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I love that I can use a variety of lenses with my Df!

Thanks so much! I actually rented a GFX50R before I bought one to try it out. The large sensor allows me to have a great quality panoramic image. But I get it that it isn't cheap.

🤣 I see what you did there.

Thanks for the comment. The F3 with and without the md4 is amazing. Absolutely one of my favourites. I will have to borrow a EOS 1n and capture that sound as I don't own one. 🙂

It definitely has the iconic sound!

Fair point. I don't have a problem with my iphone lasting all day because it is pretty new (I bought it 10 months ago). I do make sure that I bring an external battery pack if I am going somewhere and I know I will be using my iPhone a lot for many different things (like this concert). That being said, I didn't test which would drain the battery more, the iPhone or the camera. The health of each of the batteries would definitely have an effect on that test. Thanks for the comment.

Totally fair point about the cost: it is very high. If your goal is to capture panoramic images on film then there are definitely cheaper ways than an Xpan. I would actually love to try out the Pentax 67 with a 24x65 adaptor spool. I have seen some images captured with this combo and I love that the image spills over onto the spool part of the film. I think it looks great. I will say that size of the Xpan is a lot smaller than the Pentax67. I also really value being able to frame the panorama image accurately which is more difficult with the Pentax. Maybe I can get a Pentax 67 in the future and try it out. Thanks for the comment.

@@thephotographytoolkit The Pentax 67 is only 5 pounds, so a real lightweight... Seriously, though, the framing on the 67 for the pano crop is very accurate, I made a mask out of black foam and slipped it in the viewfinder, but I also just bought some 1/64th of an inch black striping tape and I'm going to put some frame lines in the viewfinder for 24x65 and square which are two formats I like to shoot. When I do that, no need to shoot 35mm film, I'll just shoot on 120, composed for 24x65 or 1:1 and crop in the darkroom or in the computer. And then I'll have an X-pan convertible to Hasselblad square Pentaxblad 67. 🙂

@@EdwardMartinsPhotography I definitely want to try the Pentax 67 as a panoramic camera. I would need to use the black tape to help me with accurate framing like you mentioned. What lens on the Pentax would give you the closest FOV to the 30mm lens on the Xpan? I understand that the Pentax 67 is only 5 pounds while the Xpan is just over 2 pounds but the Xpan is a lot smaller to carry around which can make a difference. By the way, I am just finishing up a video which I will post this week where I compare the Xpan to the Fujifilm GFX 50r when capturing panoramic images. It was a lot of fun. I will share the link if you are interested. Thanks again for the comment.

@@thephotographytoolkit The widest rectilinear lens for the 67 system is the 45mm, and I used that for the 24x65 shots I've done and it was great. Though I'm Not sure how that compares to the Xpan as I've never shot one. If I were shooting a lot of panos for clients the GFX 100 S II would probably be the way to go. I bet the 50R did just great as well.

@@EdwardMartinsPhotography I do love a wide angle lens! I am going to keep an eye out for a reasonably priced Pentax 67. I have the GF 23mm lens and enjoy it with the GFX 50r.

Thanks for sharing.

In my experience I found that just adjusting in the app didn't do much so I don't do it. Specifically, I couldn't make it bright enough. I just adjust the photo in the camera. I hope that helps.

Thanks that helped a lot 🙌

@@zoltanbalogh8949 Happy to help!

Oh that really sucks! I haven't had problems with dust ...yet. I hope I don't in the future. Did you disassemble yours?

​@@thephotographytoolkit No I have not disassembled mine yet, but try shooting at F22 and then import into Lightroom for inspection... Find it hard to believe that I got this much dust in such a short period of time, especially when I'm not really shooting in Dusty environments. I suspect that what I thought was dust might actually be fungal growth caused by the crazy heat that the 25mm light ring puts out. My lens is only 5 or 6 months old.

@@psi-ops1397 That REALLY sucks. Do any of your other lenses have problems with fungal growth? I live in a humid environment so I have to keep all of my lenses in humidity control boxes. You can get the fungus cleaned - I wonder if that might be worth it in your situation.

@@thephotographytoolkit nope, this lens was purchased this year. It's in a stable environment, and in this short a period of time, there shouldn't be any possible way for that to happen. Even at F11 it's really bad. Pretty sure that it's dust.

@@psi-ops1397 I totally agree with you. It is completely unacceptable.

Thanks so much! glad it was useful.

I'm glad it was useful. I really enjoyed actually doing the experiment myself and seeing the results.

Thanks so much!

I love the idea of a "FrankenNikon"! The F2 is definitely a better camera and easier to use. And I agree that they are both great for what they are and fun to use.

Thanks for the question. Yes - it can be used with all three teleconverters.

