap and water, and spray VERY light coats with a lexan paint. You shouldn't even see the 1st coat, and the 2nd should look like more of a tint than anything. After 5 or so coats, you should be able to move on to the next color. Spray darkest colors first and back the paint job in white if you want it bright and to pop.

@@wolf16731 oh yeah getting the 3.0 for sure. I cannot wait. I did models before but I never did anything like this so kind of done it before but really haven't type of deal. I am SUPER thorough though so I'm totally writing all of this down haha. I will probably watch 45 videos as I am doing it. Totally thanks for the heads up. As soon as my facebook hiccup stops I am going to post all my stuff to the page, atm though I cannot

@@reepaify careful use of a heat gun really speeds up the process while painting. Usually you can minimize the down time between coats down to a minute or two.

Glad you like them!

Forgot to mention those. They are Incision upper axle links for the Baja Rey. I simply recycled them into the cage when I didn't need them for upper suspension links anymore.

Its a fun truck out of the box! A steering servo and aluminum servo arm is all it needs as a basher, the SSD front diff housing and rear axle third member is all it needs to be a reliable basher. I just went overkill for racing. Right now we are in the rainy season so race videos will be a while, but I'll get some other content on here.

If you are going Axial Yeti short, you might be able to get away with trimming stock driveshaft. Any shorter or for reliability sake, I went with SuperShafty.com and chose a custom length MIP X Duty driveshaft. It will require modding to mount up to the outputs of the center diff and the input of the rear end.