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I would think it’d work for the 2.5 liter 2012 Outbacks, that’s what mine is. I haven’t tried it on other engines, only this one. It’s a very common arrangement though, yours should be very similar.

Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful! I had fun making the music too. 🎶

You’re quite welcome, I’m glad it helped!

You’re welcome: it was a fun video to make, I’m glad it helped!

You’re welcome, and thank you for watching!

Hey there. I’m really sorry to hear you had so much trouble. Me, I do not live in the Rust Belt at this time, although I did live in St. Louis for a while, so I understand the difficulties that can come with corrosion due to road salt. I hope you are able to get your car back on the road soon, and that this repair is a one-time thing for you. Good luck!

@@markbeebe4388 Thanks for the reply...i did get it done, along with replacing the rear brake pads, the next day....i HAD to get it done because i was leaving for Maui the day after that!

Thank you! Good luck to you, I'm sure you can do this . . . always give it a try; even if you don't succeed, you're bound to learn something along the way!

I think you're correct, thanks!

It's pretty straightforward, just figure out which of the wires goes to the smaller of the two prongs, that's the "hot" lead, and connect that wire to the lead that hits the fuse in the power supply. The other wire is the neutral, connect that to the other current-carrying lead from the transformer. Then you'll take the ground wire (probably green) and find a place on the chassis where it can connect, like a screw or something. And you're done. Watch part 3 of my video series, it's got some good visuals of the power supply module. Good luck!

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Hey there. No problem using a non-polarized capacitor. The polarized ones work great, but the reason they're polarized is because it's cheaper to make them that way. A non-polarized capacitor in place of a polarized one should work just fine. As for the position, again, it's not important. It might take up a little more physical space in one configuration compared to the other, but as long as it's hooked up right, the electrons don't care about the orientation of the leads. Good luck!

@@markbeebe4388 Thanks for all the advice! I changed out those 4 capacitors and it sounds like it did back in 1971. I do appreciate all you help Mark!!! Merry Christmas!!!

100%. In this instance, I honestly spaced out and only realized I’d skipped the step of loosening the lug nuts after I’d already jacked it up. So I decided simply to show what I do in this situation: chock the wheel with a piece of wood to keep it from rotating. Wish I could say that this was the first time I’d done that. But nope . . . 🤓

I'm a member of a Vintage Synths & Keyboards Repairs group on Facebook. I'll put out a request and see if anyone can give pointers for someone in the NJ vicinity who can work on it. Me, I'm in Houston, so I'm far from ideally located.

A fellow on the FB group offered the following: “Three Waves Music in northern NJ repairs a lot of vintage gear. Perhaps he could talk with them.”

@@markbeebe4388 Three Waves Music didn't sound interested, so I managed to get everything working on my own except for the vibrato switch. Since I'm really new at this I'm wondering where you got your capacitors? I did a search online and what I found looked nothing like the ones you replaced. Are they available at a Home Depot type of place or would it need to be an electronics type of place? Where did you get yours from? Any specifics would be greatly appreciated!

Hi there! I’m really glad you’ve been successful so far, well done indeed! For the capacitors, I’m fortunate that there’s an electronic parts outlet here in Houston, and I get probably 70% of my replacement capacitors there. When they don’t have what I need, I usually order from Mouser.com, which almost always has what I need. For real oddball capacitors, sometimes I get lucky and find something reasonably close to what I need by searching through forums, amplifier repair websites, old radio repair websites, eBay, etc. Don’t worry too much if the new capacitors are smaller than the old ones, or if they look a bit different. That’s typical: contemporary capacitors are usually quite a bit smaller than ones from the 1960’s and 1970’s, especially the electrolytic kind. As long as they have similar capacitance, are rated for the same voltage or higher, and will physically fit into the same space as the old ones, they should work fine. Good luck!!

@@markbeebe4388 I just ordered 4.7uf 50v...which was the closest I could find. Just noticed others being referred to as "polarized", and it looks like what I got may not be polarized...does it matter? They also "stand up" as opposed to what's on the card which lay horizontal. I'm probably stressing too much, but I don't want to screw up my keyboard...Thanks again for your help!

Hi there! Yes, there are screws holding it down. I skipped that part when I made this video a few years ago, my apologies. The screws can be found on the underside of the unit. There should be 3 or maybe 4 of them all in a line, close to the front of the unit but probably 2-3 inches away from the front edge. Remove those screws, and then the keyboard should lift up easily. Good call on not forcing it, thank you for treating these old instruments with good respect!

@@markbeebe4388 Yeah, late last night it hit me that I didn't look at the underside. worked like a charm. Now to try and clean the contacts to get rid of the crunchy sounds when I hit the keys, plus my high C has no volume at all. Also, vibrato switch no longer works. Hopefully I can figure out how to get under that and maybe a cleaning there will get it to work. I will also continue to watch parts 2 and 3 of your excellent video. Thank You for your help as well!!!