@ This lens seems to be very versatile and on a DX D500 it might be impressive. But having both D500 and D6 I can clearly see the difference in AF performance, the D6 being so much faster so I’m wondering about the keeping rate with the D500 on fast moving birds for instance

Great question. I would just set my camera to timer (usually around 10 seconds), light the steel wool while standing at the camera and press the shutter release and then I have 10 seconds to get into position. I have also had a friend press the shutter release for me if it is difficult to get in front of the camera before the timer goes off. I hope that helps.

@@thephotographytoolkit Thank you. It's a bit unclear on what allows the shutter to remain open long enough to capture the footage if someone isn't manually pressing and releasing the shutter or if the shutter isn't being triggered remotely.

@@dearproductions2044 Happy to help. Thanks for the question.

Happy to help. To be honest, I had problems when I went out with the adapter and my Hasselblad xpan lens and I thought if I struggled with it, someone else might also struggle with it.

Thanks so much for the comment. I am glad the video was useful. Btw, the F100 is a fantastic camera. I have one and love it. The only issue it had was sometimes the rubber would get sticky with age but you can't really go wrong with it. The F6 is on another level but at a price.

You use 2 CRV2 3 Volt batteries. See here: www.hasselblad.com/about/history/xpan/#:~:text=Weighing%20in%20at%20only%20950,on%20two%20CRV2%203V%20batteries.

Thank you very much :-)

@@bublebuble2004 Happy to help!

Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the comment!

Thanks so much! It is definitely my favourite!

Thanks so much! I'm glad it was useful. Thanks for subscribing!

Yes, a crop sensor does affect the effective aperture when viewed in terms of equivalent exposure and depth of field, but it does not change the physical aperture of the lens. To understand this better, let’s delve into the mechanics and implications of crop sensors and how they relate to aperture. 1. What is a Crop Sensor? A crop sensor refers to a digital camera sensor that is smaller than a full-frame sensor (which is based on the size of 35mm film, measuring approximately 36mm x 24mm). Common crop sensor formats include APS-C (with a crop factor of about 1.5x or 1.6x) and Micro Four Thirds (with a crop factor of 2x). The crop factor indicates how much smaller the sensor is compared to a full-frame sensor. 2. Aperture and Exposure The physical aperture of a lens is defined by its f-stop, such as f/2.8, f/4, etc., and is determined by the ratio of the lens's focal length to the diameter of its entrance pupil. This value remains the same regardless of the sensor size, meaning that if a lens is set to f/2.8, it remains at f/2.8 regardless of whether it’s mounted on a full-frame or a crop sensor camera. Exposure is determined by the actual amount of light hitting the sensor, and this is unchanged by the sensor size. Therefore, a lens set at f/2.8 on a crop sensor camera will gather the same amount of light per unit area as it would on a full-frame camera. 3. The Effective Aperture and Depth of Field While the physical aperture remains constant, the perceived or effective aperture does change when considering the following: Depth of Field (DoF): Crop sensors produce a deeper depth of field compared to a full-frame sensor when using the same focal length and aperture. This is because the smaller sensor crops the image, effectively increasing the focal length's field of view equivalence. For example, if you use a 50mm lens at f/2.8 on an APS-C camera (with a 1.5x crop factor), it has an equivalent field of view of a 75mm lens on a full-frame sensor. To match the depth of field characteristics of a 75mm lens on full-frame at f/2.8, you would need a wider aperture on the crop sensor. Full-Frame Equivalence: To express the effect of aperture on crop sensors in full-frame terms, the aperture must be multiplied by the crop factor. For instance, an f/2.8 aperture on an APS-C camera with a 1.5x crop factor gives an equivalent depth of field similar to f/4.2 on a full-frame camera. However, the exposure remains the same because the aperture itself hasn’t changed; this equivalence is purely for understanding the depth of field and field of view changes. 4. Implications in Practice Light Gathering: The total amount of light captured (per unit area) does not change. A crop sensor at f/2.8 collects light in the same way a full-frame sensor at f/2.8 does in terms of exposure. Depth of Field and Bokeh: The depth of field is affected by the crop factor, so photographers often need to compensate by adjusting the distance to the subject or selecting different aperture settings to achieve a desired effect.

that makes more sense to me

@@StagnantMizu I am glad you can make sense of it.

That is how I feel about my F2s. Such a step up having metering - I really love it.

Thanks so much Nathan!

I definitely don't know what everyone thinks! 🤣

Thanks for the question Sam. Are you looking into getting the same equivalent focal length lens (for example a FF 35mm f2.8 vs a APSC ~50mm f2.8) or the same focal length lens (for example a FF 35mm f2.8 vs a 35mm f2.8)? I did some tests with an APSC 35mm f1.8 lens on an APSC sensor camera and compared it to a FF 50mm F1.8 lens on a FF camera. The FF 50mm lens had shallower depth of field. You won't get the same depth of field. I hope that helps.

