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Howdy, a bit off topic, but could you give a little insight into the harbor freight bandsaw since the upgrades? Specifically I’m curious about resawing thicker stock/logs And generally wondering about overall thoughts on it. I’m considering getting one new vs. waiting for something else to show up on FB marketplace. I watched both of your previous videos on it and didn’t see anything else referencing it. Sorry if I missed it. Thanks.

More in depth view on the lift please

I was thinking of doing this but using Danish/tung oil .

I started out my shop with a Skilsaw and a chop/miter saw, both of which will get the job done, but are by no means the best for great cutting unless you're building a house or a woodshed. Radial arm saws just weren't on my radar as you don't see them in stores anymore and I hadn't personally seen one since I was a teen back in the '80's. So naturally when I eventually wanted better cuts for finer work I went with a table saw, specifically a Rockwell Model 9 contractor saw as the vintage unisaw that I dreamed of always seemed to be a several hundred mile round trip, or if they were closer, the folks wanted an arm and a leg for. In the interim I eventually got a jigsaw, a scroll saw, a sawzall, a chainsaw and a 14" Delta bandsaw. Then one day a while back while perusing fb marketplace I happened upon a listing for a radial arm saw, and remembering dawned upon me of the one my buddy's dad had and all the uses they got out of it and I started studying up on them. And, as with any power tool, yeah, they can be dangerous, but no more so than any other tool in my shop and I decided on a mid 50's DeWalt MBF model I found on marketplace for $35 bucks. It was pretty rusty but sat on its original optional cabinet so naturally I rushed out and bought it from the guy. And after a lot of wire wheeling, sanding primer and paint it looked good as new. Made a new table for it from an old kimball desktop of laminated 1.5" MDF. Had to square up the blade, the fence, table, etc which took a couple of days. The bearings were good as it doesn't spin forever when ya turn it off, but the power cord was rotted to the point the outer cover was split wide open for a couple of feet and the insulated wires inside had insulation falling off and it's a wonder I didn't trip a breaker powering it on. I bought new 14-3 SJOOW power cord for it that looked identical to what the original cord would have when it was new, added a rubber booted strain relief and got a new toggle switch for it as the old one had a crack in the bakelite that busted wide open when I removed it. I've come to love using it and my old table saw now mostly collects dust and is more table than saw with assorted debris sitting on it. The RAS is just my "go-to" saw for about any cut I make nowadays. Wish I had bought one a long time ago now.

I would have tapped it out on the floor. But yeah, that fan housing looks fragile.

Great little idea.

We need more people like you. I just followed you. Keep doing what you do. Respect.

Very Nice! quick easy and well explained! Plus love the Biden/Harris sign in the background!

Just bought it used…. Wanted something powerful within my reach. The machining quality of this thing is dangerously abysmal. If you are thinking of getting one, I strongly suggest that you enhance the rigidity of the base. MORE IMPORTANTLY: the man I bought the saw from was on the verge of a big accident, as the two v-straps were almost completely ripped apart. Get rid of those, put something decent instead, AND ESPECIALLY: buff the all stages of the gears. You won’t believe how cutting are the edges!

Man thanks for the video everything I needed to know, if I do purchase this is in the future ill be sure to hit your affiliate link as a thanks! I thought a riser block would be easy to find but apparently not and couldnt find much *solid* info online and in forums.. btw i just picked this up for 260 new as it is on clearance and they have a 40% off coupon for all clearance items rn... and if anyone knows a buddy or shop or has a metal lathe(I dont) im sure you could just turn the bar stock down..

Bought that 123 blocks, and I've never used it lol.

Well, hindsight is 20/20 as they say. When you said to your dog that you were short, I wondered, "Why doesn't he set it on something lower...like the floor?" I saw on Amazon those little hydraulic garage presses can be had for $60 for a 6 ton model which in all honesty is about as much force as I'd ever need. I know I'll get one before attempting a bearing change on my MBF.

Thanks for the informative video! You're one of the few people talking about organizing corded drills, so this definitely inspired me for my own tiny workshop! 😄

can it cut through white acrylic?

I have this bandsaw still in the box, I hope I can sell it for $270 or so, I bought a used Grizzly, the same saw painted green that had the table extension 1 HP motor, and nice rip fence. I messed around with it for weeks trying to get it to slice some soft 2 X 6 lumber. None of these similar bandsaws cut more than 2 inch thick wood at all. Period. I gave up and sold my Grizzly. If that's what you're trying to do, stop, stop, turn around and go back. Either get some more categorically serious equipment or give up.