Thanks! I'm honestly not sure what it's made of. My guess is that it's probably a steel bar coated with some kind of carbon coating or something. Unfortunately, I don't have the organ anymore so I can't really check it: I returned it to its owner after completing this video. Sorry!

That's a good idea. I suppose the parking brake would have to be released before the brake rotor will come off, but it's a good option if you're like me and have already jacked up the car without loosening the nuts!

Hi there! I would definitely check that capacitor: it's got to be 5 decades old by now, and probably isn't working very well. If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the capacitor (it should be infinite), that's a good first-pass check. Good luck!

Hello Rob! I think you should be able to change the cord out in a pretty straightforward manner. I'd suggest one of two methods. 1) Cut the cord maybe about 6" away from the housing, and splice in a new cord on the end of the old one. This is assuming the cord is ok near the unit, which it probably is (but maybe not). There are plenty of videos out there showing how to splice together lamp or appliance cords, and this would be just the same. This is probably the easiest solution. 2) You could open up the unit and get to the location where the actual conductors are soldered to the power switch. My 3rd video in this repair series has a fairly good picture of that area, right around the 2:15 mark. I think it's the set of white wires that come in and terminate on the back of the switch. This solution would require more effort and some soldering. Good luck!

@Mark Beebe thanks Mark! And thank you for getting back with me quickly. I actually went for your latter solution. I opened it up and tried to do an extensive cleaning while I was in there. I got a 9-foot replacement cord from Amazon, just your basic cord. Desoldered the old one and soldered in the new. It works great!

Hi there! Thanks for the offer . . . but this organ has long since been returned to its owner, and has been in semi-regular use since then with no reported issues. Once I replaced that gold-colored twin capacitor with the two blue ones at the head end, the AC hum was cut way back. My guess is that the amp through which the guy plays it produces more hum than the organ does. I appreciate it!

Hi there! Well, I have a day job and do this sort of thing on the side as what I'd call a "serious hobby." My shop is in my garage in Houston, and generally I'm not taking any more work these days: I'm just too busy with work & family right now. Having said that: for the buttons that are scratchy, a little contact cleaner sprayed into that area should clean things up pretty well, and it won't do any harm. I recommend getting some contact cleaner in the aerosol cans, with the little aiming hose, and spraying just a little bit behind the switches, then exercising the switches back-and-forth several times. It should clear up the scratchiness for a bit. Good luck!

@@markbeebe4388 Thank you so much for the reply Mark! One more question if I may. I'm having trouble finding a schematic. Where should I look? I'm going to have to replace those four oscillator caps.

@@scalefingerz My best recommendation would be to check the links I have in the Description section of my video. I believe the website under the first link has a lot of info about the Jaguar and other Vox organs.

@@markbeebe4388 Thank you Mark!!!!!!!!!

Set brake Jack car Remove wheel Remove axle nut Release brake How I did it tonight, but that hub sure as hell is not coming out as easy as that one. Left it for the night with wd40

Excellent! I'm glad you're working to resurrect one of these beauties. If the pedals all make the same sound, that tells me that the trigger portion of the circuit is working, but it's not sensing any of the differences in resistance from each pedal. I'm going to guess there's an open circuit somewhere along the resistor ladder, or maybe IC103 which interprets the resistances might be faulty. Good luck!!

Sorry, I haven't done the front wheels, so I can't say. I believe it's different, with all the steering apparatus involved.

You're correct: I'm in Houston, no salt on the roads here. Just high humidity and plenty of rain.

In the description field, there are some links to literature that should point you in the right direction. The capacitors are just plain, regular-old electrolytics, some of which I ordered from Mouser, and some of which I picked up at a local electronic parts outlet. The ceramic-metallic (cermet) variable resistors are ones I ordered from Mouser. Again, they are simply passive resistors, and they don't affect the tone of the oscillators, merely help govern the pitch.

Hey there! Glad you enjoyed it. One of the top reasons I was motivated to make this video is that I noticed (and was surprised) that there weren't any decent videos out there showing how to work on one of these machines. As synths go, the Taurus is relatively straightforward, and the service manual that Moog produced did an amazing job getting into the nitty-gritty of how it works, so it was a great stepping stone for me in terms of getting into synth repair. I imagine any reputable electronics repair outfit could do it for you, I wish I could point you in the right direction, but I'm nowhere near NY, so I'd be stabbing in the dark!

Same happened to me. Put the bolts in on the other side, attach a pair of vice grips to the slide hammer, attach the vice grips to the flange on the bolts and start pulling and going around to each of the four bolts evenly. (Make sure the bolts go in enough to catch all the threads of the hub)

@@built4u2 ya it didnt come out couldnt get in there but i will make a tool where it will come out not matter what from one side. any ways your right thats one of the main ways in getting it out for sure.