@ Thanks for getting back to me! I’m looking to get the same focal length rather than the equivalent focal length. In other words I’d like to know if a 50mm 2.8 full frame lens will provide the same boca on an APSC camera as a 50mm 2.8 lens designed for APSC. (I’m looking for a reasonably fast telephoto lens but there are virtually no APSC options lol)

Thanks so much!

Thanks for the comment. The great thing about the D lenses is that they can be used with newer cameras. The E-type lenses are the ones that lack backward compatibility. There are some great older D type lenses that I like that I can use with my newer cameras like the 200mm micro or the 16mm fisheye that haven't been updated to newer lenses yet.

You are correct that the 14-24mm lens does have some focus breathing. I would wouldn't characterize it as "heavy" though.

That would be cool. I have that lens but the filter size is 77mm. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the comment. What error margin are you referring to? I am happy to address any specific errors that you think I have made. What do you think I was doing that you were not? What lens were you using? I have been able to repeat the experiment with the same results more than once.

Thanks so much! I absolutely love it.

Yes - you are correct. You can just capture digital photos with the camera and it is not necessary to print them. It should be noted that the camera is only 4.9 megapixels so the images from the camera are not ones that you can enlarge to big sizes.

Thanks for the comment. The distance to sensor (as indicated by a circle with a line on the camera) was exactly the same.

​​@@thephotographytoolkitthe back focus distance is one thing but I suspect what you are seeing here is a difference in the focus point and focus distance leading to a different FOV and in-focus region. Not to mention the AF quality is not going to be exactly the same. I wouldn't worry about this. It's just irrational to think that the same lens will give the same result when shot with a FX and a DC camera. The FOV might be the same giving the same effective FL but there just has to be SOME difference between the two images. For the simple reason that they are two different cameras. Even two different copies of the same lens are not going to perform exactly the same...this is well known. But I would think that a focus distance of a few feet shot with a FX and DC lens, macro lens or not, there are definite concerns about whether the two images were shot exactly the same way otherwise which obviously will require some concern with f# DOF and focus distance not to mention PP and you can never conclusively prove that what you say is true without someone else doing the same thing independent of you. Like saying there is a God because you talked to Him. Even if you had a video of him. Probably not God. But it's still good to see people challenge the status quo. In this case I would definitely mark off the focus point used (it probably is in the exit data and registered in the back panel display if that is enabled...focus point, focus sensor used and the F#. It's clear that there was a difference here, not just from "changing the lens". Though obviously changing from an 18mm to a 28mm lens at short distances will definitely shorten the DOF at the same f# and focus-distance. It would probably be more illuminative to record a video while sweeping focus and F#. You definitely will see how sensitive DOF is to focus distance.

@@touristguy87 Thanks for sharing.

@@thephotographytoolkit and thank you. Nothing challenges an old wives tale like a good experiment that proves otherwise, and bad bokeh is never a good thing. Overall a good video though obviously I think that you could have gone into more detail about the differences between the two images and the causes and that would have made this a great video. Might have gone over some heads and made it much longer, but then you get more content 😁

Happy to help!

🤣 IKR?!

Thanks for the comment. These images are straight out of the camera. No post processing needed.

.... silence.... done! 🤣

Thanks for the comment. Can you tell me more about the entry pupil? Please share some resources if you can. Thanks. Regardless, the point of my video is that you can't just multiply the focal length of a full frame lens when you put it on a APSC camera and you will get the same image as you would on a full frame sensor. A 14mm FF lens on an APSC camera will look different than a 21mm lens on a FF camera.

You won't regret it! The cost is really coming down with many people purchasing Z lenses.

😊 I think one of the coolest things about the OnePlus 12's XPan mode is how the picture starts as a negative and then 'develops' into an image. I have to say that I really love the 65:24 aspect ratio. Thanks for the comment.

These were captured in Singapore.

I love the flexibility of the 200-400. I have recently upgraded to an 180-400mm f4 which is absolutely fantastic.

Thank so much for the comment. The first big difference is that the 105mm Micro Nikkor with a 2x teleconverter would get you 2x magnification and the Laowa lowest magnification is 2.5X so you are getting much closer with the Laowa. Before I got the Laowa, I used older manual focus 24mm and 28mm Nikkor lenses mounted backwards using a BR2A (www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37171-REG/Nikon_2657_BR_2A_Lens_Reversing_Ring.html). I have also added extension tubes to get more magnification.The great thing about the Laowa is that I can adjust the magnification really easily by extending the lens which I really like. I bought my Laowa lens second hand which saved me a bunch of money. Otherwise, you could look into getting an older 20mm, 24mm or 28mm manual lens and a reversing ring to get you beyond 2x magnification. I haven't tried handheld stacks but that is definitely something I will be trying out.

@@thephotographytoolkit Thank you for the feedback! Let me know you end up making out with the stacks.

@@AlexanderSogliero I'll definitely let you know when I make one.

I am glad that it was helpful!