Best thumbnail yet

Can you provide a link or info on where you purchased the bearings? I have the same aw in need of the same bearings!

Great commentary. Thank you.

Interesting. I, too, considered a drill press lift, but my thought was to use a weighted lever.

Thanks for the stop block idea using clamps to fix them to the fence. My fence rotates around an upright bolt at one end while a similar clamp keeps it rock solid at the other end; the clamp side of the table is curved so the fence end is always at the same distance from the edge of the table for the clamp to get a solid grip. But I never thought of using those clamps to fix stop blocks, meanwhile thinking up all sorts of complex ways of adding stop blocks to the fence... which I now don't need to do 👍 KISS: "Keep It Simple, Stupid."

Would like to see more about the DP lift

I have the same block plane you do. It has the half moon shaped W. BUTCHER stamped on the iron. Amazing how old, I had no idea. Can you tell me how you put it back together... da on my part. I should have paid more attention. I'm assuming the frog goes down so the screw fits in the recess. I also noticed the stamp faces "up." Where should the chip breaker meet the blade iron? Do you let the blade rest on your bench then give the wedge a tap to set everything in place? What angle do you think you have on your plane. I sharpened mine back to the "original." It may have been changed a dozen time over the years, but when I got mine it was ground to about 22 degrees. I put an 8 degree secondary bevel on it and it cuts fine, I'm just not sure I'm set up correctly. Enough already. Any information you could pass on would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Cheers to cool old planes... really old planes.

I have 2 and I love them both

Hey just a quick PSA about nail guns. It seemed at 1:38, you fired the nail gun in an orientation that could have easily resulted in a nail in your finger. You then changed the nail gun to a safer orientation. You did it again at 1:46. A nail will tend to deviate left and right and not up and down due to the shape of the nail. You'll want to keep your fingers clear.

Y’all are killing me! 😂

Also nice :) I have an old 14" Delta (28-276) I plan on putting a riser kit on soon. I think the Jet riser kit will fit mine without any modifications to it. As for now I'll just keep using my old cool block guides though. My tires are still in really good condition so I won't have to change those either and be able to save a couple of bucks. I'm fortunate in that my old saw has a quick release tensioner on it.

Nice build. Only change I'd make would be that bolt on the front. I'd see if I couldn't swap that out for a caliper clamp bolt/plate for pushing in a car's brake caliper pump when changing disc brake pads. The plates on the threads and end would offer a bit more stability I think than just the rounded carriage head bolt by itself would. That Brinly-Hardy flyer was a nice touch. I used to work there, LOL!

wow I just googled "when was tablesaw invented" and I get this masterpiece of a video

I've read purpleheart can possibly be toxic. Have you heard this or ever had any problems with Purpleheart

If you incorporate the dust collection in the rear fence it should work better

This is going to be a build for this week, thanks!

Do u have any information on a drill press that you use a half inch drill in i need dimensions for the bail that holds the drill picture of and dimensions at all bends

Seems much safer for crosscutting than a table saw, hand saw, or band saw. And does not really seem more dangerous for ripping, use a push stick.

Wow this is cool... I'm jealous!!

Thank You. I’m am a serious hobby woodworker, with all my fingers. I now have my father’s RAS he purchased new in 1968 (I was 12) it was the first large power tool I used. I consider it to be an essential tool in my shop, making cuts that are near impossible with a table saw, or other tools. My sliding compound miter saw is used only for portable applications, usually just collecting dust. In a few years I’ll teach our grandkids how to do woodworking

I'm a little late to the party, but thanks for the shout-out!

Nothing says, "I'm just a moron" like a Biden Harris poster.

Thanks for this video. It's interesting to me to see some other RUclipsrs talk about radial arm saws as if they're strange antiques. (Maybe this is because I'm something of a strange antique myself.) I have two Sears Craftsman 10" Radial Arm saws--one I've had for about 40 years and one I picked up for $25 to keep in the basement of a rental property I own. I've never owned a table saw, though I recently inherited an old Shopsmith Mark V that I often use for the table saw function. I've use my radial arm saw mostly for crosscutting, miters, compound miters, but also for ripping. (I recently rebuilt the cedar lath fence in my front yard that required me to rip dozens of 1"x8"x8' boards to 1-1/4 slats.) I've used the planing attachment to rough plane a very uneven 4" slab of walnut that I used for a live-edge shelf for a television. I have a dado blade for it that I've used--one of those that wobbles to various widths that you set. Before I had a drill press, I used the radial arm saw as a drill a few times and I have a sanding disk and several sanding drums that I've used, too. I've also used it for molding edges with molding attachment. I don't understand the reputation that radial arm saws have gotten for not being safe. Of course, any saw is inherently dangerous but, in all the years I've used the saw, I've only once had anything I'd consider a mishap. While ripping, the saw threw a loose knot that I hadn't noticed back hard enough to break off a little bit of the saw blade guard. Without the guard set close to the board, as you're supposed to, it could have hit me if I'd been directly behind the blade. But I usually stand a bit to the side. For crosscuts, the blade is pushing the board back against the fence and I've never had a problem with the blade wanting to climb the board. This is probably because I keep a firm grip on the saw. (I've also sometimes done a cross cut from the front, pushing back against the wood.) I've seen Stumpy Nubs' original video that rightly calls out some of the initial hype about what radial arm saws can do (ruclips.net/video/AHRwN99fGCY/видео.html). (One of the manuals shows guy in a dress shirt and tie cutting full sheet of plywood in half by having the saw blade turned outward and pushing the plywood in front of the saw. Sheeze!) I've also see the rebuttal videos by radial arm saw fans and Stumpy Nubs' clarification in which he makes it clear that he's not saying that radial arm saws can't be safe; he's just criticizing some of the unsafe uses of them (ruclips.net/video/TKL2ooTOPk8/видео.html). If you want to learn more about radial arm saws from an old pro, check out videos by BigMike Tuna like this one (ruclips.net/video/CV4uXtxnOdg/видео.html) . (His saw is almost identical to mine, by the way.) If you want to see some terrific joinery done with a radial arm saw, check out videos by @dustylumberco. And here's an idea for an upgraded table for a radial arm saw: ruclips.net/video/bdLaLgGCqUo/видео.html. There's an interesting historical promotional film from DeWalt about the use of the DeWalt radial arm saw's use in the WWII war program here: ruclips.net/video/HiGH0Qsu3ak/видео.html.

I lol’d so hard when you showed the RIP mousie.

Good review, thank you

nice history, thanks and good luck

Absolutely every mod I’m looking to make on mine I just picked up today thanks for the video!

Thank you for watching! I really have a great time creating these videos. There is so much fascinating history surrounding these tools. Which tool would you like to see a history of next?

Thank you sir for mentioning the Shopsmith. The Power Pro motor/headstock separates it from the “classic” headstock and from other saws as well. I’ve made tables, bowls, lamps, box jointed boxes, bandsaw boxes - all from wood I’ve cut, using my Alaska chainsaw mill made the slabs, cut to width on the SSmith bandsaw, jointed, planed all with the Shopsmith and Shopsmith accessories. As a Shopsmith owner/enthusiast I do enjoy your channel. Thank you again. (I’m 5’8” - it’d be nice if the tablesaw were lower but then, the lathe would be way low!) Good on yuh mate!

Ever cut foam with your band saw? Does the foam debris accumulate or gum up the works in the lower wheel chamber?

I have three, the same DeWalt and same Craftsman (that was my Dad's) , and a Ridgid (which is actually very good as well)! Ok, fine.....I have four as I am refurbishing a DeWalt 925 lol. Thanks so much for doing this and excellent job on this history of this saw, and dispelling lots of misinformation about them. I have a lot of the same tools as you in my shop and love to refub old saws.

where do you get your lumber from? been looking around for purple wood but hard to find nice thick pieces like that one

What I do with my jointer is, mount a piece of oak and use shims to give me a perfect 90.

Good job, I really like your videos. So much good history of tools. I have two Radial arm saws, one is dedicated to cross cutting and ripping and the other is for doing dadoes.

I have two radial arm saw that I use more than any other saw in my shop. I have a cross cut blade on one saw that I also use for ripping. Whenever I rip anything on the radial arm saw, I always use very long push sticks. The other radial arm saw I keep a dado blade on it for cross cut and ripping dados. I feel that as long as you are all awake and very safe, and take every precaution with push sticks and sometimes clamps, these tools are very safe.